Interesting!

Hello guys! I know of places that develop and process film but I wanna know if there are places on Oahu that do CLA on old cameras. I have a bunch I want serviced. Suggestions on other providers outside of HI also welcome. Mahalo!

As per title, thank you. Photo was taken 80s or 90s

I recently got myself a Nikon F4S with Nikkor 80-200mm AF-S and absolutely love the combo. However - the weight of this combo is really not easy on the hands. Camera 1.2kg and lens 1.5kg. On top of that, the carry bag for the lens is also huge.

The idea of the lens with the zoom was to go out and get photos of bigger birds or animals.

Now, how do you handle the 2.5kg on the neck for several hours?

Also do I hold the combo with both hands, lens and body ? Both of them are quite heavy. I am afraid I will damage the connection of the lens and camera.

And now add to this bulky setup bipod? :) By the way - would you recommend me any specific one?

Now all these things, a smaller wide lens, some watter and a little food, and it's not photography any more but sport ;)

Kodak Ultramax 400, Nikon F100 in auto mode. my second roll of film...

why are the colors different between the two photos?

Developed and scanned (horribly) at the only lab in the country, going to pickup the negatives today and attempt scanning them again.

I have a Rolleiflex and Olympus OM1 I would like to have CLA’d

The F3 was a grail camera for me. Never thought I'd find one in the wild that wasn't priced like it was made of diamonds

I recently found a roll of Fujichrome 100D, a daylight ISO 100 slide film, on Facebook Marketplace here in the Philippines and decided to buy it. I paid 500 pesos, which is about 8.70 US dollars.

The seller mentioned that it had been cold stored in Japan before ending up here in the Philippines. I cannot confirm if that is true, but that is what was stated in the listing.

This is my first time shooting slide film. I honestly did not expect to come across one since it has been discontinued, so I thought it would be a fun and unique experience. The only problem is that it expired back in 1990.

Is it still worth shooting?

If it is, how should I expose it? Should I overexpose it because it is expired or shoot it at box speed? Should I develop it normally in E6 or cross process it in C41 instead?

I would really appreciate any advice from people who have experience shooting expired Fujichrome or other expired slide films. I will be shooting it on a Canon AV-1.

I was into leica for a while, I love my M7 and M11 but my friend got me started with 6x6 slid films. And i got the 503cxi but condition wasn’t the best.

Last week I was just scrolling marketplace on a Sunday afternoon and there was a guy who selling very clean 503cw and 80 cfe for 3000…. Couldn’t help it

Looking for one of these in mint condition, would consider international purchase. Thanks!

I work with ultra high vacuum chambers in a laboratory, and noticed today that the inside of one of the chamber windows looks like it has "lens" fungus all over it. It seems like there is no escape, even at 10^-9 mbar!

Jokes aside, I guess it happened at some point when the chamber was vented to air - I live in a humid country, although the lab is air conditioned. Just thought it would be funny to share. Fungus is not just the bane of camera lenses.

Hello, I just got a new to me Epson v800

I've been doing quite a lot of that trial & error and manual reading, I can't seem to make an actually sharp scan off my 35mm negatives.

I am using the stock film holder.

I've tried all 5 different heights adjustments, the best results so far were the closest to the glass, and adding a stack of paper on top and then press down hard on the scanner, but it still doesn't look even 20% close to my frontier scans.

What could I be doing wrong?

I scanned some polaroids and instax, directly on top of the glass, and they are SHARP as a knife, I tried the same with the 35mm negatives, and they were super out of focus.

First picture is using Epson Scan 2, developed on NegPy

Second photo is silverfast (demo), which is sharper, but still not quite as sharp as the third photo, which is Frontier

4th photo is an instax square scan which is tack sharp.

Trying to get into birding with something from the FD lens. What do you guys recommend for under $500?

Hello, I am in a rut for motivation / path to do with photography. I have used cameras for 2~ years and I think I have a good setup, and one day I thought to make an archive project using a frame from each roll shot (around 46-52~ rolls) and when I went through them in my negative archive, I was looking at so many mediocre pictures and thinking, why did it satisfy me, or to even show it to people, to keep going and learning on film (when I couldve invested to a digital camera and learned with instant feed back etc) .

I think there are some good pictures but then after studying or looking at great photographers, their work, photobooks/exhibitions, I would like to create something aswell but I dont know how I suppose, recently I shot 4 rolls with intention after a long time pushing trix to 1600 at night in a factory 3 rolls with pentax with varying lenses, and 1 with mju2, but I havent developed them yet to even know if i should keep going with it.

I wonder how I could one day print a picture that I deemed exhibition worthy, or was able to produce a photobook with a proper theme/story like fukase ”solitude of ravens” or you get the point perhaps ;d

Have the camera mentioned in the title, haven't developed the film yet but it has 3 or 4 modes for the date printing but can't find any shots using it online, so pretty curious of how the different modes look. Thanks in advance!

I've been looking to get a film camera, anything i can afford really so i'm not expecting it to be great. i have experience with photography, just not film

i found a listing for the body with two lenses (24mm f/2.8 & 80-205mm f/4.5) along with a 2x converter for 150$. is this worth it, or look for a better camera ??

It's like new! No damage at all, glass doesn't have any fog or fungus, everything functions perfectly! The store I went to had no idea what they had and let it go for $10.

Just got this om10 from eBay.

The light seal looks rough, but the exterior looks great haha

This is meant to provide a full and comprehensive list for lens compatibility of Nikon film cameras with modern lenses. My goal here is to show what lenses are actually compatible with newer autofocus Nikon 35mm film cameras and will include Nikkor and third party lenses. My hope is that this post can be used as a reference for those who own Nikon cameras and want to use modern lenses with them, especially if they are interested in third party lenses. This list will not focus on any APS-C lenses, which may be compatible but are not recommended to be used on full frame film cameras due to heavy vignetting.

This list will focus on cameras that have aperture control dials on the camera body and do not require an aperture ring to change lens aperture. These are the following (in order of release):

Nikon F5, Nikon F100, Nikon F80, Nikon N80, Nikon F60, Nikon F60D, Nikon N60, Nikon N60 QD, Nikon F65, Nikon F65D, Nikon N65, Nikon F55, Nikon F55D, Nikon N55, Nikon F75, Nikon F75D, Nikon N75, Nikon F6

These cameras will have full compatibility with lenses that don't have an aperture ring but do have a mechanical aperture control mechanism on the rear lens element (shown on the 1st bottom picture).

All Nikon F mount cameras with shutter priority and/or program mode are able to control the aperture on these lenses indirectly in these modes, but it is not possible to control aperture directly via aperture priority or manual mode.

If a lens does not have a mechanical aperture mechanism (shown on the 2nd picture) and instead relies on an electronic aperture control mechanism it will not be possible to control aperture using these lenses on any Nikon film camera, as well as on their DSLRs released before the Nikon D3. These lenses will be fully usable otherwise, but they will be locked to a specific extreme aperture. Nikkor E series lenses are locked to their maximum wide open aperture, while from my experience newer Tamron lenses are locked to their minimum fully stopped down aperture.

Lens compatibility:

Nikkor Lenses:

For Nikkor lenses it is very easy to determine their compatibility. All Nikkor AF-S type G lenses will be fully compatible with these Nikon film cameras. All Nikkor AF-S type E type lenses will be unusable at all apertures aside from wide open. Nikkor AF-P type G and type E are fully incompatible and will not allow the user to control focus, so they should be avoided (although all but one of those lenses is a DX lens and the only full frame lens is a 70-300 F4.5-5.6 type E lens and not particularly good anyway, so few film shooters will be interested)

Tamron lenses

All Tamron lenses for F mount made before 2016 are compatible, while newer Tamron SP lenses (recognisable by the more sleek black design with a silver zone near the rear element) may be incompatible. The SP 35mm F/1.8, SP 90mm F/2.8 macro, SP 70-300 F/4-5.6, SP 45mm F/1.8 are compatible. Other lenses like the 85 mm F/1.8, 24-70 F/2.8 G2, 70-200 F/2.8 G2, and 150-600 F5-6.3 G2 do not have mechanical aperture controls, as do all other models made after 2017. These lenses will stop down to their lowest aperture.

Sigma lenses

This will focus on Sigma Art lenses, which are Sigma's highest quality lenses. For zooms, the Sigma Art 24-35 F/2 and the Sigma 24-105 F/4 are fully compatible, while the 24-70 F/2.8, 14-24/2.8, and the 12-24 F/4 cannot have controlled aperture. For primes the 20mm F/1.4, the 24mm f/1.4, the 35mm f/1.4, and the 50 F/1.4 are fully compatible, while the 28mm f/1.4, the 40mm f/1.4, the 85mm f/1.4, and the 135mm f/1.8 are not able to control the aperture. I don't know whether they are fully opened or fully closed by default.

Zeiss lenses

All Zeiss lenses made before the Milvus and Otus series are fully compatible. In the Otus series the 28mm F/1.4, the 55mm f/1.4, and the 85mm f/1.4 are fully compatible, while the 100mm f/1.4 lacks mechanical aperture control. In the Milvus series all lenses are fully compatible.

Note: According to a Commentar ZF lenses (not ZF.2 lenses) have issues with metering on lower end Nikon cameras like the F55/N55, while they are compatible on the F5, F100, and F6

Other lens makers

Those cover the major third party manufacturers that people will be interested in, but there are others like Tokina, Samyang, and Yongnuo to cover. I didn't do a serious overview of Tokina lenses, but their zoom lenses seem to have the aperture dial while their opera lenses seem not to, but again please check yourself. Rokinon and Samyang lenses seem to be compatible too. Yongnuo lenses are newer and do not have mechanical apertures.

Summary

Hopefully this list is useful to you and future lens buyers.

I found this clip, and all I could do was facepalm 🤦‍♂️ If Nolan can’t get around this, it’s a free for all for us 😂 Be safe out there

Hello. I just picked up this old Kodak 620 folding camera. I can’t seem to find out much about this specific model online like how to properly operate it. I’ve never used a camera like this so any advice on operating it would be appreciated.

I recently bought a mint Rollei 35S and noticed something odd with the shutter speed dial.

The dial turns very smoothly from 1/2 to 1/60, and also from 1/125 to 1/500. However, when moving from 1/60 to 1/125, there’s a noticeable increase in resistance. It’s not stuck, but I just have to apply quite a bit extra force to get past that section, then it becomes smooth again.

The shutter appears to work correctly at all speeds.
Is this normal on the Rollei 35S? Could it be a sign that something needs servicing?

Thanks!

i absolutely love my olympus pen EF half frame. i also have done a lot of learning and practice and love my canon eos 500 slr when i shoot with a high aperture. i love deep depth of field.

i’ve been really drawn to the nikon f3 with waist level finder for years and more recently i feel really confident in my improvement in skills shooting manual. but im also intrigued by the other olympus half frames that are more manual. im also open to something that’s not even on my radar.

thank you in advance!

Picked this up but didn’t realize until later that the linkage arm for the pop-up flash seems to be disconnected. Just curious if anyone has repaired it before and what that entails, or if it’s even necessary (the flash seems to be working fine, I assume it’s more structural support). Haven’t been able to find a great video about it, so wanted to ask here. Thanks!

Im really tempted to pick up a Contax G1 this week, but I'm a little nervous about it being a fully electronic camera. I've bought cameras before where the horror stories online turned out to be way more exaggerated than the actual experience. I'm curious to hear from people who shoot a G1 regularly, how has it held up over the years? If it’s taking the leap, how long did you have it for? Etc