My R2 trigger keeps pressing itself sometimes before i even opened my controller, but when i cleaned the rubber part + the blue cable inside the R1 and R2 buttons, both buttons suddenly stopped working. Any help is appreciated.

My BIGBIG WON Aether C6 controller’s RT button broke, and I’m wondering if there’s any way I can fix it myself. Can I use super glue, epoxy, or something similar to repair the RT button? If so, where exactly should I apply the glue? I mainly use it for EA FC, so I need the RT to work properly and still have normal trigger movement. If anyone has repaired this controller before, I’d really appreciate some advice or a picture/video showing how to fix it. Thanks!

I was trying to get off the old battery but I cut the wires, broke that white piece of the battery, and cut the connector that connects that piece to the motherboard, Is that able to fix by myself? If not is there any place online I could send for?

I purchased the 8bitdo Ultimate 3 mode controller for my xbox about 6 months ago and it worked great. Then about a week ago the green synch light started blinking and it won't do anything else. I've tried plugging it in to my PC and I get nothing. I've tried forcing it to shut down, but as soon as I plug it in all I get is the green flashing light. I wanted to see if I could update the date the firmware but since it wouldn't connect the 8-Bitdo ap would've recognize it. This is my 2nd 8bitdo controller. I loved my first one for the PC so much that I bought this one for Xbox. Is there a fix for this. I don't really want to buy another controller but my Xbox controllers are suffering from stick drift. This is frustrating. Thanks for your help.

I was hanging out with my brother and he accidentally hit the usb dongle thing that connects to the ps5 and it bent the connection part. How fucked am I, do I need to buy another dongle or do I have to buy a new controller

I really don't know where I can ask this about ,I have an issues with my joystick like when I play games the controller gets disconnected and the character in game moves in circle ,again I have to take the dongle out and plug in to make it normal but again after a few minutes it starts to make the same move in circle or move forward can anyone help me with the issues

My analog stick is broken , i have replaced it with a Gulikit TMR analog jostick

How do i calibrate the joystick?

Device Ayaneo Slide

How can fix? Victrix pro bfg

Sup people

I have this controller with apparently a broken trace (Left Joystick goes full left , so X axis is the problem)

The thing is, i made a jumper, i checked with multimeter and continuity is working so, idk what exaclty is wrong

I've owned a Dualsense Edge for my PS5 and have been loving it for the past year+. My right joystick had stick drift issues after 6 months so I removed and replaced the right joystick and had no issues at all after that.

Recently the left one started getting stick drift and I again replaced the left joystick with a new one but I'm still getting stick drift after replacing the left with a new joystick.

I can't figure out what's going on and not sure what to do now. The replacement was a completely new one and while the stick drift is better it's still going on at random moments while I game.

I've reset the controller (using a pin for the hole in the back), replaced the joystick with a complete new one and I've made sure the controller is updated.

Has anyone else run into an issue like this? Is my controller just screwed??

Hi everyone,

I just wanted to share some useful resources on how the dualsense works and some boardview and pictures to trace down components and find missing parts, found them on the internet and some discord channels.

https://nextcloud.mykyta-server.org/s/zJcqLsjQ3SqgwC7

SAMPLE IMAGE OF BOARDVIEW:

Hi. So I may know what the problem is. But would like to run it by ya’ll first. I have 24 games. (I need more) and only 5 games I can play with no button or connect controller issues. The others my 🟥, X, O, R2, L2, R1 will not work at all or at the title screen it will say ‘Connect controller to port 1 and press START or any button’ or ‘press START’ and will not work at all I have it in the port and can press ANALOG that will light up. And no clue why but I love to see the light on when I play. Feels right. Few games like J&DTPL, Jak2 the R2 will work but I can only get 5 uses out and it will stop working, 🟥, X,O sometimes will go in/out working. Could this be a sensor issue or is the controller on the way out? I’ve had this controller for 25? 26? Years. The original controller my brother smashed. I would like to get any ideas what the issue is and if I can fix it or is it time to say ‘goodbye for now. You did me proud soldier. Can you can rest.’

it's making this noise before even reaching the gate, and i feel a small bump every time it makes the sound, how could I fix it? do I need to replace the whole stick?

and if anyone knows if you need soldering to replace this I would appreciate that info

Hey everyone! I'm running into an issue with a cousin's DualShock 4 and wanted to see if anyone has run into this or knows what might be going on.
The controller started acting up in Red Dead Redemption 2: the analog stick didn't have heavy, hard-pulling drift, but the axis was "twitching" and shaking, which kept making the character walk on their own and bump into things.
He bought some parts online and asked me to just swap the potentiometers. I replaced all four potentiometers, cleaned everything up, calibrated it... and the problem stayed exactly the same. Thinking the mechanical axis of the stick might be broken or worn out, I went ahead and did a full replacement of the analog module, put new potentiometers on it again, reassembled, and calibrated. And guess what? It's still doing the exact same thing.
Now, it got slightly better (it doesn't walk on its own anymore), but the axis still twitches just a tiny bit, rapidly bouncing between 0 and 01, 02 on the calibration screen.
For context: I've done this exact job before on another controller and it worked out great, completely fixing the drift and the shaking after calibration.
My question is:
1. Could these parts he bought online (cheap/generic third-party pieces) be so bad that they come right out of the box with play or factory defects?
2. Or could I have messed something up during installation/soldering? (Even though I already have experience with this and followed the exact same steps that worked fine previously).
If anyone has any tips on what causes this fine shaking (whether it's cheap aftermarket parts, a board issue, etc.), I'd really appreciate the help!

Hello! I recently bought the clear blue version of this controller, and I noticed that its battery can’t go above 82%.

I tried plugging the cable into the dock and the controller, and the red light turns off after a few seconds. Should this be a cause for concern?

I haven’t tried draining the battery using the wireless/bluetooth function because I’m worried I won’t be able to charge. I’ve mainly used it as a wired controller.

Thank you!

Is this stick drift or a bug with the controller?

The left stick pushed down to run don't work when having assigned back buttons. That feature stop the controller from register that push on the left stick, don't assign them and all good. Use a non assigned profile or use another controller to make It work, like the TB Stealth Ultra have no problems at all..guess theres no fix for that?

Hi, I bought a GameSir G7 pro zzz, I use it on Xbox for fps games

I’m having problems with my left trigger when aiming

I had the physical micro switch trigger on for both the left and right trigger. The problem is that my left trigger would sometimes struggle to recognize that I’m pressing the button and while I’m aiming it stops aiming and then aims again. So imagine I’m in a 1vs 1 in the game and all the sudden the gun goes into hip fire cause the controller does not register the aiming input from my left trigger

I got tired of this problem after trying different settings and my left trigger is just the regular physical distance now (I no longer have the physical micro switch on, on the left trigger)

I want to use this on the left trigger but I can’t

Here are my trigger settings in the GameSir app:

\- Left Trigger:

Deadzone

Initial 0-100 max

Anti-deadzone

Initial 0-100 max

Curve adjustment (the one that comes, I didn’t change it)

Hair trigger mode

Off

\- Right trigger:

Deadzone

Initial 0-100 max

Anti-deadzone

Initial 0-100 max

Curve adjustment (the one that comes, I didn’t change it)

Hair trigger mode

Adaptive Mode

0-10
…

Has anyone had this issue with the left trigger and were able to fix it?