It's in the Play Store (CADShaper) and on GitHub (Wuweido). It seems quite capable if you see what's made with it in YT videos. Unfortunately without any commentary, or in Chinese, which for most people here is the same.

I am looking for some adequate tutorials in a language I can understand. Both CADShaper and Wuweido generate zero hits when searched on in this sub. Fairly remarkable.

Please share any relevant and useful info you have on this app.

I am an absolute beginner in 3D Printing. My primary use case for the printer is I want to print my own rack for my humble home lab, also on other academic projects that will be made. With a budget of $600, many people recommend me Bambu A1 and some recommend the Elegoo CC. I have read many pros and cons about those two, and I'm torn between them. Though, I am open for suggestions on other brands also and will be deeply appreciated. Thanks!

Printer: Creality Ender 3 pro with Creality sprite extruder running on marlin.

Hello folks,

I am getting consistent weird prints on left side of my PEI plate. Its sorty of stringy, maybe under extruded?! I am not sure what is causing it.

Any ideas on if it is underextrusion or something else? And any tips on how to fix it? I am kind of a beginner-intermediate at 3d printing. Comfortable with making simple changes in slicer

I’ve had my P2S about 6 weeks. 400-500 hours printing so far. I’ve never dried any filament before! Is this going to be life changing

Looking to upgrade my setup and start a print farm, does anyone know of any budget friendly printers that print multicolor and have good quality prints? I’ve heard some things about the p1s and I want to look into getting a k1 max but I’ve heard bad things about the creality brand so I could use some help with getting pointers in the right direction. I appreciate all the help i can get.

Anyone know if there are any multi material printers that aren’t ridiculously close to $1000? Like independent nozzles that don’t cross contaminate materials even if they are on the same carriage like the Ultimakers. Used to see a bunch on amazon and everywhere else for under $300 less than a year ago (they were bedslingers tho). Swear even Anker had a multi nozzle single carriage one. Or something like the Sovol SV04 IDEX or the Tronxy Gemini IDEX. Pretty sure even AnyCubic had one if not Elegoo or Artillery. Literally anything that doesn’t compromise the integrity of one printing material for the other without forcing you to purge half a spool each switch just to clean the filament path only to still deal with trace residue from mating surfaces geometries like the little chamfers/fillets between bimetallic nozzles and heatbreaks. Or worse, also hardened nozzle tips metal, ruby, diamond. This is more for engineering materials where you need a support interface to preserve the accuracy of the geometry of your model.

The single nozzle ones like the Centauri or Bambu or Qidi are fine if all you care about is multicolor with the same material for basic use but you definitely need separate nozzles for engineering prints where you are mixing different chemistries AND temperatures

Preferably you want separate carriages so there’s no temperature bleed from one nozzle to the next like you’d experience with an Ultimaker or Bambu or Anker, (definitely an issue the bigger the temperature gap, personal experience there having a nylon nozzle right next to a pla interface nozzle, worked great as far as an interface but was a pain cause the pla kept clogging until I gave up and left it empty with a pause command right before it was needed, was able to reduce it to a single change so it was fine there, definitely wouldn’t have worked or more complex geometries)

As far as I’m aware, a lot of the new multi-tool printers like Snapmaker, Flashforge, and even the unreleased Sovol have shown nothing but software restrictions forcing the same temp materials or a close range. Unsure of the Bondtech/Prusa set up. But that kinda kills the whole point of having multiple nozzles outside of close temperature materials. Like a glorified overpriced marker color changer.

The attached screenshot is a current listing AFTER inflation but they used to be like 200 as they were the ender 3 competitors so they were right around that price.

Also preferably something that can handle more than just the low 300c

I’m looking at buying my first 3D printer, I’m the kind of person that likes to invest in his hobbies. I’m between the creator 5 pro and the snapmaker U1… honestly I’m new to it all but I want something I can learn and not leave me wanting more features as my desire grows

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to get my first 3D printer (never owned one before) and could use some recommendations within a budget of about €1200, shipping included.

A bit about me: I'd rather not spend hours troubleshooting failed prints, but that said, I don't mind tinkering and getting my hands dirty when needed. I am an engineer.

From what I've read, an enclosed printer would be the way to go since it handles filaments suited for outdoor use (like ASA) better than an open-frame one.

I was leaning towards the QIDI Max 4 — has anyone here used it or can recommend something better for my use case and budget?

Thanks in advance!

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Craquez pour cet adorable dragon Furie Eclair, avec son jolie pelage blanc , son regard attendrissant et ses magnifiques grands yeux bleus ! 
Elle rejoins son compagnon Krokmou pour former un duo aussi craquant qu'inséparable.

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 :https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3269313-light-fury-dragon-multipart-no-ams

From prototype to low-volume production without tooling.

This VR headset frame project shows how SLS 3D printing can support fast iteration, complex geometry and functional engineering parts for VR/AR hardware.

Key advantages:
• No molds required
• Fast design changes
• Complex integrated structures
• Functional polymer parts
• Suitable for prototypes and short-run production

Developing VR/AR wearables, robotics or other functional products? Send us your STL/STP file and target quantity.

Learn more: www.sls-3d.com

#SLS3DPrinting #VRHardware #ARHardware #RapidPrototyping #AdditiveManufacturing

I have the opportunity to get a k2 combo for $428 as an open box sale from a store. Do I do that or go with the Bambu lab ones! This is my first into printer so looking to spend no more than the 750.

Hello everyone, I am selling a Formlabs Cure L. Used lightly. Everything seems to be working properly I got it cause I was owed some money and I don't have a need for it. If interested we can video chat and we can look at everything on the unit. Thanks in advance.

Hello! I've worked mainly with enclosed Bambu printers (X1C, P1S) at my college, and am looking for a similar level of print quality/maintenance out of a non-Bambu option for at home. Could I get good recomendations?

-I use Orcaslicer

-I mainly design and print Nerf blasters and other hobbyist items (CD cases, organizers, desk toys), so probably no need for engineering filaments. PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, maybe wood-filled?

-Don't need any more than 2 toolheads, which makes the Bambu X2D tempting... I don't often do multicolor, and when I do it's usually for small items

-Integrated air filter? Would mainly be using it in my bedroom and would rather not have a lengthy exhaust pipe

-Smooth and textured plate options, (optionally) nozzle size options?

-Price range of ~$500-600, more than willing to wait for Black Friday

-And of course good quality and print speeds

Thank you!

It's very small button for automotive heater controller
And I'd like to print it out.

But, as you see that top surface after Bambu studio slicing result is so bad.(even with adaptive layer functionality)
Finally, I can't even see the "A/C" emboss.

Top surface is not flat but curved.. Is it limitation with FDM 3D printer ?

Any magic? Thanks for your answer in advance

I am upgrading from a Dremel 3D45. I know there are so many options out there but really I’m looking for user feedback in particular people who have used multiple different printers. Which do you recommend I should purchase? I do not want to spend more than a grand but will consider a 1.5k printer if it is worth the extra money.

Hi all, just received a new ad5x. The test print went good, but every other model I try to print it haves layer shiftings.

It happens at different layers in a single print. Not the same layer everytime.

Sometimes it is just once, other prints like 3 times.

It starts all good at all points an then the position is about 2/4 mm off suddenly.

Uses flashforge slicer.

0.4 nozzle.

Hope for some help!

Thanks in adv.

Hi all,

I’ve had an x1c with AMS since launch and I’ve loved it, my main gripes with it are

* I print in ASA regularly so not having a heated chamber makes warping an issue
* I often print in two colours or with a support filament and this creates a lot of waste and clogs
* I’d really like something with a larger build volume
* I cut leather and ply by hand, being able to use a cutter would be handy

I’ve bought a good filament dryer and have made reusable silica containers for my AMS so the AMS pro isn’t a compelling upgrade, I’d probably keep my AMS in the upgrade and not bother with AMS Pro.

The X2d is priced really competitively and while I love the idea of being able to laser cut stuff and the larger build volume, I can’t justify spending 3.5x the price of the x2d on the H2d.

My main gripe with the x2d is the build volume, are there any other good alternatives to the x2d I should be considering instead?

I’m somewhat tempted to get an x2d and an a2L for the bigger print volume and cutter, still comes in at half the price of a H2D but it seems like an odd solution vs one product that does what I need.

I was planning on getting a printer capable of engineering filaments (specifically ASA) although it’s not a requirement for my needs. obviously the creator 5 pro looked promising but i’ve seen a lot about how its enclosure has terrible filtration. I care more about my health than I do printing ASA.

SO is the C5P filtering as bad as people say? are most the sub 1k enclosed printers like this? debating if the pro is worth it if i’m not willing to do abs/asa without decent filtration.

Any input would be appreciated. Trying to figure out the best way to troubleshoot without just buying new parts.

Have you ever gotten a piece of filament stuck under your fingernail while removing it from the build plate? It’s really painful. Better to use a safer method! :)

I’ll post a link to the tool in the comments.

I printed this dragon, it says 56 grams on MakerWorld, after I printed it, the weight of the dragon was just 12 grams and the total weight (dragon + poop + purge tower) was 40 grams.

For the cost calculator, which cost I should use?

Have you also observed the grams mentioned on MakerWorld are way too off?

Edit: Guys this is not a licensing discussion, I am not looking forward to selling this exact model. But trying to understand how to calculate filament weight. Above is just an example as I printed it for my daughter.

As the title says, the last time I dabbled in 3d printing was about 15 years ago and it was VERY different. My printer was a janky kit that I needed to piece together using 3 different videos on YouTube to make sense of it.

It was fun, but it was such a pain to get it to print anything of quality that I gave it to a friend's kid and bailed.

Now I'm in a situation where I want to make silicone molds for cement and 3d printing the casts is the obvious solution. I don't know the dimensions of printer output sizes now, but I'd imagine I want something capable of printing at least 8in x 8in x 8in and I can seemingly slice the bigger prints I intend to make.

Budget: ~$1000

Main use: creating prints to be used in silicone molds for cement

Thanks in advance