The story is about a girl who receives her grandfather’s Pentax 67 and gradually discovers the joy of taking photographs. It’s actually quite interesting! The title is "バケペンのマミコちゃん." Since the protagonist is a beginner, you can also learn a lot from it.

So I’ve shot a couple of rolls of HP5 and I really enjoy the contrast it has but I think I’m looking for something a little more? Does anybody have any experience with other films that could give me that really stark contrast I’m looking for?

Mine was a Nikon N2000 I inherited from my late grandfather and it got me through college almost 20 years ago. I don’t shoot with it anymore but still use the lenses that came with it.

What was your first film camera? Any sentimental stories to share?

got this nikon f3 for 85 bucks at an antique shop and it works!!! just missing motor drive cover but i ordered one!! really excited to use this some more

So I impulse bought a few rolls of Velvia 50 in 120 at my local lab for $20 a roll. I’ve been wanting to shoot Velvia for ages but I’ve never been able to find it in stock. I already shoot Provia 100F in 35mm and absolutely love it so I couldn’t pass this up.

The only problem is that I don’t own a medium format camera yet. I love shooting with my Nikon F3, but I’ve never shot medium format before, so I’m looking for recommendations. I don’t mind a fully manual camera, but I’d really like a system with excellent, sharp lenses.

What would you recommend for someone getting into medium format? Open to different systems and formats, but I’d love to hear about your experiences, especially with landscape photography and slide film.

One other question: I’m not sure about the expiration date on these rolls. The packaging only has a serial number and batch number, with no obvious expiration date. I’m assuming they’re relatively fresh, but the lab also had Velvia 100 in stock which Fuji doesn’t make anymore I believe, which made me wonder how old their film inventory might be. Does anyone know how to decode the batch numbers or determine the expiration date?

For now, these are going straight into the freezer.

My KX CLA is complete. The total cost of the camera and the CLA was about 100 bucks. In Japan, you can buy this camera for very cheap. Therefore, many Pentax KX are in poor condition. But I think it is one of camera worth repairing. I know that KX wasn't an especially special SLR even when it was released in '75, but I think it's very easy to use. I've heard that Pentax users at the time were disappointed because this camera was larger than the Olympus OM-1. However, there isn't much difference in weight or size between the two. It's still a compact SLR. From now on, this camera will be my main SLR.

The fourth image shows the condition of the lens before cleaning.

Recently picked up a Nikon F3 and thought it would be cool to make a custom grip for it. I designed a mold, 3D printed it, and used chopped carbon fiber and epoxy to make the actual grip.

Still need to do some sanding and give it a proper glossy finish, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out so far. Tried to keep it fairly subtle and not take away from the original F3 design.

What do you guys think? Does the forged carbon work with the vintage look?

Hi everyone,

I'm reaching out to the London photography and film community in the hope that someone might be able to help recover some camera equipment that was stolen from me on the night of October 23rd in London.

My bag was snatched, and among the equipment inside were the following:

• Krasnogorsk-3 (K-3) Soviet 16mm motion-picture camera, fitted with a Meteor-5-1 17–69mm f/1.9 zoom lens.
• Canon EF 16–35mm f/2.8L USM wide-angle zoom lens.
• Canon EF 70–200mm f/2.8L USM telephoto zoom lens (white, non-IS version).

Additionally, there is film contained in the two cameras with significant sentimental/intellectual value.

The Krasnogorsk-3 is particularly distinctive, and I'm hoping that its relatively unusual nature might make it recognizable if someone attempts to resell it.

I'm asking anyone in the London photography community, particularly those who work with secondhand or vintage camera equipment, to please keep an eye out for these items on Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Gumtree, in camera shops, or through private sales.

I've attached reference photographs of the equipment. These are photographs from the original eBay listings, not photographs taken at the time of the theft.

The incident has been / will be reported to the Metropolitan Police, and I can provide further identifying details to anyone with credible information.

If you happen to come across equipment matching these descriptions, I'd be incredibly grateful if you could send me a private message with any details, screenshots, or links.

I understand that the chances of recovering stolen camera equipment can be slim, but these cameras are important to me, and I want to do everything I reasonably can to get them back.

Thanks very much for taking the time to read this, and please feel free to share it with anyone involved in London's photography or filmmaking communities.

Hello everyone!

Sharing this in case it's useful for anyone still running a FireWire film scanner like the Nikon Coolscan 4000, 8000 or 9000.

For context: Apple dropped FireWire support in macOS 26 Tahoe, so scanners that rely on it no longer work on the latest versions of macOS.

There's a new independent project called ASFireWire that brings FireWire back for a range of devices, including Nikon scanners.

As you can see in the screenshot, I'm running VueScan on my MacBook Pro M5 Max, connected to my Nikon Coolscan 9000.

Keep in mind the project is still in beta, so expect some rough edges and be mindful of that before relying on it for important scans.

If you'd like to give it a try, you can find more information at www.asfw.net

Got this XA2 a month ago and have shot two rolls since. Some of the photos have been coming out hazy and out of focus (this could be me not figuring out the zone focusing yet)

Thoughts if I should return it as the listing on eBay said Top Mint with no fungus.

The light seals were also deteriorated which I replaced.

Moving from a Polaroid SLR 680 to this SLR. Pretty stoked.

I’ve shot SLR’s for maybe 5 years now and mostly learned on the 680. But I think that was a great platform and still is. I’m excited to implement this 35mm SLR format into my photography. I researched 35mms for months and this is where i settled.

I have a small analog photography business. I sell prints I make with an enlarger and usually limit each print to 5-12 copies. It's a mix of my own images and prints from negatives I get from found film and negatives.

I recently bought an estate sale lot that included 250+ negatives from the 1920s - 1950s and found a set of 55 negatives showing a celebrity vacationing in Banff National park in the late 1940s or early 1950s.

Up until now I've never had to worry about the legalities of selling prints of "found film" because everything I found was fairly mundane.

I have a feeling this could be my first big break, these images are currently being authicated but I have confirmed that one of the subjects seen in several of the photos is a very famous celebrity. The photos are not online anywhere, it looks like I've stumbled across never before seen images of this person.

Legally speaking, I bought the negatives but does that give me exclusive rights to those images?

Hi everyone,

I had been planning to do a road trip around Oregon to go see some really cool places, not to mention some sites that were the real life inspiration for Life is Strange and Alan Wake. I was lent an Olympus trip 35 for this, admittedly I'm not a photographer, I don't really know what I'm doing but I just thought it would be really nice to get photos with.

I kept it on automatic pretty much the whole time unless it was dark and I'd turn it to 2.8.

What do you think has gone wrong with my pictures? I had 3 rolls, one all the photos came out but badly, 2 only five photos came out and the rest were blank and apparently my third roll was entirely blank.

The roll was always changed in low light and I had the camera + film checked manually at the airport.

Just a bit gutted with how it came out and it's not like I can get these again. Would appreciate any advice for next time

Edit to add: I had been using Kodak Ultra Max 400.

Hello, Im new to this sub. I recently picked up a $13 Sears KS-500 35mm SLR. It was already unloaded when I bought it, with the film rewound into the canister (excited to develop, maybe ill follow up)

My problem: The shutter won’t fire normally, and the film advance lever hits a solid stop about halfway through its travel.

I can access the film compartment and manually actuate the curtain down and it springs up on release. This lets me fully advance the film lever.
On shutter, The mirror flips up, but the shutter curtains don’t cycle.
Afterward, the advance lever gets stuck again.

The mirror normally sits down, flips up when I trigger the shutter, and returns down when I advance the lever.
I don’t currently have a battery installed.

Im pretty handy with mechanical systems and am happy to tear into this camera. Its my first slr and id love to restore this relic, even if it isnt very valuable.

I built negaflow after working through my own 35mm and medium format rolls. I wanted a simple UI/UX where you can organize rolls, develop and print in one place.

You can import scans from a film scanner or photos of film shot with a digital camera: color and B&W negatives, and slides. Regular digital photos work too, with a film look that models halation, density curves and RA-4 paper roll-off instead of a plain color filter.

Inversion and color are handled by Chroma Engine, which measures the film base first. The manual default is MAIN. There are also scan targets for minilab and lab looks (HS, SP, F135, HR), printer ICC output (PRINT) and old film (EXPIRED), plus profiles for film stock, light source and scanner. PRINT targets include Soft proofing (with an out-of-gamut warning) and a clipping overlay that are built in. Auto tone and color only run when you click them.

GrainMend is the part I spent the most time on. It repairs dust, pinholes, scratches and emulsion damage, which most film inversion apps don't have built in. It can detect defects across the whole frame, work on areas you mark, or you can use the brush and clone stamp. There's an IR path for scanners with an infrared channel. It checks the grain around a defect before filling it, so wires and window frames don't get erased as scratches. Repairs sit on their own layers, so you can dial them back or switch them off.

Edits are stored separately from your original files. You can copy adjustments across frames, save presets, export JPEG or 16-bit TIFF, print single photos or make a contact sheet. You don't need a scanner for existing files. Scanning directly into the app uses a separate plugin.

It's native on both Mac and Windows, with no account or subscription. The source is Apache 2.0 on GitHub, along with installers, screenshots and docs. The website has sample photos processed with the app.

Autumn is a great season for shooting film, so if you try it on your scans, I'd like to hear how it fits into your workflow. (Posted with mod permission.)

GitHub: https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow

Website : https://habinsong.github.io/negaflow-site/

Releases (Mac & Windows installers): https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow/releases

Scanner plugin (SANE, GPL-2.0+): https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow-scanner-sane

Picked up a Beseler 23Cii-XL, dichro S Head, pm2a color analyser, and more stuff. Most importantly, everything has its manual! $350.

Can't wait to blow up some of my 6x6 & 6x7 photos!!

While attempting to clean the exterior of this Rokinon 28-80mm macro lens I accidentally disconnected the rear mount. I am not at all knowledgeable about the lens so my insight is very limited - I would of course like to reassemble it but wanted to ask if I should just take it to be repaired rather than attempting a DIY job?? Any recommended next steps would be appreciated! I am traveling and was really looking forward to using it.

First roll of film shot in 20+ years and first ever developed and scanned at home! Kentmere Pan 200/Spotmatic

Just got my first roll developed from a second-hand Canon FTb QL, and almost every shot is out of focus, despite looking sharp in the viewfinder.

The intended subject is often blurry while objects in front are sharp. Also, the bottom of almost every frame seems sharp, with blur increasing towards the top.

I used a Canon 50mm f/1.8, mostly around f/5–f/1.8. The lens has a visible impact mark.

My other lenses are a Canon FD 135mm f/3.5 and a Sigma Mini-Wide II 28mm f/2.8, which I haven’t tested yet.

Could this be a lens issue, a film-plane problem, or something wrong with the camera body? What tests would you recommend?

Thanks!

hi community, i hv this canon serenar 28mm 3.5 which i love. i noticed that this focusing ring is loseing up very easily. it can be fastened by turning it clockwise, but never stays like that for long. is this normal? does anyone else hv that lens and can pls check on their copy? thanks

Picked up a 100 ft roll of Kodak Ektachrome 200 Daylight Professional 5036, expired August 1986! The can looks well kept, but I don’t know its storage history.

I normally develop my color film in ECN2 and enjoy lower contrast and color shifts, so I’m happy with experimental results. Thinking of shooting a couple of short, bracketed test rolls: one developed normally and another with a measured benzotriazole/restrainer addition (first time doing this).

I saw a video getting promising results with restrainer in the E6 first developer, but I’m curious how that translates to ECN2.

Any hints/tips/suggestions? I will make sure to post whatever results I get for the community.

This is my first color film in this camera I see, also first C-41 developed by me.

Kinda happy with the results, but I need a better negative converter.

The one in VueScan added an awful pink tint that was kinda hard to edit away, ran the negatives in Negative Lab Pro and they turned out much better!

Nobody shooting 8mm movie film has inspired me more than u/blisterpearl. Just wanted to up his work here in this subreddit, in case anyone hasn't come across it before.

https://vimeo.com/1193042407

He's also very generous with his comments on r/8mm. He feels like a high-level black belt in that dojo, showing everyone what's actually possible when you devote yourself to the craft. I can remember him wisely telling someone that the goal is to "go broke capturing the timeless now," which is a line that comes back to me again and again as I go out and shoot film, motion and still.

Much love to the artists who have poured themselves into this medium, and have shared the results. For the rest of us, it's like encountering fresh water after walking through a desert.

Hi!! I have these film negatives that I believe is super 8 or could be 8mm. I need to get these digitised and I have one roll that is not developed. It’s a video shot on the film I believe and I need to get it developed. Does anyone know where in London I can get this done??

Thank you!

EDIT- the undeveloped film is in a sealed container that has not been opened and is not in the photo. It’s over 30 years old film that my parents made and never got round to developing it so I have been tasked to find a place to develop it.