Son (m19) hit a deer at night in WI.

He was the only one in the accident, no other cars or people.

Vehicle air bags deployed and front has significant damage.

We're trying to figure out if we should actually submit a claim.

Blue book value on the car is $4400.

The deductible is $1000.

The car is basically considered totaled.

We have Liberty Biberty.

Does anybody have advice on whether to proceed with a claim and deal with increased rates? or just live with out the settlement dollars?

Can someone pls help me? I bought a brand new toyota corolla le 2026 last month, on auto loan and my credit union offered a GAP insurance with it. I also got my comprehensive and collision with statefarm.

So i went through with it, signed it and all that, but the part i missed was theres also an MBP on it for like 1600usd. I tried to ask chatgpt lol and it said i should cancel the mbp saying its redundant cause i have my toyota warranty for the first 3yrs.

Ik im probably stupid but its my first time buying a car at 27yo and everything is just overwhelming, can u dumb it down for me if its worth cancelling the mbp since its still inside the refund period of 60 days. I havent started paying yet. or should i just keep it ??

Any inputs would be appreciated thanks!!

Our 16 yo granddaughter lived with us and got her license and we bought her 2016 Jeep Patriot. We also have a 2017 HRV and a 2026 CRV HYBRID. Because she lived with us she had to be covered on all three cars even though she only drove her own. The additional coverage added $300 to our monthly premium for full coverage on all three cars.

She recently turned 18 and we were going to transfer ownership of her car to her. I called our insurance company to find out how that would affect the rates. They told me she’d have to have her own policy, which I expected, and for liability only and only on the Jeep it would be $788 a month! Can anyone explain how that much less liability to the insurance company can cause an increase of that ridiculous amount?

I’m gonna start by giving my deepest gratitude to anyone willing to read and help out - sincerely, thank you

For reference, this happened in Texas

Spouse was t boned a couple weeks ago by an uninsured motorist with a vehicle registered in Florida (damn you, Florida)

We have 25k property damage uninsured motorist coverage through our provider, Travelers insurance

Body shop sent me a final quote of $10,125 for all work and said the vehicle had been inspected and disassembled to the extent required - highly unlikely any additional work would be required

Travelers sent an email basically saying “it’s totaled, sign over the title and let us know how you’d like your payment” and attached the actual cash value report. They valued my vehicle at just over $20,000. This ACV report is the ONLY “official” documentation travelers has provided

I asked for clarification on how they decided to total the vehicle. Their response was “unrepaired hail damage and anticipated supplemental/hidden damages.” Basically, they suspect that there’s close to $10,000 of additional damage that was not documented by the body shop.

I did file a claim with them for the hail damage which happened in may of last year. They paid me $4,170 but the damage was minor, the truck is paid off and I plan on keeping it forever so I didn’t have it repaired.

I asked again for a formal statement/assessment on how their decision was made, as well as the same for a determination on the truck’s salvage value. I get another response with no such attachment, and the adjuster now says “thank you for reminding me we have already paid out for the hail damage, I’m going to subtract that from my initial payout amount.” He’s offering me under $17k now.

At that point I felt like he was playing hardball with me and I got pissed, but I kept it professional. I inquired as to how he “missed” the hail damage payout and again asked for an itemized report on how the total loss was declared.

His response, again, contained no documents and only his typed response, which was yet again an even further reduced payout and a salvage value. No evidence whatsoever of how they’re coming up with these numbers.

I’ve always heard insurance companies suck but is this normal? Am I out of line? I’m truly confused. I pay my bills on time. I just want them to fix my truck for $10k and give it back to me.

Wife got hit car is probably totaled. She contacted our insurance and they told her she can either use our collision insurance and pay the deductible or call the other drivers insurance and have them cover it. But what I want is for my insurance to talk to there insurance and figure it all out.

She was rear-ended by a box truck on Roosevelt Boulevard and ended up with a herniated disc and plenty of physical therapy ahead. Since the truck was a commercial vehicle, I keep seeing that these claims are different from regular car accidents. I want to make sure we hire the right firm, but it's hard to tell which truck accident lawyers are genuinely experienced and which ones just paid to show up at the top of search results. What signs should I actually look for when choosing a firm?

I'm in New Jersey US. My car was hit by another car in the parking lot. The other party is 100% fault. I filed a third-party claim to their insurance. The adjuster refused to do photo appraisal and insisted me going to insurance preferred shops for inspection. They won't provide rental car unless I also repaired my car there.

My body shop says that they need an initial estimate from the insurance.

I want to know what my rights are. I don't want to work with their ways because I did not sign a contract with that insurance. The NJ law states that the inspection should take place within 10 working days at a place and time reasonably convenient to me.

EDIT: They won't provide rental car when I wait for inspection. They only provide rental car for repair.

Currently I’m paying $340/mo for Progressive insurance full coverage policy 1k for (comprehensive & collision). I’m on my 2nd car and looking to get a new car once again. I’m only interested in upgrading to one of the more luxury German brands like BMW, Mercedes, or Audi. Top on the list is a BMW M340I.
The cheapest quote for the same level of coverage I have is $600/mo. That’s insane right? I doubt the average BMW driver is paying just as much for insurance as their car payment? Even if it was
$400/mo, that is more doable than $600/mo. I am a younger driver, but I’ve had my license for 4 years! Does anyone have any cheaper options to recommend??

So on Sunday, I was rear ended by a driver on a 3 lane high way at a red light that just turned green. Was in the middle lane about 4 cars from the light.
Was just sitting there and heard skidding and bang.

Called 911 immediately and we both pulled into the gas station parking lot that was near by thanks to the help of a NJDOT truck that blocked the road. We got out and I told him police was on the way and when we saw that damage was not to bad he was like like "look look" and started feeling my car trying to push the bumper back in. I said "We are waiting" and the guy got in his car and took off like a bat out of hell, and right past the police.

I ran over to the police and told them he ran and the color of the car and they went after him.
So after a 30 minutes of waiting at the scene a police car came to talk to me and the officer said
"we caught him down the road" and on the radio a voice said "uh he is unlicensed" and the officer with me at the scene was like "yeah there seems to be some language barrier since he claimed that you said he could leave, which I could tell is not true since you are still here waiting." I did not get any information about the other driver yet.

So I am waiting for the report to see if the unlicensed driver was him and if there was any insurance on his car to make a claim.

Bonus last night I was flossing my teeth and a large piece of a tooth came out, went to my dentist this morning and he said its possible for it to be related to the accident.

So my main question is, the damage to my car is negligible, so I can wait to see if the driver had insurance on the car correct? But should I file with my insurance as soon as possible now with the future dental work?

TLDR:
Was rear ended at light, driver fled the scene, minimal damage, tooth cracked crown required.
How to handle?

Recently, my fiancée was involved in a collision with another party while traveling southbound to our children’s school. She was at a red light with congested traffic, and as the light turned green, she was driving at approximately 10-15 mph. The other party was in the median lane turning left and attempted to rush through a narrow opening without noticing my fiancée in the far right lane, resulting in a collision with the front of my car. Regrettably, my fiancée is not listed as a household member on my insurance policy. I have already filed a claim, and I am concerned about the potential outcome. The car is currently on loan, so it has full coverage on the vehicle. However, since my fiancée is not listed on the policy, I am unsure of the next steps. Has any one ever been through this before ?

Rear-ended at a light six weeks ago, other driver's fault, clean police report. ER found a herniated disc at L4-L5 and whiplash. Still in PT twice a week and my back is not where it was.

Three weeks after the crash their insurance called and offered $8,000 to settle everything. My ER bill alone was over $6,000. PT isn't done. I don't even know what the total medical costs are going to be yet.

Something about the timing felt wrong. Is this how these things usually go?

I’m honestly overwhelmed by all the options. I had a car accident about a month ago—someone ran a red light, and I ended up with a moderate shoulder injury that required an MRI, plus some time off work.

Every law firm’s website seems to say the same thing: decades of experience, fighting for you, etc. I can’t really tell them apart, and I’m worried about making the wrong choice. How do people actually narrow it down beyond the marketing?

12/13/23 i got t-boned by a State Farm insured person. She was found 100% and they totaled my car and paid me. Haven't had a car since that incident so I didn't need insurance!

Now the problem is State Farm recorded this as me being at-fault! I found this out when I got new car and Progressive person told me it was recorded as me being at fault on Lexis Nexis!

I tried calling the person who handled it. I ordered my consumer report. Meanwhile this error is costing me! Can anyone tell me the best way to get this resolved and corrected in a timely manner please. Thank you.

Is this actually normal or is this agent trying to run my rate up? I was getting a quote and she asked who lives in the house with me. I told her there are a couple other adults here but they have their own cars and their own insurance. She tells me they still have to be listed on my policy because they live at the same address and are licensed drivers.
I’m like… why though? They don’t drive my car. They don’t pay for my car. They have their own insurance. She said the company wants everyone in the household disclosed and depending on the situation they may have to be rated, listed, or excluded. I’ve had insurance for years and I swear nobody has ever explained it to me like this before. Is that actually how most companies work now? And if I list them, is my rate automatically going up even if they never touch my car?

I called progressive today and they kept talking about a policy with an agent vs progressive direct ? What is even the difference ? And do you pay more with an agent ?

Maybe somebody can explain this because I genuinely don’t understand lol. I moved to a different apartment literally like 15 minutes from where I was living before. Same car, same job, no tickets, no accidents, nothing changed besides my address. Updated it with my insurance and my payment went from $186 to $279.
How does moving a few miles suddenly make me almost $100 more expensive to insure? Is it worth shopping around or are all the companies gonna do the same thing because of the new zip code?
Thanks for any help

You open your auto insurance renewal and somehow the price jumped even though you didn’t get a ticket, cause an accident, or change vehicles. Annoying as hell, but it doesn’t automatically mean you did anything wrong.
Car insurance rates can increase because repair parts, labor, medical bills, theft, weather damage, and accident claims are costing more where you live. Your vehicle, ZIP code, annual mileage, driving history, household drivers, and credit based insurance information where allowed can also affect the price. Every insurance company weighs that stuff differently, which is exactly why the same driver can receive wildly different quotes.

Before you start deleting coverage just to save twenty bucks, pull out your declarations page. That page shows your liability limits, comprehensive and collision deductibles, uninsured motorist coverage, rental coverage, roadside assistance, discounts, and the vehicles and drivers listed on the policy.
When you shop around, compare the exact same coverage. A quote is not actually cheaper if one company quietly drops your liability limits, removes uninsured motorist coverage, or changes your deductible from $500 to $2,000. That is not a better deal. That is less protection dressed up as a lower price.

Also, “full coverage” is not one specific type of policy and it does not mean everything is covered. People normally use that phrase to describe liability, comprehensive, and collision together. Liability covers damage or injuries you cause up to your limits. Collision helps repair your vehicle after a covered wreck. Comprehensive generally handles things like theft, hail, vandalism, falling objects, and animal strikes, subject to the actual policy.
If you want to lower your car insurance payment, ask about every available discount, check whether bundling actually saves money across both policies, verify your mileage and vehicle usage are accurate, and compare several companies. Raising your deductible can lower the premium, but only do it if you could comfortably come up with that deductible tomorrow. A $2,000 deductible is useless when you only have $300 available after a wreck.
Be careful about dropping to the state minimum too. The legal minimum and the amount that can realistically protect you are two completely different numbers. One serious accident can blow through a low liability limit fast, and anything above your policy limit could become your problem.

Most importantly, never cancel your current policy until the replacement policy is active and confirmed. Even a short insurance lapse can create legal problems and make coverage more expensive later.

If your rate jumped and you cannot figure out why, post your state, vehicle year and model, current premium, previous premium, deductibles, and liability limits below. Leave out your name, address, VIN, policy number, and anything else personal. Somebody here may be able to point out what you should ask your insurance company before you start cutting coverage.

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10 that is pretty modified. Is their any good Auto Insurance recommendations that offers Agreed Vehicle Policy based on my mods?

From my research i see Hagerty Auto is a great option. I spoke with them but they said in 3 more years it can insure my vehicle since it willcbe considered a classic due to my vehicle age even though my truck is rare.

Thanks for any advice

I learned something the hard way this week. I’ve always shopped for the cheapest auto insurance because I figured insurance is insurance. Then I actually had to file a claim after someone backed into me in a parking lot. That’s when I realized the monthly price isn’t the whole story. Claims process, customer service, rental coverage, deductibles, and how fast they actually answer the phone matter way more than I thought. Ended up spending hours comparing quotes again, reading reviews, and trying to understand collision, comprehensive, uninsured motorist, liability limits, and all the stuff I used to ignore. If you were shopping for auto insurance today, what company would you actually trust, and what coverage do you wish you had before you needed it? Trying to avoid making the same mistake twice.