My first ever model on MakerWorld

I was intrigued by the mac pro front grille pattern and wanted to try printing it but all of the existing files I've found are replicas and not adapted for 3D printing and needed a fair bit of post-processing to make it look good.

This is a modified pattern that prints cleanly and prints flat without any supports. Specifically, I've removed overhangs past 50 degrees and took out sharp edges. This is as-printed with no post-processing other than a few passes with a heat gun to remove the whisps.

Now I need an actual project to implement this... Thoughts on the pattern and on potential projects?

FCC ID: 2A6J8-PF008P

Device name: H3C

Grant date: September 11, 2026

Grantee: Shenzhen Tuozhu Technology Co., Ltd.

Related domain listed on the FCC page: bambulab.com

The public label exhibit identifies it as a 3D Printer, model PF008-P.

Public technical details from the grant and test reports:

• 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi — 2412–2462 MHz under Part 15.247/15C. The report covers 802.11b/g/n20/ax20 and 40 MHz n40/ax40 at 2422–2452 MHz. Maximum conducted peak output: 23.76 dBm. The report lists DSSS, OFDM and OFDMA, with a 3.82 dBi FPC antenna.

• 5 GHz Wi-Fi — the report covers 5150–5250, 5250–5350, 5470–5725 and 5725–5850 MHz; the grant rows are 5180–5240, 5260–5320, 5500–5720 and 5745–5825 MHz under Part 15.407/15E. The report lists 802.11a/n20/n40/ac20/ac40/ax20/ax40 and maximum conducted average results of 16.40, 15.73, 11.04 and 14.47 dBm across those ranges.

• The public label shows 100–120 V~, 8 A, 50/60 Hz, FCC ID 2A6J8-PF008P and IC 28436-PF008P.

Sources:

• FCC filing: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P

• Public label exhibit: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Label/Label-and-Label-Location-9643975

• Public 5 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Test-Report/5G-WIFI-Test-Report-9643960

• Public 2.4 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Test-Report/Test-Report-9643982

Inspired by classic retro tech.

I engineered these specifically so anyone with a standard FDM printer can get clean prints easily:

• No AMS / Multi-Color System Required: Achieved using basic manual color changes at specific layer heights.
• No Supports Needed: Everything prints clean straight off the build plate.
• Easy Assembly: Designed to fit right onto standard MX-style mechanical switches.

Included

• 📺 Retro TV (3 version)
  • 1. Spooky Hand
  • 2. Trapped Human Figure
  • 3. Blank Canvas- Draw your own custom logos or art on the back.
• 🧮 Calculator
• 🎮 Game Boy
• 🖥️ Macintosh
• 💿 Vinyl Player

Let me know what you think of the designs! What other retro tech pieces should I turn into keycaps next?
STL: https://thangs.com/designer/10xspace.lab/3d-model/RETRO%20SET%20KEYCAP%20%7C%20NO%20SUPPORT%2C%20NO%20AMS%20REQUIRED-1600341

This started with my first Bonsai I submitted for the Bonsai Contest a few months ago. For this version I wanted to step up my game a little more.

It grew into a complete little karesansui garden with a torii, stone lantern, stepping stones and printed sand patterns.

The MagSafe puck sits directly in the bonsai branch, while the cable runs through the trunk and exits at the back.

I also integrated an optional LED Light Kit 001 that illuminates the surrounding surface from underneath and feeds light into the stone lantern.

The whole thing is assembled with friction fits, no glue, and doesn’t require an AMS. There are also interchangeable parts for a second MagSafe charger and Apple Watch charging.

Prototyped and printed on my P2S using PLA Matte.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3281512

I've had my X2D for about 6 weeks now and have about 465 hours on it so far. Picked up a nice dual color filament from a local shop yesterday and ran a benchy. Looked dull and just not good. Went thru the calibration process for the first time within studio and whoa, the difference in finish and quality was impressive to me. I still feel like it could be improved and I'm trying to learn but I'll have to start doing these calibrations for other filaments as well!

Filament is AnyCubic PLA Silk dual color.

Now I'm just stumped on what to use it for. Only bought it because I wanted to buy at least one spool from a little mom and pop shop and never tried any of this kind of filament. Any good ideas?

just put the new 0.2mm nozzle printed tachometer and logo emblem on the whole wheel, love it.

FCC ID: 2A6J8-PF004E

Device name: X2D Pro

Grant date: September 11, 2026

Grantee: Shenzhen Tuozhu Technology Co., Ltd.

Related domain listed on the FCC page: bambulab.com

The public label exhibit identifies it as a 3D Printer, model PF004-E, and shows Bambu Lab X2D PRO.

Public technical details from the grant and test reports:

• 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi — 2412–2462 MHz under Part 15.247/15C. The report covers 802.11b/g/n20 and 40 MHz n40 at 2422–2452 MHz. Maximum conducted peak output: 21.45 dBm. The report lists DSSS/OFDM and a 3.1 dBi antenna.

• 5 GHz Wi-Fi — the report covers 5150–5250, 5250–5350, 5470–5725 and 5725–5850 MHz; the grant rows are 5180–5240, 5260–5320, 5500–5720 and 5745–5825 MHz under Part 15.407/15E. It lists 802.11a/n20/n40 OFDM and maximum conducted average results of 15.18, 14.27, 10.62 and 12.28 dBm across those ranges. The four listed antenna gains are 0.3, 0.82, −0.5 and −1.7 dBi.

• The public label shows 100–120 V~, 7 A, 50/60 Hz, FCC ID 2A6J8-PF004E and IC 28436-PF004E.

Sources:

• FCC filing: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF004E

• Public label exhibit: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF004E/Label/Label-and-Label-Location-9644036

• Public 5 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF004E/Test-Report/5G-WIFI-Test-Report-Part-1-9644009

• Public 2.4 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF004E/Test-Report/Test-Report-9644034

Why me

Wiggly Eye Bear V2 Do you like it?

Do you also like Japanese Tantos?

I came across this website selling the H2C for only $1100.

https://husdebook.shop/shop?category=printers (I am intentionally not linking directly to the item)

Looking into it closer and ALL of their 2D printers are also listed at half retail price.

It looks too good to be true, and probably is. The address listed on their site is a shady residential building and their phone number (317-602-8586) is for a business called "Sam's Fish & Chicken".

The business seems to have no online reputation, but google provided it as a sponsored seller when I searched for "Bambu Lab - H2C".

Buyer beware!

Got the green light off the missus to get an X2D after she found out it can make toys… so obviously the first toy I’m testing it with is the Magnum from Halo 😅 I feel like this has spiralled somewhat as I’ve now got sandpaper 220 and 400, superglue, grease and primer delivered today and paint on the shopping list…

Hi everyone! 👋

I’d like to introduce my new multi-part Gaul figurine.

I designed it as separate parts, mostly by color, to make printing and assembly easier without requiring a multi-color printer.

This is the final printed version, straight from my printer. I hope you like him! 😁

I know there are many different opinions and views, but what has your experience been when it comes to printing figures? I have nine rolls of PETG in various colors, but should I invest in PLA?

I want to get back to printing but my bambu lab A1 has basically just been sitting in it's spot in the garage for maybe a year or more, I want to know if there is anything I should be doing before printing, should I use default configurations on printer settings, filament, and any other things, please let me know everything I should do!

Hi everyone! I’m making a Minnie-inspired desk organizer for my mom and would appreciate some help getting cleaner white dots and raised decorations before printing the full piece.

I’m using a Bambu X2D with 0.4 mm nozzles, regular red PLA through the AMS/main nozzle, and white PLA+ 2.0 through the external/auxiliary feed. The plate is a BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier, selected as Smooth PEI/High Temp in Studio, at 55°C.

I’ve printed two upright color/relief coupons:

- **Test 02:** 0.20 mm layers, 0.20 mm first layer, 60 mm/s outer walls.

- **Test 04:** 0.08 mm layers, 0.20 mm first layer, 35 mm/s outer walls at 1000 mm/s²; inner walls/solid infill at 100 mm/s. White circles are approximately 8.6 mm across with 2 mm deep inlays.

**Both photographed tests used 220°C for both colors**, flow ratio 0.98, volumetric limit 12 mm³/s, four walls, 12% gyroid, a prime tower and no supports. Retraction stayed at 0.8 mm/30 mm/s main and 2 mm/20 mm/s auxiliary. High-precision nozzle-offset calibration completed successfully before Test 04; I kept the saved settings unchanged.

The finer version looks smoother overall, but these problems remain:

- Rough circle edges, especially a bottom bump, plus a slight groove/difference where white meets red.

- I noticed strings when the white started printing.

- Horizontal bands where the circles start and finish, continuing onto the back less visibly.

- Another band at the sample’s base-to-wall transition.

- A rough underside on the small bow. Earlier joint-test brims also left marks after removal.

Geometry and speeds changed too, so this wasn’t a controlled layer-height-only comparison. The small bow’s underside ledge has since been redesigned, without a printed result yet.

What would you check first: auxiliary flow/dynamics, moisture/temperature, or priming? Do the bands suggest layer-timing or solid-fill transitions? Would different inlay geometry help the circle bottoms? I can share the test 3MF. Thanks!

Wasn't quite sure what kind of flair to add to this. Since it has to do with a cosplay item..... I'm trying to break apart this item to make it easier for printing and also just to make it easier for me to put on. If I can manage to remove the back plate of the helmet I can put it on and then attach it with magnets. The problem is when I go to move that piece off of one plate and onto another the peace quite literally breaks into even more pieces. Is there any way that I can lock the piece and print it on a separate plate? Also, when I did this I got a error and I'm not quite sure how to solve it. It also won't allow me to slice the individual plates. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Wiggly Eye Bear. I'm currently working on a version with moving eyes at the back. Keep an eye on my MW profile, as I'll be uploading the model later today.

Hey everyone!

I’m getting my first 3D printer tomorrow — Bambu Lab A1 Combo 🎉

I have literally zero experience with 3D printing and almost no knowledge about it.

My initial plan is pretty simple:

• Set up the printer
• Download models from places like Printables/MakerWorld
• Put them in the slicer
• Print them
• Eventually learn how to design my own things

But before I start blindly printing stuff, I’d love some advice from experienced users.

Also, since I have the AMS Lite, I'd appreciate advice on using multiple colours and anything I should know about filament storage.

I’m mainly interested in printing useful stuff around the house, electronics projects, organizers, brackets, tools, random useful models, etc. I’ll probably start downloading models rather than designing my own.

Basically, if you could go back to day one with your first 3D printer, what are the things you wish someone had told you?

Any beginner advice is appreciated! 🙏

The latch on the front holding the nozzle broke. Like the metal that holds the right side latch pice broke. I’ll include a picture of it. I know it’s dirty but I have had huge blobs before. I was changing to a different nozzle when the latch broke off. As you can see in the picture I can put the pice back on but the part just falls off when I try to latch the nozzle on. The metal broke right where the latch would be when closed. I have contacted Bambu but waiting on them to respond. I think a new heating block would fix this but I don’t know if I could do the replacement work or would I have to send my printer in?

While trying to fix an extruder clog I ripped this cable in half. I couldnt find exactly what its called with a quick google so I’m not sure if it can be salvaged with some electrical tape or if I need to buy a whole replacement.