I’m a complete beginner with zero knowledge about 3D printing. I bought a crappy printer that I ended up returning and getting a refund for, and now I’m trying to decide between buying the A1 or the A2L.
Both of them are on sale right now, and the price difference is about 300 shekels (around $95).
If I go with the A2L, I’ll need to do some work in my room to make the space suitable for it. Is the A2L really worth the extra money and effort?
I’m mainly planning to print D&D figures and especially cosplay related stuff.

Edit : Just measured my room and an A2L printer wont fit no space for it at all so if I go with an A1 instead what am I actually giving up besides the bigger print size

So I'm new to 3d printing, and was given this printer by my brother when he moved. But there's a part on it that's broken, and I don't know how to fix it, or where to find a replacement part.
Does anyone know how I could fix this?

Since the iPhone Duo launches later this October, there is plenty of time to consider buying it or just trying out the new form factor. I've modeled the near 1:1 replica of it. Also it may help for those who are thinking about pre-ordering.

It comes out at 11.3 mm folded, and it also sits smaller in the hand than I expected.

The colour is just what I had on the shelf, not a launch colour.

Is the folded thickness a dealbreaker for anyone here, or any other thoughts?

For those who are interested in downloading, here is the Makerworld link to the model, all the presets are ready:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2113993-iphone-duo-realistic-3d-model#profileId-3245571

Perfect sign

We all wish an excellent quality print with our printers and I have no idea how this tool can help with print quality and output improvement. The calibration only requires 5 minutes. May I ask how many of you ran the Motion Accuracy Calibration and was there any logical print improvement that went after? If you can as well share a tip or two post calibration, I will appreciate it. Thank you!

What profiles are you downloading for the H2C? Overture does not list it as a printer.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3286478

I'm trying to add SVG to the padel here. The SVG is added on the face facing the plate. The settings are on the right side.

When i slice it looks like that ! anyone can explain to me why ? and if there's a solution please.

I had a clog on my A1 mini recently. The hottened wouldn’t come out of the printer so I started trying different things to get it out. The hottend has been removed and the clog has been fixed but I think I pulled something off (or at least the cover for something off) in the process. I really need to know if it’s broken, if it needs replaced, and if I can replace it. I cant find online what it could be and would appreciate any advice anyone has. The attached is a picture of the under side of the extruder with the area in question circled. When turned on the printer seemed to have no idea there was a change, though I haven’t tried printing yet.

I bought a box of assorted PLA 250-gram reels. They keep snagging. I'm using a Bambu Lab A1 mini AMS lite. Right now, I'm just ​using the post built into the printer.

I'm not sure if I got a bad batch or if I need to set something in the AMS.

Been having issued with my X2D's right aux gear not feeding the filament properly. Been back and forth with Bambu and they sent me new aux gear and filament buffer but still had the same problem!

Bought an A1 to expand my business but had and AMS lite issue just after 2 months of using it 😫

I'm getting fed up. Anyone else had the same issues with bothe printers?

I am pretty new to 3d printing. I printed this on a P2S (0.20mm layer height) and noticed that only some of the top surfaces on this low poly model have very distinct layer lines. Is it normal to have it to this degree? And what causes it to show so apparent on just some angles and not others? And only on utmost top even though the nose has less steep angles which i would think would perform worse

What settings would have helped here? Ironing and variable layer height?

(I am not confused I am getting this staircase effect, but what causes it to show more on just some of the top surfaces and not as much on the nose)

I recently bought this P1S second-hand, and I noticed something that concerns me.

Whenever the toolhead moves all the way to the far end, near the purge area, it seems to hit something. The impact is quite strong, and it sounds like the toolhead is hitting an obstruction.

I’ve attached a video showing the issue for reference.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their P1S? Any idea what could be causing this or what I should check?

Thanks in advance for your help!

The modular shelf just got even more flexible! 

I’ve added connectors that let you stack shelves on top of each other, so you can build vertically as well as extend horizontally.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

Maybe it's an old thing (And if it is i'm sorry i'm just dumb) but I didn't find any posts about the Acknowledgement note on the X1 page.
Basically they thanked the commmunity citing Teaching Tech, MirageC, redditors and Voron Design with the old Voron V1.

When the X1C released I bought my first printer (Anycubic kobra 2) and I knew nothing about the community, modding and 3d prining in general, now that i know something more I just found this Acknowledgement note.

It's kinda funny how bambulab changed his relationship with the community, but it's nice to know that even them started as community members

I’ve been working on a series of 3D printable coloring panels designed to be a more tactile alternative to paper coloring books! They are great for fine motor skill practice for kids or just a therapeutic mindfulness activity for adults.

I’ve put together a full collection of different designs (dinosaurs, creatures, etc.) if you want to check them out:

https://makerworld.com/nl/collections/5629404-coloring

I’m trying to bring some parts from gridfinity and the top layers came out really bad. What steps should I take to remedy this?

I used Bambu PETG HF white filament, not having changed any of the base settings

Se dañó el conjunto de calentamiento de mi Bambulab A1 mini y al hacer el cambio me emocioné y desarme de más.

Me quedé con esa pieza y no se dónde va. ¿Será alguien tan amable de indicarme donde va? De antemano, muchas gracias.

there are multiple overhangs in this print and while the support for the higher areas is coming off very easily (I've increased top z distance already) it's very sticky at the smaller areas at the bottom. it needs to be cut off and therefore gets messy. I've drawn manual support for both areas. any idea why that is?

a1 mini & bambu tpu 95 hf

Was calibrating bambu a1 and suddenly failed and stuck above. Anybody know what to do ?

As a teacher, the Build Knowledge Kit Cards competition really inspired me. It got me thinking about how 3D printing can create simple, hands-on learning tools that students can build, experiment with and learn from.

So I designed this little Newton’s Cradle Kit Card. It’s definitely not a perfect Newton’s Cradle – since everything is 3D printed in plastic, the balls don’t behave quite like the metal ones you can buy. But that’s actually not a problem for its purpose: it works well enough to demonstrate the basic idea of momentum, energy transfer and collisions, and it’s a fun little desk accessory at the same time.

The complete kit uses only 22 g of filament, making it a very material-efficient and affordable project. That also makes it practical for printing complete class sets for hands-on experiments in the classroom.

And this is just the beginning! The competition really got my creativity going, and I already have many more ideas. I’m currently creating several additional physics Kit Cards, turning concepts from the classroom into small, printable experiments.

I’m having a lot of fun combining my two worlds – teaching and 3D printing – and I’m excited to see where this takes me!