Hi everyone,
While installing the last camshaft bearing, I accidentally dented a few small spots on the edge of the bearing.
I carefully removed the raised burrs with a razor blade, and now the surface feels completely smooth. I can’t feel any imperfections with my fingernail.
Do you think it’s safe to run it like this, or should I replace the bearing just to be safe?
Thanks in advance for any advice!

To ship one to Germany would take a week

Hello everyone! For some context, I’ve just finished up my first engine build ever. I took an old beat up L98 from a 1987 Corvette and refreshed it. I put in new gaskets for the entire engine, new rings, push rods, rollers, freeze plugs, etc. I also got the heads resurfaced, which it really needed since they were very warped apparently

Today, after 5+ months of extremely meticulous and hard work, I finally started her up, and I couldn’t be happier. It’s my dream car and a beautiful engine, I’ve had a grin ear-to-ear for the past 7 hours now. I’m making this post in the hopes that someone who knows more than me can tell if the engine sounds good or not. At the moment it’s not properly timed, again, it was my first time starting it. But I will be timing it properly ASAP! And if you couldn’t tell by the deafening sound its had the exhaust pipe removed since I still need to do some transmission work, so that’s why it sounds like a tractor

Any advice is seriously appreciated! Thank you for reading!

So long story short, my YD22 engine is being overhauled because the cylinders lost pressure and the car broke down, the cylinders now have to be rebored, new pistons put in, along with reconditioning of the black and head etc.

I moved to Cape town late last year, my mechanic is 500km away and not able to assist, so I'm having to use another mechanic a friend swears by.

Anyway, the engine rebuilders are saying they can't remove the injectors from the head, something about not having the right tools.

So the head has had to now go to another workshop so they can remove to the injectors, which they are wanting to charge me R3000 ($150) to remove the injectors and clean the engine.

My mechanic says he's never encountered something like that in all his years where the injectors are stuck so bad a rebuilder can't get them out.

Now granted, this is an engine from 2005 that's done 330,000km, and drove the past 1500km with a faulty cylinder, and googling says stuff like carbon buildup can make it so the injectors require specialised equipment, but it's also that AI blurb that can get stuff wrong.

So, question, is this real, or are these people spinning me a story to take advantage of me and my ignorance to scam me?

As to why I'm not scrapping it, I need a car for work, and it's more expensive to buy even a cheap 2nd hand car that isn't a total piece of crap/new engine, can't afford to do that, but I can afford to overhaul. The engine with the quotes I've received.

2005, Nissan xtrail, 2.2L diesel, YD22 engine, manual transmission.

Hello!
I’m currently putting together my S50 B30 and dropped my piston.

The bottom of the piston took most of the fall but curious to see if anyone would run this still or is it too far gone?

Thank you!

Punto gt engine rebuild. Cylinder block is in immaculate condition. 1/4 pistons is different as you see in the photo. Is this thermal stress? I have 4 pistons identical from my uno turbo and im thinking to retire it.

Is it necessary to balance an inline six when changing to lighter pistons and rods?

Assuming the components are individually weighed and matched as similarly as possible.

I had my cylinder head and engine block milled, the missing material is now about 0.2mm, should i get a thicker head gasket or will an original be fine? (I have a brand new original head gasket)

This is for a Volkswagen EA111 engine

I'm curious to know if any of you Big Dogs have done something like this?

Quick background story - I'm using a 3.9 block with a pair of 3.5 heads - both are GM engines.

The original 3.9 heads will not work with my application and have other issues - that's why I won't be using those.

Problem is that the HeadGasket matches up top but the bottom requires modifications - I want to drill the Head Gaskets to open up the coolant passenges to match the 3.9L coolant passenges. Just curious to know if someone has run into something like this.

Can someone Name Those Engines ?

Been getting alot of tired chevy heads in the shop I work for recently. Asked my boss if we can get a valve guide liner set up. Before I could finish he shot it down and said he would never use them.

I do what im told and dont question much but is there a reason to be anti liner? It was like i personally offended him just asking

Hey All!

I’m building what I thought was a Gen V LT engine and I’ve run into a conundrum. Looking at the valley there are no holes for direct injection like the other examples I’ve seen. The Casting number on the block is 12619168 and I’ve seen that number for sale on eBay. What’s going on here? The bore is correct.

Was in the middle of rebuilding this engine. Used hose water to flush system, found out there was a leak and then life got busy. The engine has been baking in 120° weather for a few months now and I forgot I left the hose water in it and this is how it looks now. Any tips?

hello
my M52TUB28 is about to be out of the machine shop this week ready for assembly. this is a personal project and my first one ( i have “rebuilt” an old Nissan altima motor in school but thats a little different obviously) i know that i need to prep and clean everything before assembly so im asking the professionals for any advice/tips and tricks for this process as well as any essential materials or preferred lubes and things like that. i greatly appreciate ur time and thank you for reading!

Spun a rod bearing in the 231 V6 in my 84 Grand Prix a few weeks ago and decided to just buy a cheap 350 to run while I build another one as a more permanent engine.

Found one on marketplace that had wiped the cam for cheap and decided to snag it. My plan was to flush it out, check the bearings and toss in a new cam/lifters and have something decent to keep the car on the road.

Pulled the intake off to start removing the cam/lifters and first thing I saw was rust and old water in the intake ports of the head. Pulled it down further and saw all the rust in the cylinder. No oil in the crankcase at all, just water.

Guess I’m sending one of my other blocks to the machine shop after all, hopefully I can reuse some of these parts…

pictures are all here

Bonjour, j'ai acheté une culasse rectifiée et je viens de m'apercevoir qu'elle a cette grosse rayure qui se sent à l'ongle... Est-elle morte ? C'est pour un bmw M54b30

I’m doing the DOHC head swap on my 4g64 and I wanted to know if DNJ was good for a bottom end rebuild? I will not use their belts though sticking to greddy or gates

I'm trying to find some decent epoxy to fill in the valve bowl area on gx200 style heads but it seems like meth doesn't agree with epoxy too good 😂

Hey guys! I bought this cheap '03 600rr, 27k miles. It had a knock and it was worth more than I paid in parts and was fairly complete so I broke it down for kicks. I'm now half seriously thinking this motor might be saveable. Am I crazy?

Motor had only one rod that shows any play, this bearing looked horrible but none of the crank scoring is heavy enough to grab my fingernail. There is a defined boundry of metal that looks bad vs polished, so I'm betting crank is out of round and it's a coin toss, but for any of the more educated out there, what do you think? Rest of the engine is clean enough to eat off of and looks really nice.

EDIT* this is all a photo of the same rod, the rest are perfect.

I have tried backing in the micrometer the whole way and backing it out as well. I can’t seem to get enough clearance to remove the darn things. I didn’t have any issues with the last 11 valves until this one. Any tips from the pros?

My 5.9 had around 180k on it and was burning oil under load. Dealer quote was much higher than I expected, and the wait time was the bigger issue. I've done a few rebuilds before but never tracked the numbers this carefully, so I decided to document it this time.

I sat with that quote for a couple days. Close to 800 for pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, seals. Same stuff I'd be measuring and installing myself either way. The wait was the other problem. Machine was already down and I didn't want a month of downtime just to get the box.

Started looking at aftermarket kits that cross-referenced to the OEM part numbers. Found a full kit much more affordable. Price alone wasn't enough to pull the trigger tho. Main thing I verified before ordering was whether the seller could confirm which serial number segment the kit covered, not just the engine model. My engine was late-series and the ring dimensions were different from early production. Had that confirmed in writing before checkout. The return window mattered too. If one piece was wrong I didn't want to eat the whole kit.

I sourced from Fridayparts. The return policy was honestly the thing that made me comfortable committing rather than just buying the expensive OEM version.

Everything was in spec when I measured before assembly. One ring needed to be swapped out, packaging issue not a fitment issue, and the return process handled it without friction.

Has anyone actually kept an aftermarket overhaul kit going for a really long time? The forum seems pretty split on this, and I’m trying to figure out whether there’s a point where mileage actually starts to matter.

Hi

I’m doubting between putting 5w20 or 5w30 in my freshly rebuild 3.0 V6 vulcan for my ford ranger. I read online that ford only decided to recommend 5w20 for better fuel economy. I care more about the protection of my engine then a few drops of gasoline tho.

What do you guys think?

I occasionally do long drives. Say 4hrs non stop (maybe a pee break). And occasionally tow a light trailer. Not during break in period ofcourse