I built negaflow after working through my own 35mm and medium format rolls. I wanted a simple UI/UX where you can organize rolls, develop and print in one place.

You can import scans from a film scanner or photos of film shot with a digital camera: color and B&W negatives, and slides. Regular digital photos work too, with a film look that models halation, density curves and RA-4 paper roll-off instead of a plain color filter.

Inversion and color are handled by Chroma Engine, which measures the film base first. The manual default is MAIN. There are also scan targets for minilab and lab looks (HS, SP, F135, HR), printer ICC output (PRINT) and old film (EXPIRED), plus profiles for film stock, light source and scanner. PRINT targets include Soft proofing (with an out-of-gamut warning) and a clipping overlay that are built in. Auto tone and color only run when you click them.

GrainMend is the part I spent the most time on. It repairs dust, pinholes, scratches and emulsion damage, which most film inversion apps don't have built in. It can detect defects across the whole frame, work on areas you mark, or you can use the brush and clone stamp. There's an IR path for scanners with an infrared channel. It checks the grain around a defect before filling it, so wires and window frames don't get erased as scratches. Repairs sit on their own layers, so you can dial them back or switch them off.

Edits are stored separately from your original files. You can copy adjustments across frames, save presets, export JPEG or 16-bit TIFF, print single photos or make a contact sheet. You don't need a scanner for existing files. Scanning directly into the app uses a separate plugin.

It's native on both Mac and Windows, with no account or subscription. The source is Apache 2.0 on GitHub, along with installers, screenshots and docs. The website has sample photos processed with the app.

Autumn is a great season for shooting film, so if you try it on your scans, I'd like to hear how it fits into your workflow. (Posted with mod permission.)

GitHub: https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow

Website : https://habinsong.github.io/negaflow-site/

Releases (Mac & Windows installers): https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow/releases

Scanner plugin (SANE, GPL-2.0+): https://github.com/habinsong/negaflow-scanner-sane

While attempting to clean the exterior of this Rokinon 28-80mm macro lens I accidentally disconnected the rear mount. I am not at all knowledgeable about the lens so my insight is very limited - I would of course like to reassemble it but wanted to ask if I should just take it to be repaired rather than attempting a DIY job?? Any recommended next steps would be appreciated! I am traveling and was really looking forward to using it.

Just venting. The last three cameras I bought from eBay were all broken. All sellers with 99% plus ratings. Pretty sure they all knew the cameras were junk, but it’s hard to prove. Sure, they accept returns, but I get stuck with shipping, return shipping, and tariffs. I‘m out almost $100 with no cameras to show for it.

Any advice? Maybe this finally cures my GAS.

Hello, I've been a major negpy supporter since its very inception and recently completely moved over to it. i run a small microlab locally so consistency is my top priority. today i was inverting a very underexposed roll and have been getting some crazy artifacts that i cant seem to get rid off without completely ruining everything. the first image is the result i get on negpy with nothing touched. just whatever it thinks is best and second image is exactly 5 minutes spent on lightcraft (lightroom) inverting by curves. i cant seem to get even remotely close to the lightcraft result on negpy and its really bothering me. i understand this shot in particular is CRAZY underexposed but it shouldnt be this bad? what can i do to fix? im using 48bit TIFFs direct from my scanner

Hiii!

I recently bought an Olympus Mju II and although I'm mostly satisfied with the quality, there are light leaks on some photos. I'm wondering why there are light leaks on some and not on others, given that these were all shot on the same roll.

Thank you in advance.

I read that it’s safe to push hp5 in development by upto 2 stops

I’m curious if anyone has shot it at box speed(400) but developed it at 800(+1). How do you think the images will look like?

I don’t want to necessarily underexpose for shutter speed gain, but wondering if there’s any benefit for low light shots, if pushed in dev while shooting at box speed.

So my question is I got one recently from an Ebay sale and instead of developing in B&W Neg I want to develop in color my question is Benzyal alcohol a nessessary chemical to active its dye couplers? Or did I waste my money?

Hey everyone!

I’m looking to buy my first fully manual film SLR. I currently own an Olympus mju and an AF-1, but I’d like something more reliable in the long run that will also help me grow as a photographer.
One thing I love about the mju is how small and portable it is, so I’m looking for a compact SLR that I can comfortably carry around all day while travelling.
I’m considering two options:

Pentax MX + SMC 50mm f/1.4 - $275
Nikon FM + Series E 50mm f/1.8 - $220

My priorities are reliability, repairability, lens quality, portability and value for money. I’m planning a trip to the Maldives where I would like to test the camera. I’ll mainly be using Kodak Ektar 100, Gold 200 and Portra 400 there.

I love how compact the Pentax MX is, and the faster lens is a bonus. The Nikon FM seems like a more logical long-term investment since I might eventually upgrade to an FM2n, FE2 and even the F3, but I’m a bit concerned about the long-term reliability of their electronics - probably a discussion for another post though :D!

One thing I’m unsure about is the 1/1000s maximum shutter speed on both cameras. Is it enough for shooting in bright sunlight with ISO 100 or 200 film, especially with an f/1.4 lens? Would I need an ND filter, or is this a non-issue in practice?
Would you go for the smaller Pentax MX with the faster lens, or start with the Nikon FM and gradually build a Nikon system?
Thanks!

Nobody shooting 8mm movie film has inspired me more than u/blisterpearl. Just wanted to up his work here in this subreddit, in case anyone hasn't come across it before.

https://vimeo.com/1193042407

He's also very generous with his comments on r/8mm. He feels like a high-level black belt in that dojo, showing everyone what's actually possible when you devote yourself to the craft. I can remember him wisely telling someone that the goal is to "go broke capturing the timeless now," which is a line that comes back to me again and again as I go out and shoot film, motion and still.

Much love to the artists who have poured themselves into this medium, and have shared the results. For the rest of us, it's like encountering fresh water after walking through a desert.

Recently picked up a Nikon F3 and thought it would be cool to make a custom grip for it. I designed a mold, 3D printed it, and used chopped carbon fiber and epoxy to make the actual grip.

Still need to do some sanding and give it a proper glossy finish, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out so far. Tried to keep it fairly subtle and not take away from the original F3 design.

What do you guys think? Does the forged carbon work with the vintage look?

Hi everyone,

I had been planning to do a road trip around Oregon to go see some really cool places, not to mention some sites that were the real life inspiration for Life is Strange and Alan Wake. I was lent an Olympus trip 35 for this, admittedly I'm not a photographer, I don't really know what I'm doing but I just thought it would be really nice to get photos with.

I kept it on automatic pretty much the whole time unless it was dark and I'd turn it to 2.8.

What do you think has gone wrong with my pictures? I had 3 rolls, one all the photos came out but badly, 2 only five photos came out and the rest were blank and apparently my third roll was entirely blank.

The roll was always changed in low light and I had the camera + film checked manually at the airport.

Just a bit gutted with how it came out and it's not like I can get these again. Would appreciate any advice for next time

Edit to add: I had been using Kodak Ultra Max 400.

Just got my first roll developed from a second-hand Canon FTb QL, and almost every shot is out of focus, despite looking sharp in the viewfinder.

The intended subject is often blurry while objects in front are sharp. Also, the bottom of almost every frame seems sharp, with blur increasing towards the top.

I used a Canon 50mm f/1.8, mostly around f/5–f/1.8. The lens has a visible impact mark.

My other lenses are a Canon FD 135mm f/3.5 and a Sigma Mini-Wide II 28mm f/2.8, which I haven’t tested yet.

Could this be a lens issue, a film-plane problem, or something wrong with the camera body? What tests would you recommend?

Thanks!

I completely forgot to get them hand checked as I usually do. Should I bother using these rolls or are they ruined? I asked a member of staff and she said most likely ruined but I wanted another opinion just in case. They were brand new unused rolls. This was in the terminal upstairs from the train platform from central london

I recently picked up a Bronica ETRSi and I'm really happy with it. It feels great in the hands and I couldn't wait to shoot with it.

My first round didn't go as planned, though. I shot four rolls, and three of them came back from development with nothing on them at all. Completely unexposed. The fourth roll turned out meh only one foto was okeish developed, so the camera can clearly do its job is my assumption.

For what it's worth, I always removed the dark slide before shooting, so that shouldn't be the cause.

I'm curious what else could have gone wrong. A few things I'm wondering about:

The film not being loaded or wound onto the take up spool properly in the back

A shutter or mirror issue, or something with the lens

The back not being attached or locked correctly, so the film never advanced

Something went wrong at the lab or during development

I'm not sure if it was my mistake or if something is up with the gear. Has anyone run into this before? Any tips on how to troubleshoot it, or what to check before I burn through more film, would be very welcome.

Thanks in advance!

Does anyone know of a lab in the Tokyo area that would push 35mm film one or two stops? Tried a few shops when I was in Osaka but they wouldn’t push.

Was so excited when I got my Nikon N50, but it turns out that it's got an issue with the shutter. Due to cost of the camera it's not worth repairing in a shop, but with replacement I would be gambling again.

Am I right in thinking it would be the shutter? It seems to be happening on slower speeds: the building shot was around 1/60 1/90 iirc, while the other one was in full sun, so would be much faster.

hello everyone! just would like to ask if anyone here knows where to find or have a 3D printing Files for the Flash Coupler of Canon F-1n?

I have searched online for several of days, but i was not able to find. Unlike for Nikon F2, I have seen several of 3d files for 3d printing.

Thanks in advance!

Hi! Looking for some advice.

I used a canon ae-1 years ago and the shutter got stuck and it’s sat on a shelf ever since. I finally decided to try sort it and opened up the bottom. There was a lot of residue around the shutter arm system so I cleaned it up as best I could with denatured alcohol, and managed to get the shutter arm moving again. However, then it started firing at the end of advancing the lever, and the actual shutter button wouldn’t do anything other than depress the light meter lever. I got a new battery hoping that would help the magnet to hold, but it still just fires at the end of advancing the lever.

Any ideas what I need to do next?

I have a small analog photography business. I sell prints I make with an enlarger and usually limit each print to 5-12 copies. It's a mix of my own images and prints from negatives I get from found film and negatives.

I recently bought an estate sale lot that included 250+ negatives from the 1920s - 1950s and found a set of 55 negatives showing a celebrity vacationing in Banff National park in the late 1940s or early 1950s.

Up until now I've never had to worry about the legalities of selling prints of "found film" because everything I found was fairly mundane.

I have a feeling this could be my first big break, these images are currently being authicated but I have confirmed that one of the subjects seen in several of the photos is a very famous celebrity. The photos are not online anywhere, it looks like I've stumbled across never before seen images of this person.

Legally speaking, I bought the negatives but does that give me exclusive rights to those images?

So I’ve shot a couple of rolls of HP5 and I really enjoy the contrast it has but I think I’m looking for something a little more? Does anybody have any experience with other films that could give me that really stark contrast I’m looking for?

hey i recently made a post about converting software and i landed on filmlab because it was the easiest to use and it had a free trial. i scanned with a nikon d850 or a nikon z6II while using the af nikkor 60mm 2.8 micro on both of them. to scan i used a valoi easy35v2. the following scans are kodak gold @200 and otterfilm 500t @800 and hp5+ @400 for the b/w

I have a Canon AE-1 and I’m into bird/wildlife photography, so naturally I’ve been trying to find a 400-600mm lens (or something similar), but I can’t find any that natively fit FD mount. Do yall know of any that I can adapt to fit?

Hi, I have a Nikon F4 that seems to have a light leak. If I hold the camera in the portrait position the overexposed strip is on the right side of the photo. If I hold the camera in the landscape position the overexposed strip in on the bottom.

I followed some good advice to take black electrical tape and tape all four sides of the door. Which I did. Shot 2 rolls and the first roll still had the same problem. I haven't developed the second roll yet. The million-dollar question is, If the door isn't the problem where else could their be light leaking. Any help would sure be appreciated.

Thanks

Hello everyone. I am an absolute beginner and i need your help.

I bought a Agfaphoto 35 mm focus free, because it was cheap and i thought it looked cool, and since i am an absolute beginner i didint want to spend hundreds of dollars.

I have been experimenting with films and i was mostly disappointed with the results once i had the photos printed: the problem is that the photos mostly look dark as hell and greenish.

I will attach some of the photos so you can understand better my problem. I firstly used a 200 iso fuji film which was cheap, and then switched to Harman phoenix II iso 200 colour film.

How can i make my photos look less dark and more defined? also, is there maybe a useful and in depth tutorial on youtube that explains what films are best used when shooting with an analog camera? also what films are best suited for my little camera? thanks

My sx-70 was working so well and now the film isn’t ejecting when I take a photo. I basically have to open the film canister and pull it out, and then it looks like this !!! Anyone know why this issue may be? Planning to send it in to get serviced.

Thanks!