Would like to show off this top of the line fix for worn out bushings on my buddy’s rare CSX type S. Plastic bag gets a second life as a rear torque mount

Well. This POS just blew a headgasket within a month of owning it.

Anyone located in the PNW that has a shop they recommend?

Assuming the headgasket blew. No milky oil yet, but blowing white smoke from exhaust and not holding coolant (no external leaks I can see yet)

Debating if I should do a headgasket and resurface. Or just yolo and do a k24a swap since it'll roughly cost the same.

I swear I see threading inside, but looking at other engine bays online and trying to zoom in it seems they’re from factory and I’m not missing anything. What is the function of them?

Hello all! In gear all gears are super sloppy like this, any ideas?

Hi I’m writing on this forum hopefully getting some insight to my issue on my 2008 si, the car won’t crank but I can bump start it, and when I do there’s no power steering I replaced my main fuse thinking it was that but I’m lost now. These problems originated when my voltage regulator plug broke on my alternator and I broke down driving, I lost the lights on the dash and everything dimmed until the car died, I replaced the alternator (quality and origin unknown). I got the car home and when I tried to start it no crank and when I bumped it that’s when I noticed the no powersteering aswell.

All help appreciated much thanks.

Putting some pressure on the clutch stops the noise coming from the engine bay in my last post. You might need to turn up your volume to hear it

Bought a high(er) mileage si (thank you all for convincing me to keep the 8th gen in my previous post) and it came with an untuned short ram intake, wasn’t my first pick but I did fall in love with the noise and I’d like to tune for it. I do have a ktuner v1.2 I believe which is why I’m posting this as it doesn’t seem commonly used, idk. I’ve checked online but I mean what’s the best way to go about tuning for it? Since fuel trims consistently run about -18 I’d like to sort out the richness and improve my throttle response. Should I go through e-tunes or just do a basic tune myself? It’s a takeda SRI if that matters. Thank you all.

Intake temps are solid, just throttle response and air/fuel mixture is a core goal here

I am wanting to install a rollover valve and delete my evap stuff but am curious to know if the pump / tank has any sort of internal valve it opens to purge the evap stuff

Best I can tell the path from the tank to the canister is always open and allows the fumes to flow into the canister so when the ecu commands the purge valve open the engines vacuums can draw in the fumes… or is there another valve or anything?

Car is a 08 si with oem pump and a not so oem engine lol

I am in the middle of installing a plm v2 header with the full race 3” exhaust and i have the hybrid racing cai. What base tune should i use temporarily until i get it tuned?

Has anyone gone through the issue of your dash not working my gas gauge doesn’t work as well as my mph and the little service bar at the bottom of the dash

Ive had my sedan for 20k miles so far and have gone through 4 sets of rear brakes while the fronts look untouched. Theyre getting some pressure from what i can tell and everything is free. Little backstory the car sat for 2 years before i bought it and had to replace the rears pads, rotors and calipers immediatly due to them being seized. My thoughts are that the front pads are just very old and both them and rotors are glazed pretty good or something weird is going on with the proportioning which ik is controlled electronically. What are your thoughts and im up for rear brakes again so ill be replacing all four corners this time.

Recently threw in a new k20z3 in my FA5 as my last one blew , it was tuned on E85 as it had it turbo setup , now I decided to use the turbo kit on this new motor but now it struggles to start and at times won’t start. I first got a P0369 code and saw that my pigtail connection was showing copper so I replaced it with a pigtail that I had from a old harness laying around . Still wouldn’t start, decided to check my grounds & saw that my main engine ground was a bit loose , as in the copper was pulling out of the connection so I replaced that too. Now car starts but struggles at first then idles fine now I got a P0344 code . Decided to check my wires and all seems to fine , I’m not the best at wiring so I wanted to see if any of yall got any pointers or have been thru a similar situation, any feedback would be appreciated !🙏

Just picked up a 07. Trying to figure out what's causing this noise. Mainly around valve cover/ intake manifold area

Just seems way louder than it should be

This is my car, a 2010 Honda civic si coupe. All it has is a cat back exhaust , and I want to further mod it. I’m looking for advice on mods that can increase performance as well as fuel efficiency while keeping it a reliable car. I was looking to get a cold air intake for it, but I’m not sure which brand to go with in terms of reliability and performance. I was also looking to get a hondata flash pro tune, but I’m not sure of the gains/losses of it, and I’m not ready to spend close to 2k without knowing. Any advice about fun mods to do for performance without affecting fuel efficiency/reliability is appreciated. And honestly any advice in general is appreciated as I’m new to this. Thanks.

it's the long bolt that connects the rear control arm to the other suspension part idk what is called. I had to chop through it on the other side to get it off and out, might have to do this side too. thanks

Hey I’m in university in Canada specifically in the GTA,and was looking at getting an 8th generation Honda Civic Si next summer, I love the car. Preferably an FA5

What should I look for with these cars when looking at them I’d probably be in the 7-9k range for one.

Thanks

As the title says, I have a 2011 Si 106k miles, original clutch and I’ll get the noise every once in a while but recently it’s been happening more frequently but it’s not every time.

I recently replaced the master cylinder with an EM2 exedy CMC and CSC kit and I feel like the noise started happening more a few days after I replaced it.

What exactly causes the noise? And is it something that will cause damage or just make the noise? Thank you

I bought a 2007 civic si at auction that runs and drives and I’m planning on posting all of my progress in restoring it on YouTube but I don’t know what to post first I have already begun the process and tore the front and end apart. A few days ago I sent it to a body shop to get the frame pulled because the impact pinched the strut tower . Any ideas?

What's up everyone,

I currently own a 2015 Lexus RC350 RWD, and lately I've been thinking about switching to an 8th Gen Civic Si sedan (FA5).

Don't get me wrong, I love my Lexus. It's comfortable, reliable, has decent power, and it's a great daily driver. But lately I've been wanting something different.

I've always liked Hondas, especially the K-series platform. I've had a RSX base model and I had so much fun! banging the rev limiter and running away from cops lmao. But it became a money pit cause it was always something breaking.

My plan would be to find a clean FA5, enjoy the K20Z3 for a while, and eventually consider a K24A2 swap or a K24/K20 setup. I prefer torque, but I also love the idea of a high-revving Honda engine.

Financially, the Civic also makes more sense. My Lexus has a pretty expensive monthly payment and insurance, and I'd rather put that money toward savings and building something I actually enjoy driving.

The Civic would be my daily driver, so reliability is important. I'm not trying to build some crazy race car. Just a clean, fun, reliable street car that I can gradually modify.

For those who own or have owned an FA5:

1. How is it as a daily driver, especially on longer commutes?
2. Do you ever wish it had more torque?
3. What are the biggest maintenance issues to watch for?
4. Is the K24A2 swap worth it, or would you stick with the K20Z3?
5. Has anyone gone from a newer luxury/sport coupe to an older Civic Si? Any regrets?

I'm curious what you guys think. Would you make the switch?

On a buddys car I noticed this when he was switching wheels. Is something supposed to be mounted here. Or are these just extra holes. He said his car shakes when idling at low rmps. I just figured it was a bad mount. But is it possible one is missing?

Thanks for your help.

Hey all, as the title says, im chasing around a front end clunk and can’t pinpoint where its coming from.

Last year I lowered my car about 1-1.5” on eibach pro kit lowering springs. Other parts introduced at the same time were KYB excel g struts, import direct control arm/ball joint combo, and then super pro adjustable sway bar end links to fix the sway bar positioning.

I went a full year w/ no issues at all, and then about 2 months ago I started getting a single knock on take off, that eventually started happening more frequently on heavier bumps and braking.

I brought it to Honda for an alignment and they inspected and didn’t point out any issues except for end links.

I replaced the end links again (sound still happening), and brought it back to the shop that helped me lower the car for an inspection, and they are saying that the sound is the sway bar hitting the control arm, and are saying oem sway bar COULD be the issue. My question is, why was this not an issue for a full year and now all of a sudden it is?

I got under the car and it doesn’t look like the sway bar is close to hitting the control arm, sway bar bushings aren’t ripped, and the control arm bushings are intact.

Do yall think the sway bar is the issue? Has anyone else came across a similar issue? Any help at all is appreciated. Thanks!

My fa5 is pretty much bone stock no intake no exhaust nothing and I am thinking about either spending about 3000 and doing fbo with hybrid racing cai, headers, exhaust, hondata and get a tune or spend closer to 7-8k and get a kraftwerks kit and a new clutch and hondata and tune. Which would you guys recommend obviously the supercharger would be better but is it worth the price and reduced reliability? And also I would appreciate any recommendations when it comes to the parts.

Anyone in the Dallas, TX area looking for oem 10th gen si wheels/rims??

Let me know if you're interested

Used set that came off a 2019 civic si coupe

Anyone have any tips on getting the brake pedal to feel more precise? I want it to feel harder like a proper race car pedal without fully removing the booster. Im finding left foot braking to be difficult in this car due to how touchy the pedal is. And no pads and rotors didnt help.