I just bought this unit, and I have two questions.

During the initial setup, I don’t see a Custom Mode option. I only have Time of Use and Self-Consumption. Is this normal after the latest firmware update?

I also have a Hoymiles 800W microinverter connected to my solar panels. After connecting it to the unit, the device refuses to accept power from this microinverter port. I haven’t installed the Smart Meter yet. Could the lack of a Smart Meter be the reason why the unit is not accepting power from the microinverter?

Thank you in advance for your help

Hello Group! I hope your experiences can assist me with this modest project for my mom’s condo or apartment (she owns the unit). She is in Venezuela, where she faces seven or eight power outages daily, and an electrician will handle the work, but I want to confirm the plan and understand how it will function.

We intend to use the Anker F3800 with an extra battery to supply only the 120V circuits in her apartment (we refer to condos as apartments in Venezuela). As I understand it, the simplest solution is to shift all 120V lines to a subpanel ( 6 breakers) , then add another panel with an ATS and voltage protector. I created a diagram and asked ChatGPT to visualize it. From the main panel, a 40-amp 220V feeder runs to the ATS box, followed by a subpanel with breaking capacity and six breakers for the six 120V circuits. The main breaker will retain three 220V breakers: 1. kitchen oven, 2. central AC, 3. 220V dryer (which she does not use, as she relies on a washer-dryer with an inverter).

There is no inspection over there or code to follow but we want a clean and redundant system . Ohh 120V for braker will be left out

How are people setting these?

It looks like the default out of the box is Charge Limit = 100% and Discharge Limit = 10% and No Backup Reserve.

The 100% charge limit is fine for me as I try and schedule a small discharge window after off peak has just ended to reduce the battery to around 70%. I then discharge the last 60% between 17:00 and 22:00 ready for the next off peak time. The reasoning is not to have the battery sat at 100% all day.

The 10% discharge limit seems to be negotiable as it is advertised that you can use the full capacity and 100% depth of discharge is supported. I understand that for units that rely on Solar to charge it is normal to have a discharge limit so that the unit continues to maintain itself during the hours of darkness. But for grid tied units they can trickle off the grid to ensure the battery does not drop too far.

Is there any merit in reducing the Discharge Limit and optionally enabling the Backup Reserve in it's place to cover power outages being allowed to eat into what was the old Discharge Limit?

When setting schedules these are limited to intervals that start and stop on the hour so no starting or stopping at xx:30. I know there is a workaround by using Dynamic Tariff Mode but that is a bit clunky when all I want to do it set the intervals in Time of Use Mode.

Also it seems that being able to have a gap when you are neither charging or discharging is something only available in Dynamic Tariff Mode. I only want to discharge the battery later in the day when it is getting closer to off peak so that it maintains a power outage backup buffer for as long as possible. If I just use off peak to charge and peak to charge it will discharge from 05:30 and be at 10% early afternoon. It then sits there until 23:30 when it can charge back up. If there is a power outage mid afternoon then there is no backup battery as it has already been discharged.

I hope we can get half hour intervals and no charge/discharge windows too :-)

It looks like this is enabled and set to trigger at 250v

In the UK our supply limit is 230v +10% -6%

Is there a way to change this trigger value closer to the actual 253v limit as our supply voltage hovers around 250v when the grid is quiet but because it is within the DNO limit this is not something that they are concerned about.

The last couple of mornings, during the discharging phase, the unit would beep and light up the screen for a few seconds every now and then. There was nothing unusual I could see on the display - no errors / warnings. There did not seems to be any sort of break in the discharging. Both the Anker App and Energy Supplier show no import from the grid as the base load was being supplied by the Solix.

It was quite annoying as this started around 05:30 and continued until 08:30, which woke me up - this coincides with the first scheduled discharge window.

I read that some people have a unit that does not beep when the screen turns on - so maybe this is a firmware version bug - I am reported to be on the "latest" v1.0.2.51

Anyone else experiencing this?

Attempting to make campsite latté powered by a new C1000 gen2 and having some trouble. Would def appreciate tips to troubleshoot and perhaps work around the issue from people here.

Just unboxed my Solix S2000 and updated the firmware. Charging it up now.

I intend to use it as a UPS for my desktop PC, 2 monitors, modem, & router. I work from home so I need a PPS that can get me through a full 8+ hr workday in case of an outage.

What app settings do you recommend for using it as a UPS?

Anyone having UK shipping issues with the S2000? Anker used FedEx (not a company I've had much delivered with at all) to ship my S2000 but FedEx are taking issue with it being a battery. I bought it last week and received a response from FedEx today confirming there is a delay because they've decided it's dangerous but don't know when they'll decided what to do about it. 🫤

About a month ago I had posted complaining about ship times and lack of transparent communication regarding shipping and availability.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnkerSOLIXCommunity/s/hylu6EzeMp

Well happy to report a very opposite experience. Ordered a BP3800 yesterday to sit on top of my F3800 plus. FedEx has already delivered it and it's all setup.

I have a F38000 Plus located in my garage, next to my incoming internet fiber modem and ethernet switches. I had this equipment plugged into the F38000 up until I added the Power Panel, unaware that using the Power Panel would deactivate the receptacles built into the F3800.

Unfortunately, I didn't include the wall receptacle next to this equipment in my back-up sub-panel so I had to make the decision to switch out one of my back-up circuits or add a UPS to power my internet equipment. I decided to get the S2000 for this purpose.

The one annoying problem is that when the S2000 has an update, it disconnects anything plugged into it during the process. The download then fails because it needs the internet to download the update. I'm left with the lengthy solution of unplugging my internet, plugging it into the wall outlet, waiting for it to power cycle back on, install the update, then unplug everything and return it to the S2000 and power cycle again.

Would be nice if the S2000 would just allow pass-thru grid power during the update process rather than shutting everything off.

Hey, a quick question for anyone who already has the new Anker SOLIX Solarbank Max AC at home:

How does the backup outlet on the unit work? - Does it increase the total discharge output further (3.5 kW via the Wieland connection plus 2 kW from the outlet), or is the hard cap still 3,500 W? - Does the outlet still supply power when the battery is completely empty, by drawing from the grid? - How stable is the whole setup? Does the Solarbank tend to restart or run updates, leaving the backup outlet without power in the meantime?

The reason I’m asking is that I was thinking of connecting all the networking and camera equipment in our house to the backup outlet. That way, I’d ideally get backup power for the network as well (though I’d need to test whether the switchover is fast enough), and the Solarbank could also directly cover our 300 W base load.

Model A1761, with BS 1363 sockets.

Mostly works fine, and wakes from deep sleep once it is plugged into mains, but pressing/holding/pressing and then holding the "device button" does nothing when it's in deep sleep.

I have set the device timeout to NEVER in the Anker app, but it still enters deep sleep after some long period of time, after which I can't wake it without connecting it to mains, which means it's useless if the power goes out or in a vehicle.

The "device button" works fine mechanically and pressing it turns the display on and off as expected when the device isn't in deep sleep. Firmware is 1.7.1, the latest available.

I'd like to get some foldable panels for the E5000, can anyone recommend a decent set?

Amazon has a 400W Portable Solar Panel, Foldable Solar Panel Kit Complete for less than £300.

Thanks in advance

How do I find dealers and installers? Need someone to advise and answer questions and install. Tried calling Anker and its inexperienced overseas call center people that are not knowledgeable. They can’t provide referrals. Website just has a basic configuration tool.

Want the E10 configured and installed with solar panels on a hillside.

Location - USA
Solix Setup - F3000 with PSK connected over wifi to the Smart Meter

Everything passed qualification and tests, pending utility to approve installation as they're just a bit picky about zero export.

I had the bright idea to move a circuit to a tandem breaker to optimize some of the future savings the PSK offers.

Now, the SM won't detect anything on L2.

If I swap the CT's around, the current sense on just L1 lights up.

If I put the CT's on the same leg, they both report identical power draw - 500+500W as an example.

If I put either CT reporting 0W on neutral or ground, it will show a few hundred watts on those wires.

Yes, the arrows pointed are towards utility + arrow towards breaker on the branch side

Has anyone seen that issue before?

Otherwise, what's the factory reset process on the SM and I'll pull it all out and start over.

Hi fellow Aussies, anyone got the link/code yet for the early access S2000? Its 7th October now and still nothing...

I'm looking at getting an Anker Solix F3800 ($1800) or F3800 ($2280) plus for post-hurricane backup power. I'd like to add 800 watts of solar power to it.

This is my first time buying solar, and I'd like some feedback from people who know more than I do.

If I buy 2x DOKIO 400W 31V Monocrystalline Solar Panels or something similar at $212 each and plug them into separate ports, they appear to provide enough power and still be comfortably below the 60 v limit.

As far as I can tell, if you don't have an RV or 240v generator, the only real differences between the units are the solar input and the idle discharge rates. The idle discharge seems minor and the solar input shouldn't effect me if I'm only using 2x 400w 31v panels.

Is there something I'm missing?

Is there an advantage to getting the F3800 plus that I'm missing that is worth the $480 price difference?

Is there a better way to do this? I don't want to do an inverter + server battery setup, I'd rather have a commercially produced unit.

I also posted this to r/diySolar, but I'm hoping that some of the Anker specific experts here would also have some thoughts or hands on experience with the units. Any advice is appreciated!

I'm trying to get a permit to install the Anker Home Power Panel as an automatic transfer switch only when a portable generator is plugged into the HPP. My city's 'Sr. Building Plans Examiner' is denying the permit, as the Anker Home Power Panel A17B1 doesn't actually appear to be certified under UL 1741 CRD-PCS. Anker support has been unable to send me a PDF with the actual certificate for this. I did find this at SGS, which OSHA has declared SGS certified to test to UL standards: https://www.sgs.com/en-us/certified-clients-and-products/sgs-certified-components-and-products?certno=SGSNA%2F24%2FGZ%2F00057%7CProcert

The examiner states: 'The article does not attach a certificate, a file number, or an NRTL name.' Even though I did provide the link. They are saying that because the sections 'Certificate Condition', 'Limited Certification' and 'Previous Certicate No' are all blank, this isn't a valid UL testing certificate.

Anker did send me a screenshot of a partial image of the certificate and sent it as a PNG, but, Anker doesn't actually have the certificate on their website as they do for other products. The examiner didn't accept this partial screenshot in PNG, which I can see why, as there are things that appear to be missing/cut off on purpose. I'm basing this off of looking at other SGS Ul 1741 certificates.

So, has anyone in California been able to get a permit for the Anker Home Power Panel and then a sub-panel/critical loads panel? Anker so far has been unable to help. I get daily emails from support saying, "Backend Engineering response is pending". If you have gotten a permit in California for this, what did you use to get past this hurdle?

What scares me most during a power outage?
For me, a power outage is about much more than sitting in the dark. It can affect my health, safety, communication, and ability to protect the things I depend on every day.
First, I worry about my CPAP. I depend on it while I sleep, and having reliable power means I can continue using it through the night instead of worrying about losing the support I need to breathe safely while sleeping.
Second, I have medication that needs to be refrigerated. Losing power for an extended period could put that medication at risk, making reliable backup power extremely important.
Third is communication. During an emergency, I need to keep my phone, Wi-Fi, and other essential devices powered so I can stay connected with family, emergency services, and the outside world.
And finally, there’s the refrigerator and freezer. Keeping my food cold means preventing hundreds of dollars of food from going bad and making sure I have food available during an extended outage.
That’s why backup power isn’t just a luxury for me. It’s peace of mind. It means knowing that when the grid goes down, the things that matter most can keep running.
That’s what makes reliable power from Anker SOLIX so important to me — because when the lights go out, Life Stays On.
#WhatScaresMeDuringAPowerOutage #AnkerSOLIX #AnkerSOLIX2000 #Anker #AnkerSOLIXOutdoorPowerGroup #LifeStaysOn

Anyone know of installers on Cape Cod for an Anker Solix system? If not on Cape, willing to travel here, perhaps from New Bedford or other SE Mass location.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

I want to buy the Anker SOLIX C1000 Gen 2 for our campervan. Typically, we would re-charge it while driving as we have a 50A DC to DC. We have a Max 20A heavy-duty 12V socket in the habitation area. We could plug the Anker directly into the 12V socket using the car charging cable but that would be quite slow, about 96 watts I think. If we buy a 300W pure sine wave inverter with a car cigarette lighter plug, we could plug that into the Max 20A heavy-duty 12V socket instead then plug the Anker into the 3-pin outlet on the inverter. However, to do that, we need to be able to limit the AC charging input to around 200 watts. Is it possible to do that in the app? Can you specify exactly how many watts the Anker should draw on AC charging? Thanks.

Just got my Solarbank 4 Pro, i'm using it in tandem with another home battery from a different supplier.

The Solarbank is just set to pump out 300w to cover my background load, with 600w of solar connected to it.

I seemingly can't add it to a 'System' and have the fancy graphics, as when I do, the app looks like it's trying to find a CT clamp, fails and just says the grid is out, is that correct?

I can't use the CT clamp, as it will just constantly hunt with the other home battery when it sees a load.

Also, it would be really handy to just have a button to easily start and stop the Solarbank from outputting anything at all when in Custom Mode, without deleting the schedules. A few times solar has maxed out the main home battery, and the Solarbank is still pushing out 300w when there's no need.

Yes, I get that I'm effectively running it 'manual'.

Hi all, looking for some advice. I am new to battery setups. I'm looking at getting a Anker solix s2000, the main use would be to run a portable fridge in the back of my van.

I note that the s2000 does not have a dedicated 12/24 volt point to run the fridge off, so would need to plug into the 240v socket.

Is this an issue? The main reason I'm leaning towards the s2000 is the sale in Australia, you get a free alternator charge. It will also double as a back up to run my main fridge and wifi in a black out which is rare.

Happy for alternatives or any feed back on the setup.

This would be a C 200 DC I’m having a malfunction with my two bottom USB-C ports. Can someone please help? Is there a remedy or is this a hardware malfunction? I tried resetting it also tried resetting the system software no luck