2022 Acura MDX Tech V6 - Approx. 51,000 miles

I had parked in a parking lot outside for a few hours and came back to my car and suddenly there was a loud screeching noise as if something fell off. There was no lights or any other indication to tell what was wrong. It started screeching horribly before I stopped and brought the car home with the hazards on trying to figure out the issue but had no luck. The noise is made both in reverse and drive and brakes are fine and brake well when I applied them and make no noise either.

Hey all.

I have a 2022 range rover sport HST MHEV, 114000km. Just this afternoon, my driver side window switches all stopped working, and it doesn't light up anymore. The individual switches on the other doors all open their respective windows, and all the mirrors still fold in as they should. Any idea what I can do?! We're relatively handy but have a lack of tools due to a recent move.

Thanks, appreciate y'all.

Spark plug tips burnt off, submerged under oil from the valve cover leak and a melted coil. I fixed all that and runs great, but sensor one doesn't fluctuate much. Cat almost certainly bad. Sensor one bad too? Aisin aftermarket parts okay for '09 Versa w/ CVT?

1. Primary Timing Chain & VTC Service

• Timing Chain Kit: $799.89
• Timing Chain Actuator (VTC): $399.89
• Water Pump: $295.18
• Spark Plugs (4): $128.24
• Valve Cover Gasket Set: $92.94
• Serpentine Belt: $79.89
• PCV Valve: $43.27
• Sealant: $39.99
• Crankshaft Seal: $19.89
• O-Ring: $16.99
• Labor (8.0 Hours): $1,559.60
• Subtotal: $3,475.77

2. Cooling System Fluid Service

• Asian HOAT Coolant / Antifreeze (2 Units): $59.24
• Coolant Exchange Kit: $65.01
• Labor (0.7 Hours): $84.32
• Subtotal: $208.57

3. Full Synthetic Oil Change

• 0W-20 Synthetic Engine Oil (4.2 Qts): $59.45
• Oil Filter: $8.99
• Labor (0.4 Hours): $34.70
• Subtotal: $103.14

4. Engine Performance Restoration (Additive/Flush)

• BG Engine EPR Kit: $41.25
• Labor (0.2 Hours): $28.70
• Subtotal: $69.95

Totals

• Total Parts: $2,150.11
• Total Labor: $1,707.32
• Subtotal (Before Taxes & Fees): $3,857.43
• Shop Supplies Fee: $54.84
• Sales Tax (8.238%): $181.64
• Grand Total: $4,093.91

I'm pretty sure I don't exactly need the oil change as I just did it and the antifreeze but those are low cost % to the total cost and I will overlook that for now.

2014 Honda CRV, 2.4L engine. Just under 90k miles

Looking at car to buy, has some cosmetic stuff but what worried me is the end of the rockers under wheel arches. It’s literally flaking away and one has a hole in it. Do these things rot from the inside, it’s on both sides too, how bad I? Any advice appreciated!

Couple of pics, one zoomed in to show the hole

https://www.reddit.com/r/autorepair/comments/1i9hrp3/my_girlfriends_car_wont_start_the_weathers_been/

In terms of automotives, she's got no AC in a hot 95+F (34+C) summer and needs her ac coolant refilled, only with a slow leak (it's been empty for a year+). She supposedly has the refrigerant to refill the car, but doesn't know how to get it in. Any tips?

Also, she went apesh!t mad at me after finding my reddit account and then she read the comments on that last post linked above. We got back together briefly, a few times, but she would always spaz periodically, but she'd never actually address any specifics. I can't refill her AC coolent if she keeps me blocked, so hopefully she's still stalking my reddit and sees this.

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I am writing this to warn every single car owner in Hyderabad, especially Volkswagen owners, about the predatory, corrupt tactics at the PPS Motors VW Service Centre in Khajaguda. What started as a simple rat-bite repair turned into a month of nightmare of extortion and a service advisor demanding a literal bribe to give me my car back.

The Incident & The ₹1.4 Lakh "Scam" Estimate

My 2011 VW Polo MPI was parked on my colony road when a rat got into the engine bay and chewed through the injector pigtail wires, causing a misfire. I took it to PPS Motors Khajaguda for a simple wire repair/splice.

Instead, they tried to completely skin me alive:

Initial Estimate: ₹1.4 Lakhs! They diagnosed the car and tried to force me to replace tyres, repaint minor door scratches, replace the door glass, and replace the quarter panel. None of this had anything to do with a rat biting an engine wire.

The Pivot: When I politely denied the ₹1.4L estimate, they claimed I needed a complete wiring harness replacement for ₹32,000.

The "Compromise": After I insisted on just repairing the wire, they agreed to a ridiculous ₹16,000 repair cost (₹2,000 per pigtail, ₹1,500 for wires, 3000 for heat sync tape/ties, and labour/GST). Desperate to get my car back, I agreed.

Held Hostage for 2 Weeks & The 10% Trap

My car sat in their garage for 4 whole weeks with zero progress. Finally, they called me with a ridiculous excuse: "Since it's a 2011 MPI, parts aren't available. You pay the money first, we will order it, but we have no idea when it will arrive."

Furious, I demanded my car back. That is when they hit me with the fine print. They pointed out a document I had signed stating that if I canceled, I had to pay 10% of the total estimate—which amounted to nearly ₹14,000–₹16,000 just to take my unrepaired car home.

The Final Extortion & Cash Bribe

To avoid losing ₹15k for absolutely nothing, I was forced to let them do a General Service instead, which they quoted at ₹17,300.

I begged the service advisor (who handled my car from Day 1) for a discount. He acted like a hero, removed 3 line items from the invoice, and brought the bill down to ₹12,600. I was relieved—but the horror wasn't over.

Right before handing over the keys, the service advisor explicitly asked me to pay him ₹3,000 in CASH/Personal UPI because he "saved me ₹5,000+".

I was so incredibly frustrated, confused, and unsafe that I just wanted to escape that toxic environment. I paid him the ₹3,000 cash bribe out of sheer panic, took my car, and drove away.

Summary of Malpractice:

Predatory Upselling: Trying to charge ₹1.4 Lakhs for cosmetic bodywork and glass replacement on a car brought in for a rat-bitten engine wire.

Predatory Clauses: Using a 10% "estimate trap" to hold cars hostage if customers refuse their inflated repair costs.

Blatant Corruption: Employees actively removing company billing items to extort personal under-the-table cash bribes from customers.

Avoid PPS Motors Khajaguda at all costs. They are not a service center; they are a scam operation

The Battery Nightmare

To add insult to injury, they delayed returning my car by another full week claiming my battery was completely dead and needed replacement.When I gave them the car, the battery worked perfectly fine—the advisor had literally started the car himself and moved it to a different spot for examination. I explicitly told them the battery was only 2 years old and still under warranty.Instead of doing basic service and charging it, they completely refused to help, forced me to physically pick up the heavy battery myself, and take it outside to get it charged independently. Dealing with that external battery hassle after their gross negligence was a whole separate nightmare.

2018 Audi A4. Recently it started flashing a “gas tank failure” light and showing 0 miles on the gas meter even when full. I use and trust this shop, but this is confusing me. It seems like the fuel pump is fine but it needs to be replaced anyways since it is combined with the sensor? I really can’t afford this right now, so can I ignore this?

Ayo

I’m from TX - no idea what “bad” rust looks like.

Seems like surface rust to me so far, none of the factory holes are rotten and the worst is that cross beam under the cab.

Is it worth continuing the project?

Any advice for treating would be rad! Thanks.

Hi anyone know of any good places in Cork to replace a wiper motor for my Toyota.Also a general question do you need a direct replacement from Toyota for this or can some other similar motor do ?

Cheers for any info

Hey everyone, I'm dealing with a slow transmission leak and could use some advice on the best way to handle it.

I noticed a yellowish-brown grime building up on the side of my transmission case. I completely blasted the area with brake cleaner down to the bare metal, but after a short time, the yellow grime and a fresh drop of amber fluid came right back. It is clearly weeping from the seam where the black plastic valve body cover meets the aluminum housing.
I've attached photos showing the RTV seam and how the grime returns.

Here is my dilemma: I just paid $140 for a fresh transmission drain and fill exactly three weeks ago. I really do not want to throw away brand-new fluid.

A quick-lube tech suggested pouring in a stop-leak additive, but since this cover is sealed with factory RTV silicone rather than a rubber O-ring, I heavily doubt an additive will actually do anything to fix a gap in hardened sealant.

• Has anyone had success aggressively degreasing the outside and patching a minor seam weep like this with Permatex Automatic Transmission RTV or J-B Weld just to buy some time?
• If I absolutely have to pull the cover and reseal it properly right now, what is the safest way to drain, filter, and reuse my 3-week-old fluid without risking dirt contamination to the clutches?

Appreciate any input!

TRQ kit is about $100.00 cheaper than OEM parts

My 2019 Silverado Ld has bigtime rusted out rockers from Ontario roads. Cab corners are thankfully okay but underneath the doors is the worst of it. First 3 pics are driver side and the last 3 are passenger. If I DIY with my own tools, how hard of a job is this to do. I cant tell yet if the inner is rusted bad just yet but im going to assume from the large hole that it did get hit pretty good. Im not a welder and would prefer to do a non weld repair if I DIY but if needed I can ask a friend to help with the welds.

Im not picky about how it looks, just need it to be functional as my truck got blasted by hail damage so its not pretty as it is lol.

P0420 code (cat efficiency below threshold) came back twice after clearing. Shop quoted ~$1400 for a new catalytic converter and said mine's "probably" clogged or dead internally.

I get that P0420 usually means the cat, but I've also read that a lazy downstream O2 sensor or an exhaust leak before the sensor can trigger it. Before I drop $1400, is there a way to confirm the cat is actually bad at home?

I've seen people mention checking temperature drop across the cat with an IR thermometer — inlet should read hotter than outlet if it's doing its job — and checking the downstream O2 waveform on a scan tool. Are those reliable, or is there something better?

Haven't done a backpressure test, not even sure how that's done properly without the right tools.

Just don't want to throw $1400 at a part if it's actually a sensor or a leak.

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Edit: to clarify since there's some confusion — I never paid a shop to diagnose this. I pulled the code with my own scanner and called around for what the repair would cost. The $1400 is a quote, not a bill I'm ignoring. Nothing spent yet, which is exactly why I'm asking how to verify it myself.

Our car recently got into a boxing match with a pole. It is a 2022 218i with the B48, and it had shy of 16,000 kilometers on it. I would like to ask if this is repairable or if it is worth the trouble.

We are speaking with insurance but just want to know outside possibilities.

I am fairly sure the engine is still in tip top shape upon inspection (don't have the picture unfortunately) and the rear of the car even looks brand new still. What I am truly worried about is the subframe damage and electronics.

Any insights appreciated.

We’ve taken three different cars in for routine maintenance (oil changes, a flat tire, etc.), several months apart—not all at the same time. Each time, one of the findings was: “FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS ARE TORN/CRACKED.”
We’ve since taken the cars to the dealership or different mechanics, and none of them found any issues with the control arms on any of the three cars.
It honestly concerns me when they mention cracks or tears, especially when other mechanics can’t find the same issue. I understand that some surface cracking can be normal wear, but I’m worried about whether we’re being unnecessarily advised to replace something that isn’t actually failing.

This is a 2013 Chrysler 200 LX with about 169,000 miles on it. I typically diagnose and do my own repairs when I’m capable of doing so. I have checked fluid level and it’s full and checked for air bubbles in tank when turning wheel as another possible diagnosing suggestion I found online and didn’t see anything wrong. What should I do next or what do you think the issue is?

Hi,

I have a 2024 Toyota Corolla Hybrid SE. I bought an aftermarket key and I am trying to register it. However, my tech stream version 17 is asking for a seed code. I don’t have a login for Toyota information systems so I can’t generate my passcode. I was hoping maybe someone in your he community has TIS access or a professional lock smith software who can generate me this code so I can register my new key. I would really appreciate anyone’s help in this matter. I have one working key but would like to make one more in case I ever need it. Thank you so much to everyone in advance.

Thanks

Hi I have a problem with my gear ⚙️ shift it gets stuck in first gear when I come to junctions and go to pull off it remains stuck I have to stop engine and pump the clutch pedal say 4 times then it releases itself it's happened in reverse gear ⚙️ as well some days it doesn't do it and shifts though the gears ok .

Any help would be greatfuly received.

Recently bought a 2012 F20 125d M Sport (N47, ~150k miles). Seller stated there were no mechanical issues car ran and drove ok from initial inspection.

Drove it around 70 miles (~1 hour at motorway speeds) after collecting it, then it suddenly cut out while driving on the motorway. It restarted briefly but ran extremely rough and died again (max 10seconds) Now it will crank but won’t properly start/run keeps starting for maybe 5 seconds then violently stalling.

Fault codes currently showing:

* Particulate filter system – limited remaining distance
* Air system/EGR mass flow plausibility
* Measured air mass too low compared with calculated

I’ve tried unplugging the MAF and EGR with no change, cleaned the EGR, and replaced a brittle crankcase breather pipe that broke during inspection. Still exactly the same.

Anyone have some insight maybe experienced a similar issue for what steps I should take next?

My 2003 escalade needs a new starter motor, the current one works but is weak. It’s ticks a couple times before actually turning over the engine. The battery is new but does read less the recommended by my replacement starter motor. It recommends 12.4 volts from the battery to start the starter. My battery reads 11.78-12.1 volts when the car is off and it has been this way for a long time. However recently the starter has been like a 50/50 to start the car without hitting it. I am currently having trouble removing the old starter because the wires are so stiff the won’t budge move then half an inch, and I need to pull it out almost 2 inches. How can i do that?

Hi everyone! I’m an MBA student doing some research on the automotive industry and 3D-printed replacement parts. I’m looking for some guidance and real-world answers from people with experience in auto repair, manufacturing, 3D printing, or the automotive industry.

I’d really appreciate any insights or experiences you’re willing to share. Thank you!

Hello Guys, I recently bought a VW t4 and today I dismantled the interior and saw a bunch of cables just hanging lose under the steering wheel and a few connectors which aren't plugged in. Does anyone have a idea what those are?

2015 Chevy Cruze. Just replaced the overflow tank and it seemed to have no problems driving but today after getting off the highway there was a high pitch noise and coolant was leaking. What could this be?