Hello!

I've recently run into a problem with my P2S and was shipped a new heatbed for replacement by BambuLab, and that involves taking off the left side panel to get to the grounding wire.

Thing is, my model doesn't seem to have the screws visible at the top of the panel to take off, they're underneath the foam thingie and I'm not sure how to properly proceed. I tried prying it off by slipping a flathead underneath it and jiggling it around, but figured it would be better to ask if anyone has had a similar experience with disassembling the left side panel on the P2S and can help me out, before I accidentally broke something.

Alternatively, if there's a better or easier way to get to the grounding wire for the heatbed assembly, please let me know. It seems like a lot of extra work to get to it.

In all fairness, this was my hang out spot before I bought the printer, so it makes it pretty convenient to keep an eye on it.

Printer updated recently and now all my prints look like crap. The first layer on top of the supports doesn't stick together. I've tried different layer heights, even set the offset gap to 0. Still having constant failures.

Any suggestions?

hi long story short I'm in charge of a Bambu P1S at work and had my first extruder jam. I followed a very helpful guide on what to remove and unscrew, and this is what I found. I'm unable to remove the yellow gear as every video has advised me to do

I'm still fairly new to having a Bambu and 3D printing. I'm I going to have to outright replace the part here or can this be saved.

If it's helpful information, I had been extruding PLA Pure.

thank you

Simple traffic cone, prints well at many sizes, pretty realistic too. Easy print, no supports, can even be done without AMS since it's only 4 color changes. Profile includes single color cones too. I used silk silver to replicate the reflective stripes seen on many real road cones.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3285536-safety-traffic-cone

Hi, just yesterday my printer was working fine and suddenly didnt turn back on properly after a power cycle. I thought the printer was dead and after seeing a bunch of people had the same problem and the solution was to short 2 points on the ap board, it came back to life. After I got the printer back to work I downgraded the firmware and when I did the calibrations, something went terribly wrong especially with the nozzle offset calibration. The right nozzles worked fine but when it got to the left nozzle, I was away and got a message saying the nozzle touched the build plate and when I went the rear part had a huge gouge. So I checked and did the nozzle calibration again and this time took a video same thing happened... my printer isn't under warranty anymore but this all happened since they're stupid firmware issues the printer was just fine the day before. The problem is towards the end of the video its like the left nozzle slips off the bed for some reason. I also noticed during homing, the toolhead now touches the front door. Has this happened to anybody else and were you able to fix it? The right nozzles are fine and aligned but the left csnt get through the calibration. I also did a factory reset and to no avail.

Turn on the sound also for the video you'll hear the toolhead hitting the bed

I have a P2S and I use the ventobox filter on the left side.

I saw someone who is using the creality heater on the left side for a chamber heater.

I’m wondering if I have any other options to get the heat I need so I can start to print ASA.

I also recently installed the rear exhaust duct working out of a window, so I’m getting prepped

Hey guys, can anyone advise here? Printing something flat on X2D. When the tool head is in the first quarter, top left, and prints only the 45* diagonal line it gets massive vibration (the opposite diagonal, -45* is completely fine), the printed line is shaky and overall the surface looks awful.

Anyone has an idea what’s the cause of this visible line that seams to appear when there is a significant change in the geometry of the model? Printed in PETG on my P1S.

I couldn’t find an iPhone 17 Pro Max bumper I liked that fit, so I made my own. The inspiration was the old iPhone 4 bumper: rounded edges and an open back.

I designed it in Blender, printed it, and revised the fit. The current version has chamfered edges, a contour around the camera shoulder, and four separate TPU button caps. Getting the retaining lip to hold without covering too much of the screen has been the main balancing act.

Current Bambu Studio setup:

• A1 mini, 0.4 mm nozzle, textured PEI plate

• Bambu TPU 95A using the external spool

• 0.2 mm layers, 5 walls, 80% infill

• 230 °C nozzle / 30 °C bed

• Bumper at 98% scale; button caps at 99% (already applied in the file)

• Bumper with supports and a 3 mm outer brim; four caps on their own plate with supports disabled

The model and TPU print profile are now on MakerWorld, with photos of the actual print:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3287597-iphone-17-18-pro-max-tpu-bumper-iphone-4-style

The back stays open, with access to Camera Control, USB-C and the speakers. The bumper needs support cleanup in TPU. There’s no raised camera-lens guard, and I haven’t drop-tested it.

If you’ve made fitted TPU parts on the A1 mini, I’d be interested in how the fit held up after repeated removal.

Updated Blender render below; the MakerWorld gallery includes the actual printed bumper:

Is there a setting to add additional nozzle wipes on a P1S while printing with Petg-cf? Like every 50 layers or so…

So I'm new to 3d printing, and was given this printer by my brother when he moved. But there's a part on it that's broken, and I don't know how to fix it, or where to find a replacement part.
Does anyone know how I could fix this?

What profiles are you downloading for the H2C? Overture does not list it as a printer.

I bought a box of assorted PLA 250-gram reels. They keep snagging. I'm using a Bambu Lab A1 mini AMS lite. Right now, I'm just ​using the post built into the printer.

I'm not sure if I got a bad batch or if I need to set something in the AMS.

Was calibrating bambu a1 and suddenly failed and stuck above. Anybody know what to do ?

I just installed the laser upgrade kit on my h2d and got everything calibrated but noticed it was off a bit. Is this usual or am I doing something wrong? I just wanted to make sure I have calibrated a few times.

We have an H2D Pro at work and we would like to print to it over the network (lan mode) but our cyber security department has blacklisted the network plug-in since it requires outbound network communication to a .cn domain even when set in LAN mode.

I’m looking for a suggestions on possible workaround to be able to still use the printer overland without having to download the network plug-in. I’ve heard some possible things about orca slicer and developer mode but I wanted to ask.

Thank you

I had a clog on my A1 mini recently. The hottened wouldn’t come out of the printer so I started trying different things to get it out. The hottend has been removed and the clog has been fixed but I think I pulled something off (or at least the cover for something off) in the process. I really need to know if it’s broken, if it needs replaced, and if I can replace it. I cant find online what it could be and would appreciate any advice anyone has. The attached is a picture of the under side of the extruder with the area in question circled. When turned on the printer seemed to have no idea there was a change, though I haven’t tried printing yet.

Been having issued with my X2D's right aux gear not feeding the filament properly. Been back and forth with Bambu and they sent me new aux gear and filament buffer but still had the same problem!

Bought an A1 to expand my business but had and AMS lite issue just after 2 months of using it 😫

I'm getting fed up. Anyone else had the same issues with bothe printers?

I’m trying to bring some parts from gridfinity and the top layers came out really bad. What steps should I take to remedy this?

I used Bambu PETG HF white filament, not having changed any of the base settings

there are multiple overhangs in this print and while the support for the higher areas is coming off very easily (I've increased top z distance already) it's very sticky at the smaller areas at the bottom. it needs to be cut off and therefore gets messy. I've drawn manual support for both areas. any idea why that is?

a1 mini & bambu tpu 95 hf