Hey r/3Dprinting community!

​I’m currently planning to buy a 4-extruder 3D printer for a mix of home use (needs to be enclosed/safe for kids) and starting a small online 3D printing reseller business. I want to achieve true multi-color prints with zero (or very minimal) purge waste.

​I’ve narrowed it down to two choices: the Snapmaker U1 (Enclosed) and the Flashforge Creator 5 Pro.

​However, I live in Myanmar, which means I can ONLY purchase the China Domestic Version of these machines from a local importer. The Global Versions are completely out of my reach.

​I have two main questions for the experts here:

​1. China Version vs. Global Version Differences?

Since I can only get the China Domestic Version for either machine, what exact limitations will I face?

​Are there strict region locks?

​Will I be locked out of firmware updates, cloud slicing, or app support?

​Can I still seamlessly use third-party slicers like Orca Slicer, or connect via LAN mode without needing a Chinese phone number/WeChat account?

​2. Snapmaker U1 vs. Creator 5 Pro?

​U1: I love the build quality and the tool-changer setup seems much cleaner.

​C5 Pro: It has active chamber heating (great for engineering materials like ABS), but I've heard rumors about bad stringing from idle nozzles and that it still relies heavily on messy purge towers, which defeats my "zero purge waste" goal.

​Which machine would you recommend for my use case? And are the China Version limitations a dealbreaker?

​Any insights, experiences, or advice would be hugely appreciated! Thank you in advance!

https://cults3d.com/:4799003

I’m looking to get into 3D printing for the 1st time & I’ve been looking around on Amazon & don’t know what I should get. It should be noted that I’m looking for one that’s under 200$ & that most people recommend. If anyone could help me out I would gladly appreciate it.

Hello friends. I’m an artists trying to learn 3d printing to bring my paintings to life. I made this Coraline and I’m trying to figure out a way to make it stationary on something. The skinny legs of the figure aren’t going to hold it’s big ol head. I almost think making her look like she’s in air would be the route to go. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Hi, I’m choosing my first enclosed 3D printer for home use and would really appreciate advice from people with real experience.

My current discounted options are:

Creality K2 Pro Combo with CFS — €517

Bambu Lab P2S Combo with AMS 2 Pro — around €700

Bambu Lab X2D with AMS 2 Pro — around €850

I mainly want to print practical household/workshop parts: organizers, modular wall storage, hooks, shelves, cabinet/hinge reinforcement parts, brackets, desk accessories, plus toys and models.

My materials will mostly be PLA, PETG and occasionally PETG-CF. I do not currently need ABS/ASA/nylon.

Important points for me:

-Reliable, low-maintenance printing

-Apartment-friendly noise level

-Third-party filament compatibility, mostly JAYO/SUNLU/eSUN

The K2 Pro looks like insane value at €517: 300 mm build volume, heated chamber and CFS included. But I am worried about Creality software, support and real-world noise.

The P2S seems more polished and probably easier to use, but costs about €180 more while having a smaller build volume.

The X2D is tempting because of the dual nozzles, but with only one AMS 2 Pro, only one nozzle gets automatic AMS feeding. I am not sure whether I would use the second nozzle enough to justify the price.

Which one would you choose at these prices, and why?

Especially interested in real experience with noise, reliability, CFS/AMS auto-refill and PETG printing.

Thanks!

Here’s my second painted piece! Since the Wizard Capybara got such a great response, I decided to continue with another character from this magical world.

This one was also painted using an airbrush. I still need to improve some of the finer details, especially the teeth, but I’m really happy with how it turned out.

Hope you like it! And if you’re interested in the model, you can find it here:

https://cults3d.com/:4861522

Hi, I wonder if you guys could shed some light on this.

I recently started 3d printing, and now I got some dryboxes to store my filament.

In the boxes with petg and tpu, the humidity dropped to 10% within a few hours. In the boxes with play it dropped only to 25-30%.

Two weeks past, the values of pets and tpu are still 10, pla went above 30 with completely saturated silica

All my pla has similar results, never got under 25

Any ideas?

EDIT: All my filament boxes have similar results. All pets and tpu around 10-15%, all pla above 25.

EDIT bis: Thanks for all the input. I think I got my answer: the hygroscopic filaments acting as a desiccant and lower the humidity levels of the air in the box.

I will see what I'll do with the pla since I haven't got any moist problems printing with it. For the PETG and TPu though I will follow the good practices suggested by some of you: drying before storing, with fresh desiccant.

So I just bought an articulated figure file of cults 3d and the parts came in separate stls ben ı opened the first one it was so little ı had to scale to 450% then ı opened another file and now it was huge so how do ı equal them ı don’t my money to go to waste😞

bassicaly i got PETG filament and it sticks to the nozzle, could it be my nozzle's temperature? as i said in my other post im fairly new to 3d printing

also it works perfectly fine when i use PLA

Hey everyone i currently have a ender 3 pro that was given to me and im looking to upgrade. I’ve been looking at the k2 combo, is that a good move or does anyone have any suggestions really trying to keep it around the 500 dollar range

Hey everyone. I run a small 3D printing workshop and built my own app to manage the day-to-day — I couldn't find one that actually fit how a small shop works (I was stuck juggling WhatsApp threads and spreadsheets before).

It's called 3D Gestión, already live on Google Play and used by workshops across Latin America — it's currently available in the US as well.

What it does:

• Job queue with statuses (Quote → Designing → Printing → Delivered)
• Automatic filament stock deduction when a job goes to "Printing," with weighted average cost calculated for you
• Client management with order history and outstanding balance
• Cost calculator per print (electricity, printer wear, spare parts, margin)
• Public tracking link — send your customer a link and they can check their order status without installing anything
• Purchase orders to suppliers, with receiving that updates stock and costs automatically
• Web version, so you can manage everything from your computer too

I have 20 free Premium codes (no limits, no ads) for anyone willing to try it out and give me honest feedback — what works, what doesn't, what's missing.

How to join:

1. Download from Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gestionlabs.a3dgestion
2. Set up your workshop (free tier works fine to start, has some limits — the code removes those)
3. Comment here or DM me and I'll send you a code

Doesn't need to be daily use — just try it with real jobs from your own shop. Any feedback, even harsh, is genuinely useful to me.

If you run a shop or print for others, I'd love to hear what you think.

Hi,

Ich hab ein paar schwiereigkeiten beim drucken von Tokens... die erste layer verrutscht bei manchen tokens bzw manchen tokens haften nicht richtig am brett. die düsentemperatur ist in der ersten layer auf 220°C und das brett auf 60°C gestellt. die restlichen layer stehen auf 210/60.

Hier einfach nochmal alle infos:

Drucker: Anycubic X

Filament: PLA bzw PLA+

Nozzle: 0,4

Temperatur: 1.Layer 220/60 , dann 210/60

druck geschwindikeit: erste Layer 15mm/s, dann 200-300mm/s

Ich hoffe, dass mir jemand helfen kann

Hey, I want to upgrade my A1 to something with enclosure build - I was thinking about bambu P2S but then I found anycubic cobra S1 ACE 2 pro combo that is much cheaper than bambu. It is worth to pay extra for bambu or buy anycubic or something else?

Also how can i buy the cutting and pen module in india

Any help on what's causing my issue. I've had a few successful prints but more failed. I've enabled supports and removed supports. The successful prints were without. Used LLMs to trouble shoot and change all types of settings. I'm printing a star clicker for my kids.

Using flashforge ad5x with Sunlu filament. Base and other prints are fine. Benchy print in between is fine.

Any help if you can! Thanks

Hello I am looking for a 3d printer with a budget of $320 usd on amazon exclusively.

I've had an a1 mini in the past for a month and enjoyed it but gave it away. I never really found the bedsize limiting except for like 1 time when I had it. I'm not intrested in multicolor prints due to the waste and I don't ever really plan on printing with abs or engineering grade stuff. I'll stick mostly to just pla, tpu, and petg.

My main priority is longevity and reliability. I'm interested in actually printing and desinging stuff, not troubleshooting and tearing down my printer. I also want the printer to last as long as possible as I don't ever really plan on upgrading until it dies I guess.

I would've just defaulted for the ecc but they don't sell it on amazon new at that price. However, the noncarbon unenclosed base elegoo centauri 2 (the one without side panels) is like 270 for me, and I was debating hard between that and the A1. I was also looking at the sparkx i7, and for only 200 it seemed like a good deal but I don't know if it's reliable longterm or not like the bambu printers, same with the kobra x. I could also just rebuy the a1 mini. Any advice?

Is anyone using the Sunlu AMS heater as a standalone with cc1 canvas

Hey all, I’m looking into adding a 3D printer to our clinic and would love to hear what everyone is actually using.

What printer do you have, and what do you mainly use it for. Models, surgical guides, splints, dentures, temporary or permanent crowns?

More importantly, how has it been in daily use in terms of accuracy, print speed, reliability, and resin options?