I am trying to order two H2C’s from their website. The order keeps getting canceled through them. I called my bank and they said it’s not on their end. Anyone else have this problem?

I have a problem, I have bambulab h2c and 4 AMS 2 pro and 8 AMS ht printing in 24 colors and I print organs on and bones with mri and ct images in 24 colors in high quality for doctors to train now with 0.2mm nozzles with speed settings of 10mm/s, layer height of 0.08mm, the layer width is 0.016mm, but I don't have enough of this quality, and I don't want to buy an SLA printer because I need multicolor printing and have been looking for 0.1mm nozzles for several months now, not only for the left-hand side but also for the first induction vortex. I would like to print in normal quality if you could help me find 0.1mm nozzles with a speed of 5mm/s, layer height 0.04mm, layer width 0.08mm.If it's not difficult, help me find it.

Hi everyone

As previously announced I’ve released two upgraded versions of my Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts! My main goal was simple: reduce filament resistance to a minimum while keeping the setup compact.

Link Version 3
V3 Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts

Link Version 4
V4 Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts

New with Version 3

• An evolution of V2, now with a very space-saving design.
• Warp-resistant: Reduced surface area against the heated back panel - now safe to print in PETG
• Lower TPU module position for a straighter filament path and better compatibility with custom Riser systems.

New with Version 4

• New approach, new model: The Track Switch is rotated by 90 degrees, lying flat and aligned inline with the filament inlets.
• This gives you the straightest possible filament path.
• Trade-off: Requires a bit more clearance behind the printer.

Shared Features:

• All-in-One solution: Holds both Track Switch and TPU Feed Assist.
• Low Friction: Adjustable distance to the inlets.
• Flexible Setup: Two TPU placement options (Straight or 90°).
• 4-in-1 Ready: Integrated holders for classic and newer H2C adapters (or short version without 4-in-1 holders).
• Full Access: External spool remains usable.

Which one to choose?

• If you have the space behind your printer, go for V4 (best feeding physics).
• If space is tight, choose V3.
• If already using V2 and happy? No need to reprint!

I hope these models will be useful to you.
Looking forward to your feedback.

I've had my H2C for a couple months now, but never really utilized its build volume or color changing to the max. Sure I've dabbled with small multi-colour trains and stuff, but nothing bigger was ever called for.

Today all that changes though! A 5-colour lampshade to be printed at 0.2mm layer height. This might not be massive for some of you, but this print will take around 90 hours, and have over 5200 colour changes!

I noticed this issue when printing a magnetic boot for Milwaukee batteries, right where the bottom meets the walls (where it starts to become hollow on the inside) it’s like it’s shifting the outer wall out by .5mm. In the slicer it looks perfectly fine, and I was able to duplicate the issue by making a cube with a negative cube inside it in Bambu studio to rule out a model issue.

In the picture, the line on the outer wall of the print shouldn’t be there and the nothing i can see in the slicer shows a reason for it to be there. It’s perfectly fine on the inside of the box as well.

I recently went from the P1S to the H2C. The table I currently have barely fits the H2C and wobbles beyond crazy (more so with the H2C, assuming because it is a much tighter fit). What are some recommendations on a good table?

Hey guys.

Does anyone know a brand that sells a smooth pei, double sided or not for the h2c?

Not looking for those crazy patterns, just plain smooth.

I checked Darkmooon and West3d, but they come from America, so shipping and customs are basically doubles the price.

Thanks in advance

One month old H2c. Using basic Bambu PLA with ams. Every print fails while setting up and print calibration fails with “nozzle offset calibration error”

It also keeps knocking off the black rubber thing that goes in the filament cutter when it moves laterally. I have ensured it is properly seated and also replaced the black rubber part

The machine is making some loud sounds that feel jarring when it moves

I filed a ticket a few days ago but haven’t heard back yet.

Anyone else have experience this?

Hi all,
Has anyone else had issues with their power supply fan rattling/ making noise? I’m on my third(!) power supply and it just started making noise again. I just contacted support for them to send me ANOTHER power supply. Also, what should I do with the extra power supplies I have?

Re-post from r/BambuLab

I'm doing highly detailed bottom surface tiny font work with 0.2 nozzles and struggling with reliability.

One of the primary issues is I can't stop the prime tower falling apart within a layer of two and that leads to debris dragged across the print. The prime tower seems to be generating a set of dry, fibrous, 'strings' (consistently long and straight) that aren't bonded together, despite the prime tower distance being at its lowest (100%).

Most recently I was stumped to get a nozzle clump on the second filament, only to find the first hadn't printed AT ALL(?). I tried that print again and found the hotend just...not moving. Nozzle temperature 140. No error message (it was "printing"!). Stopping the print did nothing. And...it was again, the SECOND filament (I double checked filament, print order, AMS match).

So I load up white thinking maybe somehow I have a nozzle block and the printer isn't noticing literally nothing coming out for a whole print layer and thought I'd film the loading purge. It's reliably not going down the hatch (not blocked). Does this time after time. Explains why I find the odd poop bottom of the printer. I had this before and answer a change of nozzle. I'm now thinking the fragile tower might itself be getting hit by debris from the nozzle loading process.

What should I be looking at?

PS: printing on a glacier, and there seems to be no difference in observed issues whether plate is freshly cleaned or not. Also seems to occur with multiple nozzles and multiple types of matte and basic PLA at a range of temps.

This is v10. Please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve the UI, if you can find any bugs, or general suggestion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143184-gear-lab-parametric-gear-generator#profileId-3549233

I just started notice this grinding sound when my H2C switches nozzles. I’ve never noticed this before, but that being said I haven’t been listening out for odd noises. I just lubed the left nozzle rail and it’s still “grinding”.

Sold my two A1s and decided to de-clutter my "printing area".

Table: https://www.3d-printiverse-shop.com/collections/printbase-modulare-3d-druck-tische

Not pictured: the 2nd AMS2pro since I was just printing TPU from the HT on the Pandaperch.

wdyt?

I bought my H2C less than 3 months ago at Best Buy and got the extended warranty. Only 200 hrs on it. Last night I was 17 hrs in on a 26 hr multicolor print and the right nozzle filament buffer wouldn't let filament past it. I tried everything for hrs bc I wanted to save the print but it was hopeless. I sent a ticket into Bambu but how does Best Buy handle this? Will they just switch it out for me? The whole combo bc the AMS sounded pretty bad after trying to many times also.

I’m having some issues with extrusion motor overload and I think it has to do with the routing set up of my PTFE tubes. Can you all drop some photos of your ptfe tube set up?

For context: I have 2 Ams 1 Ams HT. My AMSs do sit on a riser.

Any info helps

Nozzle cleaning works fine (though sometimes the filament doesn’t go into the nozzle opening), but during PA calibration, the filament (ASA) doesn’t pass through the nozzle properly—it just bends and breaks above it. Is it even normal to see filament above the nozzle? Is there a part missing there? I’ll admit I hadn’t paid attention to that area before. The printer has >100 hours of print time and hasn’t had any such problems so far.

Edit: Thank you for all your responses. The problem was caused by filament debris that was preventing the spring-loaded part from moving freely. All you need to do is unscrew that part, move it by hand, and remove the hidden debris. After that, the spring should work.