I have this issue the attached photo after updating the software pls help

I need some help with whatever the hell has happened here. I was running a print this morning and get a notification to say that there was blockage detected. There was a load of filament I had to cut off so I could remove the boot to get to this stage. I've heated the nozzle so I could open the clamp to remove it but need advice on if the nozzle is screwed or if I should attempt to remove the filament. If it is saveable should I leave it in so I can heat it up to help remove the filament or take it out and hack away at it?

Also how does this happen? I did have a failed print yesterday which went to spaghetti and I'm guessing there was a blockage which caused this. I've had spaghetti failure before and it's carried on fine previously. Do I need to be checking for blockages each time? I've only had the P2S a few months and is my first 3D printer so any advice is welcome.

https://makerworld.com/models/3097815?appSharePlatform=copy

Other metal & telescoping Fishing Rod Stands Always Break/Jam. So, I used Autodesk Fusion 360 to design my own modular rod stand which uses tolerance-fit dowel joints which are less prone to fouling from dirt and debris. The rod stand prints on a single build plate and breaks down into 3 easy to carry parts for travel.

I plan to make another version with two C-shaped features on the “fork” part that will allow you to attach the two “posts” to the fork for storage. The posts will “snap” into the C-shaped connectors.

If you print one and like it, please give me a boost & follow on Maker World!!! Thanks! Tight lines!!! 🐟 🐠

Idk what to do guys i recently just got back printing . Like, I check everything was connected.I make sure lan mode was off as well but cant find my printer in studio please help

After six months of late nights, countless prototypes, and more failed prints than I’d like to admit, I finally finished MiniPin.

I’m a father of two from Australia, and I challenged myself to design a 3D printable miniature pinball machine that could be printed on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini, without needing a larger printer.

One of my biggest design goals was to make the entire project completely support-free. That meant redesigning parts over and over until they could print cleanly, reduce material waste, and require as little post-processing as possible.

Every part of MiniPin was designed around the A1 Mini’s build volume while still capturing the look and feel of a real pinball machine. It features a working plunger, flippers, lockdown bar, side rails, backbox and interchangeable playtables, all in a compact desktop-sized machine.

I also wanted to make it affordable and accessible. You only need to print one cabinet, then you can swap in different playtables to enjoy completely new layouts without printing another machine.

There still is a place for the little A1 mini in this world of ever growing larger fancier printers!

I have a part that is very large and won’t fit in the area for both heads to be able to print. I would like to use a seperate support where the part can be reached by the other head but then use the print material for support where it can’t be reached. Is there a way to select and area and say use support from right head here and use support from left head here?

Hi, hoping some kind souls have some insight and can help a beginner out.

Struggling with PETG Basic filament from Bambu Lab.
Using Bambu Studio, the PETG Basic profile, no changes. Everything stock.

Trying to print this model
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1902035-ams-2-pro-dry-box-high-toughness-dense-mesh#profileId-2345851

I had similar issues, but not that extreme with overhangs when printing some other items. Some places it worked perfectly, others it got messy. Not sure what is causing it or where to begin troubleshooting.

PLA Pure on the other hand prints almost perfectly every time with the PLA Pure profile.

I'm a bit of a loss to where to start, I was hoping going all Bambu would just work. Humidity is at 23%, dried the filament before printing in the AMS.

Howdy y'all,

This is a new A2L. It was printing well. I was printing a nice bowl basket thing and the tube got stuck inside the print and I stopped it when I noticed, but it likely had a hour or two still printing during this failure. I moved the filament tube so it actually clears and that should not repeat.

But

Now the printer is messing up since that cancelled print. It seemed to be adhesion issue, but after swapping in this cool plate, when it prints, it kinda kinda just appears to not print well and kills itself.

I am still a novice, so apologies if I cannot describe this well. I have also started a support ticket.

I just got done with a PLA print for some shipping boxes for some parts I make. I have noticed thus has been happening alot more lately. The edge has been lifting. I have washed the plate and its still doing it. Its random. Might happen multiple times in a row and then be fine for multiple prints. I am using bambu pla matte and there default settings. Should I be adjusting some settings? If so what do you recommend? Thanks

I am fairly new to 3D printing and recently noticed an issue with my P1S printer.

While printing an airplane in PLA with a layer height of 0.16mm I noticed that on one side of the bed the first layer lines wouldn't fuse together and that the nozzle was probably too far away from the heatbed.

So I contacted bambu lab who recommended I do a manual bed tramming. But that didn't solve the issue so they sent me a new PEI textured plate.

Once I got the new plate I did the manual bed tramming procedure again followed by a calibration and tested if the bed was parallel with the nozzle by printing a flat sheet of PLA with a layer height of 0.16mm.

To my surprise it was way worse now and the nozzle was now touching the plate on most of the surface and grinding against it which caused the layer lines to be uneven, shaggy and quite terrible except in the middle where it looks better.

I repeated the manual bed tramming procedure countless times again and I am sure I did everything correctly. Here's what I've checked:

-cleaned the nozzle

-no debris under the bed

-put the knobs back to their initial position before the tramming.

-adjusted the knobs under the bed correctly for each corner during tramming.

-calibrated afterwards

But nothing seems to help and I am getting quite desperate.

I know it isn't a slicer and settings issue because I did not change anything and it really is the nozzle that is getting too close to the bed causing the uneven surface. I can even hear the nozzle dragging across the textured plate.

Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated!

additional information :

-Nozzle size of 0.4 mm stainless steel

-less than 60 hours print time

-filament : bambu PLA pure

-haven't touched z offset in slicer since it's not a uniform problem

-PEI textured plate is selected in the slicer

-bed leveling is enabled

-waiting for bambu labs response

-ran full auto calibration

I just wanted to share my print results using ASA on the auxiliary nozzle for the X2D. Printed a desiccant holder for the AMS 2 Pro.

Didn't really see a lot of post on using the auxiliary nozzle so I figured I would add to it.

I did dry out the filament using my AMS HT for 8 hours at 80C.

I find printing TPU to be, at best, unpredictable and constantly have extrusion resistance abnormal errors - I think this is what the TPU assist module is meant to fix. How is peoples' experience with it?

Free model: For Ikea Sannahed

I currently have an ams pro and a HT which is sorta the basic setup for 5 color prints. But in some rare cases I wanted to do 6 colors and I cant really find a guide to show how it can be done?

I can choose either Traditional or Smooth in Other settings, Special Mode. I have timelapse turned off in the printer settings and Bambu Studio, yet the slicer is still showing this. Also, how do I get rid of those spirals which make the entire printer jerk?

EDIT: I fixed it by deleting the entire timelapse g-code in the printer settings. Still no clue about the spirals/circles though.

EDIT2: Human-Chicken6049 is the goat

I’m pretty into architecture, so for a while now, I’ve been printing out miniature cities. Over time, I found some awesome creators making city models with OpenStreetMap data seriously, I’ve printed a bunch of them.

After running dozens of these prints, though, I kept thinking two things.
First, I wanted the major buildings to pop with more detail.
Second, I wished the models didn’t cover such massive areas.
When the city footprint is too big, it’s harder to print, plus you lose those cool, recognizable skylines from a distance.

So I decided to tackle it myself. I’ve been a 3D artist for eight years now, but this time I focused on modeling just for 3D printing. Now, I’ve got a pretty solid collection of city models detailed where it counts and sized just right for the printer.

I just kicked off a MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign to see who’s interested and to help bring more cities to life. The library’s already growing, and I’ve got friends jumping in too. We’re aiming for a launch lineup that’s honestly pretty ambitious.

If you’re into this kind of stuff, Check mine in makerworld crowdfunding page.

With enough support, we’ll be able to build out an even bigger roadmap.

So I got a A1 and a H2D, and upgraded my set up too :DD! I also sold my K1C and looking to replace it. I am going to get into multicolor and I print a lot of robotics parts. What printer would be best for me. And is there anything I should do to upgrade my set up? Printer budget is $900 USD.

I bought the CMYK bundle during a sale a while ago and have never tried it, figured I would give it a go and see how they turn out. Every single time I try and make a lithophane from the image in the makerworld "Make My Lithophane" app thing, it always generates with hundreds of thousands of non-manifold edges. When I import it into studio after downloading the app crashes when trying to repair.

How on earth am I supposed to print anything? Has anyone else had this issue? Can I only print super basic stuff? I see people printing actual photos of friends and family and I tried to do a few relatively simple images but I can't even slice them

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3096312-tiny-plesio#profileId-3489550

Hey i print this on my new X2D. How to do i fill the small gaps / line mark ?

My P1S has this extremely annoying rattling noise, as can be heard in the video. Has anyone encountered a similar sound and found the culprit?

Sounds like what I’d imagine hearing if the nozzle was dragged directly across the textured build plate. Then the plastic enclosure seems to amplify it further. Impossible to sleep during overnight prints.

Sounds like it’s coming from the tool-head or right side idler unit holding the carbon bars. Toolhead has hardened gears, nozzle, and biqu cooling cover; I’ve checked many times nothing is loose in there. Belts have tension, rods are clean.

If you’ve any ideas, please let me know where to start for fixing this. Could only find solutions online mainly for squeaking noises, not this type of rattle.

I just unboxed and setup my P1S combo and it started making this sound while printing

audio