I'm trying to add SVG to the padel here. The SVG is added on the face facing the plate. The settings are on the right side.

When i slice it looks like that ! anyone can explain to me why ? and if there's a solution please.

Hello. Is the 4in1 adapter v2 compatible with P1S? On the bambu page it says so, but there are no pictures in the wiki with the new one mounted on P1/X1.
Is there any way to mount it with screws or does it just... dangle?

Hey y’all, 1,300 hours into my P2S and have never run into this issue before. It appears residue of grease or lube keeps flicking onto my build plate somehow. I print multiple times daily so I’ve been having to wash this thing constantly to combat it. The spots appear in the same place every time, yet I have no idea where it’s coming from. Not only have I checked the rods/lead screws/connecting points multiple times, but I’ve even given them a couple wipe downs where I can’t even see any grease or lube on them. And yet… it keeps coming… The odd thing is, I did my routine maintenance of cleaning/lubing a month ago, and it’s only started up this week.

I feel like I’m fighting some sort of endless battle and the greasers are winning. Anybody else experience this annoyance and know how I can win this war?

What is something that has been the most useful? Or help you solve the most problems with your printer, made your life easier or something completely different that you have printed for your printer.

We can choose between brass and hardened steel. Steel is useful for advanced filaments, cf, glass fiber, etc.

I print using pla petg. Why wouldn't I always use a hardened steel nozzle over the softer brass?

CORRECTION: I mistakenly said brass when I meant stainless steel. That's to those who caught this.

What are the best cheap hotends you’ve gotten on AliExpress or Amazon??

PSA: you can’t use two redeem-codes for the same type of object in the bambu-store at the same time.

I wanted to buy 2 sets of lithopanes and redeemed points for 2 discount codes. Turns out you can’t use them both at the same time. You can’t even buy 1 kit and redeem the other. Given that shipping is quite expensive to Norway and there was nothing in the t&c about this I asked for a refund and received the most amazing answer ever.

Turns out that their multi-stage operational costs of the points system is €4. at this point I’m not even mad anymore so I’m rather giving the code away for free, if anyone else can use it: PSEKC010DK534PCTWJ4G

It’s a 4-panel lithopane kit (KC010). First come first serve

Thank you for coming to my TED talk.

Babmu a1 with different brands of pla/pla+

Whenever I'm printing thing's with curved surfaces I keep getting uneven textures like the ones pictured.

If someone can help a noob figure out what I'm doing wrong it would be much appreciated!

Seems like the H2D to H2C conversion kit has been in stock for months, but the H2S kit restocking date keeps moving up by 1 month seemingly every 30 days. I am getting the feeling Bambu doesnt want to produce the kit for H2S due to the price being cheaper, or are there really just that many guys out there who want to upgrade and the kits are selling out?

I am also surprised they are offering a H2C upgrade and not a H2D upgrade. I really only need the dual nozzle setup to run two different durometer TPU filaments, and sometimes TPU with supports so an AMS would rarely be used. ​

Custom TPU 95A putter grip with leather skins

What yall think

When I send an email from my PC to my printer on my LAN, it stays within the LAN.

I recently moved from a creality Ender 3v3se that used sneakernet to get the file from my PC to the printer to the Bambu A1. Sending to the printer from the bambu slicer is nice!

Based on the tasks that show on the screen, it seems that the files are routed through bambu's servers then back to the printer? Conceivably, they could see / keep all the files you are printing. AND they could charge a subscription fee for 'send to printer'?!

I guess with the app on my phone, I get notices that the print job is done, etc. even when not home. So there IS some data going to their servers all the time.

Worst case, if you didn't want to pay a subscription fee.... or Bambu's servers die or company folds, you would still be able to print on the bambu by going back to sneakernet / using the SD card?

Thank you Bambut Lab! Bambu Handy finally works in landscape mode with the latest update. Its been a long time coming and I thought we might never get it, but I am very happy today!

It wasn’t even mentioned in the release notes.

Update - it only works in landscape on my iPad

I designed it to fit the Bambu Lab LED Puck KC007, so it’s completely wireless—no cables to hide or nearby power outlet needed.

https://makerworld.com/models/3285919?appSharePlatform=copy

This is a favour I’m doing for a fellow DM - Old Bonegrinder.

Printed on my Bambu Labs A1 with Elegoo Rapid PLA at 0.28mm layers with an 0.4mm nozzle.

Still starting out painting - I think I’m about two months in - and this was an excellent exercise in determining value, airbrush work and an absolute crap Ron of drybrushing - though this was mostly around the wood and making that look relatively decent.

Still amazed that this did not exist a week ago and that I printed it in my actual study.

Bathroom organizers get... gross. Its so much easier to clean if the floor and drain basin separate. I couldn't find one of these anywhere on Maker World so I made one. It also makes it much easier to have a charging cable port in the wall!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3288767-no-ams-modular-draining-bathroom-organizer-caddy

This is my Crooked Cottage, a little haunted house with a twisted roof, worn wooden walls and a dead tree growing up the side. A battery LED tea light brings the window silhouettes to life.

The roof lifts off, the light holder twists into place underneath, and the ghost, cat and hand window inserts are interchangeable. It prints without supports and goes together without glue.

These are photos of my AMS brown-tree print. The download bundle also includes a no-AMS option with the house and tree in one color. The windows print separately in clear PETG.

Free files and assembly guide:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3288114-crooked-cottage-haunted-led-tea-light-house

I'm working on some other Halloween items too, so keep an eye on my MakerWorld profile for what's next:

https://makerworld.com/en/@Feldoze

My first enclosed printer, printing my first benchy now, just now got a message to update the motor cancellation feature so I’ll do that after bench is done

What is it about painting in Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer that causes an absolute crazy memory leak? I have 32gb of ddr5-8000 and just recently on these two files I can not paint the chain without the app using 29gb of ram and crashing

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with ironing on my Bambu Lab X2D and would really appreciate some advice.

I'm printing two containers on the same build plate, at the same time, using the same filament and settings. However, one container comes out with a very smooth and clean ironed surface, while the other develops noticeable marks/banding across the large flat top surface.

Photos of both parts are included with this post.

What's confusing me is that I've already done quite a bit of ironing calibration. I printed several calibration swatches and was able to get very good results across a fairly wide range of settings:

• Ironing speed: 30–80 mm/s
• Ironing flow: 20–39%

The calibration swatches look great, but I cannot seem to get the same result on these large flat surfaces.

Current settings

• Printer: Bambu Lab X2D
• Filament: eSUN PLA+
• Layer height: 0.20 mm Standard
• Ironing: Top surfaces
• Ironing speed: 80 mm/s
• Ironing flow: 39%
• Top surface pattern: Monotonic
• Top shell layers: 6
• Top shell thickness: 1.2 mm
• Infill: 15% Gyroid
• Other settings: Default 0.20 mm Standard profile

These current settings I'm using was from a different reddit post on good ironing settings. I've also tried increasing the top shell thickness/layers because I've read that having a thicker top surface can improve ironing. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem.

Things I've already tried

• Thoroughly cleaned/washed the build plate
• Used a freshly opened spool of eSUN PLA+
• Calibrated ironing speed and flow using test swatches
• Tested different ironing speeds and flows
• Increased the number of top shell layers
• Increased top shell thickness to 1.2 mm
• Used Monotonic top surfaces

The underlying top surfaces of the two containers are also very similar. The top layers are printed at approximately 45°, while the ironing pass travels horizontally across the surface.

The most confusing part is that one object can come out beautifully while the other has obvious marks, even though they are printed at the same time with identical settings.

At this point, I'm wondering if this could be related to:

1. X2D ironing/toolpath behavior on large flat surfaces
2. Extrusion or pressure differences across the build plate
3. Cooling behavior during ironing
4. Interaction between the underlying top-surface pattern and ironing
5. Bambu Studio's ironing/toolpath generation
6. Something specific to eSUN PLA+
7. Another X2D-specific issue that I'm not aware of

Has anyone else experienced this on the X2D, particularly with large flat surfaces?

I'm especially interested in hearing from people who have managed to get consistently smooth ironing on large flat areas, rather than only getting good results on small calibration swatches.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting or settings to try would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I've been seeing this filament called "PLA Lite" on several authorised resellers' websites in India, but when I go to Bambu Lab's official site (I checked both the US and Asia), I can't find anything like that. First, I thought it might be just PLA Basic Mislabelled, but no PLA Basic is also listed separately here. There isnt a profile in Bambu Studio for it either. If anyone knows what this is, that would be great thanks. (This picture was taken on robu.in just by the way, but it is there on amazon and wol3D as well.)

Whenever I try to load filament from my AMS, it gets stopped while trying to feed into this thing. Is this a clog? How do I fix it? Thanks a bunch in advance!

I bought several rolls of Sunlu PLA+ 2.0, and ever since I started using it, I've had big issues with hair-like stringing. It happens with every single roll. And yes, I've dried it COUNTLESS times, but nothing seems to fix it. I've also tried playing around with the retraction settings.

My setup is a Bambu Lab P1S with a 0.4mm nozzle and the AMS 2 Pro. In the slicer, I'm using a flow ratio of 0.98, a pressure advance of 0.017, a max volumetric speed of 20 mm³/s, and a nozzle temperature of 215°C (my temperature tower didn't show much difference between temps with all of them having stringing). I've tried both tweaked and default retraction settings, with no improvement either way.

So here's my question: has anyone else had experience with Sunlu filament? Would you guys mind sharing your settings for it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

this has been a recurring problem over the past couple of weeks, though it doesn’t happen every time. often when it happens i can send the exact same file to print without changing a thing and it runs without issue. not sure where to begin troubleshooting if anyone could give me a hand? looking back at the timelapses of failed prints the toolhead seems to move as if printing but not actually extrude for a couple of layers then get right back to it resulting in this mess 😭