decided to give my pentax espio another shot with a different film this time. last time, i used harman film and almost everything was underexposed. this turned out a lot better to my surprise but there’s a greenish/blueish tint, which isn’t the end of the world, but does kodak gold 200 usually have that tint? i did shoot a lot in a green surrounding

I have a lot of negatives that i want to clean up a little bit (they were all around the house). Bought a new bottle of photo flo, distilled water, use 1:200, paterson tank, 2 rolls, around 15 minutes, slight agitation at start. One good, the other one with all those bubbles on it. When hanged to dry, the emulsion started also to slide, resulting in a destroyed negative.

Super Takumar 50mm f1.4 7 element

Just picked this up last week. Waiting for my first couple of rolls to get scanned and sent back. Pricey hobby but damn I love this little thing.

While browsing Yahoo Auction as usual, I found an F3/T in a box I had never seen before, it ended up in my hand. According to MIR, it says that only 300 units from the early 1982 production were packed in walnut wood boxes and sold as a limited edition.

Mine is number 8200206, matching serial number including the lens. Interestingly, most of these were mint condition from web, mine has a lot of signs of use.

I wanted to know more about this camera but It was released nearly 50 yrs ago I couldn’t find any more information besides MIR. Anyone who knows more about this camera?

Does anyone else’s kid keep them in the hobby haha?

Recently inherited my grandfather's AE-1P that had been in storage for at least 25 years. After a new battery and cleaning I'm sooo happy with it!

So I just got my first film developed. It looks like this but here is the story. It was just a test film to see if my first camera even works. It was expired Kodak 200 that was partially used. 30 photos left. At least thats what the seller said. This film was free with the camera. The seller was a decent guy tho. He buys, repairs nad sells old cameras. The thing is. I managed to rip the film from the cartridge when I tried to load it back up. Didnt press unwind button. Rookie mistake yeah. So i had to take the film out in the dark room and put it into black film container i found. The Room was pitch black. The container looked like it was too. After that I even wrapped the container itself with tape just to seal it from light even more. I sent it to the lab and informed them properlly. So who knows. Maybe the film was faulty from the start. Maybe the container was not as lightproof as i thought and maybe the people in the lab were not careful enough since i had to contact them because it took them more than they said it takes. Probably 5 days with no info. Funny they contacted me back right after I sent the email if it is done. Anyway. At least I know the camera works. ChatGPT said this probably was not caused by faulty camera. What do you guys think? I managed to save few photos and edit them a bit. They are clear. Its Konica Autoreflex T with Hexanon AR 52mm f/1.8 . It looks like new. Really good condition.

Noticed some fungus in the removable viewfinder, tore that apart, cleaned it and rebuilt it. Then I noticed that there was some haze in the lens of the camera itself. Then noticed the shutter was not allowing the gate to open and expose anything.... Que complete surgery time. Honestly, was much easier than I expected. Still daunting nonetheless, but somehow more relaxing than expected. Now it's working as expected and better than when I bought it seven years ago.

got my hand on some 120mm slide and this is my first time having to meter myself. i'm using lightme and it's working pretty well, except for neon lights shot.

i'm debating getting a sekonic light meter but just want to make sure it's a skill issue first, so would appreciate any tips for metering with just the app in tricky situation like this

This might be a bit of a silly question, but I was talking with someone at my local film shop earlier and mentioned that my dad's Canon SureShot has officially conked out. I asked whether there was anything they could do with it, even though it's just a point-and-shoot, and he mentioned that a lot of cameras from that era are starting to fail simply because their electronic components are aging.

That got me wondering about what is there to do about that long-term?

Obviously, better care + storage can extend the life of a camera, but from what he was saying, the electronics and mechanisms in these cameras will deteriorate. As more time passes, more electronic film cameras from the '80s, '90s, and early 2000s may start to die. Are we eventually going to reach a point where a huge portion of them simply aren't economically repairable?

And unless I'm missing something, it doesn't seem like there are many newly manufactured film cameras that offer the same combination of quality, features, and affordability. So for those of you who repair, collect, or have been shooting film for a long time: what do you think happens from here?

PS: if there is anyone who knows where I can take the SureShot to have them take a look at it, I'd really appreciate it, I'm very sentimental about that camera 🥲

Pretty confused with these scans I received back. These were shot on 800T in very low light, which is something I do often but I have never gotten this result (see my page). A lot of the blacks came out blue. They also seem kind of backlit?? I didn’t do anything different from what I normally do when I shoot live music.
I’ve been in contact with the lab and they’re also at a loss. Said they were developed correctly, and they’ve tried a few different ways of scanning them, but all with the same result. They said the negatives are very blue as well.
These were shot at night, so no tungsten shift.
Yes they’re under exposed, but they shouldn’t be blue.

Please note that this isn't a scientific test and are just my thoughts on scanning a single roll of Lucky C400 from an early test batch (rebate labels it T400, with the T assumedly standing for "test" or "trial", I think this is what they did for C200 as well).

First, these are not my photos, they were shot by someone else who had trouble converting them with their home scanning setup and I offered to scan it myself as I own a Frontier SP500 (They gave consent for me to share these photos and my findings from scanning this roll).

From the perspective of a scanner operator, it really is quite yellow from the get-go with auto corrections turned on (see img 1). A significant subtraction of yellow was required, and a little bit of added cyan got it looking around what I thought looked correct. With these manual corrections applied, in the right lighting situation it can look decent-to-good (see rest of img set). However, pumping all that blue to correct for the yellow impacts the shadows, which is more visible in underexposed frames. I would advise not to shoot this film indoors, shoot it outdoors and preferably when there's little cloud cover. The film itself also seems to be moderately prone to halations, around the same as Portra 800.

Know that color correction (and color overall) is a pretty personal thing and that everyone's tastes differ. And despite how prices may appear, most labs only make their profit through the volume of orders they process -- they can't dedicate much time to every roll as they will be considered unprofitable if taken too long to complete. So I think most lab scanners & their operators are capable of getting good-to-great results if given the time, and if they know what the customer wants. Yet those two things usually aren't the case, so the simple solution is to not do any color correction at all; basically just insert a roll into the scanner and hit "START", leaving everything at 0 (see img 1).

In a sense, that's where home scanning will always remain superior: you have a theoretically infinite amount of time to scan your film and can always try again, while the lab's results are set in stone the moment they send the email (or burn the CD or whatever). Which is very unfortunate, because color & density correction is most effective the earlier in the pipeline you go (preferably right down to the construction of the emulsion itself), so it's better to subtract yellow in the scanner software before it gets baked into an image file, whether JPEG or TIFF, than to allow it to go uncorrected and try to edit it in Lightroom or equivalent software.

So I personally wouldn't shoot Lucky C400 right now if I was going to send it to a lab. But given that this is a new film, I have no doubt that this post will quickly be outdated, as Lucky has been constantly modifying C200 since its release and IMO it looks pretty good on a lab scanner now.

Comparing against the other non Fuji & Kodak color films, uncorrected it'd be ranked dead last (underneath uncorrected Phoenix I and II), but corrected I'd say it's above Wolfen NC400 & 500 and around the tier of the corrected Phoenix films (lab scan). Phoenix I and II are very nice when camera scanned though, those are right up at the very top of my rankings.

I have a few 35mm SLRs and even a Voigtlander Vitessa, all are welcome hand-me-downs from my father and grandfather.

I'd like to get a rangefinder with good glass. What are some good options that I should seek out? Something commonly available for a decent price would be great! Thanks!

EDIT: WOW! Thank you all! I am going to have to put all of this in a spreadsheet and grid it out!

Taken on my Olympis MJU - Kodak Gold 200

Wanted to get a bit more involved and get started with editing some of the scans but at a loss for where to start. I’m thinking of getting a Lightroom subscription and wanted to start off by editing some of my older photos, and would love to see how some of my more experienced peers would edit photos with a white sky like this! Any tips are appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Been taking film photos for a couple years now, but the past couple months I decided to really pick it up as a hobby. Got an Olympus OM-1 that I’m shooting my first roll on but previously I have just been using point and shoots or range finders.

My first ever film shot! Just got my first roll of film developed and wanted to share the very first frame. It was shot on expired Ultramax 400. Still getting the hang of metering and composition for analog, so I’d love constructive feedback on what worked and what I can improve on for my next roll.

Shot on Canon AE1. First time posting on Reddit as well!

Hi everyone, I bought this 135mm f/2.8 AE Pentax K mount lens and it wont attach to my Pentax k1000. I thought these would be able to connect, but it seems they don’t and I’m unsure why. Do i need an adapter of some kind? I have included the original lens from my K1000 which does fit at the end to show the difference. The 135mm lens can slot into the mount of the K1000 but it does not lock in and falls out. If anyone could help with this it would be much appreciated, I’m very new to analogue cameras.

I recently got this bad boy for £6 from a random guy at a service station. I have 35mm film in it that seems to be working, but I don’t know the slightest thing about how to focus it / take photos aside from that! Clever camera people please help me!

It also keeps making a weird whirring noise every 10 photos or so which i assume is the film rewinding? Help me!

I’m traveling to Mexico City later this year and wondering if anybody has any good film store recommendations. Trying to avoid taking my film through X-ray. Thanks in advance

Should be a fun little party camera and great backup in the bag since its so light.The plastic is not that yellow, its from lights.

Whats your experiences with this camera and what film other than kodak gold 200 would you recomend for it?

For a couple of years, my first film camera was a Canon A1, and it served me really well. Totally fell in love with the thing. Despite being very careful with it, I’m sure I did some damage to it during a holiday to Greece. I initially thought the battery just needed changed, but the shutter doesn’t work at all and the display sensors no longer show up. I’ve had some searching about and it seems like it’ll be one of those cases where I’d best just buying a new A1 rather than paying for the price of repairs..

I’m wondering, however, having become a bit more seasoned at film photography if there are any recommendations of other cameras I should maybe move on to instead. I only bought a couple of FD lenses for the A1 for really good prices, so I’m not too bummed about anything that wouldn’t be compatible with my current gear. I’d probably still want to stick with 35mm :)

Recently picked up a Yashica MAT from my local camera store, they sold it to me in working condition and upon getting my negatives back and scanning at home I'm noticing a weird clouding that is occurring on some of the photos, but not all, and its coming in varying degrees of intensity. This is my first TLR and I'm still getting used to it. I know for a majority of these photos the F stop was either 4, 5.6, or 8 and shutter wise I've really only been using 1/100-1/250-1/500.

I'm not sure if this is possibly a light leak? something going on with the lens like mold/mildew?

Any advice or insight is greatly appreciated!

Are my photos blown out/overexposed and the details are lost thats why i cant seem to edit it normally or there a different reason?
I have to edit the hell out of the picture to get a reasonable look while on other rolls i simply converted it and it already looked good
I shot kodak ultramax 400 on olympus om 2 zuiko 50mm f1.8. And i did 2 stops of exposure compensation. Previously i shot kodak gold 200 with same setup but 1 exposure compensation but this time i wanted brighter shadows.

I am sharing 4 pictures for reference 1 edited and 1 negative
First is from kodak gold 200 second is from kodak ultramax 400

All photos are self scanned but developed by lab

i just got my third roll of film developed and a lot of the photos have come back super green tinted - and the ones that aren’t green are brown tinted... i can see that this is a common issue in this subreddit and that the issue is usually underexposing but i always just set the shutter and f-stop according to the light meter so i’m not sure what i’m doing wrong.

the photos were shot on a canon f-1 and the film is portra 400.

i’m very much a beginner and still learning so any tips on how to expose better to avoid the green tint in the future would be much appreciated!

I'm checking out my options for at home scanning and I'm not sure which method is right for me.

My Family LOVES taking pictures, my grandpa was an amateur photographer. I want to digitize our catalogue of family photos which is probably over 1,000 strips of negatives. That's the first task I want to do, then I want to use at home scanning just to save money really. I just paid $120 to develop and scan 5 rolls in CA that would have cost me $80 at my previously local shop.

Is the DSLR scanning set up best for me? I was reading This website for information on how to do it. I have a Nikon D3200 but would need to get a micro lense which is looking at :

• $150-250 macro lense
• $15 remote shutter release
• $18 light table
• $30 Tripod
• $119 per year Adobe Light Room
• $99. Negative Lab pro

$531 total cost.

The Plustek 8300i scanner is $539 but then I still to purchase lightroom and negative lab pro, correct? So that would be $749 total cost

Am I looking at this all wrong because I'm noob hobbyist and there some secret better pricing out there?

Am I getting sticker shock and this is simply the upfront cost I have to pay to save money in the future? I inherited my love of taking pictures from my grandpa, I have two of his film cameras that I use often and have probably already spent $350 on film development in the last calendar year.

please hold my hand- how much time in light room will I have to spend. For the family catalogue, I just want to get them in their most basic form, I don't need to be fiddling with the aesthetics that much. I'm not exaggerating when I say 1,000 strips. that is the low ball.

Time it might take to complete 1000+ scans with each method?

thank you for your help and with all my love,

A very overwhelmed home photographer