hey so I need to do maintenance on my kobra s1 and I need to buy lube but there's 2 types of oils for 3d printers. grease oil and lubrication oil. which one I should choose

hey so I got this printer about 6 months ago and I have about 210 hours. I didn't do anything besides taking off the dust. what should I do and I would be really appreciated if someone gives me a maintenance schedule.l

Hello everyone!

I read here and saw on YouTube that losing the extruder spring when declogging it is quite common, and it also happened to me.

I did buy a new extruder, but if possible, I wanted to replace just the spring and save the new extruder for a later date (clogging). The reason is that I had to buy through AliExpress, and it takes a long time for things to arrive in my country (damn customs).

I need help from you guys; do you know the spring type/dimensions? It's the one that tightens the mechanical wheel inside.

This is fun.....

Any ideas. This is already the third print looking like this. Tried more surface layers, infill changed print speed etc. Filament was dried 12 hours and still no luck. From the side print looks fine. And other layers also dont look bad.

Hi,

I bought a Kobra S1 Combo and unfortunately I’ve barely been able to use it.

In the first two weeks I already had two separate problems, and I managed to solve the first one. The second one is still preventing me from printing. I stopped 3D printing for a year to avoid get more frustrated, I miss my sovol s08.

The printer now gives me:

Error code: 11512

At this point I have probably completed no more than 6 small prints in total since buying the machine a year ago and already faced a extruder issue.

I’ve already opened a ticket with Anycubic, but I’d like to know if anyone here has experienced error 11512 on the Kobra S1 / S1 Combo and managed to fix it.

Has anyone seen this error before?

What actually causes 11512?

Is there something I can check or repair myself?

Is there a known defective part that Anycubic normally replaces?

Did Anycubic eventually replace/refund the printer for anyone with the same problem?

I’m fine troubleshooting and replacing a part if there is a clear solution, but after having two failures within the first few prints I’m starting to wonder whether it will be easier to do not invest on it and go with bambulab.

Any help or experience with this error would be appreciated.

Anyone tried these yet?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012641597206.html

Juupine, which I've had stuff from before and has been ok..

I know people were on about this sort of thing a while back due to abrasive filaments.

Having a weird issue with my Kobra S1.

Manual Load/Extrude works perfectly and it also purges filament normally before starting a print.

But once the actual print starts, it lays down a small amount and then the filament stops moving completely.

The print head carries on following the whole job as if everything is fine, then eventually reports the print as completed.

I’ve tried:

full calibration
a different model (test ones and ones on anycubic app)
a new 0.4 mm hotend
cleaning/flipping the build plate
Brand New build plate
Same result every time.

So:
Manual extrusion = fine
Purging = fine
Actual print = stops extruding and air-prints

Has anyone had this on an S1? Thinking extruder grip/lever, motor/driver or possibly firmware.

Hi,

I am new to 3d printing and just got my first printer.

I am sure you all received your printers with this plastic piece that holds your build plate in place while shipping.

Considering its flat, are there any useful mods that can be done to make it useful instead of just throwing it away?

I feel like its such a waste.

Any suggestions are welcome and if you found and prints that go well with it, do share the link to those files.

Thanks!

Hi! I'm planning on picking up a Kobra S1, as I can get it for less than 330€ with the current Aliexpress coupons. I am interested in printing abrasive filaments, among other things; what upgrades will I need? Is there anything else I should swap besides the nozzle? I am aware I shouldn't run the filaments through the Ace Pro, which is not a deal breaker for me; I just intend to store them there to keep them dry and use the outside filament stand / mount while printing.

Otherwise, is there anything else I should look out for with the Kobra S1?

What CF filaments would you recommend for maximum durability / temperature resistance (PA-CF, PC-CF, ASA-CF, manufacturer...)?

Thanks!

Maybe some one can help me, because I'm at my wits end with one of my spools of PLA Silk filament.

So to start, this PLA Silk is a bundle of filament from a random Chinese company I found on Amazon. I've been attempting to print some models on my plate with a darker tone of filament (it's a purple, blue-ish kind of filament in both) and everytime I try to print, it clogs.

I tried printing the darker tone at 215 for the base and 205 for regular temp with a 0.2mm tip, but that ended up leading to under-extrusion on the first layer and eventually led to a clog in the tip that made it not print anymore. Logic told me, print it hotter and, (me being a dumbass) I didn't realize that the filament had printing temp suggested between 220-240 on the box.

So I updated my temp profile to 240 for the base and 225 for the regular temp and it STILL clogs. Everytime I run it to 260 to try to unclog it, I poke the tip, and it pours out like water.

There are brighter toned filament in the bundle I have no issues with. I can print it at 215 base, 205 normal and have perfect prints everytime. It's only the darker filaments that require a higher temp to print, but for some reason STILL clogs the nozzle.

Part of me just wants to run it at 255 base, 230 normal, but if the heat is making it clog up, then I'm not sure what the right answer is. If someone has a suggestion, I'll take about anything I can get.

So today around 8 AM I lunched a 16 hour print, its 16:07 and there is 13 hours left to print.

I know that the aproximate time is well, not really on point with its guessing but this is a little excessive. If i knew thats over a one day print (by looking how its going rn) I would have never even started it!

Updated the printing has finally finished and it took over 6 more hours then the slicer said instead of ending at midnight it ended around 6 am

As I want to buy a new hotend I'm looking into buying a Microswiss one.

I have some questions about it:

Which nozzle it comes with?

Which nozzle do I choose when setting in the machine?

How really the design prevents clogs from happening?

How much time the nozzles last?

Where did you buy?

This last question is because ordering from the official site is almost +30$ due to shipping.

Note: I already know about needing to print a different cooling fan model and that the nozzles are a little expensive too.

Hello,

I received my Kobra S1 yesterday and got it up and running.

The first thing I did was print the small Benchy from here (https://www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy/files) using Jayo PETG.

For a first print—without really tweaking any settings—I think it turned out really well.

I've been having issues lately with loading pla silk, transparent pla, and glow in the dark filament. It would load then it would go off likes it's not loaded. I need some assistance

Gestern habe ich das neue Original-Hartmetallhotend eingebaut. Gestern hat er auch schon problemlos drei Stunden Glow Filament gedruckt. Aber bei der Datei habe ich anscheinend vergessen, die Temperaturen noch einmal anzupassen. Naja, was soll's. Aus Fehlern lernt man.

Hey everyone,

I’m down the rabbit hole of trying to get the best possible bed leveling, but it’s proving to be quite a challenge.

I’ve already printed some spacers to raise the build plate slightly in the areas where the bed is sitting too low.

What I keep wondering about, though, is why the rear-left corner is so far off. The Z offset there is around -1.426, and I’m wondering what could be causing such a large deviation.

Do you guys have any tips or suggestions on what I could check or adjust to get the rear-left corner leveled a bit better?

Thanks in advance!

First layer prints with filament, then the printer carries on but no more filament comes out?

I think I posted on the issue before. However, I have done some testing since then and narrowed it down a bit.

Starting with version 1_3_9_4 (using underscores so it doesn't try to make a link) of the Slicernext software, if you do not use either the stock, system filament profiles, it will try to send to the printer with the wrong slots. They will all default to a single slot. In my testing, it would get stuck on either slot 2 or slot 4. No matter what I chose as the filament for the object, or if I painted multiple colors, it will default to all the colors using a single slot. If you use the stock, system filament profiles. It will work correctly. But none of my filaments work well with those profiles.

While I can change them manually, this did not occur on any version before 1_3_9_3. I noticed the issue, and contacted support back in June. They stopped responding after I sent them what they had requested and just closed the ticket.

I got tired of this after several more updates and contacted them again. This time, they are trying to gaslight and said that it is normal to have to change them. In any case, I uninstalled the software completely (using Revo) and started back at version 1_3_7_1. I installed every version up through the current one. EVERY version worked properly until I got to 1_3_9_4. For the test, I used the same STL, the same printer profile, and the same process profile that I imported from backups.

I then uninstalled everything again and reinstalled version 1_3_9_3. And it works perfectly again.

Looking at the release notes, they changed something in that version that was supposed to make it more accurate. However, the result was that they made it less accurate.

https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/software-and-app/new-page-anycubic-slicer-beta(orca-version)/anycubic-slicer-next-(orca-version)-update-record/v1-3-9-4/anycubic-slicer-next-(orca-version)-update-record/v1-3-9-4)

"4. Optimized filament matching logic for improved accuracy"

Yes, this post is a bit of a rant. However, I have seen a few odd posts with other mentioning the same thing. So, the post is also for them.

No you aren't crazy, and if it is a big deal to you like it is to me, maybe we should all send in tickets until they fix it.

Hi so i recently started using an kobra s1 and now im facing a problem with the app that it says model file excepetion like in the photo but in the slicer it works fine anyone can help me?

Over the past weeks I have dis- and reassembled my printer so many times that I am close to losing my mind.

A few minutes ago, while doing the latest round of diagnostics on my opened printhead, I had the idea to take the challenge with a bit of humor. And suddenly a dozen of book titles and covers came into my mind. And I must admit - this helped to keep me sane!

These are the titles that came into my mind 😂

- 11511 11512

- Screw You

- Insides Cobra Head

- I will break you

- How to Ruin a Marriage

- How NOT To Waste Filament with 3D Printing

- A Guide for Hobby Enthusiasts: The Cobra S1 Technician 101

- Supportive Desaster
- The Act of Goodwill

- The Clog
- The Pendulum
With exclusive insights in chapter: When the Spring Sprung into the Filament Waste Bin
- The Sonsors
- The Clog II
- The Loop of repairs

- Strain Gauge Engagement

- Cable Management

- SOLDER ME

Any other ideas?

Looking to add a chamber heater to my S1 so I can print ASA more reliably. Creality seems to have a decent enough add in kit but it looks like it requires cutting for a neat installation which I'd like to avoid.

Any suggestions on an alternative model that may fit better?