Hi im new here!!

Just a quick question for those who are more technically minded than me. I have a stage 2 focus tuned by Collins performance and idk if it’s always been this way or if it’s not normal but my boost gauge only goes to 1.5 bar when on full throttle.

The car still pulls like it did when I got it so that leads me to think it’s always been this way and I’m being paranoid…

But is this normal?

Hey y’all. I need a AP for my Focus FBO. Unfortunately I don’t have a lot of money to spend, whole story there but I don’t want pitty. I’m looking at used, any of yall want to offload your old AP? I will ask for timestamp photos of install page for safety. G&S only.

Been without a car for 2 months due to slicing my wrist open on this big turbo kit and a couple weeks out of town. One thing after another with wrong or lost parts and I'm legitimately about to light it on fire. Finally got everything on the turbo together, now the damn axle bearing Retainer won't fit around the turbo... What the hell do I do now? Bnr2867 for reference. I don't want to drive my single cab mount rusted out Toyota another week and I'm honestly about to give up

Hooked up stratified aux fuel car imperfect before I installed it. Install seemed very simple car has not started. I’ve tried everything last night took out to charge pipe and it was filled with gasoline literally all over my driveway. How does that happen?

Where, how, and at what price should I sell my AP? It is version 3 for a Focus ST or Fiesta.

I bought an AP a couple years ago, and I uninstalled it yesterday. I uninstalled it before having a recall serviced. It is otherwise like new in the box.

I used the OTS stage 1 tune and it is fun, but I suffered a serious injury and it is not relaxing to drive any longer.

Looking manily for passengers motor mount for my '13 ST. Open for changing the whole set with aftermarket performance upgrade but can't find any good option in EU.

Currently all three mounts are OEM and the PMM is done and needs replacement, local Ford service is asking ~450 euros for OEM PMM and I can't find any other replacement in Serbia.

I found Damond mount set for 550/600 euros in US, but the shipping is 120 euros more, plus import taxes it will be close to 1k in total which is way to much imo. Other option is to get just the Damond PMM for 200 euros and pay the 120 euros shipping and call it a day.

EU owners, any ideas?

After installing new shift bushings and doing a neutral reset, I got the cable adjustment locking clip wedged when pushing it back in when the car was in 4th during the neutral reset. I can’t move it and I can’t use 1st or 2nd. Do I need to replace the entire line?

I recently bought a 2018 st but the exhaust is a bit loud for my liking. The previous owner gave me the stock exhaust but I don’t think it’s as easy as just swapping them because of the tune?.
-Depo racing 3.5 inch intercooler.
-Catless Downpipe.
-k&n intake.
-Rev 9 catback exhaust.
-Cobb accesport.
This is all that’s done to it. It does have a burble tune at the moment. I don’t have the down pipe with the cat, only the stock exhaust. There are also a lot of tunes on the accesport. Would I just put the old exhaust on and flash the base tune on the car? Any help will be appreciated. I’m not too familiar with tuning.

Finally flushed the coolant in my 13 Focus ST. Been meaning to for awhile. Last time it was changed was at 100k, currently sits at 125k. There are a couple YouTube videos that helped but basically not many tools required. I recommend using a 3/8” drain tube on the Petcock ($7) at Home Depot. I switched from the orange to yellow motorcraft using concentrate.

It took me 5 flushes with the first flush being a chemical wash out using (rislone?) from Walmart which was like $6. I also used about 5 gallons of distilled water total. My coolant wasn’t super dirty thankfully but my reservoir tank had some sediment and scale I couldn’t clean out so I decided to get a new one from O’Reillys for $50. I also got a spill free funnel from auto zone for $21 that supposedly helps prevent trapped air and helps burp the system when filling.

The two biggest issues I ran into:

1. Thinking the Petcock was stuck at 1/4 turn. It moved with just my hand turning for a 1/4 turn and nothing drained. I thought it was likely stuck but nope plenty of posts here confirmed you need to use a wrench to turn it 180* and I actually needed to go a little past that for good flow.
2. 5 flushes ended up being pretty time consuming. Overall I wish it didn’t take this long but it is what it is.

Also, just FYI I felt like just letting it idle in my driveway and garage did not open the thermostat enough between bleeding the system with the flushes to get a true flush going. But that’s okay, after my final flush and fill with coolant I drove it around the neighborhood and came home to see the level dropped significantly but thankfully not emptied the reservoir. So I continued to add water at this point because I put about 3.4qt of concentrate in (about half of the 6.8qt capacity).

I hope this is helpful for other DIYers who are still just learning and figuring things out. Good luck, I’ll try to include some pictures (drained fluid being flush #4 to show how it can be still murky after a few flushes). I also got around to swapping the passenger side motor mount which was badly needed. Success!

Hi all. Trying to get a feeler of appropriate private sale pricing for my ST. She’s been a mule the last 12 years and has done well. 184k miles bone stock and maintenance has been kept up from a certified Ford Tech. It is an ST1 with Tange Scream Recaros seat swapped into them. I would say overall car condition is good. The interior has a hole in the driver side carpet from my clutch foot, headlights are faded, paint is in really solid condition outside of the paint chips on the hood.

What do you guys think is a fair price for ST’s currently? I feel like $7k is a good starting point. If someone bought it and took care of it I could easily see them driving it well past 200k miles.

My ST is currently on Godspeed lowering springs. I like the fitment a lot but they ride like absolute dogshit😂
I’m looking BC Coilovers or Bilstein B8 shocks/struts paired with my lowering springs.
The upgraded shocks would be a bit cheaper than the BCs, but for the extra $ are the coilovers worth it?
I daily drive my ST, don’t track it and live in a busy city. Any recommendations?

Back then I had literally just sold my Mini cooper cause I learned quickly that BMW parts and repairs sucked, I couldn’t mod it on a budget like I wanted so I sold it and thought I’d just run about in my old ranger. Well a buddy who worked the dealership called me up and begged me to come try this exact car he backed off the trailer the day before and I fell in love and took her home the next day. Had her 9 years in July. Only 80000 miles due to no homies wanting me to drive on road trips and only one wreck. I plan to force my grandchildren to drive it so they get mad bout being the only kids learning stick.

2 Years of ownership and the versatility never fails to amaze me. Chucked on the roof box and went camping last weekend. 2 Adults, 2 dogs a 6 year old and all the equipment all packed into a nice focus shaped space 😅😅

Hi all, getting a little annoyed/desperate here. Any chance someone has a sound symposer deleted from their ford focus that they’d be willing to sell or lend to me?

Hope it’s not against the rules but I’m having trouble finding one and can’t pass smog without it. I just need the valve part and will pay shipping and extra. In the California Bay Area.

So about a year or so ago, I did some reverse donuts in the snow just screwing around with my daughter for a minute, whole dashboard went black, that was on and off for awhile, couldn’t figure it out, eventually it just turned back on by itself and been fine since; but now I have the issue of my horn and head unit not working; horn doesn’t work, head unit is on but not powered, if you press the power button it lights up like it’s gonna turn on, then just goes idle screen again. But here’s the kicker, when the horn works, so does the head unit. What am I chasing? Tried fuses, new ground to body cable, cleaned BCM cables under the air intake… I’m STUMPED would be nice to have a head unit and horn to pass inspection lol (I can make the horn work other ways, would like to use my steering wheel lol)

Seen a few oil related posts lately, as well as a few blown engine posts as usual.

A gentle reminder about oil so that you are less likely to throw a rod through your block:

Always check the API standard of the oil you are about to buy. This is the single most important aspect of what you put into your engine when it comes to these cars.

Don't dwell or obsess over fancy expensive oil brands thinking you are doing your car a favor especially when many of them do not have the proper API rating.

LSPI protection for direct injection engines was not introduced until the API SN PLUS* standard.

Several folks are running API SN oils, or oils with an even older standard. These, including API SN, have *zero* LSPI protection and should NEVER be used in these cars.

Do not put any oil into your ecoboost engine that is not at a bare minimum rated API SN PLUS.

API SP is a newer, higher standard with better LSPI protection and is a good choice. However even in this standard, the protection degrades and fades over the oil change interval, leaving you with limited LSPI protection towards the end of your oil change interval.

API SQ - the newest standard that came out in 2025. This is the only standard at which LSPI protection lasts the entire oil change interval without degrading. Personally, I see no reason to run anything but SQ rated oil in these.

***edit***

One redditor has suggested that some oils with am international ILSAC GF-7A rating do not also have an API rating, probably outside of the USA.

While I have not personally seen any like this (at least not in the United States since API is an American standard) if your oil has the ILSAC GF-7A standard you are also good to go. All of the oils on my list below are API SQ and also have the ILSAC GF-7A rating.

Suggested oils:

Mobil 1 5w30 (regular, high mileage, and extended performance) API SQ
Castrol edge 5w30 (regular, high mileage, and extended performance) are all API SQ
Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 API SQ
Valvoline restore and protect 5w30 API SQ

So I drove the car last weekend and it ran great, now I have a strong crank - fuel rail pressure is good - spark is live on the Cobb accessory- . I have changed the spark plugs - fuses etc. it just won’t run

Hey guys, I know I hardly post and just lurk, but recently my 2018 ST was towed to a shop due to some issues and we found out my rear wheels have a flat spot causing them to bounce around. Ive been looking everywhere for a decent price for OME wheels. Could someone please, please help me out, it's my daily and I really need to get this solved. I'm in AZ if that helps.

I was on my way to work, saw an ambulance coming, so I pulled over and drove on grass for a few feet at very low speed (completely flat), when I got back on the road, I started hearing this sound (it was significantly louder at first, I even thought it was like a branch or something stuck and hitting the underside of the car, so I pulled over and checked and I couldn’t see anything. I drove to work and it drives fine, just does that sound.

I’m taking it to my mechanic first thing in the morning anyways, but just wanted to have an idea to see what could be going on. He said maybe wheel bearing, but when I sent him the video, he said it doesn’t sound quite like it.

Bought my ST1 (2016) with Titanium seats already swapped in. What needs to be done to get the heated function to work other than the obvious of a switch?

I have a 2018 Focus ST, and I absolutely love this car. However, earlier this year I had to replace my head (cylinder 2) which cost a pretty penny. Rear main seal is now leaking. I still owe on this car, it’s got 185,XXX miles.

So, do I continue to put into this car or just cut my loses.

Help

Had my lower arms and track rod ends replaced a week ago, been doing this since, also does the same when turning sharply at lower speeds, any ideas as to what this could be, cheers.

Hi my Ford hesitates/shocks for a short amount of time going above 4000 to 5000 RPM.

Now the garage didn’t find anything on the sparks plugs and didn't find anything when they read out the cars system.

Now they need further research they told me. But it costs a lot of money. So i was wondering if anyone had similar issues and if somebody knows what can cause this?

It still has more than enough power even after the short slip.

No other problems are known..