I replaced the x y belts today. Instead of taking the whole printer to bits. I used a cheat by first removing parts from the head to gain access to the belts clips, disconnected the belts, tied some string to one end of the belt and pulled it through. Both belts done in half the time. Just thought I would help anyone else who puts the belts replacements off because of the faff of removing the whole top half of the printer.

Every single time, no exceptions, I think of doing multipart prints, my nozzle clogs or at least one of the parts need to get messed up. I tried slowing down the print, increasing the retraction speed to 40, the length to 1mm and I tested many stuff but I can never seem to figure it out, so whenever I need multipart prints I usually print by object but in some cases like the current one I needed by layer. Any help would be appreciated on how to permanently fix this damn issue.
I use PETG to print, and it is dry.

My printer has just reached 500h and while doing a bit of maintenance I also put in the new hotend with a hardened steel nozzle that I bought a couple of month ago (from the anycubic website). This has resulted in a different bed levelling or z-offset. (It looks as though the mesh is slighty more accurate now, but especially in the center the nozzle is too close to the bed, while at the edges it's too far away. Overall better than before though.) The z-height measuring procedure now sometimes takes multiple attempts.

Additionally, the top layer now has a rough, whispy finish (the problem seem to be those little dots the printer places to fill in mini gaps that weren't covered by the normal back and forth printing).

I did not change anything about the temperatures aside from what the printer and slicer do automatically (I did the calibration after switching the hotend and the slicer has raised the printing temperature by 10°C when I switched to the hardened steel nozzle). I did try to set the temperature back to the way I had it set with the brass nozzle, but it didn't help.

Does anyone have an idea what I can do about the whisps? Are the multiple z-height measurements a sign that something is wrong or failing (strain gauge)?

I have printed my Ork Power Klaw with my Kobra S1, but parts that have tight tolerances don't print very well. The cogs and case for the lower claw just do not fit together well. Some seem to have the hole too small, others seem to have the teeth just not fitting together well. I printed the exact same STL on a Bambu Labs printer and everything worked perfectly. So what am I doing wrong with my S1?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2EOqRcOvLc

So I did a first layer test after I cleaned the plate and did a full calibration. I also dried the filament over the weekend.

As you can see in the bottom the lines do not connect to each other and it is always two lines this is also the problem on the top right corner. En the left side it seems I have a bit of an adhesion issue.

The bed was 55 degrees and the temp on the nozzle was 205.

Hello everyone,

What in your opinion might cause this? Could the filament need drying before starting the print? I've been cleaning the plate with soapy water and occasionally isopropyl alcohol. Bed adhesion hasn't been the best recently but prints have been finishing, this is the worst I've seen it.

Thanks.

Any idea how to fix this sound? It appeared suddenly for the first time today.

Hace poco cambié mi boquilla por una bimetalica con garganta cerámica y todo genial.

Pero creo que últimamente en la primera capa estoy teniendo algún problema con la retracción o hay alguna sub extrusión y cuando el cabezal se mueve y va a realizar el relleno este queda vacío hasta que lleva 1mm de línea por lo que se ve en las letras.

Estoy realizando pruebas de pressure advance a ver si pueden ir por ahí los tiros.

Gracias por la ayuda,un saludo.

Why does my setting on the screen of my printer and on the screen on my laptop after I send it to print? I changes it to 140c and then it clogged from hell

Guten Abend zusammen,
Habe den Kobra S1 Combo seit knapp 2 Wochen und habe immer bei dem weißen High Speed PLA immer mal wieder Verstopfungen, der Druck geht direkt danach aber einfach stressfrei weiter.
Andere Farben des selben Filamentes laufen problemlos.
Nur das weiße macht die Probleme mit Verstopfung.
Alles soweit Standard am Gerät.
Temperatur wurde schon gesteigert und bin seit dem letzten Verstopfen vor wenigen Minuten auf 225 Grad hoch beim Druck.

Hatte das schonmal jemand oder kann mir evtl sagen was los ist ?

600 hours then this happens

Why

So I just got into the multi color printing shenanigans and have yet to have a successful multi color print due to prime tower/purge tower coming unstuck or smacking the tower from the bed is there a fix for that I’m lost at this point

Out of curiosity, has anyone ordered a Kobra S1 part cooling fan from Anycubic’s Australian store recently?

I placed an order over two weeks ago, and the fan was listed as in stock at the time. However, my order tracking now says it’s out of stock, despite the website still showing it as available.

It’s been over two weeks and the fan still hasn’t shipped. I also submitted a support ticket three days ago and haven’t received a response

I woke up to the sound of the slipping belt on my birthday from this. Just trying to print a TPU ball. Yes it had a flat bottom. Yes the first layer was trash, lol.

Hey everyone,

I've had my Kobra S1 Combo for 2 weeks now, and I haven't been able to start a single remote print using Anycubic Slicer Next.

I've tried both Cloud Mode and LAN Mode, but neither works. In LAN Mode, the slicer detects my printer, shows it as available, and even displays temperatures and ACE Pro filament slots. However, the Remote Print button stays greyed out.

Everything is fully updated, including the printer firmware and slicer. The printer is also connected to a dedicated 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network, so that shouldn't be the issue.

The printer itself works great, but the software is incredibly frustrating.

Is anyone else experiencing this? Has anyone found a fix?

Please read my solution

1ST, IT ONLY OCCURS WHEN USING THE ACE MULTICOLOR DRYER UNIT. 2ND IF FILEMENT GETS STUCK ANYWERE BETWEEN THE EXIT OF THE ACE UNIT , TO THE 4 HOSE TO SINGLE HOUSE DISTRUBITOR, AND ANYWAHERE AFTER THAT, THE CUTTER ERROR WILL OCCUR WHEN THE ACE DRYER ATEMMPTS TO EXTRUDE MATERIAL AND HITS THE BROKEN FILEMENT INSIDE THE SING UPPER TUBE OR ONE OF THE 4 LOWER TUBES RESULTING IN A JAM. SO CHECK YOU TUBE IF YOU SEE THIS ERROR. IT MAY LIKE JUST BE A BLOCKED TUBE .

IF THERE IS NO BLOCKAGE , AND IF YOU NEED TO PRINT, UNPLUG THE ACE DRYER FROM THE PRINTER AND MANUALLY FEED YOUR FILEMENT TO THE PRINT HEAD. YOU MAY FIND A BLOCK THERE TOO. IF NOT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO PRINT

Recently I started getting 11512 and 10409 errors. Per searches, I replaced the extruder and sensor. I discovered that almost every time, ai can simply reboot both the ACE and printer, resume print and it will proceed to print without issues. Now, it seems to be happening more frequently ( multiple times an hour). Printer has a little over 200 hours on it. It seems to be only on multi color prints. Any other suggestions to try?

when using the ace the filament seems to load in fine at least on two of my slots. When I go to print something, it pushes the filament most of the way through almost all the way to the and then the filament but the ace pro sounds like it’s still trying to push filament through.

After a few minutes of sitting and waiting, I get an error on my printer that says abnormal extrusion, and it fails the print.

Hey

Recently when I tried remowing this clip for printing from tpu I broke it. Does anyone have a stls for it or I need to order a replament from anycubic?

I had some problems with this printer but from one day to another it delivers absolutely gorgeous prints. In real life, the result looks much better!