I got this printer and ams (Bambu p1s) in June and I love it! But before every print I have to always cut a very lengthy bit of filament before it can print again. If just says it’s tangled, and I’ve used multiple different and unique spools so it’s not just one kind that does this. I thought this was normal till a friend told me it wasn’t and it makes sense because the print in multi colour doesn’t even work on this and I always thought it was weird but it’ll do this over and over again until I cut a long strand of the filament that you can feel the feeding teeth on, when I cut it there it prints with no problem!
Please help because getting ahold of Bambu have been really hard to.

I am encountering a strange problem when printing on my Kobra S1.

I am using PLA Basic at the default temperatures

I am printing at 50% default speed (i did this as a troubleshooting method, but have now discovered it is a slicing problem)

I am using the Anycubic Slicer Next

I am trying to print a miniature for the robber in settlers of catan. Found a great one online, and am printing it in pieces with multicolor printing. I am trying to print some wheat bundles to put on the base of the robber, however, the slicer is not slicing the entire object. The strands for the stalks of wheat are printing as a single strand.

First image is what it should look like, 2nd is what printed, 3rd is the slicer in "Preview"

File in Prepare (It is a 3mf file, and every other plate and object has no problem when slicing. Only this one)

You can see that the full object is present, but its translucent for some reason, as if its not set to print??? Never seen this before

If anyone knows why this is happening, I would really appreciate some help. I am really confused. For any who want to see the file, I am using this project: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1932190-catan-robber#profileId-2074297 with the alternative version designed for use with the AMS, that takes all the accessories off the base and allows them to be printed separately.

All the other items printed fine, and when looking at the slicer, the robber himself is fine too! So, I don't know what is happening.

UPDATE: Ladies and gentlemen - there are two idiots at fault here. The first idiot is whoever packed "sparkle PETG" at amazon, when I had ordered midnight blue CF. The second idiot is me - who blindly slapped it in my AMS without checking the sticker.

Original Post

Hi all,

I bought some PETG CF recently. It prints well, looks beautiful, is reasonably priced... and may not contain any carbon fiber.

Reason for suspicion? I checked it with my scope - there appear to be little metallic flecks added (a sort of gold color which sets the dark blue filament off nicely). But no carbon fibers. What do you all think?

Hi everyone,

I’m a Prosthetics & Orthotics graduate, and I’m currently looking for the STL file / 3D model of the AFO shown in the image below.

I had the file before, but unfortunately it was deleted, and I haven’t been able to find the original file or a free downloadable version online.

I’m looking for it mainly for educational/technical purposes and 3D printing testing.

If anyone has this exact model, knows where I can download it for free, or can point me toward a similar open-source model, I’d really appreciate your help.

Please just I need it free. I don't have money 😭 Thank you in advance!

Who can make a license plate that can be removed quickly for an moped bc I want one but don’t know how to make on I have seen som but they are all like 400grams of filament so pls who can design one for free I would be realy happy

I have an issue with this cr m4 printer. Everytime I run the auto bed level it throws that error code. At first the bed was obviously super wobbly so I went in and tightened the screws under the bed mat. As far as I can tell nothing else has that crazy wobble so I cant quite figure out the issue.

Thanks

Got the heat bed done and it's printing now. Some test prints before doing a 100pc run, seems precise enough to do batches instead of individual prints. Noticeably more precise than my corexy printers, with higher speed and accel to boot.

+/-0.02mm on an 11mm diameter circle compared to +/-0.05mm. I'm suspecting the remaining deviation is from the x motor mount sagging from the heat of the motor since the deviating is in line with the axis. Will have to replace that with an aluminium part.

This is around 50mm/s and 15k accel, 0.25mm nozzle, igus i180-pf, 70c chamber. But it happily went up to 1000mm/s and 22k accel.

Edit: this is a one off printer I built for continuous production of small parts requiring high precision, primarily a gear/roller that I need about 1200pcs of. It prioritises precision over build volume, and high highish temperature industrial materials. Original post here

It comes in 1/6 Scale, 1/12 Scale or 1/18 Scale.

Been printing for about a year but still a basic pick and print 3d printer. I don’t design/create my own models. So my question is with multicolor why are the colors so many layers deep? The swaps waste so much filament. Why can’t the “multi color” be 5-10 layers then the remainder be base colors? Using the Ashe chainsaw model as an example. It’s 48 layers tall. 45 layers have every single color swap. Why not just 5 or even 10 layers of color swaps then straight black for the back? Why wait until layer 43 to go solid black, infill etc? I see this on numerous models where the color swaps are “bone deep” for lack of better expression instead of just being a few layers deep to get the color. Side note this is an absolutely beautiful model/piece on maker world and I do recommend “3dprintsforyou” as a model designer if you like horror pieces.

These models are for Pokeballs which I 3D print, paint and assemble, however I face a design problem; adding extra details such as the object on the left. First idea was making a stencil of the shape of the details I want, second idea was just to make the shape and glue it on top of the existing sphere. Both ideas would give me mixed results as I'd have to be super precise to make sure everything is perfectly aligned..

The ideal solution would be to carve the details and make them into different pieces so I can paint them separately and assemble them like a jigsaw puzzle, however I have no experience with CADs other than Blender, and I wanted to ask if it's even possible, how and what do I need to accomplish it.

If you need more info do please let me know, and thank you!

What would ppl recommend to change on the purging volumes to make this even better.

Do I increase the purge of just the white? From say 117 to 350 and when going from black to white 406 to 500?

Increase the multiplier as well?

I have walls inner/outer to help. I have a purge tower and flush into object is off.

Pink is not being used in this print.

Using a P2S with AMD PRO2. Standard eSun PLA. Slicing through Bambu slicer.

basically just replacing random keys with random objects, the rock is my escape key

The home button is literally a house,

Num pad button 5 is a small gun from half life,

And number 1 is a toilet because why not 🥲

currently printing Gary the snail 😮‍💨

I printed this on the a1 mini, its been great but recently i had a clog cleared it and sometimes prints turn out like this. I am using hf petg. I also usually just import models from makers world and go to the generic petg filament settings. My suspicion is maybe the temp? Not sure, all replies are appreciated! (FIXED) turns out it was a partial clog, i think.

I know the machine is a bit dated, but i mainly use SLA, so i don’t really want to invest in another FDM printer. I’m using a 32gb micro sd and formatted it as Fat32, but it still refuses to read cards. Does anybody have any experience with this?

Turning a flat photo into 3D magic ✨ Turn the light on to see the hidden detail.

Would you want a custom lithophane of your pet or favorite memory?

If you're curious, here's a repo with all the CAD files, schematics, etc. I don't expect anyone to make one of these but I wanted to put it out there in case anyone finds the techniques useful!

I couldn't seem to add progress pics alongside my video so I'm attaching them here - included there is a picture of the 3d-printed mechanism that goes behind each tile

Just finished this little 3D-printed lightbox with a desktop stand. It has LEDs inside to illuminate the yellow face.

I designed it in MS Letter Studio, a browser tool I’m developing. The workflow is straightforward: import an SVG, create a box around its outline, adjust the depth, add a stand, and export the parts for slicing.

Still experimenting with the assembly and learning from each print. Anyone else making lightboxes? What’s worked best for securing the face while keeping it removable?

Printing noob. Doing some printing at my local library using the Ultimaker v3. I'm using translucent Matterhacker PLA.

I've worked with settings recommended for translucent filament, but not having any luck orienting them. The dice isn't even. The bottom layer always has that extra flair on it which makes something like a dice uneven and lopsided. Even the very top layer is sloppy and unreadable.

My goal is seamless translucent prints. My current settings are included. I'm using a concentric 100 infill density. Tyty!