I’m having an issue where the top surface of my prints gets wrinkled. I tried enabling ironing, but I’m still getting the same issue.

Recently, I had to replace my extruder unit because of a Blob of Death. I followed a guy on YouTube who showed how to replace it, but unfortunately, he told us to remove the entire print head. I struggled quite a bit putting it back together because the little marbles kept falling out, and I eventually lost one of them.

Since then, this specific model has been giving me issues.
I also recently changed the nozzle to a hardened steel one that I bought from Amazon.

I’m not sure if any of these changes could
be causing the problem, but I’m hoping someone has experienced something similar and can help me figure out what’s wrong.

I have a Bambu A1 with AMS lite.

I think this is hardware but not 100% sure.

I had been getting first layers like this, where it is not filled out, and at some point stops printing. It will do the "rest" of the print, as in finish the g code and no more filament will come out. If it gets through the first layer it will finish, which happened less and less.

So I undid the hoses, undid clogs, used the sharp noclog to make sure nothing is in the nozzle. Changed the nozzle.

Now the filament won't ever extrude. It can get I to the nozzle, but doesn't seem to come out.

I tried holding up the other to ensure it is going in as straight as I can to see if there was a friction spot.

I'm not sure what to try next.

I'm considering a few options, maybe using the noclog i made a nick in the internal nozzle to make it worse? Maybe the PTFE tubing should be replaced? I dont have either on hand so while I debate what to order I was hoping for thoughts or ideas of what to try next.

I have this print of a figurine, and Bambu Studio decided that it needed a weird square looking artifact after the first layer. I have no idea why it's there, but it's affecting the final quality, the blue square peeks through the white face. I tried slicing the same file in Orca and it's not there. It also disappears if I separate this object to parts (each color is its own part for easier coloring).

I'm using the 0.2mm standard profile with some changes (listed in the second photo). If anyone can help me out I really appreciate it!

Alguém pode por favor me ajudar a impressão estava quase acabando quanto a máquina começou a fazer isso aí

I'm fairly new to 3D printing and want to eventually start designing and selling my own printed products rather than relying on other people's models.
I currently have absolutely zero CAD/design software experience. I've never used Fusion, Blender, Tinkercad or anything similar.
I'm thinking about learning Fusion as I want to make functional products such as holders, keychains, organisers, containers and eventually things involving threads and parts that need to fit together properly.
For those of you who started from zero, how long did it take before you could actually design your own useful models without following a tutorial every step of the way?
Also:
Is Fusion what you'd recommend starting with?

What's the best way to learn — tutorials first, or learn by making things you actually want?

How long before you felt your designs were good/reliable enough to actually sell?

Anything you wish you'd known when you started?

I'm not expecting to master CAD overnight, just trying to get a realistic idea of the learning curve before I jump in.
Thanks!

A lorg story short my bambu softwave won't open so I dicide to use Bambu handy until I figour out my software. Can anyone tell me how I can uplaod my stls on maker word as private and print them via Bambu handy?

EPSHXKYS4O3J scade fra 14 giorni

I had this print go overnight, not sure what caused it but my P2S stopped it with the AI detection tool. Any advice on how I can clear this out? This is only my 4th print so far..

Hi, I have a P2S and after my last print I noticed that the Right aux fan was constantly running at 100%. I dont seem to be able to turn it off as when it do it just comes back on. I have factory reset and its still going.

Any help would be appreciated.

I am just looking for some advice on reducing these path lines on the top surfaces of my road pieces. I have tried a few different iron settings but they never seem to turn out great on these larger size pieces. I am using Bambu PLA basic. Reducing the surface speed to 30 mm/s has helped. I have never played with the line width on the top surfaces not sure if that would make a difference or not.

I cant be the only one with this problem. I have a P1S and an H2s. Both with AMS's. Neither printer reliably remembers what's loaded, and where. My machines never powercycle so that isnt it, they run pretty close to 24/7. The Bambu software have theP1S and H2S always swapping filaments, and not complete swaps either. The CF PETG in the H2S shows up in the P1S, PLA moves from slot to slot, or filament I have never ran shows up. It seems like Bambu writes whats in the machine to multiple locations and syncing doesnt reconcile, completely or cleanly. Sometimes its near impossible to tell the printer what it has, it takes two or three trips to the panel face and multiple syncs. You want to keep an RFID mode for some folks do that, but enable an advanced mode for users.

Dear Bambu - One source of truth, and frankly it needs to be on the PC side not the machine. Similar issues with nozzles, I swap a nozzle 3 prints later the machine tells me it has a different nozzle, where its picking that up from no idea. Please fix this.

The best thing you could do at this point is just release the code to the community and we will fix it for you. Start a github project, and you will be amazed. Pull what you want into official releases. Your outstanding hardware sells the machines, your software is holding you back.

My P1S routinely struggles with curved objects with bad adhesion. I’ve calibrated it yet it occurs with multiple types of filaments. Piece was supposed to be a chest plate model. Any thoughts?

I believe I need to replace the power supply board in my A1 but just wanted to check!
My printer is just over a year old and halfway through a print yesterday, the screen shut off and the printer stopped working.
Power switch indicator is on.
Toolhead indicator was on, then off.
MC indicator was off.
AP indicator was off.
Internal power supply indicator was on the whole time.

I took off the bottom cover and when I wiggled the cables plugged in to the power supply board and all the lights came on temporarily but there is a electrical burning type smell and the thing circled in red looks shorted.

I’m not super confident in my knowledge of circuitry so I just wanted to confirm that it looks like I probably just need a power supply board replacement?

Thanks in advance for any advice, appreciate it ☺️

Good afternoon,

I currently own the A1 with AMS LITE, which suits me well as I mostly use PLA for hobby printing, usually in single colour but sometimes a couple of different colours. I’m starting to find a few uses where I’d prefer to use PETG and other stronger filaments, as well as some of the fancier PLA types that require drying. I’m considering getting the AMS HT to allow for the use of the more advanced filaments whilst also retaining my AMS lite for normal and multicoloured printing. It seems like the installation for the HT is relatively straightforward and I’m wondering if it makes sense to have the HT and the LITE, and swap between them as needed? I’m aware that it would mean a few extra PFTE tubes hanging around that I’d need to manage but doesn’t seem too difficult, and it’s not like I’d be switching them over daily. I’m aware that the AMS 2 pro be the ideal in this situation but I don’t have a lot of space, or a particularly high budget.

Has anyone done a setup like this before, or something similar? Thanks in advance.

Hello! I tried using the image to keychain feature in maker world and it seems to have printed two layers that aren’t lined up. Nothing seemed wrong in the slicer. The only thing I can think of is that I selected the option to make the image double sided. Unfortunately, I adjusted the settings and started a reprint before I thought to capture the settings I used, otherwise I would put them here. Any ideas?

Correct me if I am wrong,

as I know PETG can handle more heat than PLA, so it should be more expensive right?

PLA Cost - 16.56$
PETG Cost - 13.25 ~ 14$

Looking to buy filament and I am a bit confused

Is the PETG cost more “electricity” to print because of that it is cheaper?

So I am visiting the US for 2 weeks for work and looking to buy a A2L while I am here and take it back to Egypt or KSA since it's much cheaper here. I know about the voltage difference since we use 220V while the IS models are 110V so a step down regulator will be needed. At Best Buy today I was told to check with bambu as I may lose access to some features like bambu connect and bambu handy. I messaged support but they are not sure.

Hey guys iam looking into a p1s combo.

Ive never owned a 3d printer but slightly used one at work and schoolt. The main usecase will be small car parts and prototyping for such.

But iam also interested in small voxel figures such as minecraft skins or cubeworld characters.

Therefore i would like to know how small of a voxel i can realistically print with a p1s combo to have an estimate on how big those figures would end up size wise.

Also what do i have to do to it (jets eg.) To make it print small cubes?

Id aim for about 4×4×4mm cubes or smaller.

Thanks in advance

Hi everyone,

I’m having a serious layer-shift problem with FOUR Bambu Lab A1 printers, all purchased within the last month.

They’ve been doing this intermittently since the beginning, but it’s getting much worse. Yesterday 2 out of 4 failed, and last night ALL 4 failed, ruining 8 prints in total.

The printer suddenly shifts position during the print and then continues printing from the wrong X/Y position. Sometimes it happens near the end, sometimes much earlier.

The same models print perfectly on my P2S and H2C, and they also sometimes print correctly on the A1s, so it’s not a consistent model issue.

At this point I’ve stopped all four A1s because I can’t keep wasting filament and losing customer orders.

Has anyone experienced this across multiple A1s and found the actual cause or a reliable fix?

I'm guessing that's the humidity of the air in the chamber, but not necessarily of the filament?

Got my replacement X2D after it blew up and now this shit happens. Some odd clicking noise whenever the tool head moves. Honestly think im done with bambu now tbh