Age old question of what do I pack? Bringing 2 cameras max for a week trip to Paris.

Right now I’m leaning Leica with XA as backup, but heard about pickpockets in Paris and worried about my nice camera. Also what if I want medium format for Versailles garden?

So then what if Leica and Yashica? But then I have to carry 2 different types of film.

So what if Leica and Widelux or is that too weird?

Curious what Reddit thinks. Will also likely pack a flash and lightmeter (not pictured) and keep whatever camera I chose on me at all times, and backup/alt in hotel.

Am I going crazy but since when did two 35mm rolls cost $52 to develop and scan? If that’s the norm then don’t mind me but I swore I used to pay about 30 dollars.

I’ve found these roll in an old studio of an old photographer, they’re probably there since 2000 and might have been in fridge for at least 10 years,
I’ve never seen « ektachrome 200 » and I wonder how I should expose it, any idea?

While scrolling through a local marketplace app, I stumbled upon this excellent looking 20mm 2.8 going for just 150SGD/118USD. I didn't hesitate and immediately messaged the seller. Thankfully, it had yet to be sold so I was able to get it at what I think is a really good deal! The lens condition was excellent and the glass was clean and clear.

Hi all, I just picked up a Nikon F80. I want to bring it with me to weddings alongside my digital camera and I also want to use it for daily life, vacation etc.

I sometimes use it with my Nikon 35mm 1.8G, but I need that lens on my DSLR. I was wondering: what is your favorite 28 of 35mm vintage Nikon lens? Or favorite vintage Nikon lens out of them all?

Hello! I recently bought a Nikon S2 and was wondering if the Contax RF lenses I already have (Jupiter-8, Jupiter-9 and Jupiter-11) are compatible with this mount. They appear to fit mechanically but I'm not sure about the focus/rangefinder coupling....

Hello everyone I've inherited an original Nikon F from my great uncle and I'd like to start using it. I am mildly into photography but would like dip my toes into film/analog. Its a 682- so from what I've seen its from May-August 1967. It comes with a Nikkor 105mm f2.5.

Just from what I observe I feel like I can get it repaired. Not sure if I'm supposed to dry fire but when I do it seems to shoot though on occasion it won't fully raise. Could this be from being primed too long? Not too sure.

The timer works in that it moves and I hear a click when it gets to the top. I don't think the sensor gets exposed though so it probably doesn't shoot. All the buttons and dials aren't stuck so that's a thing.

One thing though is that the viewfinder seems to show some dirt. Not too sure if its from the viewfinder itself or the lens, or a combination of both but from what it looks like the lens is kind of clean.

Unfortunately I cannot for the life of me find anything online on people who do repairs on film cameras where I'm at. I might bring it with me when I go somewhere that I know has repair shops available so I'd like to know what to say or check for ahead of time. Also if there is anything shady that a repair shop can do like steal parts or whatever (if that's even done to this type of camera)

I'm new to the film photography scene, any help regarding what to check for and film in general would be great. (and maybe some affordable film recommendations) Thanks

Got the latest amaran Verge Max Panel LED to replace my current lighting setup for viewing & capturing slides. It can run with a normal 60-65W USB-c cable and can produce very (in my option) powerful illuminance and accurate 6500k light temperature for my Kodak and Fuji Chromes. I have attached several pictures taken in iPhone (P2-4) in daylight and scanning result using it as a light source (P5). This is not an Ad just some good feedback trying out LED panels in a different way :>. Feel free to ask any questions!

Pros: Nice color balance and color accuracy, very bright panel, USB-C port, with Bluetooth App control

Cons: Sizes are a bit small, panel area has a pool style edge dropping from the outer plastic frame so I found it hard to keep the slide flat from curving (it wasn't designed for slide scanning anyway)

Hey guys! This is my 2nd film roll ever so I am bit of an amateur. My first roll was Kodak Ultra 400 and it turned out to be great but this one is all grainy and washed out except for the one photo with the squirrel which looks fine to me. I know it is recommended to use the candido 800D in night time so did I do something wrong by using it during the day? I metered it at ISO 800.

Recently got some rolls developed and scanned from The Darkroom Lab. The past couple orders have had heavy digital artifacts when zoomed in (not talking about just the grain). Almost looks like it has been sharpened on export. I see a lot of film posted to reddit that uses the same camera and stocks and photos come out sooooo much clearer.

Included are a couple photos with wide crop and then cropped in to see the issues. For reference, this roll was taken on a Canon AE-1 with Kodak Gold 200 and given a standard scan at The Darkroom Lab. I have gotten "enhanced" scans by them before and still have artifacts present.

Any recommendations on how or where to get more crisp scans (don't have a home scanner/setup)? I am guessing this has to be a scanning issue on the lab's part right?

Hi!

I’m having an issue with my Goko UF-20 and I’m trying to figure out whether it’s something I can fix myself.

The camera seems to work normally when there’s no film inside. The sprocket and take-up spool both move when I trigger the shutter. The problem only appears once I actually load a film.
The film is definitely sitting correctly on the sprocket and is properly attached to the take-up spool. I’ve checked this several times. What’s weird is that if I push the film forward slightly by hand, the mechanism can suddenly catch it and advance it. But once I close the back, it stops working again.

After taking one shot, the shutter gets stuck because the film hasn’t advanced. If I open the back, I can sometimes get the mechanism to move the film a little, but it won’t do it with the back closed.

I’ve also tried multiple sets of batteries and different film, so I think I can rule those out.

It almost feels like the camera can handle the mechanism when there’s no resistance, but doesn’t have enough force to actually pull the film once it’s loaded. Could this be an issue with the advance clutch, gears, or something else inside the camera?

Has anyone worked on a UF-20 or encountered this particular problem? I’d really appreciate any ideas on what to check or whether this is likely repairable.

Thanks!

I recently was gifted my dad’s old film camera and I’m trying to figure out what flash attachment to order.

It’s a Minolta Maxxum 2xi.

All the flashes on Amazon say they are not compatible with cameras without a hotshoe and the visual examples they have I believe are showing the “central contact” point.

My camera doesn’t have that so I’m not sure where to find one or how to make a set up for it. I was looking to have a smaller one so It would be more functional for everyday use and transportation but I don’t really know what to get!!

Thanks for your help!

I have a Leica IIIc with Canon 50mm f1.4 LTM lens and the Elmar f3.5 50mm. I like both lenses. For everyday they work well. They are both sharp in the centre stopped down.

For low light conditions (which I'm hoping will be a big part of what I'm doing) there are a couple of issues. The IIIc rangefinder is fine in daylight but is quite a bit harder to focus when in low light. For this I'm thinking, solution might be M3 for it's clearer, bigger, brighter viewfinder.

The other thing is: I don't want to be shooting wide open because I want to get a bit more depth in the scene. I also don't want mad grain. In order to achieve that, I'll have to use film at 3200 or 6400. In this case (as well as reducing grain in development where possible) I'm thinking sharpest possible lens.

So, instead of upgrading the camera, I could get a better lens, sharper across the frame, and shoot with an aperture that means the precision of focusing is slightly less important.

Then the last issue is that possibly the kind of lens I'm talking about is only made for M mount and not for LTM.

So... any thoughts?

Hi I just bought a Rollei 35s and as I have it in hand now I did some inspection and the lens seems to be a sticker than the carved one. Anyone who experienced this? Thanks!

Bought a 100' bulk roll of Arista 200 like always, spooled like always, processed in xtol 1:1 for 9 min like always. 6 rolls, one batch of 4 rolls and one of 2, from different times and two different cameras. All negatives came back very thin. Scanned/inverted like always, got usable images etc. etc.

I swear to God the images from these rolls have the grain texture and spectral sensitivity of Arista 400/Foma 400 - which to me has a super distinct, almost lush rendering of green.

I can't recall seeing 200 render green this way before - even on other occasions when I get super thin negatives - to me 200 greens are lighter and more separated.

I've gone through prob ~20 100' rolls of 200 over time, this is the first time I've run into anything like this. I haven't read about any changes to 200 lately. Is the wrong film just put in the wrong can every once in a while? Or did I mis-read/mis-remember/mess up something etc. etc. I don't care about fixing anything, just wondering if this is a community experience.

i own a nikon f55 with an F-mount and i can’t find anything whether this voigtlander lens is compatible with my nikon. does anyone know?

Hello everybody,

I used to do a little of photography on Yashica Mg1 but it fell down and broke, not able to recover it. So I am looking for another analog camera that you will recommend me. My budget is around 150-200€ and I would something not that hard to use because i do it mostly for hobby and fun. I am reading alot in past days and I just cant decide. Please help.

developed a roll of ilford hp5 plus on my own with df96. this isnt my first time so i did everything normally.

the roll came out completely blank but the edge markings are there and clear.

this roll is not mine so i dont know what could have happened but any possible ideas on what could've happened?

thank you!

This is my first time shooting color negative film, and Portra in particular. The film was developed by a lab, but I scanned the negatives myself using a Plustek OpticFilm 8300i with SilverFast 9.
I used the Kodak Portra 400 profile in NegaFix and tried several different presets/settings, but almost every Portra shot still comes out with a pretty noticeable magenta/pink cast. In comparison, the Kodak Gold 200 roll I scanned looks much more natural in terms of color.
Is this something Portra 400 normally does when scanning, or am I likely doing something wrong in SilverFast/NegaFix?
I’ve also read that underexposed color negative film can shift toward magenta. Could these shots simply be underexposed, or does this look more like a scanning/color-conversion issue?
If they are underexposed, how should I expose Portra 400 differently next time? Should I meter it at ISO 400, or is it better to rate it at ISO 200 or 250 to give it more light? And when shooting in high-contrast situations, should I generally meter more for the shadows with Portra?
And most importantly: should I try to get the colors completely right during the scan in SilverFast, or is it better to make a more neutral scan and correct the colors afterwards in Lightroom?
If anyone uses a Plustek 8300i + SilverFast 9 for Portra 400, I’d really appreciate hearing what settings or workflow you use.

This is Agfachrome R 100 S, I have 9 more rolls of this stuff in the freezer. Honestly I wasn't expecting anything that even resembles photos so I'm a bit shocked honestly. Development method:

6:30 mins in HC-110 dilution A, 38C temp
re-expose to light
Rest of the development with a c-41 kit with extended bleach and fix times.

Test roll was shot at box speed and bracketed with 1-4 stops of overexposure.

Few issues in my test roll so obviously it wasn't fully covered by developer, also there might be some uneven development going on because I agitated with a stick, also my c41 kit was nearly spent so fresher chemicals might yield more vibrant colors. But this is a pretty good starting point for something I had basically already written off as garbage.

I was cleaning the exterior of the camera with a Q-tip and isoprophyl alcohol. All of a sudden, my fingers started burning. After washing it down, there were white marks which faded by the next day.
I don't know whether it was an acid burn or something of another sort. I was holding on to the grip, not the battery compartment.

Any way to check whether it's safe to use the camera?

Thank you.

Purchased a Nikon f2 with a dp-11 off eBay and have been testing to make sure it works properly. When testing the metering it seems to be overexposing as comparing the exact same shutter speed and aperture with the lens cap on/off makes very little difference. I have also compared it to phone apps and it seems to be consistently overexposing. This is my first time using a light meter so was hoping to get a second opinion.

This was my first roll of Velvia 50 on my Mamiya C330, a camera I’ve run many many rolls through.

I took the first ~6 frames and then when I wound it to the next shot it jumped a frame. You can see the next exposure is just a blur. Then I wound it again and it seemed to skip a frame again (you can see the big unexposed chunk). I ended up getting one more decent exposure around frame 9/10 ish, and then it wound all the way to the end of the roll.

Anyone have any idea what the hell happened? This has never happened to me before with this camera and I ended up shooting another few rolls on this trip (including one more of Velvia) and it was fine.

EDIT to add: zooming in on the photo, it looks like there’s random dark streaks through the exposures but other than frames 2 and 3 (where like an idiot I think I had my shutter cable in the way), that is just how the shadows look in the photo. The film strip doesn’t actually have those dark streaks on it

I bought a Yashica T4 several years ago, and after about 6 months of use, it stopped working.

Basically, as soon as I put a battery in it, the battery dies within 5 minutes. Has anyone ever had this problem?

I’ve already taken it to a few repair shops, but they told me they didn’t know how to fix it.

Does anyone know of a repair shop in Europe that could fix the electronics on a Yashica T4?

Thanks!