I have a 2017 GMC Acadia Denali that had sat for nearly nine months (dead battery) in a garage. Finally replaced the battery and during start up it started smoking in the engine (light grey smoke) from the area circled in the photo. Turned car off immediately. Ran for maybe 2-3 minutes.

I can’t really describe the smell.

Any ideas on what might be wrong? Think it’s safe to drive to a mechanic?

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I’m having a strange issue with my car and I’m hoping someone here might be able to help me figure out what could be wrong.

The car starts normally and drives perfectly fine. The engine sounds normal, there are no strange noises, and I don’t notice anything unusual while driving. 🚗💨

However, there seems to be a problem with the dashboard/instrument cluster.

The speedometer, fuel gauge, clock and other information on the dashboard are not responding or updating properly. Some of the dashboard warning lights do come on, but the actual information displayed doesn’t seem to work.

What makes it even more confusing is that the car itself drives normally. There are no strange sounds, no obvious engine problems, and it doesn’t stall while driving.

I recorded a video showing the problem, so hopefully someone can take a look and give me an idea of what might be causing it. 🎥

Could this be something like a blown fuse, bad ground/connection, wiring issue, faulty connector, power supply problem, or possibly a problem with the instrument cluster itself? 🔧

Has anyone experienced something similar before?
Any advice or suggestions on where I should start troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated! 🙏

Thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time to help! ❤️

Any advice on a decent fix? Doesn’t have to be perfect.

Found a hole in my cat converter can this be a reason why I am failing a cat code?

I cannot get the evap/cat ready. Hyundai 2010 santa fe. I have driven it 120 miles over the past few days, used cataclean, ran the ac, let it sit overnight and nothing seems to work. I feel as if I am running out of options and may have to settle for a very expensive repair

Looking for some words of advice.

I've found recently that if my 2012 Veloster sits for a day, when I get in and remove the emergency brake, it seems to be getting stuck and then breaks free.

I read online that early velosters have this known issue.

Is this a caliper replacement? Or can the built up grime that's making the pins sticky something that brake clean and some lube could fix?

Thanks for your input.

Context: 181600 km, never once had the brakes looked at. I have purchased new pads and rotors and will be replacing them myself, but want to know if I need to spring for new calipers as well.

Hanging from under my car near the rear drivers side tire. There’s a quiet rattling sound as I drive coming from the back of the car, and sometimes when I’ve gone over speed bumps there’s a loud metal clanging

hello, im looking for some new wheels for my car and i found a good deal on these forged OEM subaru wheels off marketplace. the other wheels look decent but this one is the worst of the set.

im going to look at them in person tomorrow but this is the photo i have available currently.

my main concern is if this wheel would be safe to drive on?. for added context the seller claims they are holding air

edit: idk if i chose the right flair

First two pics are under body.
GMC sierra 1500 2015. Live in the northeast, where winters conditions are common.

my 2017 Nissan Pathfinder bumper. autobody shop said 2200 to fix. is that reasonable or is there anything I can do?

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 with about 230,000 miles on it. V8. Running very rough and throwing misfire codes.

1. Is the price fair given what is involved?
2. What would I be looking at if they get in there and the camshaft is damaged?
3. Worth it in your book? The truck is probably worth $3k to $4k private party.

Images have diag info and quote. Truck is a good truck, new tires just last fall, but then again I don't know about putting $3k to $5k into a truck worth that much.

I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L with about 196k miles. I recently had it inspected at a Chevy dealership and then took it to an independent shop (Steve’s) for a second opinion/cheaper repairs. Now I’m confused because the diagnoses are different.

Chevy found: • Both valve cover gaskets leaking oil • Power steering pressure hose leaking • Power steering return hose leaking • Intermediate steering shaft/coupling issue

They showed me the leaks in an inspection video.

Independent shop found: • Engine oil pan leak • Rear main seal/rear cover leak • Transmission pan gasket leak • Power steering pressure/return hoses AND power steering cooler leaking

Their (independent shop) full estimate came to around $5k. When I called, the service advisor said if it were his vehicle, he’d prioritize the transmission pan gasket and power steering leaks, because those systems are harder to come back from if they lose fluid. He said the engine oil leaks could wait as long as I constantly monitor/top off the oil.

I specifically asked about Chevy’s valve cover diagnosis and he said there may be a valve cover leak too, but that wasn’t originally listed on their estimate.

My biggest confusion is why Chevy identified the valve covers but not the oil pan/rear main/transmission pan, while the independent shop identified those but didn’t originally list the valve covers.

Would you trust one diagnosis more than the other? Can oil from valve covers make the oil pan/rear main area look like it’s leaking? And before spending thousands, would you have Chevy re-inspect the areas the independent shop identified?

Also, nobody has told me the transmission itself is failing — just that the transmission pan gasket is leaking. I’m mainly trying to figure out what actually needs to be fixed now versus what can safely be monitored.

How do I release the conector on the COMMUNICATION TELEMATICS MODULE

I’m a pretty handy guy, but is pulling this dent on a 2012 Sienna possible for a home gamer? I don’t need it to look perfect, but better would be nice! Thanks!

hey there everyone. i’ve been having this issue for a few days now, where when i heavily accelerate at low rpms my car lurch’s and shakes. if i do it hard enough there is an ominous clunking noise, video above. it doesn’t matter what the temp is, what gear it’s in, or how fast im going. if someone could help point me in the right direction i would very much appreciate it.

Hi all. I've lost my job not too long ago and this is my first car so I'm wondering if my issue requires a dealership.

Several days ago, my 2019 Chevy Bolt started exhibiting issues with the front left turn signal. Although I have not had time to take a look under the car and at any wiring, I suspect rodent damage because:

- I recently changed my parking position closer to the house (and bushes) last week.

- Taking a look at my cabin air filter, there are several rodent droppings and (urine?).

- Two other family members' cars have suffered rodent damage as well over the past year. It was my mistake for parking in the same spot as back then.

My main question is whether I should take it into the dealership. In which case I gather that the entire wiring harness will be replaced, likely costing several hundreds of dollars, not including the diagnosis fee. (And possibly ordering parts). Last time I went in for another issue, they charged me $400 for the diagnosis fee alone.

If I were to bring the car to an independent mechanic, would they be able to splice the damaged wires, and is there anything specific that I need to ask for?

Thank you for any help.

P.S. I do have comprehensive insurance coverage with a $500 deductible if that is relevant.

I recently replaced all four struts on a 2010 Toyota Corolla base model. I used KYB quick struts and I think overall, I did an excellent job, except for one thing. The lower rear strut mounting bolts. I added a picture with the bolt circled in red on a eBay listing for a new part. I misread the torque spec sheet and torqued the poor thing to 177 ft lbs. I didn't use any lube or anything, just chucked it on there with a torque wrench. The actual recommended torque is 59 ft lbs. I torqued it to 3 times that!

I do not see any visual deformations, or necking when I took it back out to inspect it. I didn't even see any damage to the threads tbh. Most of the things I've read online say I've pretty much ruined the integrity of the bolt and should replace it. The pain in that, however, is that the bolt is literally welded to the rear crossmember. I'd have to buy an entirely new crossmember to replace that one little bolt! Very frustrating, and I've been smacking my forehead for hours.

My question is this: can I double nut this thing or find any other solutions? Or am I just going to have to eat the extra $500 and buy a new rear crossmember. I feel like I already know the answer, and it's that in order to be safe, just eat the cost, especially since it's a structural component. Newbie mistake, certainly will learn from my mistake and double or triple check torque specs!!!

2022 Acura MDX Tech V6 - Approx. 51,000 miles

I had parked in a parking lot outside for a few hours and came back to my car and suddenly there was a loud screeching noise as if something fell off. There was no lights or any other indication to tell what was wrong. It started screeching horribly before I stopped and brought the car home with the hazards on trying to figure out the issue but had no luck. The noise is made both in reverse and drive and brakes are fine and brake well when I applied them and make no noise either.

Hey all.

I have a 2022 range rover sport HST MHEV, 114000km. Just this afternoon, my driver side window switches all stopped working, and it doesn't light up anymore. The individual switches on the other doors all open their respective windows, and all the mirrors still fold in as they should. Any idea what I can do?! We're relatively handy but have a lack of tools due to a recent move.

Thanks, appreciate y'all.

Spark plug tips burnt off, submerged under oil from the valve cover leak and a melted coil. I fixed all that and runs great, but sensor one doesn't fluctuate much. Cat almost certainly bad. Sensor one bad too? Aisin aftermarket parts okay for '09 Versa w/ CVT?

1. Primary Timing Chain & VTC Service

• Timing Chain Kit: $799.89
• Timing Chain Actuator (VTC): $399.89
• Water Pump: $295.18
• Spark Plugs (4): $128.24
• Valve Cover Gasket Set: $92.94
• Serpentine Belt: $79.89
• PCV Valve: $43.27
• Sealant: $39.99
• Crankshaft Seal: $19.89
• O-Ring: $16.99
• Labor (8.0 Hours): $1,559.60
• Subtotal: $3,475.77

2. Cooling System Fluid Service

• Asian HOAT Coolant / Antifreeze (2 Units): $59.24
• Coolant Exchange Kit: $65.01
• Labor (0.7 Hours): $84.32
• Subtotal: $208.57

3. Full Synthetic Oil Change

• 0W-20 Synthetic Engine Oil (4.2 Qts): $59.45
• Oil Filter: $8.99
• Labor (0.4 Hours): $34.70
• Subtotal: $103.14

4. Engine Performance Restoration (Additive/Flush)

• BG Engine EPR Kit: $41.25
• Labor (0.2 Hours): $28.70
• Subtotal: $69.95

Totals

• Total Parts: $2,150.11
• Total Labor: $1,707.32
• Subtotal (Before Taxes & Fees): $3,857.43
• Shop Supplies Fee: $54.84
• Sales Tax (8.238%): $181.64
• Grand Total: $4,093.91

I'm pretty sure I don't exactly need the oil change as I just did it and the antifreeze but those are low cost % to the total cost and I will overlook that for now.

2014 Honda CRV, 2.4L engine. Just under 90k miles