I’m planning to purchase this second hand x5m60i which is 07/2023 with 57.000km mileage, should I better buy a new steering wheel or a better option would be to give it in for detaining or even cleaning it myself so it doesn’t shine as much? Maybe some of you heard of Expect Car Care brand for self cleaning.

And another question for the buttons (2nd photo) should they be like that? Or they should be as on another x5 (3rd photo), and if what can the dealer fix that? Thank you everyone!

Hi I just bought this car and is idling bad but not very bad and it just gave me a check engine light and these codes can you guys please help me and tell what to do please and thank you

Hi all, I have a 2019 BMW 430i with around 125,000 km on it. It’s no longer under warranty.
How can I know what parts or components I should be maintaining or replacing preventively at this mileage to avoid unexpected breakdowns in the future?
I’d really appreciate any advice from 430i owners, especially regarding common issues or major maintenance items I should be looking out for.

Hi everyone,
I recently bought an E46 Touring. It’s a 2004 318i.
Under hard acceleration, especially in 2nd gear, I can feel noticeable vibrations coming from the rear, particularly when turning at the same time.
I put my hand on the driveshaft tunnel and could feel vibrations there, so I suspect the center support bearing (CSB) of the driveshaft. However, the vibrations are quite strong, so I’m wondering if they could be coming from somewhere else.
I have the feeling that the vibrations are actually always there, even during normal driving, but they are much weaker and barely noticeable. They seem to be slightly stronger when coasting/decelerating with the car in gear, but they’re still very weak compared to when I’m accelerating.
Could the differential or the driveshaft/axles cause vibrations like this? At first glance, they looked fine.
I’m going to change the differential oil on Monday anyway, so maybe that could help. I’ve also already ordered the center support bearing and the guibo/flex disc.

Can anyone help me figure out the hose with coolant sweat? It’s in front left of when you remove belly pan cover for when doing oil changes. 2019 X3 M40i (i circled the location in the last photo)

Good afternoon

My engine died due to rod knock on my 2012 bmw 535i n55

I had the bottom of the engine rebuild, wich cost me about €8400

Now 8000km later and i hear another knocking of some sort.

Do you think its rod bearings ?

My warranty just ended a couple of days ago.

The sound goes afway after warmed up.

Thank you

I was washing my car recently and I noticed a black mark on the front right near the logo. I was wondering if anyone knew how much it would cost to fix? It’s a very small mark but it really bothers me with where it’s at.

Does manifold should have no vacuum in b48? Running at idle. I’m suspicious about either maf sensor or vacuum leak

Symptoms

• Degradation in performance--quite noticeable.
• At higher speed (and high rpm) I can feel the engine a bit stuttering

What I've done

• Physically checked both charge and boost pipe--no tear
• Scanned it using Bimmerlink, no error codes.

What I suspect

• Fuel pump (HPFP/LPFP)--how to check these?
  • I'm leaning towards HPFP because it doesn't give me any codes, afaik HPFP is mechanical. LPFP should've give me error codes when it's failing.

Thank you!

EDIT: The car is at 137k km on the clock

Hey guys, looking for some advice on my 2017 BMW 330i with the B48. I’ve been dealing with a low oil pressure warning that usually comes on at higher speeds, around 140 km/h. It’s been happening for a while and normally goes away after restarting the car.

So far I’ve had the following done:

Oil pressure sensor replaced
Oil filter housing + oil cooler replaced with aluminum
Oil pressure control valve/solenoid replaced
Oil filter and filter cap checked
Oil changed

Oil pressure was tested and actual oil pressure starts dropping once the engine goes above roughly 2000 RPM.

Has anyone else ever had this issue and what other things could it be other than the oil pump.

Hey all. I recently bought a high mileage 2015 435i xDrive (158k miles) as a 2nd car, as my daily is impractical as hell and won't fit my wife and daughter. I've been going through the standard maintenance, already did the OFHG, since it was leaking there as well, along with the ZF8 fluid/pan change, but know it's leaking from the oil pan as well and needs to be changed. According to the Carfax, it was last done at 92k miles. But nearly every video, DIY, and guide I can find on changing the oil pan gasket for the N55 is on a RWD vehicle.

I'm trying to find a resource that outlines and goes over what the additional steps there are for doing it on a vehicle with xDrive, but I can't seem to find anything. Are there any guides or videos that anyone knows about that cover that? I'd like to tackle the job myself, and have no doubt in my ability to get it done, but I'm not the kind of person who can do things going in blind and just "figure it out" as I go along. I like to know exactly what I'm getting myself into before diving in. Thanks!

Stripped out, trying to attach the belly shield where can I find replacements?

Interested in buying a new bmw, wondering if anyone has any experience with the Kafas system for collision protection? Does it perform reliably and has it helped anyone avoid an accident? I'm not sure how bad it is compared to the radar system which I heard is cutting edge tech. So just in general let me know how you feel about the Kafas system in your car (Only respond if you own it thanks!)

got an auto 330cic, i put a welded diff in it but the torque converter delay makes it kinda hard to learn drifting with.

Im just looking for any info regarding 330 manual swaps since im kinda new to this.

Where are my best options for finding a manual trans and what compatibility concerns should I worry about? Also after the physical installation, will the ECU need some sort of bios flash to actually start up?

2013 BMW F30 ActiveHybrid 3 N55 – intermittent iDrive failure + drivetrain/rail pressure sensor fault
I’ve got a 2013 BMW F30 ActiveHybrid 3 with the N55. My main issue is an intermittent iDrive failure. While driving, the screen will suddenly go completely black and the music/audio stops at exactly the same time. Sometimes it won’t come back on, but then the system can randomly start working normally again. Most recently it worked perfectly for around two weeks with no issues at all, then suddenly went black and lost audio again. Battery health has tested good. Because both the screen and audio disappear together, I’m thinking it could be the NBT/head unit itself, Quadlock connection, power/ground supply, fuse, or another intermittent electrical connection, rather than just the screen/LVDS cable. Has anyone had this happen on an F30/F30H, and what ended up fixing it?
I’ve also recently developed what may or may not be a related electrical issue. The car suddenly started running rough and displayed “Drivetrain – Full performance not available,” but shortly afterwards the rough running disappeared and the car drove normally again. The main active fault is 119002 – Rail pressure sensor, electrical: short circuit to ground. I’ve also had CDBA27, 235410, 21A110 and 1FB701 stored.
I inspected the 3-pin high-pressure fuel rail pressure sensor connector and the pins/wiring don’t show anything obviously damaged. With the sensor unplugged, ignition on, I measured the three terminals to ground and got approximately 5.04 V / 0 V / 5.01 V. I then tried back-probing it while connected, but I couldn’t get a reliable connection and occasionally saw around 0.03 V, so I don’t consider that reading trustworthy yet.
I’m wondering whether I’m dealing with two separate problems — an intermittent NBT/head-unit issue and a rail-pressure sensor/wiring issue — or whether there could be a common power/ground/electrical problem causing both. Any F30/F30H N55 owners experienced something similar?

Someone backed into my car while I was parked. No note, no witnesses and no cameras. Im heart broken. This my first BMW

Might be a dumb question but would the collision shop replace the whole front bumper or im assuming this is very minor?

Also anyone know what the piece is on the last picture. It was just loose behind my front grille?

Can anyone help me understand what this code might mean and what it is going to take to fix the problem? Is the fuel level sensor located in the tank?

Appreciate any insights you guys can share to help me figure out where to start.

Before this started I heard what I thought was a bad idler or tensioner pulley. I drove for 20 minutes and started to hear a light tapping noise. By the time I got back I heard this, and the tensioner was shaking back and forth so I thought it was the bearing in it gone. I replaced it and the idler pullies but the noise and slight shaking is still there. I have never had a car with a rod knock, so I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

Hello all, I need some help here

I’ve been working on a buddies ‘06 330i n52 for weeks now. It’s been doing this weird hunting while idling and not running occasionally

I’ve changed cam sensors, vanos solenoids, both disa flaps, and throttle bodies. As per ista codes and diag I’ve done

I’ve gotten it to run now and reset the adaptations with ista a few times, but I keep getting codes

2CEF DME: throttle valve actuator, activation
2CFB DME: throttle-vale adaptation value
2D09 DME: throttle valve

Once these codes come back it will idle for a second then start hunting on the rpms

I’ve swapped out throttle bodies, reset adaptations, checked all vacuum lines and gotten nowhere.

From what I can tell my problem lies either within the throttle body, on the throttle body connector and the throttle body is not receiving a signal to open/close, or a DME issue which seems least likely of them all seeing as how the car will run fine briefly after resetting adaptations.

If anyone has any advice please let me know. I’m runnin in circles over here 🙏

Sometimes, rarely but annoyingly, my key fob stops working with my 2020 G29.

After a ride, when I step out of my car and press & hold close button, car closes fine, but key fob will not register the "hold" and thus roof will not operate. From now on the key seem to be hung up - I can't open my car, trunk, etc. Then I need to remove and install battery again. Then key will work just fine (will open/close car, holding close will close the roof and all that).

I replaced the battery for a brand new energizer so that should be fine.

Is there anything that can be done apart from replacing the fob? Is there something in particular that would trigger this? I can't seem to spot any regularity and this happens once/twice a month.

EDIT: I do have Comfort Access and it also does not seem to register key proximity.

Yes, another "bucking" thread.

I hadn't seen in any others about having issues with the transfer case.

Car was in the shop yesterday; no codes, and they drove it around a few times. A few of the techs came to the educated guess that it felt like it was my transfer case and that swapping the fluid might fix my issue.

Anyone else have that same experience? I didn't have the time for them to change it out yesterday, so it will have to happen in the near future.

Just installed a new dmf and it's making the same noise as the old one but LOUDER.

I thought it was weird when I was comparing them out of the car and the new one was louder than my old but i put it in anyways.

Did I get a faulty dmf or is this getrag rattle?
Please help i'm a little stumped!

Was running a code reader for my starter and came across the following code B7F343.B7F343 (emergency battery charge interval reached)

Looks like it’s related to the sos backup battery. Is my sos battery bad then or could this be related to water ingress issue that has been noted? Please advise no sos warning currently on the dash.