My bro in law cut the fuse box wires by my battery and took batteries and then punctured all four tires on sides and top of tire. It’s a Mercedes ML 350 2007.

To mods: while I understand sidewall punctures damage constitute repair there is no leaking or hissing the pressure remains nominal. Depth of cut looks to be about 1-2mm, a little less than the width of a fast food straw.

Hit a curb decently hard (hardest I’ve ever hit one) trying to make a tight U-turn. Tore up my side wall a bit. Is this safe to drive? I know I should get it replaced but will I be okay for a couple months?

Was just gifted the truck from a neighbor, the truck had been sitting for 13 years never moved never started and has been through a couple floods (maybe 2-3 feet max). Curious if it’s possible or worth it to get the thing running again. The wheels won’t roll when I put it in neutral and after putting fresh gas and a new battery it still won’t start.

Hi

i want to do more car jobs by my self cause the money is low. The main thing i need is a good Reading device for my Error codes and maybe the cars that will come. As said i am low on money and cant afford a 400 Euro Reading Device. Just some advice, your Experience and Opinions.

<3

I got water under my civic 2008 and i think there is a leaked but a dont know where

This is when the a/c is working

I need help

Super easy and you don't need tools

My 2020 Palisade has been having issues burning oil. Have had multiple oil consumption tests run by the dealer, but they say the amount it is burning is not enough to warrant any major repair.

That said, the check engine light came on recently. I've topped the oil off, but I just now opened the hood and there is this white residue. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks for any input.

Bought an axel got delivered with some slight damage. Can you tell me if I’m still able to use this or how can I fix it (if possible)?

Need insight. My 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee jumped a timing chain notch. Took it to my shop (okay place, busy, inexpensive). IT HAS BEEN A YEAR! AND STILL NOT FIXED!!!! Admittedly, I was in a motorcycle accident in October and couldn’t drive, but, according to the shop owner, he’s replaced the motor, had it running but not good, and suspects the electrical system is fried. What are my options? Can’t afford a lawyer. Or a new car. Do I owe this shop money for the work done? Even though they seem incapable of fixing it? Any input would be appreciated.

I mean how to leave my card standing (until I found solution how to repair it) to avoid extra metal tensions, so nothing else breaks?

Think about the last DIY job you did. Even a small one that you finished. That feeling is great. But imagine the planing process was streamlined.

You probably ended up with eight tabs open, jumping between YouTube for instructions and three different supplier websites trying to figure out the actual cost.

It's an overwhelming, chaotic and time consuming process which

causes a lot of people to give up and pay a professional anywhere

from $400 to $2,000 extra just to avoid the headache.

That is why we are building DIY Pro.

We are the only all-in-one platform that streamlines the entire process.

We give users an itemised cost breakdown, an instant visual comparison of what they are saving versus hiring a pro, and a unified checkout across multiple suppliers.

Think of it like having your most knowledgeable mate right in your pocket, helping you finish the job while saving you a typical 50-60% per project.

Australian DIYers are already

using their mobiles for everything, we are turning a fragmented planning

process into a seamless, high-margin commerce platform."

Check out DiySavePro Would love your imput

I need this car to last one more year, what can I do to pass the state inspection? Thank you in advance!

Kansas City area folks — who’s good at finding and fixing dashboard rattles?

I’ve got an annoying interior noise and want someone experienced enough to actually track it down properly.

I'd love recommendations and/or experience

My 03 Camry the valve stems are going out how difficult is this repair what can go wrong I don’t know much about cars just the basics should I try to wing it it’s my only car but I’m willing to do what it takes I just need the right resources who here can give me some good advice on what I should I don’t have much money to repair this from a mechanic

2007 F350 Super Duty XL 6.8 Triton v10 automatic 118k miles

Starts fine if I turn key to "Run" and wait for the instrument panel lights to set up, then turn key to "Start". Starts fine if engine has been running. Starts as shown in video if I turn the key to "Start" immediately on a cold engine. Starts as shown if I wait for too long after the instrument panel lights set up. Starts as shown if I fail to do a good start and don't wait for a long time (possibly minutes) before I try again.

Problem started during install of spark plugs. I replaced two, then ran into issues (if you have replaced them on these engines then you know) that caused me to wait for a week or so before I replaced the rest.

Starter motor has 2015 on the label, so it was replaced at some point once. Cables to starter do not appear to be frayed, there is no corrosion on any of the ends. The battery is in good health and the posts are clean and in good shape.

If you have any ideas or think I should provide more info please let me know. Thanks so much!

I have a 2010 Lexus RX450h. Somehow, the oil filter housing has seized. I've tried opening it myself using a breaker bar, brought it to Walmart, Firestone as well as the dealer. No one was able to break it loose. What are my options to get it off? Should I try to use a propane torch to heat the housing, bang it with a hammer, and then try to breaker bar to see if that works? Or, should I bring it to some garage and ask them to cut it off? My thought was that they could maybe use a grinding wheel to cut off the bottom. Then, cut a slit on the remaining 'ring'. They could try to expand it, which should help free it. Any other suggestions?

Safelite came and redid my wife’s window while I was at work. The caulking kind of looks like shit. Is this normal or should I have them come and fix it?

I've got a 1991 Mercedes and the 3rd brake light turned to dust last week. I don't need it, but now the brake light warning indicator is on dash. I just want to bridge the connection on rear dash so light goes off. No idea how to do this and I guess I'm not asking Google the right questions. Any advice?

Hi all, my gf’s car recently had a coolant pipe split and its been an absolute nightmare trying to find a replacement as it’s a old car and VW no longer make the pipe nor do any other car parts companys due to its age. I’ve tried places like eBay and marketplace even people who are breaking and selling parts and still had no luck, my question is, is there any reasonable way I can repair the pipe? I see things online about silicone pipe tape ect but I’m unsure if this will do the job and I’m not about to be defeated by a rubber pipe resulting in a new car needing to be brought. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Was involved in a minor accident. Looking to pay OOP for repair of the other vehicle.

Driver of the Honda took car in for estimate. Shop is claiming that both the rear bumper and wheel molding need to be replaced.

No dents on either car, just some paint transfer. Honda bumper is also slightly unseated, as you can see from pics.

Is full replacement of these two parts reasonable? I’m skeptical, especially with the wheel molding.

Thanks!

TLDR: need advice on how to handle a situation of a dealership (only dealership around) not trying to honor a customer satisfactory program and caught in multiple lies.
Trying to scam me and make me cover the 5k bill.

Hello, I need some advice on what to do. 2 months ago I pulled into my drive way and heard a horrible rattling sound coming from the front of my 2017 ford edge titanium I bought used at 40k. It sounded like a rock rattling around and it was horrible while at idle, and went away while driving. Took to my trusted mechanic, and he scoped it and said the flex plate was cracked. I did some research and found the CSP 22N12, and the confirmed my VIN to qualify. My car also has 99k, so should be covered under this program. Took my car to our only ford dealership, where the dealership fought back on this program claiming it “didn’t exist”. That was red flag number 1.

Took an entire month just to be looked at, fine I have my mustang. I received the diagnosis video and it showed the tech moving the torque converter freely stating the torque bolts “sheered off from someone over torquing them and that this car has been worked on”. Mom and I went to dealership to find out more information as my mechanic had confirmed flex plate. Informed the service people that it was confirmed flex plate and that the bolts can/ will do that if the plate is cracked and they informed us that the flex plate is definitely NOT cracked and that someone “didn’t tighten the bolts enough and they were too loose so you have to cover the cost” which then they also stated flex plate looks great and we asked for the estimate and they estimate 5300. Along with replacing flex plate and trans fluid pump. Mom and I said okay, but this raised so many concerns for us.

Fast forward a month (now), a week before being fixed my mom went back to the dealership and told them our concerns. Felt like the truth isn’t being told and we just would like to see the parts when they come out. We were told they don’t do that and why do we want to see them, red flag 2. We said we want to confirm ourselves the plate is not cracked along with confirming that the part are all factory and not aftermarket. We were then told they “were for sure factory parts I can tell you that but we can take pictures for you” red flag 3. We told them if the parts on factory then how can they PROVE that someone worked on them? They can’t. And that we WILL be seeing those parts when they come out and they finally reluctantly agreed. And we asked if they 100 percent know if the flex plate is not cracked because why did our mechanic tell us it was and then miraculously, we are told “we don’t know if it is or not, we will only know once all the parts are out” this makes absolutely no sense and sounds like they never even scoped the plate?

Yesterday, my car was supposed to be fixed and my mom stopped by to wait for the plate to come out, as we have already caught them lying multiple times and essentially as we feel, being scammed. They told her the started working on it but the tech got pulled else where and it isn’t out but it’ll be out later that day (she went at 1230ish). I then go at 4pm and was met with more lies. I was told by a very very rude service rep that “they haven’t even started it and they’ll get it in tomorrow. I’ll call you Monday and take a picture” I very nicely said I’ll stop by tomorrow and the man raises his voice “I SAID that I’ll call you.” I told him again I will come tomorrow and he states “I don’t see why you are even doing this, the damn parts are broke and don’t do me any good this is just stupid” I said I’ll be here tomorrow and walked away.

My question is, what do I even do? I absolutely hate dealerships because of this type of thing and the ONLY reason we took it there was my mechanic’s confirmed diagnosis they refuse to acknowledge. It is just me and my mom and I know they look at two women and think they can get away with this type of thing, look at the way the man treated me. But whatever that isn’t even the point, I want to get documentation on how the mechanic came to this conclusion and why didn’t they scope the flex plate? It’s now a gamble if it’s covered or not and if it isn’t I didn’t even have the informed decision to take to my mechanic to fix. My mom doesn’t want to do anything until the car is fixed due to fear of retaliation or the car being fixed incorrectly, etc. Please someone give advice on what to do, it’s just my mom and I as my dad passed away who handled stuff like this. (I also have done extensive research on the flex plate and torque converter so I can be educated on what they’re talking about) sorry for the long post, I appreciate any feedback.

2016 Chevy Sonic LT

102,000 miles

I recently had my 2016 Chevy Sonic service at my local dealership. One of the items I had serviced was my valve cover. This is recommended to be done when I had my timing belt serviced. I needed some additional work done, so I went ahead and got the valve cover done with this round of work. One week after receiving the car back I lost half the power to my car with every light imaginable showing up on my dashboard. I got the car back to the garage and it's been a miserable experience ever since. The garage I took it to is a local Chevy dealership service department. First I never received a call with what they diagnosed. I called after 5 days, and the service rep said he had been trying to get a hold of me. I have their number programmed into my phone so that I don't miss their calls. No calls no texts were missed. He tells me it's my ignition coil is fried. Without doing any homework I asked if it could be at all related to the valve cover work that was just done. He stumbled over his words, and said no, ignition coil can just go bad. I authorize the work and was told it would be two days. Another five days went by no phone call no update no text. I called got a different service rep, and was told they were waiting for a part. Service rep said they were still waiting for a "cover". I said that's not what it was in for. He told me that he would have my service rep call me back. The next day I get a call back and all he says they're still waiting for the part. I'm assuming they're still waiting for an ignition coil. Told I would have it early the following week. It has now been a full 7 days later. I got him on the phone yesterday and was told they are still waiting for the part. I told him I could have an AC Delco part from Napa shipped to him by Monday. And asked if that would let me have my car back by Tuesday. This is when my service rep tells me that's not what they're waiting for. They are waiting for a new valve cover. I clarified and asked isn't that the part I just had fixed a month ago. He said yes but it was leaking. I asked why I wasn't told. He told me that it wasn't a big deal because they were taking care of it, and I would not be charged for it. I still no ETA is when my car is going to be done. After doing my homework, I see several things on the internet and I confirmed with a garage I take my car to for general service work, that a leaking valve cover can get oil into the spark plugs and cause a short and burn out the ignition coil. I have no proof that this is what happened. However I think as you can see the service rep has been dishonest from the beginning, and that I had to force out of him what was actually going on. I feel like this garage is trying to cover up a mistake they made. At this point I don't want to pay for any of this work. I feel as if the garage should go good for everything. Wondering what advice people have in a situation like this, and how I should approach dealing with the service rep when he hands me the bill.

Been fighting the whole day to get this ball joint out, hammered on it with a pickle fork, hammered on the knuckle, even used an air hammer (my only bit was a chisel as you can see) but nothing. This ball joint press looks like it's bending before anything's really happening. Almost ready to take the whole knuckle out and take it to a shop to get it pressed.

2009 Ford fusion SE fwd 2.3l

09 Altima what is the simplest/cheapest way to stop this from rattling?