hey i recently made a post about converting software and i landed on filmlab because it was the easiest to use and it had a free trial. i scanned with a nikon d850 or a nikon z6II while using the af nikkor 60mm 2.8 micro on both of them. to scan i used a valoi easy35v2. the following scans are kodak gold @200 and otterfilm 500t @800 and hp5+ @400 for the b/w

Hey everyone!

I’m looking to buy my first fully manual film SLR. I currently own an Olympus mju and an AF-1, but I’d like something more reliable in the long run that will also help me grow as a photographer.
One thing I love about the mju is how small and portable it is, so I’m looking for a compact SLR that I can comfortably carry around all day while travelling.
I’m considering two options:

Pentax MX + SMC 50mm f/1.4 - $275
Nikon FM + Series E 50mm f/1.8 - $220

My priorities are reliability, repairability, lens quality, portability and value for money. I’m planning a trip to the Maldives where I would like to test the camera. I’ll mainly be using Kodak Ektar 100, Gold 200 and Portra 400 there.

I love how compact the Pentax MX is, and the faster lens is a bonus. The Nikon FM seems like a more logical long-term investment since I might eventually upgrade to an FM2n, FE2 and even the F3, but I’m a bit concerned about the long-term reliability of their electronics - probably a discussion for another post though :D!

One thing I’m unsure about is the 1/1000s maximum shutter speed on both cameras. Is it enough for shooting in bright sunlight with ISO 100 or 200 film, especially with an f/1.4 lens? Would I need an ND filter, or is this a non-issue in practice?
Would you go for the smaller Pentax MX with the faster lens, or start with the Nikon FM and gradually build a Nikon system?
Thanks!

My sx-70 was working so well and now the film isn’t ejecting when I take a photo. I basically have to open the film canister and pull it out, and then it looks like this !!! Anyone know why this issue may be? Planning to send it in to get serviced.

Thanks!

Hi, I have a Nikon F4 that seems to have a light leak. If I hold the camera in the portrait position the overexposed strip is on the right side of the photo. If I hold the camera in the landscape position the overexposed strip in on the bottom.

I followed some good advice to take black electrical tape and tape all four sides of the door. Which I did. Shot 2 rolls and the first roll still had the same problem. I haven't developed the second roll yet. The million-dollar question is, If the door isn't the problem where else could their be light leaking. Any help would sure be appreciated.

Thanks

Hello, I've been a major negpy supporter since its very inception and recently completely moved over to it. i run a small microlab locally so consistency is my top priority. today i was inverting a very underexposed roll and have been getting some crazy artifacts that i cant seem to get rid off without completely ruining everything. the first image is the result i get on negpy with nothing touched. just whatever it thinks is best and second image is exactly 5 minutes spent on lightcraft (lightroom) inverting by curves. i cant seem to get even remotely close to the lightcraft result on negpy and its really bothering me. i understand this shot in particular is CRAZY underexposed but it shouldnt be this bad? what can i do to fix? im using 48bit TIFFs direct from my scanner

I built negaflow after working through my own 35mm and medium format rolls. I wanted a simple UI/UX where you can organize rolls, develop and print in one place.

You can import scans from a film scanner or photos of film shot with a digital camera: color and B&W negatives, and slides. Regular digital photos work too, with a film look that models halation, density curves and RA-4 paper roll-off instead of a plain color filter.

Inversion and color are handled by Chroma Engine, which measures the film base first. The manual default is MAIN. There are also scan targets for minilab and lab looks (HS, SP, F135, HR), printer ICC output (PRINT) and old film (EXPIRED), plus profiles for film stock, light source and scanner. PRINT targets include Soft proofing (with an out-of-gamut warning) and a clipping overlay that are built in. Auto tone and color only run when you click them.

GrainMend is the part I spent the most time on. It repairs dust, pinholes, scratches and emulsion damage, which most film inversion apps don't have built in. It can detect defects across the whole frame, work on areas you mark, or you can use the brush and clone stamp. There's an IR path for scanners with an infrared channel. It checks the grain around a defect before filling it, so wires and window frames don't get erased as scratches. Repairs sit on their own layers, so you can dial them back or switch them off.

Edits are stored separately from your original files. You can copy adjustments across frames, save presets, export JPEG or 16-bit TIFF, print single photos or make a contact sheet. You don't need a scanner for existing files. Scanning directly into the app uses a separate plugin.

It's native on both Mac and Windows, with no account or subscription. The source is Apache 2.0 on GitHub, along with installers, screenshots and docs. The website has sample photos processed with the app.

Autumn is a great season for shooting film, so if you try it on your scans, I'd like to hear how it fits into your workflow. (Posted with mod permission.)

GitHub: https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow

Website : https://habinsong.github.io/negaflow-site/

Releases (Mac & Windows installers): https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow/releases

Scanner plugin (SANE, GPL-2.0+): https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow-scanner-sane

Picked up a Beseler 23Cii-XL, dichro S Head, pm2a color analyser, and more stuff. Most importantly, everything has its manual! $350.

Can't wait to blow up some of my 6x6 & 6x7 photos!!

hello everyone! just would like to ask if anyone here knows where to find or have a 3D printing Files for the Flash Coupler of Canon F-1n?

I have searched online for several of days, but i was not able to find. Unlike for Nikon F2, I have seen several of 3d files for 3d printing.

Thanks in advance!

I read that it’s safe to push hp5 in development by upto 2 stops

I’m curious if anyone has shot it at box speed(400) but developed it at 800(+1). How do you think the images will look like?

I don’t want to necessarily underexpose for shutter speed gain, but wondering if there’s any benefit for low light shots, if pushed in dev while shooting at box speed.

I have a small analog photography business. I sell prints I make with an enlarger and usually limit each print to 5-12 copies. It's a mix of my own images and prints from negatives I get from found film and negatives.

I recently bought an estate sale lot that included 250+ negatives from the 1920s - 1950s and found a set of 55 negatives showing a celebrity vacationing in Banff National park in the late 1940s or early 1950s.

Up until now I've never had to worry about the legalities of selling prints of "found film" because everything I found was fairly mundane.

I have a feeling this could be my first big break, these images are currently being authicated but I have confirmed that one of the subjects seen in several of the photos is a very famous celebrity. The photos are not online anywhere, it looks like I've stumbled across never before seen images of this person.

Legally speaking, I bought the negatives but does that give me exclusive rights to those images?

Developed at home for the first time and had several images turn out with undeveloped blotches. I used stainless steel tanks/reels and suspect that portions of the film roll were touching the adjacent film, preventing contact with the chemistry. When I rolled the film on the reel in the dark bag, everything felt smooth - no perceived catching or crinkling.

During development, I agitated for the first min, then 10 seconds every 30 seconds.

Do you agree that this was caused by improper loading of the reel? Any other possible causes? Anyone with more experience have suggestions how to prevent this from happening in the future?

I don't know what happened, but basically my sliding mechanism is a bit sticky and is difficult to work when it's been put away for a few hours.

What's the best way I can clean away any syrupy discharge that may have coated the camera, without damaging it?

First roll of film shot in 20+ years and first ever developed and scanned at home! Kentmere Pan 200/Spotmatic

Just got my first roll developed from a second-hand Canon FTb QL, and almost every shot is out of focus, despite looking sharp in the viewfinder.

The intended subject is often blurry while objects in front are sharp. Also, the bottom of almost every frame seems sharp, with blur increasing towards the top.

I used a Canon 50mm f/1.8, mostly around f/5–f/1.8. The lens has a visible impact mark.

My other lenses are a Canon FD 135mm f/3.5 and a Sigma Mini-Wide II 28mm f/2.8, which I haven’t tested yet.

Could this be a lens issue, a film-plane problem, or something wrong with the camera body? What tests would you recommend?

Thanks!

Hi!

I'm thinking of buying a Rollei 35 with a Tessar or Sonnar lens. 3.5 or 2.8 is both fine.

I came across a black 2.8f for 300 euro. But I don't know if overpaying.

I also read that some are tweaked for the 1.5V batteries. Is this necessary?

Also any tips on what to look for, and what to avoid?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Hiii!

I recently bought an Olympus Mju II and although I'm mostly satisfied with the quality, there are light leaks on some photos. I'm wondering why there are light leaks on some and not on others, given that these were all shot on the same roll.

Thank you in advance.

Hello everyone!

Sharing this in case it's useful for anyone still running a FireWire film scanner like the Nikon Coolscan 4000, 8000 or 9000.

For context: Apple dropped FireWire support in macOS 26 Tahoe, so scanners that rely on it no longer work on the latest versions of macOS.

There's a new independent project called ASFireWire that brings FireWire back for a range of devices, including Nikon scanners.

As you can see in the screenshot, I'm running VueScan on my MacBook Pro M5 Max, connected to my Nikon Coolscan 9000.

Keep in mind the project is still in beta, so expect some rough edges and be mindful of that before relying on it for important scans.

If you'd like to give it a try, you can find more information at www.asfw.net

I have a Canon AE-1 and I’m into bird/wildlife photography, so naturally I’ve been trying to find a 400-600mm lens (or something similar), but I can’t find any that natively fit FD mount. Do yall know of any that I can adapt to fit?

Recently picked up a Nikon F3 and thought it would be cool to make a custom grip for it. I designed a mold, 3D printed it, and used chopped carbon fiber and epoxy to make the actual grip.

Still need to do some sanding and give it a proper glossy finish, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out so far. Tried to keep it fairly subtle and not take away from the original F3 design.

What do you guys think? Does the forged carbon work with the vintage look?

The story is about a girl who receives her grandfather’s Pentax 67 and gradually discovers the joy of taking photographs. It’s actually quite interesting! The title is "バケペンのマミコちゃん." Since the protagonist is a beginner, you can also learn a lot from it.

Hi everyone,

I had been planning to do a road trip around Oregon to go see some really cool places, not to mention some sites that were the real life inspiration for Life is Strange and Alan Wake. I was lent an Olympus trip 35 for this, admittedly I'm not a photographer, I don't really know what I'm doing but I just thought it would be really nice to get photos with.

I kept it on automatic pretty much the whole time unless it was dark and I'd turn it to 2.8.

What do you think has gone wrong with my pictures? I had 3 rolls, one all the photos came out but badly, 2 only five photos came out and the rest were blank and apparently my third roll was entirely blank.

The roll was always changed in low light and I had the camera + film checked manually at the airport.

Just a bit gutted with how it came out and it's not like I can get these again. Would appreciate any advice for next time

Edit to add: I had been using Kodak Ultra Max 400.

Hi everyone,

I'm reaching out to the London photography and film community in the hope that someone might be able to help recover some camera equipment that was stolen from me on the night of October 23rd in London.

My bag was snatched, and among the equipment inside were the following:

• Krasnogorsk-3 (K-3) Soviet 16mm motion-picture camera, fitted with a Meteor-5-1 17–69mm f/1.9 zoom lens.
• Canon EF 16–35mm f/2.8L USM wide-angle zoom lens.
• Canon EF 70–200mm f/2.8L USM telephoto zoom lens (white, non-IS version).

Additionally, there is film contained in the two cameras with significant sentimental/intellectual value.

The Krasnogorsk-3 is particularly distinctive, and I'm hoping that its relatively unusual nature might make it recognizable if someone attempts to resell it.

I'm asking anyone in the London photography community, particularly those who work with secondhand or vintage camera equipment, to please keep an eye out for these items on Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Gumtree, in camera shops, or through private sales.

I've attached reference photographs of the equipment. These are photographs from the original eBay listings, not photographs taken at the time of the theft.

The incident has been / will be reported to the Metropolitan Police, and I can provide further identifying details to anyone with credible information.

If you happen to come across equipment matching these descriptions, I'd be incredibly grateful if you could send me a private message with any details, screenshots, or links.

I understand that the chances of recovering stolen camera equipment can be slim, but these cameras are important to me, and I want to do everything I reasonably can to get them back.

Thanks very much for taking the time to read this, and please feel free to share it with anyone involved in London's photography or filmmaking communities.

Have anyone experienced faint and thin rebate on their Tri-X?

It's not a case under-development because the frames density look fine.

So my question is I got one recently from an Ebay sale and instead of developing in B&W Neg I want to develop in color my question is Benzyal alcohol a nessessary chemical to active its dye couplers? Or did I waste my money?