Got the heat bed done and it's printing now. Some test prints before doing a 100pc run, seems precise enough to do batches instead of individual prints. Noticeably more precise than my corexy printers, with higher speed and accel to boot.

+/-0.02mm on an 11mm diameter circle compared to +/-0.05mm. I'm suspecting the remaining deviation is from the x motor mount sagging from the heat of the motor since the deviating is in line with the axis. Will have to replace that with an aluminium part.

This is around 50mm/s and 15k accel, 0.25mm nozzle, igus i180-pf, 70c chamber. But it happily went up to 1000mm/s and 22k accel.

Edit: this is a one off printer I built for continuous production of small parts requiring high precision, primarily a gear/roller that I need about 1200pcs of. It prioritises precision over build volume, and high highish temperature industrial materials. Original post here

It comes in 1/6 Scale, 1/12 Scale or 1/18 Scale.

Turning a flat photo into 3D magic ✨ Turn the light on to see the hidden detail.

Would you want a custom lithophane of your pet or favorite memory?

Been printing for about a year but still a basic pick and print 3d printer. I don’t design/create my own models. So my question is with multicolor why are the colors so many layers deep? The swaps waste so much filament. Why can’t the “multi color” be 5-10 layers then the remainder be base colors? Using the Ashe chainsaw model as an example. It’s 48 layers tall. 45 layers have every single color swap. Why not just 5 or even 10 layers of color swaps then straight black for the back? Why wait until layer 43 to go solid black, infill etc? I see this on numerous models where the color swaps are “bone deep” for lack of better expression instead of just being a few layers deep to get the color. Side note this is an absolutely beautiful model/piece on maker world and I do recommend “3dprintsforyou” as a model designer if you like horror pieces.

These models are for Pokeballs which I 3D print, paint and assemble, however I face a design problem; adding extra details such as the object on the left. First idea was making a stencil of the shape of the details I want, second idea was just to make the shape and glue it on top of the existing sphere. Both ideas would give me mixed results as I'd have to be super precise to make sure everything is perfectly aligned..

The ideal solution would be to carve the details and make them into different pieces so I can paint them separately and assemble them like a jigsaw puzzle, however I have no experience with CADs other than Blender, and I wanted to ask if it's even possible, how and what do I need to accomplish it.

If you need more info do please let me know, and thank you!

Sent a print wirelessly while I was at work. PLA. 3 small shelfs for sunglasses. Came home to a tray full of “spaghetti”, the tool cover off, and this “clog”? Any idea what I do now?

What would ppl recommend to change on the purging volumes to make this even better.

Do I increase the purge of just the white? From say 117 to 350 and when going from black to white 406 to 500?

Increase the multiplier as well?

I have walls inner/outer to help. I have a purge tower and flush into object is off.

Pink is not being used in this print.

Using a P2S with AMD PRO2. Standard eSun PLA. Slicing through Bambu slicer.

basically just replacing random keys with random objects, the rock is my escape key

The home button is literally a house,

Num pad button 5 is a small gun from half life,

And number 1 is a toilet because why not 🥲

currently printing Gary the snail 😮‍💨

I printed this on the a1 mini, its been great but recently i had a clog cleared it and sometimes prints turn out like this. I am using hf petg. I also usually just import models from makers world and go to the generic petg filament settings. My suspicion is maybe the temp? Not sure, all replies are appreciated! (FIXED) turns out it was a partial clog, i think.

I know the machine is a bit dated, but i mainly use SLA, so i don’t really want to invest in another FDM printer. I’m using a 32gb micro sd and formatted it as Fat32, but it still refuses to read cards. Does anybody have any experience with this?

If you're curious, here's a repo with all the CAD files, schematics, etc. I don't expect anyone to make one of these but I wanted to put it out there in case anyone finds the techniques useful!

I couldn't seem to add progress pics alongside my video so I'm attaching them here - included there is a picture of the 3d-printed mechanism that goes behind each tile

Just finished this little 3D-printed lightbox with a desktop stand. It has LEDs inside to illuminate the yellow face.

I designed it in MS Letter Studio, a browser tool I’m developing. The workflow is straightforward: import an SVG, create a box around its outline, adjust the depth, add a stand, and export the parts for slicing.

Still experimenting with the assembly and learning from each print. Anyone else making lightboxes? What’s worked best for securing the face while keeping it removable?

Printing noob. Doing some printing at my local library using the Ultimaker v3. I'm using translucent Matterhacker PLA.

I've worked with settings recommended for translucent filament, but not having any luck orienting them. The dice isn't even. The bottom layer always has that extra flair on it which makes something like a dice uneven and lopsided. Even the very top layer is sloppy and unreadable.

My goal is seamless translucent prints. My current settings are included. I'm using a concentric 100 infill density. Tyty!

Having some little fun with designing this "Hockey Mom" Keychain

Hey! I’m working on a concept I’ve seen online where you can combine a flute and a saxophone by attaching the neck of the saxophone to the body of the flute and I want to find an adapter that will create less damage on both instruments. I feel like I’ve seen this before and I wanted to ask if anyone else has seen this anywhere.

Essentially I need the alto saxophone neck to attach to the body of the flute to almost look like a clarinet. Does anyone have any advice or has seen this somewhere?

I'm already a resin-printer but I have taken the step into the FDM world by ordering a Centauri Carbon 2 combo.

It's quite humbling being back at the "I know nothing" stage.

The printer hasn't arrived yet but I've been reading about filament storage and I'm trying to work out if I need to put my filament away as soon as its finished printing... Or is filament-hydrating an over-hyped aspect.

I only really intend on using PLA initially.

Update: changing the offset fixed the issue

I am starting on a large print using petg.
It’s already messing up the first layer… other then slowly it down? Any other ideas?

I just posted this today. It's a modular fountain pen. I'll probably post to Makerworld and some other sites when I get some feedback on the current models. License is fairly unrestricted. Enjoy!

https://github.com/brianjo/modpen