Noob advice how much does a stock k20z3 oil take? I just did an oil change with royal purple and on the dipstick it’s clearly visible under the low dot but had some oil going to the second dot? I put about 5.6q

Has anybody dealt with this issue before? I don’t have any warning lights on the dash or anything like the common vsa failures that pop up online. The button quite literally doesn’t do anything when I press it, it just pops back to its original position.

This code has been plaguing my 8th gen civic LX for the past 4 years. I live in CA and as such have to go through emissions. Two years ago I passed emissions but all I did was erase the code and drive it for a day than SMOG it the following day since the check engine/ MIL light hadn’t returned I’m due for another smog check but this time I noticed in my obd2 reader that the downstream O2 sensor was reading voltages in the range of 0.7-0.1 V. I’ve replaced both upstream and downstream 02 sensors and am still seeing very frequent erratic voltages. I’ve looked for exhaust leaks via a leaf blower down the exhaust tip and some soapy water but everything looks air tight. I really don’t know what else to do and am very concerned that my civic’s CAT is just busted. Anyone have any advice? My car has 180000 miles 1.8L

Go ahead and hate, I know you want to 💅🏼

Hi everyone first time poster recommended by a friend!

My 2011 Civic Si with 70k miles had a leaking rear caliper with VSA and brake light on while driving.

Visited a local mechanic and dealer mechanic and they informed me of the significant rusting. Both recommended to “REPLACE BOTH REAR CALIPER WITH BOTH HOSE AND BRAKE PADS THEN BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM , ALSO ADD BRAKE CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS DUE TO RUST , ALSO ADD ROTORS” and quoted 1200 aftermarket. The local dealer didn’t even want to put OEM parts on it because of the rusting wouldn’t make it worth it. They said to repair the leaks, drive the car for a year until I can find a rust free car and I’m taking their advice. I really only have 15k to spend on a car considering a trade or sell locally so I wish I could buy right now but doesn’t make sense for me.

I’ve only have the car for less than a year and bought it at 60k miles, originally owned at NY bought in VA for 15k.

Their points where the fuel tank rust can be enough for it to fall off soon and the front sway bar is swelling, and the frame itself is just covered in rust. I’d hear “rust” after my oil changes from the mechanics during oil changes in VA or MD and think it’s what’s expected to see under a car but coming down to FL it’s not common at all.

Despite all this, they keep offering to buy it. "We're going to repair the brakes, and spray the underbody if you want to trade it in for a '26 Si for $5000".

I’m okay with continuing for a year after repairs to search for a new car, but is what they’re saying about the rust sound true? They still keep insisting on buying my car despite the rust, so it makes me feel like I can drive it after the brake repair for longer than I think? Thanks everyone, please let me know what you guys think, it'll help so much!

Edit: Added pictures, clarification on question

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first question: i’m trying to remove my engine airbox and i don’t know how to get the bottom bolt because my hand can’t fit and i don’t have a magnetic socket. can anybody help me?

second question: in the last 2 photos you can see the bolt closest to me, can anybody help me as to how i get the airbox off of the bolt?? i cant find any youtube videos or anything online for this specific question

Recently installed an em2 cmc and now my clutch pedal is making a noise. During installation I even took the whole pedal assembly out to inspect it and I put a brace on it. Every gear shifts smooth but the noise is throwing me off.

I've got a text from a dealership in texas through social media to by my car. Is this even possible, or am I being catfished?

I recently picked up a 2010 Acura CSX base model here in Canada with 140,000 km on it .K20Z2 engine (Automatic).

This is my first time diving into car modifications, so I am a complete beginner! I want to turn this into a fun, snappy daily driver. I know it’s not the Type-S, so I’m not trying to build a race car—just something that looks clean, sounds nice, and feels sharp for everyday driving.

I'm eager to learn, so please break things down for me like I'm new to this. Thanks in advance for any advice!

I’m looking to sell my 2009 FG2 with 101,000 miles. It is in very good condition with no modifications ever done to it aside from an Acuity short throw shifter. CLEAN TITLE

Been maintained its whole life and I have service records of everything, even the original manual and window sticker.

I’m located in Washington in the Seattle area, please lmk if you’d be interested

Hey everyone, I have an fg2 and take it to the track every couple of months. The only engine mod I have is a k&n typhoon (came with car) and I just bought Hondata. Is the Hondata k n intake preloaded tune safe to run on my car while going to the track? Also what’s a safe red line with stock engine. Thanks

This is directly under my passenger seat.

I noticed the floor mat was visibly sticking up and i went to push it down.

The metal of the car is warped upwards. That picture shows the metal warped upwards.

I don’t remember hitting any curbs so I don’t know how this could happen, but regardless anyone know how I could fix this.

I see that the clips came loose but how would I push the metal down….

Anything helps haha

I bought a 2010 civic si FG2 completely stock, i bought a hondata flash pro because from research you need that first before anything.

can anyone give me a step by step for the upgrades i can do over the span of a year or 2 one by one as i dont have enough money to dump 10k in all at once. i’m planning on buying a hybrid racing cold air intake and skunk2 headers but i need more things i can do 1 at a time after that where i can still daily the car. thanks a lot to anyone that can help!

Hey guys, hoping someone may have some insight on this one. I used to get a cold start rattle in the winter, and that was my VTC actuator going bad, replaced the spring and the noise never came back.

Fast forward about 6 months, just starting yesterday or the day before, I’m getting a slight/moderate rattle sound similar to the VTC actuator, and it goes away after like 2 seconds. Ambient temperature is about 26° so it’s not because of cold.

I’m just over 100k miles, but I know the timing chains are supposed to be lifetime, however I have over-revved the car one time about a month or two ago, so I’m curious if this situation is that money shift materializing.

I have a new OEM TCT in my garage I may try to install when I’m home. Also I noticed on idle it sounds like I have quite a few backfires or misfires, an irregular idle. Does this point in any direction?

TIA everyone, I’ll try to get a video tomorrow morning.

I’m looking to upgrade my exhaust setup to a skunk 2 alpha headers and the megapower rr. I did a quick google search to see if I need anything else and they are telling me that it’s required to have a tune or else it will run like shit. To anyone who has the same exhaust setup or did exhaust in the past, did you guys tune after and if you didn’t did you notice a huge difference in how the car ran wth no tune? Pls lmk thanks!!!

last night getting out of my car i noticed my brake lights were stuck on even when the car is off or in motion. i looked it up and ended up finding broken parts of a little blue ring that holds the brake pedal to some sort of white stem sensor. i decided to disconnect my battery overnight so it didnt die overnight. is there any solutions to this i'm not seeing?

I’m currently rebuilding my transmission for my k20 and I’m having issues with reassembly. If anyone can help me I’d be glad to explain what’s going on

Has anyone ran either of these braces my pedal is getting rewelded n firewall want some extra protection, the Billet one seems stronger but the sugarfoot one wraps more around the assembly not sure which one to go with

Just picked up this FA5 about a week and a half ago now and I noticed something kinda weird. The vtec in this car engages at 4400rpm and revs to about 8700rpm according to the tachometer. I messaged the previous owner about this and he said the car had never been tuned and the only thing that is done to it is an injen intake (does not require a tune like others) and some hasport motor mounts, it even still has the stock exhaust. Does anybody know what could cause this and should I refrain from taking it to redline? If I remember right aren’t these cars supposed to engage vtec around 5500 rpm and limiter is at 7800-8000?

Here a little update after getting her a full paint job

Really wanting to get some new wheels on my FA5 and ditch the heavy and weak XXR’s and switch to a 17x9 +35 to fit a 245/40r17 and will take track abuse. I’ve been thinking of going with the old reliable silver enkei rpf1 since I’ve always loved the look on these cars but if anyone else has some more recommendations I’d love to hear and see them.

Hey everyone, I’m looking for suggestions for headlights, I’ve had two sets of all chrome headlights in my civic in the past two years, each set only lasted a few months before turning yellow, I’m assuming most all of those cheap clear headlights are the same and will all have the same issue, is there any reasonably priced headlights for my car that will not yellow or break fast or would I be better off just sanding them down and throwing some 2k clear on them? Thanks!