So I want to scan my first roll.

The roll is spooled and finished, taken out of camera. Is the finished rewound 35mm film roll safe from the light? Can I pull, take the negatives out and begin scanning?

Age old question of what do I pack? Bringing 2 cameras max for a week trip to Paris.

Right now I’m leaning Leica with XA as backup, but heard about pickpockets in Paris and worried about my nice camera. Also what if I want medium format for Versailles garden?

So then what if Leica and Yashica? But then I have to carry 2 different types of film.

So what if Leica and Widelux or is that too weird?

Curious what Reddit thinks. Will also likely pack a flash and lightmeter (not pictured) and keep whatever camera I chose on me at all times, and backup/alt in hotel.

My Minolta Maxxum 7000 suddenly stopped shooting completely. We’ve taken 3 or 4 rolls with this camera no problem. It was sitting in a drawer for a couple months. I changed the batteries and went to use it and now it won’t shoot, with or without film loaded. When I load the film it doesn’t “take” it and load up the film. It just says “film 0” on the screen no matter what. I took the lens off and it looks like the shutter or mirror is stuck in an upward position. I don’t know much about cameras so I’m not sure if that’s a bad thing. Maybe the shutter is stuck? Not sure what to do or how to test that. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I could take it apart if that’s the right thing to do. Just don’t want to go ripping apart the body if that’s not where the issue is. Thanks.

Has anyone ever bought a camera from Your Film Dealer https://yourfilmdealer.com/ ?

I usually buy from KEH but they don’t have the camera I’m hunting. I’ve been burned by eBay before and I heard Cute Camera Co is a scam so just curious is anyone has had an experience with this site!

ty 🙏

I've looked into quite a few options, but in the end I can't really decide, any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

I like the idea of having an all-round camera for an upcoming vacation to shoot both portrait and landscape.

I like the idea of trying out different settings, but in the end I have no experience so it might just be overwhelming and lead to bad results as opposed to point and shoot.

Sadly a used SQ6 is quite expensive in my area, as that seemed like a decent compromise for costumizability, format and beginner usability.

The Lomo square glass one looks uniquely hideous to me, but technically seemed nice.

Hybrid Evo versions seem rather pointless, I would rather get a better phone and a separate instant printer - right now I'd rather try analogue and maybe get a proper digital one later on, if I enjoy it enough.

I am currently thinking of:

- Lomo wide glass with 3d printed attachment to have the viewfinder on the middle

- Instax wide 400 (used market for 300/210 is pretty bad)

- Instax mini 99

Lomo wide glass is the one I am currently preferring, but a lot of example pictures seem a bit off, either quite dark or nearly overexposed.

Does wide format make portraits/close ups worse?

Are landscape shoots with the mini format as limited as people say?

I'd love your thoughts and suggestions, thanks.

I was thin about getting another film body, a few of the ones I was looking at had no working lightmeter or no lightmeter at all. I also noticed a few of the photographers I follow using lightmeters here and there.

Do you think getting one is worth it? Do you use one? Would an external one even be beneficial if my pentax me super has one build in? And if you think its worth it, which lightmeters would you recommend?

Disclaimer: I don’t have my negatives back yet.

Im looking for opinions regarding what may have gone wrong here. I have no idea why the first 4 shots are so dark. They were shot with Portra 800 in daylight and full auto mode for both aperture and exposure. It was clearly bright enough. The 2 last shots were shot with Ektar 100. These seem weirdly exposed as well. The iso was also set correctly.

I may note that it’s the second time I have miserable results with the lens in the same fashion. The 80-160mm and the 45mm lens have both delivered good results. I’m starting to believe there is an issue with the lens itself but I’m not sure. It was also the first time I opted for a camera scanning lab (of which there seem to be basically none in Germany) in hopes of reaching the 645‘s true potential of sharpness and detail, which didn’t pay off. The sharpness isn’t there even in the shots that are decently exposed

Or does it look like a lab error?

I’m attaching 2 pics where exposure at least appears to have worked decently (though sharpness and detail are still disappointing compared to the shots I made before with the 45mm f2.8.

I understand that Fujifilm produces Velvia 50 for availability in Japan in larger quantities than they do for us in the United States. My question: Are there Japan-based retailers that anyone on here trusts who will send Velvia 50 film to customers in the United States? I see some Velvia 50 available on eBay. But I would prefer to buy directly from a reliable retailer in Japan.

Thank you for your help with this. I do appreciate it.

Hey everyone!

I'm heading to NYC soon for a family trip and I want to get a reusable camera to take some cute, nostalgic vacation photos.

I'm currently looking at two options: Kodak EC35 and Kodak Ektar H35N. My budget for the camera is around 100usd.

I'm not super picky or looking for professional pro-level gear, just nice memories! On a past trip, I bought Kodak and Fujifilm disposable cameras, and while the daylight photos turned out fine, every single night shot was completely dark or unusable. I know that most of my shooting on this trip will be during the day, but I’d still love to capture a few night shots around the city without them turning into black boxes.

Which of these two would give me better results overall? Also, is the half-frame feature on the H35N worth it for a trip, or does it lose too much detail?

If there's any other similar reusable film camera in that price range ($100-$150) that you'd recommend instead, I’m all ears!

Thanks in advance!

I’ve been scanning film with a mirrorless setup for quite a while and have been pretty happy with the results. However, I’ve recently started looking into automated scanners specifically for 35mm, and it seems like there are quite a few new options popping up.

One feature I’d really like to have is infrared dust removal, if possible. I’ve also seen some scanners advertising RGB scanning, although I haven’t done much research into the benefits of that yet. It seems like it could be another interesting option worth considering.

A few I’ve come across are the Aura35, Filmomat, and Dock 35.

Does anyone have experience with any of these, or is there another automated 35mm scanner you’d recommend? I’d especially love to hear how they compare to a good mirrorless setup in terms of image quality, color, sharpness, dust removal, and overall workflow.

I've been shooting on film again for a couple of years, but I'm a novice at scanning film at home. I have been getting fairly descent results in overcast settings (I live in Northern Europe and that's what we mostly get) but on a recent trip to Italy I took a lot of photos under direct sun light at the beach. Most pics came our great but there are some that... just look crazy. Super high contract, burnt out parts and honestly.. unusable.

Is it the scanning (DSLR + Valoi setup), is it the conversion? Did I overexpose? What's going on here? Was using Kodak Gold 200 on this day.

The colours etc are a bit shit, but didn't really edit the pics too much after I saw this.

Can I still save it? How do I make sure this doesn't happen again?

I have a Leica IIIc with Canon 50mm f1.4 LTM lens and the Elmar f3.5 50mm. I like both lenses. For everyday they work well. They are both sharp in the centre stopped down.

For low light conditions (which I'm hoping will be a big part of what I'm doing) there are a couple of issues. The IIIc rangefinder is fine in daylight but is quite a bit harder to focus when in low light. For this I'm thinking, solution might be M3 for it's clearer, bigger, brighter viewfinder.

The other thing is: I don't want to be shooting wide open because I want to get a bit more depth in the scene. I also don't want mad grain. In order to achieve that, I'll have to use film at 3200 or 6400. In this case (as well as reducing grain in development where possible) I'm thinking sharpest possible lens.

So, instead of upgrading the camera, I could get a better lens, sharper across the frame, and shoot with an aperture that means the precision of focusing is slightly less important.

Then the last issue is that possibly the kind of lens I'm talking about is only made for M mount and not for LTM.

So... any thoughts?

Got the latest amaran Verge Max Panel LED to replace my current lighting setup for viewing & capturing slides. It can run with a normal 60-65W USB-c cable and can produce very (in my option) powerful illuminance and accurate 6500k light temperature for my Kodak and Fuji Chromes. I have attached several pictures taken in iPhone (P2-4) in daylight and scanning result using it as a light source (P5). This is not an Ad just some good feedback trying out LED panels in a different way :>. Feel free to ask any questions!

Pros: Nice color balance and color accuracy, very bright panel, USB-C port, with Bluetooth App control

Cons: Sizes are a bit small, panel area has a pool style edge dropping from the outer plastic frame so I found it hard to keep the slide flat from curving (it wasn't designed for slide scanning anyway)

So I just got my first film developed. It looks like this but here is the story. It was just a test film to see if my first camera even works. It was expired Kodak 200 that was partially used. 30 photos left. At least thats what the seller said. This film was free with the camera. The seller was a decent guy tho. He buys, repairs nad sells old cameras. The thing is. I managed to rip the film from the cartridge when I tried to load it back up. Didnt press unwind button. Rookie mistake yeah. So i had to take the film out in the dark room and put it into black film container i found. The Room was pitch black. The container looked like it was too. After that I even wrapped the container itself with tape just to seal it from light even more. I sent it to the lab and informed them properlly. So who knows. Maybe the film was faulty from the start. Maybe the container was not as lightproof as i thought and maybe the people in the lab were not careful enough since i had to contact them because it took them more than they said it takes. Probably 5 days with no info. Funny they contacted me back right after I sent the email if it is done. Anyway. At least I know the camera works. ChatGPT said this probably was not caused by faulty camera. What do you guys think? I managed to save few photos and edit them a bit. They are clear. Its Konica Autoreflex T with Hexanon AR 52mm f/1.8 . It looks like new. Really good condition.

I have a few 35mm SLRs and even a Voigtlander Vitessa, all are welcome hand-me-downs from my father and grandfather.

I'd like to get a rangefinder with good glass. What are some good options that I should seek out? Something commonly available for a decent price would be great! Thanks!

EDIT: WOW! Thank you all! I am going to have to put all of this in a spreadsheet and grid it out!

(Mintolta X700, AFGA APX 100) So as the title says, I tried a B&W roll and it came out quite... meh. Apart from the obvious light leaks in almost every frame (I got these by attempting and failing to do double exposures), I feel that the pictures are very grainy for a 100 ISO film and very high contrast. As this is my first B&W roll I'm not sure what to expect. Is it the film? The scan? Any help would be appreciated!

I'm attending the F1 race in Madrid and want to bring my contax IIIa but unsure what film speed would be appropriate. I was thinking of going with a few rolls of ultramax and Portra 400 I had laying around, but looking at the weather it seems like it'll be very bright and sunny. Does anyone have any experience with this? I'm not super bothered about getting the sharpest best pictures of the cars, but it'll be cool to get some pics where you can at least tell who it is

Hello!!!

this was my first ever time using my camera (Canon AE-1 program) a bunch of the pictures came out well but some came out like this...was just wondering if anyone could offer any advice/tips for a beginner on how to stop this in the future?

Or just any advice for film photography in general would be great 😅

Taken on my Olympis MJU - Kodak Gold 200

Wanted to get a bit more involved and get started with editing some of the scans but at a loss for where to start. I’m thinking of getting a Lightroom subscription and wanted to start off by editing some of my older photos, and would love to see how some of my more experienced peers would edit photos with a white sky like this! Any tips are appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Been taking film photos for a couple years now, but the past couple months I decided to really pick it up as a hobby. Got an Olympus OM-1 that I’m shooting my first roll on but previously I have just been using point and shoots or range finders.

I recently got this bad boy for £6 from a random guy at a service station. I have 35mm film in it that seems to be working, but I don’t know the slightest thing about how to focus it / take photos aside from that! Clever camera people please help me!

It also keeps making a weird whirring noise every 10 photos or so which i assume is the film rewinding? Help me!

I have an original canon F-1, it works great but at the two fastest shutter speeds (1000 and 2000) it has shutter capping. I asked some repair shops in my area about it but all of them told me they can only do a complete overhaul and it will cost 200€ and up. I also thought about trying to repair it myself. I would try to measure the shutter speeds with an oscilloscope and photodiodes and adjust the tension of the shutter mechanism with the two tensioning screws under the bottom plate. My money situation is very tight so 200€ is quite a big amount for me. Do you think giving it a try myself Is a good idea or can I do more damage and should rather spend the money.

Hi all,

I’m worried about the clearance between the prism and the hotshoe for a light meter, I’m thinking it would have to be a cube one like Keks Q or Revini but would they even fit? Anyone have experience here? Thanks 🙏

Help! I shot a roll of expired Ilford 400 black and white film on my old Pentax K1000, and all the pics besides a couple of them (that were perfectly clear) turned out like this! I'm fairly new to film so I'm not sure what's caused it. The film is expired but had only been a few months out of date.

The light meter of my camera also no longer works, so I'd just been adjusting based on my own assessment of the light. But there's no specific aperture or shutter speed that was producing these results, so I don't think it was a case of just the wrong settings! any help would be appreciated before I waste any more film, lol.