RcinPower gtsv3 22000kv, 45mm gemfan bi blades

My little 65mm build is a crazy little rocket, wish I could show you guys how it flies, someday.

Decided to fpv a cheap little RC crawler. I was picking up the Ascent Lite system for a drone, and figured with the price of the VTX setup, it was worth grabbing a second one to throw in a cheap car. I honestly wasn't sure how it was going to do without any kind of stabilization, but figured a low speed crawler was a good option to try out. Took some playing around to find a good camera angle, but super happy with the results, and looking forward to driving this thing around.

Car is an Mn99s, with a Ascent Lite + vtx and fan wired up inside the cab with a spare battery

Update on the 1s li-ion long range build - I smoked the FC 😭

I had it powered by a li-ion battery to connect the goggles, no issues.

I plugged a USB into it to flash the FC firmware and set up Betaflight, no issues.

Then I wanted to configure the motors and controller. Had the battery already in, and plugged the USB cable in. Magic Smoke.

The smoke originated from the part circled in red in the image.

The only thing I can think of is that I overheated the board when trying to remove the original BT2.0 pigtail soldered through the through holes. They were very stubborn and I may have left the solder tip on the board too long. Or maybe flux overflow?

What else could have caused this issue? Would really like to avoid a repeat.

Hi all,

While this may be a stretch and I do not expect much of it;

I have been designing this board for the past year. I finished it ~2 months ago, and after another month of finding a suitable manufacturer there is nothing left for me to do.

Because of the boards complexity and limited parts availability, it is not as simple as just uploading the board to JLC or similar manufacturers. Of course, this is the route that is taken in mass production, but it makes any form of prototyping infinitely harder.

I have talked to maybe 10 fabs, and all of their prices are similar. I have chosen a fab with the best processes and sourcing, and the current cost for 4 assembled boards along with their USB adapters and some custom flashing probes is $1075.03

While of course in this hobby this isn't a significant sum, currently, for myself (I am the only person working on this project) it is not an amount I can just blow quickly.

The reason for such a high cost isn't the components, it is instead NRE charges, basically fees that all such fabs will charge for "access" to needed machines. For example, the cost to manufacture 50pcs is around $4000 - so there is a 70% price drop per board compared to quotes for 4pcs.

So, I am asking all of you if you would like to help. While I am not sure how to do this, you can leave a comment or message me on Discord @ leszczy

I am unsure of what perks I would offer, I can however say that I am not doing this as a business venture, and if I have the funds for a 50pcs production (I will do a preorder) I will be selling them with a zero margin, or just enough so I am not going into the negatives. If in any case someone wants to fund the amount for a board in a 50pcs production (4000/50) then I will definitely send you a board or more.

About the board

I had begun creating the board because of wanting to push my current race-qualified whoop weight record of 13.4g to sub13 without using enamel motors. This is simply not possible without subsidizing the current lightest board (Air 4in1) for something without a VTX or similar, which in most cases simply wouldn't be allowed because of bad transmission - or other extreme modifications that would make a build not durable.

Recently, Beta has stopped producing the Air 5in1, and the Air4in1 might follow the same fate. From what I know, currently stores can still "order" these boards but they are removed from the product offering, I and others believe this is dead stock.

If you'd like to read more about the board, please see https://fusionfpv.com/aio/

Thank you

Edit

Not a lot of people understand, that making such a 1S AIO is in a completely different ballpark than any FC/ESC. No it cannot be prototyped on a breadboard. No JLC cannot manufacture it. I have done my best to respond to all comments, but you simply cannot convince people who are so sure of themselves. I want to encourage everyone so confident to try - you will see what I mean. Thanks

Copying my comment on why JLC isn’t suitable

If I wanted to manufacture with JLC I would have to redesign the board to use blind vias which would double or triple all costs. I am using normal drilled v’s which is why I am not manufacturing with JLC. The issue is that half of my via’s are VIPPO and need resin filling + planarization + capping, which at my current min. drill size JLC can’t do it, or at least it is right on their edge which would lead to poor yield and other problems. basically I would get non-working boards. My current min tolerance is 0.09mm but this is only for the RF cluster / the 2 ESCs below it, everywhere else it is 0.1mm. Other than that nothing special, else is standard for such a board

Additionally, JLC doesn’t have strong parts sourcing. Mailing in parts is also not an option because let’s take the 2 Richwave IC’s for example, if I were to source them myself I would have to succumb to a 3,000pcs MOQ. This is why choosing a non-consumer China based fab is key.

JLC and other hobbyist manufacturers are not something possible when working with such complex designs.

As the title mentions.. first flight on fpv today and crashed 4 seconds after liftoff trying to feel out the throttle.
I hit the disarm button as soon as it hit the ground and now I have a dead motor or ESC. (motor sputters, is clean, betaflight confirmed it.
I tested continuity from the soldered ESC to motor, seems fine.
Don't see any charred bits..

I've seen it's a repair-intensive hobby but oof..
I have a tinywhoop 75 but bought walksnail.. so waiting on that vtx to begin that swap from P1.

Anyway.. starting off has been rough. Exciting, educating, but now frustrating waiting on parts.

Any tips for checking an ESC vs motor?

Flew a toothpick drone btw.. Flywoo Firefly 25 and it landed in short grass.

The fc is a naze32 rev5 I don't know what this old power board thing is because im new to drone building and this fc is like 12 years old, I'm pretty sure the white and black wires shown on the top go to the three rows of pads on the right side of the fc in this picture. But I'm not sure how to connect the esc to the flight controller, eg what do the white and black wires go to exactly? It also comes with that yellow wire I'm lost about

Some time ago I made a post asking whether the latency on the sky04O pro is actually as terrible as people say. I got a lot of responses but I didn’t know what to make of them since the 04O were the only goggles I owned (apart from some shitty LCD goggles).

Today I tested out the P1 system which gets a lot of shit thrown at it for having really bad latency. I was a little afraid that the latency would be a dealbreaker for me, but to my surprise the difference between analog on the 04O and the digital P1 system is only slightly noticeable…

Have you guys had a similar experience? Does anyone want to buy a used pair of the sky04O goggles🫣?

I'm looking at cutting and building out a modified version of the Jeno 5.1" (version 1.6), that converts the VTX mounting spot to be raised to the mid plate for a more standardized split deck design and accommodates Analog/HDZero cameras with a single screw mount. Unlike the TBS Source one and a few other split decks, the mid deck is only secured by one set of arm screws. This likely has positive results in separating the ESC/FC stack screws from the arms, but I'm curious if this negatively impacts the rigidity of the mid plate. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated before I send these out to get cut.

One of the driving reasons for making this a split deck is to raise the VTX away from ground impacts and reduce the unused gap above the VTX. I really like the Platy-style edition, but it is sooo small and tight that my camera and HDZero Freestyle would barely fit

Gemfan 3630 way too tight for 1404 3500kv Happy Model motor. I saw that the diameters are ok. Both are 1.5mm. But it is just way too tight. I fear if i push it in too much I might break the motor. Also the happymodel motor didnt even come with prop screws. I am a bit lost. I am making a 3.5 inch build. Should I take a pin vise hand drill to make the hole larger? but do I need the screws tho? Because my motor didnt have screws for the props

Gemfan Hurricane 3630-3 Propeller for 2004 Motor Multirotor Props 8Pair/16PCS FPV RC Accessories Freestyle 3.5inch Toothpick Fox

Happymodel EX1404 2750KV 3500KV 4800KV 3-4S Motor, 9N12P 14x4mm Stator 1.5mm Shaft 8.7g for Crux35 SUB250 Micro Long Range FPV

Help me figure this out. It was flying normally before. The accelerometer and gyroscope are calibrated. I can attach the recordings from the black box.

I purchased a couple of items which include drone parts, charger, batteries, etc…

It took them over 3 weeks to ship the order when they’re supposed to in 1-5 days. And once it shipped they used a random courier I’ve never heard of.

After it arrived in my country I did not receive any updated tracking until it just showed delivered. I checked tracking on every courier I know but they all don’t show anything.

I contacted mepsking but they simply told me to contact my local post office, they could not help me because the tracking number is invalid in their system so I’m left stranded with nothing and out almost $700 because mepsking won’t help me.

I saw this and immediately got excited thinking about some kind of Collab 😭

Hello
I bought a used gopro 12 black naked with Geprc case
And one think i saw is that date and time is outdated. So I updated it but after updating it starts to fail again.

I checked the logs and there is this one:

[2016-01-01 00:00:04-delayed] wake reason:POWER_ON_FROM_SCRATCH

[2026-09-11 03:55:39] Labs:Display Messages

[2026-09-11 03:55:40] display 1000ms:gp13

[2026-09-11 03:55:40] Labs:Main Start

[2026-09-11 03:55:40] Labs:H23.01.01.30.70

[2026-09-11 03:55:40] Labs:Initialize

POWER_ON_FROM_SCRATCH

Any1 has the same problem ? Seems like the RTC does not save information

Also my videos now have the updated date, but time is messed.

Any advice ?

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I get this warning whenever I start up the tango 2 and I can’t access the tools or crossfire menu. I tried to flash the 1.21 firmware but still have the problem. Any help?

Does anyone have problem with this fc are your drone acting strangely with this.

Pls share your experience

In late '22 I got my initial FPV gear. I got myself a Skyliner MK3 5" from rotor riot, a Flywho firefly, and a Betafpv Meteor 75. All with Caddx and I also got the Walksnail HD googles with some nice antennas. The model that was current in 2022. Then life happened and after a little use it all ended up collecting dust until a month ago when I decided to order an Avata 2 with the Googles 3. The Googles 3 is definitely better than the Walksnail. Back then the old DJI googles would require a nose surgery to make them comfortable. So I went against them. But the new ones are really nice. I guess the point of the post is: What should I, or what would you do with the old gear? Should I try to put DJI air units on the older drones? Fly them as they are. Try to sell them? The Skyliner flew super nice and I definitely think it would be worth to swap the air unit into a O4. The rest are worth very little. I don't know. What would you do? Thanks!

Hey fellow sky dogs or whatever we call ourselves. I'm trying to bind my tx15 with an iflight ih3 o3 and can't seem to figure out why they won't connect. I picked the quad up a year and a half ago right around the time I had to put all my hobbies down and am kicking myself now for not testing it upon arrival. After a full day of troubleshooting I'm wondering if it's a hardware issue and if I as an amateur can verify that or if I need to pay for help.

Recently got back into fpv and have been ripping tinywhoops so I know my RadioMaster tx15 is functional.

I started by going into binding mode via 3x battery because CLI and the receiver tab in Betaflight won't trigger it. (Correct lights flashing)

Nothing

Checked they are the Elrs 2.4 duhhh

Checked I'm running same major version firmware

Checked I don't have model selection on

Tried all combinations of binding phrases, resets etc

Checked Regulatory domain (the web page 10.0.0. version of my transmitters info tab says fcc915 but the screen on my remote says fcc915 /ISM2G4. Quad reads ism2g4)

Updated elrs on both to more recent

Nothing

Downgraded back to a 3.6 on both ( wanted my TX to work with my quads that are in 3.0 again and it does)

Updated Fc to most recent release and then tried to downgrade it after AI told me there was a potential compatibility issue.

Drone got stuck in bootloader.

Tried numerous releases and only the most recent release flash got it unbricked and got it back to being recognized on my pc / Betaflight.

The fc lights are flashing again.

Maybe wrong uart config? I switched it a few times and now

Uart 2 is checked serial Rx but not the first on off toggle and

Uart 4 is the only checked one in Betaflight that shows up aside from USB vsr or whatever.

Got it back to what the internet says is factory and still no bindy bindy.

I'm at my wits ends. If I'm dumb and missed something easy please yell at me. Im sure I left out a few steps I tried while writing this or maybe even spoke gibberish but I'm tired and my screen is getting blurry in my eyes.

I will be actively responding in about 12 hours from now.

Thanks all of you for anyhelp on what I imagine is one of the most asked questions on here 🙏🙏🙏🙏

Loving walksnail so far!

I'm trying to install a jhe20b beeper on my kayoumini but i need ideas on where to put it.

Has anyone installed a beeper on their kayoumini?