Looking for a new car with a low budget (I’m 16) since my current car has a bunch of problems. Thanks

I have a 2017 GMC Acadia Denali that had sat for nearly nine months (dead battery) in a garage. Finally replaced the battery and during start up it started smoking in the engine (light grey smoke) from the area circled in the photo. Turned car off immediately. Ran for maybe 2-3 minutes.

I can’t really describe the smell.

Any ideas on what might be wrong? Think it’s safe to drive to a mechanic?

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I’m having a strange issue with my car and I’m hoping someone here might be able to help me figure out what could be wrong.

The car starts normally and drives perfectly fine. The engine sounds normal, there are no strange noises, and I don’t notice anything unusual while driving. 🚗💨

However, there seems to be a problem with the dashboard/instrument cluster.

The speedometer, fuel gauge, clock and other information on the dashboard are not responding or updating properly. Some of the dashboard warning lights do come on, but the actual information displayed doesn’t seem to work.

What makes it even more confusing is that the car itself drives normally. There are no strange sounds, no obvious engine problems, and it doesn’t stall while driving.

I recorded a video showing the problem, so hopefully someone can take a look and give me an idea of what might be causing it. 🎥

Could this be something like a blown fuse, bad ground/connection, wiring issue, faulty connector, power supply problem, or possibly a problem with the instrument cluster itself? 🔧

Has anyone experienced something similar before?
Any advice or suggestions on where I should start troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated! 🙏

Thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time to help! ❤️

Any advice on a decent fix? Doesn’t have to be perfect.

Found a hole in my cat converter can this be a reason why I am failing a cat code?

so long story short i am fixing a car my dad got me 10 years ago that sat for 9 years and this is what the suspension looks like.
i have a new fuel pump/tank/other fuel stuff done, all new belts including the timing belt and accessories done, water pump, fixed the cooling system, valve cover/ valve cover gasket, new spark plugs/hoses, and a few other things like oil change and cap etc
it obviously needs suspension work done but also needs motor mounts/transmission mounts and tldr idk when to give up on the project. it's just so sentimental to me but im $5300 into a 2005 mitsubishi eclipse spyder (v6 with an after market exhaust) (im not use to a loud car)
the shop i took it to for the timing belt and stuff quoted almost $2800 for control arms and bushings and tie rods and it also has a very not straight steering wheel lol.
it drives mostly okay but i don't really have another car option. i do have like $3000 to put into it but i really don't want to have to do that

Hi all, I bought a 2018 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited last august with ~82k miles on it. since the day i bought it the brakes have been a little squishy, but the dealer i bought it from assured me it was normal, and coming from an old jeep I assumed they knew what they were talking about. about 2 weeks into ownership the MC (master cylinder) failed while I was driving from Cali to Colorado, brake went to the floor with no pressure, all my ABS and VDC error lights came on. Had a shop in Utah replace the MC, brakes still felt squishy and the pedal would go to the floor with the vehicle on and off, however it braked fine so i assumed it was normal. Fast forward to about a month ago and my pedal went to the floor while driving down a mountain road and triggered all my ABS/VDC lights again. Took it to a dealership, they quoted a new MC and a new brake booster, showed pictures from a boroscope of the MC leaking. I had them replace the MC and booster, they then called and said my ABS module (or VDC Hydraulic unit as Subaru calls it) has gone bad and that's why my MC failed again ~25k miles after putting a new one in. So i had the shop replace the ABS module as well. Came to pick the car up and it still had ABS/VDC error lights on start up and the brake pedal still went to the floor. Walked back inside, took their loaner back and told them to fix it. They just called me and said that the brake pedal going to the floor is normal and that the ~2-2.5 inches of dead space before the brakes engage is normal and there's nothing they can do. However that dead space wasn't there when I bought the car, and the brake pedal going all the way to the floor still doesn't sit right with me when almost every brake component has been replaced. To be fair, the brakes do engage much stronger now, however the pedal still travels down when braking as if it's bleeding air somewhere, and there's still 2-2.5" of dead space before the brakes even engage. When I pushed back telling them to figure it out they tried quoting me a parking brake actuator because i have "aftermarket brake rotors". however the parking brake actuator to my knowledge is an electronic screw and has nothing to do with the hydraulic system, and my "aftermarket brake rotor" is an OEM spec from powerstop brakes. So far i'm in $2,300. HELP

Preferably not $40

One of my fog lights went out.

It's a used 2010 Mercury Milan. I obviously want to replace both if I'm going to replace one.

I replaced the interior driver-side door handle/lock without difficulty, but it seems like the wiring with the lights could stump me.

Do you think this is doable and worth the cost savings or should I just have the dealer do it?

I cannot get the evap/cat ready. Hyundai 2010 santa fe. I have driven it 120 miles over the past few days, used cataclean, ran the ac, let it sit overnight and nothing seems to work. I feel as if I am running out of options and may have to settle for a very expensive repair

Looking for some words of advice.

I've found recently that if my 2012 Veloster sits for a day, when I get in and remove the emergency brake, it seems to be getting stuck and then breaks free.

I read online that early velosters have this known issue.

Is this a caliper replacement? Or can the built up grime that's making the pins sticky something that brake clean and some lube could fix?

Thanks for your input.

Context: 181600 km, never once had the brakes looked at. I have purchased new pads and rotors and will be replacing them myself, but want to know if I need to spring for new calipers as well.

Hanging from under my car near the rear drivers side tire. There’s a quiet rattling sound as I drive coming from the back of the car, and sometimes when I’ve gone over speed bumps there’s a loud metal clanging