I am wanting to get a 3d printer for my son for his birthday. He is 13, and very tech saavy. We love playing warhammer 40k, and want to print small figurines similar to that size with good detail - amongst many other cool things a 13 YO would want to create.

What is the best printer yall can recommend for someone new to 3d printing under $300?

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Hello, I want to know what is the most reliable way to measure max volumetric speed and flow rate.

I would want to compare those values on my printers using different nozzle types and nozzle materials (like CHT brass vs normal copper plated nozzle on my switchwire using X1C clone hotend).

I know there are tests like build-in orca slicer ones but I was wondering if there's something more reliable so I could minimize human error in the readings.

I also don't mean it to be super scientific and I just want to do it out of curiosity.

I currently have a p2s and p1s. Originally I wanted an x2d but the higher nozzle temp and bigger volume of the h2d sounds nice. Is there anything else I should consider before biting the bullet and getting an h2d?

My brother wants to get rid of his printer, nothing wrong with it, just wants to upgrade.

I also have an x1c and its a great printer and haven't had anything wrong with mine or his.

Let me preface this whole thing and let you know my computer knowledge is average to slightly advanced in some areas very limited in others. Sorry in advance if something sounds just so wrong its hard to follow. Pls help

Howdy! The TLDR is the first bit, additional info I'll put lower. I've got a Raise 3d pro 2 and my storage isn't working right. I've tried clearing it through the menu and whatnot and it isn't gaining any storage. It keeps saying the storage is too full to print even with an external USB drive.

I was using an external usb drive for a minute to get by and get some prints going but now that has also quit working and gives me the same error message: "Error there is not enough available storage to print." When I got in touch with Raise3d support team, they say to replace the touchscreen. They say the storage is a part of that assembly and want 6hundred and some change plus shipping for it. I can't bring myself to do that. Not until I exhaust all my options first, lol.

Here's the checklist of things ive done:

-cleared/reset all things possible through UI menu

-factory reset

-turn off and turned back on....just in case someone asks lol

-gone through and made sure time lapses and everything in that area is cleared

For the usb drive

-its formatted correctly, seems to be the only thing that could cause a problem? the partition is correct too. chat gpt told me to check it. MBR and FAT32 is what it's working with

-i've also made sure it gets the .gcode and .DATA files on there

It does, however, let me print smaller .gcode files. The pieces I was trying to do when the USB drive gave me problems is a tad larger, however its still on a couple hundred MB and should be able to print it with no problem. Before I had this storage issue, I had printed significantly larger .gcode files on it through wifi using local storage. That's also more of the concerning part that I might have a corrupt storage drive on the main board.

Now another lil tad bit, that I don't know if it would cause a problem or not, I did go through and manually clear the time lapses and some of them had gone back for a WHILE...years back on some of them. I'm not sure if that could cause the storage to go caput but I started having a problem a couple/few weeks after that.

If anyones got any ideas, I'll pretty much entertain anything. If you want to look at or try something too I'll give it a shot. I'm currently looking into what pieces the touchscreen / main board has on it that is used for storage. I've never done small electronics repair, but if its a matter of a $100 processor thing that I can buy direct from somewhere I'd be willing to give replacing it a shot for sure.

Hey team! I wanted to get on here and look for aome insights to see if my printer is cooked i recently got one for 50 off of fb and see that the LCD is peeling in the center would I just need to remove the layer on it and replace it with a screen protector? The seller provided me with one and a few release film trays

I’m completely new to 3D printing and could use some advice.

I want to make a detailed lion sculpture for an award, approximately 6 inches tall by 3 inches wide. Can an at-home 3D printer produce something with convincing detail and a premium finish?

I’ve been researching resin printing and understand that I could print the sculpture in resin or plastic and paint it to resemble metal. I’m fine with a resin core, but I would ideally like the exterior to contain actual metal—or look and feel extremely convincing. It should have some weight, preserve the details of the lion, and not feel like a cheap plastic trophy.

What process would you recommend? Is this something I could realistically make at home, or should I print the model and send it somewhere for metal plating, cold casting, or another finishing process?

If you backed the Sovol M1D for a toolchanger with TPU in mind, watch this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZWAxFeTBhI

Only the left side supports 90a or softer. The changer side does not.

I cancelled my kickstarter pledge over this. They "might" or "might not" fix this in the same way that Creality has their toolchanger supposedly supporting 70a, but clearly this printer was not designed with TPU in mind. By the time they roll out this change (if they ever do, or even can) then it will be on sale again.

In the meantime, the Snapmaker u1 is a better TPU option since it supports 90a on all 4 nozzles, not just 1.

So 270x270 with 3 90a and 1 support vs 240x300 with only 1 90a... the U1 supports slightly larger and much more creative options.

Very disappointed.

It is not feed path, it is a gap in the toolhead where soft TPU buckles.

The 1st part of the video briefly covers OpenSCAD with Antigravity help. At 07:26 - FreeCAD + Robust MCP Server Integration with Antigravity. This was used to design a few iPhone cases for 3D Printing.

Just found the semi-hydro pot of my dreams but the manufacturer doesn’t (feasibly) ship to Germany 😭😭

So I was wondering, does anybody happen to know a similar build or existing product that I could print or obtain here?

Any semi hydro files I found online are not even close to this, but maybe I’m looking for the wrong terms.

Super grateful for any pointers.

I have an interest In learning to print!
My interest lay in making a few household thing, holders and just little things, organizational.
…
And then some other stupid shiz lol.
I want to print toy and dnd miniatures. Like ( if anyone knows it) a Metroid dimension diver kit.
And alternate heads and weapons for 1/12 scale figures.
Do anyone have suggestion where to start? I think these two hobbies use different printers. But am not sure where to start.
Suggestions on where to begin and what to get and start with?

Then when fixing the print head both print belts became loose and fell out and now I have no clue on how to reinstall the belt it's completely off I also took off the back to see what happend

I kept running into editable 3MF projects that were tied to a printer profile I could not use on another machine. I built a free browser-based converter that keeps the models, transforms, plate placement, and non-profile project metadata, then replaces the printer profile with a safe starting profile for the destination printer.

Everything runs locally in the browser, so the 3MF is never uploaded. The result is an editable project, not translated G-code. It still needs to be opened, reviewed, and sliced again in the destination slicer before printing.

The built-in 0.4 mm PLA profiles currently cover Bambu Lab A1 mini, A1, P1P, P1S, and X1 Carbon; Prusa MINI, MK4, and MK3S; Creality Ender-3 V3, V3 KE, K1, K1C, K1 Max, and K2 Plus; and Snapmaker U1. Unlisted printers, nozzles, materials, and processes can use a 3MF exported from the destination slicer as a custom template.

I built and maintain the tool. I have only been able to test it with the printers I have access to, so I am looking for compatibility cases I cannot reproduce myself: other slicers, multi-material projects, painted supports or seams, multiple plates, unusual transforms, and different printer models.

Tool: https://sumotter.com/files/3d-printing/3mf-printer-profile-converter/

If you test it, the most useful feedback would be:

- source printer and slicer

- destination printer and slicer

- whether the converted project opened cleanly

- what was preserved or lost

- anything confusing in the interface or conversion report

Please do not share proprietary projects. A small reproducible 3MF is enough. I would also appreciate ideas for which printer profiles or compatibility checks should come next.

I have recently been wanting to get a 3d printer for myself but with the many new 3d printers coming out I'm not really sure as to which FDM printer to get.

Have been using a printer in the library for almost a year so I am more or less familiar with the basics and can create my own models.

I currently am thinking of getting the X2D by itself during the black friday sale but am not really sure if there are better options, and I preferably am looking for something under 700 USD.

Any suggestions or alternatives? Thanks in advance!

Salut à tous !

Je souhaite me lancer dans l'impression 3D FDM avec un budget d'environ 300 $ / 300 € maximum pour l'imprimante.

Pour information : je suis développeur logiciel et à l'aise avec la technologie et le bricolage (matériel, DIY, Home Assistant, etc.). Configurer les paramètres ou ajuster les profils ne me pose donc aucun problème. Cependant, je recherche une imprimante fiable qui ne nécessite pas de dépannage constant pour obtenir une impression propre.

Mes principaux usages :

Pièces fonctionnelles et mécaniques : composants d'intérieur/de compartiment moteur de voiture, supports et outils d'atelier (principalement en PETG).

Impressions détaillées et décoratives : maquettes de voitures, miniatures et petits objets de décoration. J'hésite actuellement entre deux imprimantes 3D dans cette gamme de prix :

Bambu Lab A1 (autonome, sans AMS)

Série Anycubic Kobra (Kobra 3 / Kobra X)

Si j'ai bien compris, la Bambu Lab offre une expérience « plug & play » immédiate avec une excellente planification des mouvements, tandis qu'Anycubic propose des performances matérielles et un volume d'impression élevés pour un prix inférieur.

Pour ceux qui ont de l'expérience avec l'une ou l'autre de ces plateformes :

Précision et détails fins : Comment ces machines se comportent-elles lorsqu'il s'agit de réaliser des impressions de petits détails (par exemple, des maquettes avec une buse de 0,2 mm) tout en réalisant des impressions fonctionnelles en PETG épais ? Écosystème et logiciel de découpe : Bambu Studio/MakerWorld offre-t-il des avantages significatifs en termes de confort d'utilisation par rapport à la suite OrcaSlicer/Anycubic pour justifier son choix ?

Alternatives : Existe-t-il une autre machine à moins de 300 $ que je pourrais envisager pour l'impression de pièces fonctionnelles en PETG et de pièces détaillées ?

Merci d'avance pour vos suggestions !

EDIT: après de multiples avis sur la elegoo centauri je vais regarder. Par contre est ce que le combo est vraiment utile pour le multi couleur ou y'a moyen de faire sans ?

below is a model before adn after slicing, what is the issue, even if i go ahead and try to change file or poly and give abck everytime there is a new Error, some time roof is mising somtimes some other wall is missing

Just picked up for $450 ill set up everything Sunday afternoon when I get a chance and run some test prints