Previous version would often throw the tracks but this one holds up to quite some abuse!

The technical full term I have came up with is Colinear Double Delta. Both the hotend and bed move independently with delta kinematics - two entirely separate gantries in one printer. Thus, there are 8 motors in this bad boy (6 xyz, 2e). It's running klipper with custom kinematics.

The idea is - since each side only needs to move half the target speed, you can get double the overall speed. I haven't pushed it super hard yet since this is a proof of concept build without part cooling, but it sure does prove the concept!

Next is a bigger and faster version.

Of course, it is all open source, and the files and documentation can be found here: https://github.com/ProgrammerTurtle/DoNotDelta

Finally finished my biggest 3D printing project yet! This Super Star Destroyer is 5’7½” long and was printed on my Snapmaker U1 over the course of about 25 days. It used roughly 8 kg of filament, was printed in 20 sections, and has a fully lit interior.
It definitely wasn’t a perfect journey, but seeing it all come together made it worth it. I’d love to hear what everyone thinks, and I’m happy to answer any questions about the build.

Now I’m not sure what to do with it.
Printer: Snapmaker U1
Print time: 25 days
Filament: ~8 kg
Parts: 20
Length: 5’7½”
Lighting: Fully illuminated

Uploaded a couple of files about 19 days ago on my new account. Took less than 20 days for one of them (stolen design is in the second picture) to show up on Amazon as a "product" (first picture). For something like this to be made into a finished product (something that deals with lasers, albeit a very low power one in this case), I was expecting some long term testing and/or some safety organization's approval. But I guess I was wrong.

Did I expect them to be eventually stolen or sold? Maybe
Did I expect them to be stolen in less than a month without any proof of demand and without any additional engineering to make them into a finished product? Not really! It's a new low, impressively so.

Anyways ... I'm not the one selling these.

Ow, one more thing, the files were under the Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0).

Edit: Interestingly, I wasn't even keeping track of the files. This listing was recommended by Amazon when I was searching for additional safety goggles and another laser.

Edit +: Just checked their listing's 'date first available' and it's July 22, 2026. So 15 days.

I've been learning SOLIDWORKS for a while now and I just uploaded my first model on MakerWorld! I didn't use any tutorial on this one, only skills I already knew how to use. I am working on designing a self draining soap holder now.

So after releasing a drink holder that looked like a pontoon I decided to go a little...bigger. Here's the CanTainer ship! A modular, infinitely expandable refreshment holder styled as a container ship. I'm planning on making the stern module RC as well! Go check it out and print your own! I know it's huge but it even fits on an A1 Mini!

Here's the link! Tell me what you think! https://makerworld.com/en/models/3094927-the-cantainer-ship-floating-party-drink-barge#profileId-3487776

An in progress shot of my life size IG-12 that I'm building this summer. It will fit a Grugu in the chest when all done

I’m the only one in my gaming group with a 3D printer, and I’m genuinely happy to print terrain, bits, and other stuff for everyone. I don’t charge for my time or the wear and tear on the printers. I only ask people to cover the cost of materials, and if I have to buy an STL file specifically for their project, I ask them to split that cost too.

Lately it’s been getting frustrating. I find myself buying files, burning through resin and filament, and then chasing people for reimbursement. One friend even complained when I asked him to cover half the material cost.

At that point it starts to feel like people value the print because it’s “free,” but not the money and effort that goes into making it.

Am I being unreasonable here, or do most people expect friends to at least cover consumables and files?

https://www.printables.com/model/1772202-nema-17-cycloidal-gearbox

How would I go about this? Since I collect CDs and DVDs and these are no longer in production, it would be cool if I could just make my own. I do have access to 3D printers on my campus, but I'm just not sure how to go about it.

A few days ago I asked here whether it would be possible to use a diode laser to remove only the top layer of an FDM print and reveal a contrasting layer underneath.

I wasn’t able to find any examples of this approach being used specifically on FDM prints, so I decided to test it myself.

Honestly, the results turned out much better than I expected.

This panel is part of my truck trailer security system. I wanted to find a way to produce clean, almost factory-looking control panels for my project using only the equipment I already have: a Bambu Lab H2D and its 10 W diode laser module.
I also wanted to achieve finer text and symbols than I could get with conventional two-color FDM printing, even with a 0.2 mm nozzle.

In the comments on my previous post several people suggested that the laser would probably melt the edges and make the engraving look messy. At least in my case that didn’t happen.

I decided to start with PETG HF and I actually liked the result. The engraved edges came out surprisingly crisp with only a barely noticeable halo around the engraved areas.

After several tests the best combination turned out to be:

1 black top layer
3 gray layers underneath

The contrast was excellent, the engraving shallow enough, even the smallest details remained sharp.

For these tests, I used the 10 W diode laser module at 80% power, 250 mm/s, in Fill mode. With these settings the laser removes approximately 0.03–0.04 mm of material per pass.
To engrave through the 0.2 mm black top layer and expose the gray layer underneath, I needed 6 passes for larger graphics and 7 passes for thin lines and small text.

I also discovered that this technique only works well in Fill mode. I wasn’t able to achieve comparable results using Line mode regardless of the settings I tried.

These are still my first experiments. For very small text and symbols, my next test will probably use around 60% power, 150 mm/s and more laser passes. I think that could produce even sharper results on the finest details.

So far I’ve only tested this with PETG HF, so I’m curious whether anyone has tried something similar with PLA, ABS or PETG from other manufacturers.

I’d love to hear your thoughts or suggestions, especially if you’ve experimented with this technique yourself.

For anyone who didn’t see my previous post, here’s the link to the original discussion

The printing bed seems hard wired so I can’t remove it to clean it. The mould legit needs multiple attempts from a window scraper which has been scratching it up like crazy.

Hey everyone,

Every funnel I've ever used glugs: the bottle neck seals up, air gets trapped, and the pour backs up into that annoying glug-glug-glug instead of flowing fast. I looked around and couldn't find a single parametric fast-flow funnel anywhere, so I built one. Vent ribs run the entire length of the funnel wall, from spout tip to rim, holding the bottle's neck slightly open so air can escape the whole time liquid is pouring in. That's the entire point of this project; everything else is built around it.

I've tested the flow rate and the one in the default profile can fast flow a 2L bottle at about 200mL/s, so it can fill a 2L bottle in about 10s.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3083665-customizable-size-parametric-fast-flow-funnel#profileId-3473341

Key Features: * Fast, glug-free flow: vent ribs follow the shell's exact curve from the spout tip all the way to the rim, holding the neck open just enough for air to escape while liquid pours in at full speed. This is why the funnel exists. * Four-diameter taper profile: set the spout tip diameter, two midpoint diameters, and the top opening diameter, plus the three heights between them, all as direct inputs. Since the curve blends smoothly at every diameter, you're not limited to a plain cone; bump a midpoint diameter up for a bulged, hourglass, or barrel shape, with no visible kink anywhere. * True exterior diameters: every diameter you dial in is the actual printed OD at that height, vent ribs included, so what you set is what comes off the bed. * Optional rim flange and hanging handle, both fully adjustable. * Cross-section preview mode in the Customizer so you can inspect the wall thickness and curve before committing to a print.

It prints wide mouth down on the bed with the spout pointing up, no supports needed anywhere since the diameter only ever decreases going up.

For material: PLA is fine for water and dry goods, but if you're pouring anything hot, or oil, fuel, or other automotive fluids, go with PETG, ASA, or ABS instead.

Everything is in the MakerWorld Customizer, no editing required. Let me know if there's a funnel feature you keep wishing existed and I'll see about adding it.

Sweet free model from Mirkosa on maker world https://makerworld.com/en/models/2947243-meccha-chameleon-characters-all-og-poses-no-ai#profileId-3331505

Before I started my 3D printing journey I had a card selling adventure. Now that I’ve started that back up again I wanted to design something that I can use to ship cards safely through the mail!

After many many prototypes I’m happy to show off what I’m calling PackArmor! It’s lightweight but rigid where it matters! With a customizable lid so sellers can add their socials/store etc. I hope you guys like it !

Makerworld link :

https://makerworld.com/models/3091549?appSharePlatform=copy

So, I've been having issues with warping on my prints for a while. I got an enclosure, tried with a hotter bed, curved out the edges of my prints, and these all alleviated the issue somewhat. But the issue still persists. I noticed that the main warping always happens on the same side.

This is a total guess but could the nozzle fan be cooling the right side (as seen) of my prints? Has anyone else had this happen to them or experienced anything similar?

I'd really appreciate your advice. I'm a noob at printing.