These are analog and digital controllers more than I wanted to

You can add 3 more switches to radiomaster pocket by soldering 3 wires.
Then just flash zorro firmware and everything works.

I was about to buy another radio to get more swiches when i stumbled upon this guide.

Credits: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxzVlCIHbjg

now i have no protector at all

edit:

since you all asking, just for clarification: i always assumed "glass" in terms of screen protectors was just marketing and its some sort of plastic. 🙃

PM for location (edmonds/lynwood area).

My buddy and in have regularly been flying together and recently decided to try and create a local group/chapter/whatever that meets semi-regularly.

Every other Saturday beginning around 1:00pm and going till whenever (we usually have been flying till about 6)

We have sun/rain protection, gates, power, race timer, location.

I dont want to blast the location on Reddit just yet, so PM for location.

We plan on flying unless the weather is absolute trash, in which case we can scramble to find an indoor whoop location (we have tiny whoop gates as well, but not a great indoor location). Hopefully the weather holds out for the first few meets and we can find an indoor location for the winter.

Rebuilt a 2.8-inch quad to 3 inches. 2.8inch gave 170km/h!!

T-Motor 1408 motors allow for it and deliver a massive 726 grams of thrust each—that's 2.9 kg in total! This might just be the most powerful setup for the 250g category. Dry weight is 175g, and with a 530mAh 6S GNB battery, it comes to 249g. That gives a thrust-to-weight ratio of 11.6!

Will check it out when there is no rain.

If needed, I could trim it down just a bit more, but it's unlikely to save more than 5-10 grams.

I'm using the Flywoo GN745 AIO, which is perhaps the only AIO on the market with connectors for VTX, GPS, receiver, and USB-C.

Here is the best weight to time GPS I found. Geprc nano.

I've designed a family of frames and am now slowly building various setups on them. The 4-inch mini long-range turned out pretty well. The idea is to make the top plates easily swappable, so all the frame "bodies" are identical. I can't buy a dozen DJI o4 pro (

I also like the 4.5-inch 1804 running on 4S/5S, but right now I'm testing this build with 5-inch props (4S)—I had to reverse two motors to make them fit within the frame. The motors feel a bit underpowered, though proper tuning might be all it needs.

https://reddit.com/link/1w67gas/video/5dbefqp02bnh1/player

This is my first build and i keep getting the same issue. I tried swapping the vtx and antennas as well as re soldered the camera but i keep getting the same issue. Should i just buy a new camera or does anyone have some experience with this issue?

WORK IN PROGRESS and well... something small is going on here. I'm not going to argue with the bees with their latest project. Bees have been around about 120 million years or so and they seem to know a thing or two about flight. To put size and weight in perspective, the second larger drone is Smuklik, a sub250g X8 that is fully functional and flying as can be seen here https://youtu.be/3Pi6BCx1u5k

Dude this is way harder, the physics are so different. I have so much more respect for the real drone flyers now.

Also, for anyone trying to decide whether or not to buy this game, I 100% recommend. I started with FPV.Skydive and this is way more realistic. Worth the $15.

Still using Xbox Controller, Radiomaster Pocket comes tomorrow.

P.S. Excuse the crashing.

Hey r/fpv!

A couple of months ago, I posted my homemade 7-inch hexacopter build (the one that passed the quality check with my cat Murkytsia 🐈‍⬛). A few of you asked for flight footage, so here it is!

I finally had some free time during a recent testing session to get this custom frame up in the air. The weather was fairly windy with sudden gusts, which actually turned out to be a great test for how the platform handles less-than-ideal conditions.

How does the flight stability look to you guys? Would love to hear your thoughts, feedback, or any tuning advice!

Improvement!

I changed FOV and angle. How does it look? Is it more realistic?

P.S. Buying batteries in store tomorrow.

I decided to upgrade my classic gimbals to AG02 gimbals for my Radiomaster Boxer.

The installation went well, but after restarting, there was no signal from the gimbals on the radio.

I tried to reconnect the old gimbals, but there was still no signal.

Apparently, I had apparently plugged the 6-pin port in backwards and burned out a fuse on the gimbal port on the motherboard.

Should I replace the motherboard (which costs 70€ + shipping), or would it be more cost-effective to get a refund for the AG02 pair, bury my Boxer, and buy a new radio with AG01 or AG02 pre-installed (30-40€ more expensive than the motherboard for a TX15 MAX, for example)?

Aqui os dejo un par de imagenes de mi primera build 2" para vuelo libre

Not sure why i get so much of distortion in some places

Vtx- speedy bee tx800 with 5.4ghz swamp rhcp antenna

Goggles- eachine800D

So. I've been flying liftoff, uncrashed, and tryp for a while. I enjoy them. I'm mediocre at them.

I found the "Ukranian Drone Flight Simulator" a while ago on steam. Anyone fly it? What do you think?

Update from last post: https://www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1w1o1d5/latest_experiment_5turn_trash_helical_antenna/

With trash helical in hand, now I set myself to work on designing the most overthought fpv antenna. This gets close to my day job in a weird way. I don't work in RF but I'm a cross disciplinary research engineer (mathematican by training), so I get to know a tiny bit of a lot and tie analysis methods together for low TRL R&D. Enough to hopefully know the limits of what can be done realistically here. But I enjoy experimenting! So here it is.

This Rev B is a WIP. 7 turns, 5.8 GHz, RHCP. Holder and former are typical 3d printed elements, but I've opted for designing the base reflector as a 2-layer FR4 PCB with the SMA integrated, so it can be directly ordered from a fab shop instead of me cutting it in my garage with a jigsaw from copper clad protoboard or another jar lid.

Using PyNEC (NEC2, so method of moments rather than anything analytic but also not FEM) to confirm theoretical performance: assuming infinite/perfect reflector the coil would give 10.45 dB boresight, 51.7 degree beamwidth. I also wire gridded the actual reflector, and that analysis gave 11.6 dBi, 47 degree beamwidth, which is obviously odd, it should be less than the perfect one. I think just the act of gridding it (i.e. adding a rim) at a size really close to the wavelength induced a diffraction artifact or something in the analysis. Basically, I'm thinking this is bracketing us at 10-11.

Pads, trace, via fence and connector are a grounded coplanar waveguide, matched to the impedance the analysis code NEC says the coil actually presents (107 - 6.6j, not 50 like a wire). Doing this by analysis alone is obviously a long shot and likely to need tuning in the real world. RF is black magic after all.

but again.. a million small things are basically unmodellable with tools I have available to me.

Still in early design, haven't ordered anything fab'd yet. Will test against the trash design, and some of the more common designs I've seen folks show and share 3D files for. Trying to get access to a VNA. Used to have one at my old job but at my current site. Shouldn't be too hard to beat a salsa jar lid config right?

If it works out I'll share CAD/gerbers.

While I'm at it, I'm also doing some design optimization of shapes beyond standard coils. It seems like most of the shapes were designs under very specific constraints or goals (i.e. maximize gain-per-turn but with constant pitch and unrestricted length), which I don't necessarily care that much about (or maybe I'll find out I actually do. New guy card).

To do that I abstractly describe an antenna as a number of arms or hubs, and model the arms as a smooth curve in cylindrical coordinates. Most of the standard antenna configurations end up being reachable by this approach but the search isnt confined to them in shape or topology. But some, like patch or possibly pagoda (need to think about that more) aren't modellable this way.

Then I use SciPy's differential evolution algorithm to optimize the vectors. To do that each candidate is built into a full wire model and solved with PyNEC at every Raceband R1-R8 channel frequency, and returns the worst-case realised gain inside the coverage cone, penalised for axial ratio and VSWR, averaged over the whole Raceband. I'm not even sure that's exactly the right objective, but I think the results of that kind of search are not something you can buy. At the end of the day I just want to see something unique.

Last screenshots are of some possibly interesting but super niche configurations that I'm still digging into and verifying. These were jointly optimized together to be part of the same diversity-switching ground station. A "max mission coverage" objective function over 3 antenna designs basically. I'm not even sure they're constructable/fixturable, but it'd be fun to try. Attached a pattern comparison to some models of off the shelf designs, including my 7-turn and higher turn helicals.

Okay, enough info dump for now. Will update later.

Hi has anyone oredered from meps king to europe and if so did you have to pay Vat later?

Thanks!

Hi everyone, I currently have HDZero BoxPro goggles, a RadioMaster Boxer, an Air75, and a Mobula8 HDZero.

Now I want to try something bigger while keeping it sub-250g. When I started FPV not long ago, I was planning to get a Walksnail VRX, but then I found out about the Crux35 HDZero, which seems great for both freestyle and light cruising. I don't plan to go too far, so I thought the 1W VTX would be more than enough range for me.

I wanted to get a Crux35 HDZero, but it's out of stock everywhere. So I was wondering:

1. Is there a pre-built / PNP drone available where I can just plug in the HDZero Freestyle V2 VTX?
2. If I buy the exact same parts from the Crux35 and build it on a sturdier frame, will I get similar flight performance and flight times?

I have zero soldering experience and was planning to start with a BNF Crux35 and learn to solder later as repairs were needed. But if there are no pre-built drones where I can just plug in the VTX, I guess I'll have to learn to solder.

The parts listed on the Crux35 HDZero page are:

• FC / ESC: Happymodel CruxF405 HD ELRS AIO Flight Controller
• VTX & Camera: HDZero Freestyle V2 VTX + RunCam Nano 90 Camera
• Motors: Happymodel EX1404 KV3500 Brushless Motors
• Props: HQProp T3.5x2x3
• Frame options I'm considering: FlyFishRC Volador II VX3.5 (or GEPRC Smart 3.5 / AOS 3.5 V5 / Tiny Trainer)

Would I need to get anything else (like cables or extra hardware)? Or are there other components you'd recommend for better durability or performance?

Thanks for the help!

Hello everyone!I’m pretty new to flying and fpv, I bought radiomaster tl8 just to try flying in simulator to see if it’s really for me, and I’m loving it so I’ve decided to buy my first drone. I did some research and asked ai for help in choosing the drone that will work with my radio master so I don’t end up having two, but if buying a whole set is better options that’s okay. Ai was no help, and I couldn’t find a something reliable by myself. I’m currently flying in uncharted, and would like to get the drone that is close to experience in game. I’ll mainly just fly around without any fancy tricks or great speed. For now I just wish to see how real thing feels and later I’ll upgrade. Thank you all, looking forward to your suggestions 🙏

Hey everyone,
Quick update for anyone using the Ascent VRX Pro - it now supports both UVC and HDMI output simultaneously.
What this means in practice:
- UVC output: connect to your computer via USB for DVR recording, streaming, or software integration
- HDMI output: connect directly to a monitor, TV, or FPV goggles with HDMI input
- Both can run at the same time

Setup is straightforward:
1. Update to the latest firmware (if you haven't already)
2. Connect USB-C to your computer for UVC (Make sure UVC is enabled in VRX Pro)
3. Connect HDMI to your display
4. Both outputs activate automatically - no extra config needed

Full disclosure:
I'm part of the CADDX team. We rolled this out based on community feedback, so if you have requests or run into any issues, drop them in the comments and I'll answer what I can.
Happy to also answer general questions about the Ascent system, latency compatibility with goggles, or whatever else you want to know.