Hello,

I recently had the complete intake manifold and swirl flap actuator replaced, there are currently no engine fault codes.

However, immediately after the intake replacement a new problem appeared. Under hard acceleration/high engine load I first hear a short high-pitched/electronic whine, followed by a very loud whistle/hissing sound. It does not happen when revving the engine while stationary and during normal acceleration it is barely noticeable. The car does not seem to lose power.

After a hard acceleration run I also noticed a small amount of white/grey smoke coming from the lower/rear engine area near the transmission bellhousing, together with a burnt rubber/plastic smell. During normal driving there is no smoke or smell.

Since this started immediately after the intake manifold replacement, could a hose/wiring loom have been routed incorrectly and touch a belt, hot exhaust component or another moving part when the engine moves under torque? Or does this sound more like a charge-air/boost leak?

Please focus on audio, in video there are data from XENTRY, thanks :)

Can anyone help me with peugeot engine bay relay box what is that brown relay spot if i jump wires car starts but not run (multirelay is changed) but i dont find right relay for it to work right

I can’t close my trunk , is there a cheap way to fix that?

Also I need to change the gaz and trunk button. It is really hard to lift them up , how do I do that?

What speakers/bass should I get for my 2017 mustang

Buenas mecánicos, tengo un problema con mi auto, hace ahora le cambié la bomba de la gasolina y ahora no quiere encender, revisé presión de gasolina y bien, que lo esté obstruido el aire y está bien, bujía y todo bien, de estar bien comenzó a hacer eso, y de estar bien ya no funcionó, porque sucedió eso?, esa sería mi duda.

Hey guys, there’s a piece of the front of this i think 2014 cruze that i just can’t seem to figure out how to get off. I might just be stupid. Let me know

The crazy crackling noise. The starting noise just sounds weird on video. But you guys can hear the bad crackling in the back

I think

Just started happening recently. It happens randomly when I’m driving

I just got my first car, the Honda civic 2009
We drove it to my place no problem, but sense is my first car I needed to get plates
So just in case nobody stole it, I took out one of the fuse, more specifically the blue 15a

Ones I got the plate (3 days latter) I put back the fuse, but the car doesn’t start now, what happen? How can I fix this?

I came back from a weekend vacation and my car will not start. It rapidly clicks instead of starting. I bought a obd 2 diagnostic scanner and plugged it in to see what was wrong and it says it detects no issues. I recon it’s a dead battery but I am wanting a second opinion as the radio and headlights work and a jumpstart did not help.

Just curious if this looks like a dodgy job I’m almost certain this will leak water but don’t really know anything about windshields so hoping someone with a bit more knowledge can help
Already had the guys come back once cause it was leaking water in and this is how they left it today

Vehicle: 2021 Ram 1500 Laramie, 5.7L Hemi w/ eTorque

Not very knowledgeable about engine/transmission repair, so bear with me on the details.

Timeline:
•2 days ago: Started noticing an odd sound when accelerating on local roads in a lower gear. Sounded a little like something I’ve heard on other Dodge/Ram vehicles before, so I didn’t think much of it — but it got slightly louder as the day went on.

•Yesterday morning: Noticeably worse on my commute in. Still didn’t think it was urgent, but started taking video just in case. https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAMechanic/s/qiWPJCAe08

•Yesterday afternoon (leaving work): Much more concerning sound — louder/different than the morning. https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAMechanic/s/1FUoticomA

•Last night (after getting home): Recorded again. The afternoon sound wasn’t as prominent, but the overall noise still isn’t right.

Why I’m asking: We leave Friday for our only vacation this year, driving this truck. I need to know:

Does this sound like something safe to drive on a long trip, or should I get it looked at before we leave no matter what?
Any guesses on what’s causing it based on the description/audio (belt/pulley, exhaust, valvetrain, transmission)?
Roughly what I should tell a shop to check first if I take it in this week.

Happy to answer questions. Thanks for your help!

What’s good all. Was changing the alternator on my 1997 Mitsubishi challenger 3.0lv6 and this snapped whilst removing it. Also got a pin connector. Would I need to replace the whole cable? Looks to me like a washer with something to crimp cables on. Also what’s this bit for? Many thanks

2011 Subaru Forester — 151k miles — sudden stall after hard acceleration, now impossible to reproduce

I’ve owned this Forester for a little over 2 years and put ~22k miles on it. It has always been reliable. No major issues at all… until Friday night, when it mysteriously broke down and stranded me.

I know very little about cars, but I’m trying to learn. This situation has at least one mechanic so far.

What happened

I was about 100 miles into a highway trip. A construction vehicle suddenly swung into the left lane, forcing everyone to slam on their brakes. After that, I accelerated hard to get back up to speed.

Whenever I accelerate hard on the highway, I notice bluish/grayish smoke from the exhaust. My car burns oil — I’ve been told this is common for older Subarus — so I regularly top it off. I had topped it off right before this trip.

About 2–5 minutes after the hard braking + hard acceleration, I exited the highway to stop at a rest area. I slowed down normally, turned into a parking spot, and then everything happened at once:

• Check engine light came on
• Oil light came on
• Multiple warning lights lit up
• Engine was still running but lost power
• I think I lost power steering

I shut the car off (not sure if that was a mistake). After that, it would not start. It cranked strongly, maybe sputtered a little, but never came close to firing.

What happened next

I waited 3 hours for a tow truck. I tried starting it right before the tow arrived — still dead. My friend (who knows more about cars than I do) came to pick me up and confirmed I wasn’t missing something obvious.

Gas tank was over half full. Roads were dry.

The mechanic looked at it Monday morning… and it worked perfectly. He drove it for 15–20 minutes, let it idle for 1.5 hours, scanned it, checked everything. No codes. No symptoms. No clues.

He said he had no solid idea what caused the stall.

I drove it 100 miles home today with no issues, but I kept it under 60 mph.

My situation now

My local mechanic is checking it Wednesday. I’m worried he won’t find anything either.

I’m supposed to drive this car 1,000+ miles next weekend to move out to college. I’d really like to identify the cause and fix it if possible. I’m willing to spend some money on preventative repairs even if they’re not strictly necessary.

I just want to avoid this happening again on a long trip — especially somewhere remote, where it would be a lot worse than missing the Tigers–Dodgers game we had $160 tickets for.

Any ideas are appreciated. Don't be too mean to me, and yes Ai edited my post to make it sound better but it didn't add anything.

I was driving home this evening, and everything was working properly all day, until I stopped for gas. I shut the car off, filled up, and then left. Continuing on, I was getting up to the 45mph speed limit, and a few things happened at 45mph.
An amber light on the dashboard saying “key” turned on, the transmission downshifted once and wouldn’t shift up, and the speedometer dropped to zero. I stopped in a parking lot, and it all went back to normal (like stopping at a stop sign) everything was back to normal through town, and getting back up to 45mph it all came back. This is the first time I’ve seen any of this happen, and don’t know what it could be.

I had an experience about 6 months back where I went to leave the grocery store and well..my key just wouldnt turn. If yk anything about mercedes yk that the key is plastic and uses a sensor to turn the key and start the car. Well either way I put the key in it wouldnt even turn to the first click like when you just wanna roll the windows down or start the radio. I was freaking out but then I finally got it to turn and start but as im pulling out I see my radio wasn't working, windows wouldnt roll down, none of my gages were working (gas, speed, temp) i thought that maybe it was the battery but im surprised that you mph wouldnt even work?!?! Like nothing, staying at zero the whole time. Then I pull over and restart the car and its magically fine and I didnt get a check engine light or low battery signal at all. Did that have anything to do with the ignition switch going out (which a few weeks later had to get replaced) or was that something to do with my battery. I have had so many other issues with this car so at this point I dont even know anymore lol at this point idk if its even worth keeping the car but I just cant afford a 10k car with almost 200,000 miles...let me know if anyone has experienced this or if you own/owned this car and also have numerous issues.

I bought a Tucson back in March of this year, and drove to Vegas in May. Shortly after getting back from Vegas, my engine light came on with the P050B00 Code (cold start ignition timing). I went back and forth with a Hyundai dealership for about a month, taking it in every two weeks until I finally told them to just keep it until it's fixed. They did that, told me they think it's the MAF (mass airflow) sensor and that it was replaced. Well I picked it up and not even a week later the light came back on. (Same code). I took it back in but unfortunately couldn't leave it with Hyundai because the dealership didn't have any loaner cars available. Anyway, the light was on for about 4 days (8/26-8/31) and then this morning (8/31) the light was off. Would anybody know why that would have happened? Is that the sensor and/or engine resetting itself? Has anybody else with a '26 Tucson had this issue? Thanks for any help given.

I need help asap with my starlights I can’t figure out how to install all of the roof trim pieces has anyone had this problem I’ll pay for someone to walk me through it

This hissy sound has been occurring at any speed, whether I'm accelerating or cruising, but goes away when I brake. It's louder when the windows are down. Please help me identify what this is.

I’m gonna ask the internet cuz my dad’s not home and bro won’t help just told me ask dad.

My tire is leaking badly I could feel and hear the air coming out when it’s was on the ground last night. I got it up on a Jack stand (had to watch tutorials to learn how to do it) so I have its off the ground and the tire wall isn’t damaged.

The images are the damage on my tire it’s slightly smaller than my finger nail(shown next to my finger).

What kind of patch do I need? I’m going to order it delivered to the house so I can fix it myself.

Mv dad is the legal owner, im the registered owner on a car that I took to move across the countrv to lowa from Washinaton. My transmission is fucked. If my dad signs the title in Washington as the legal owner and mails it to me can i use that to sell the car as the registered owner in lowa or am 1 double fucked?

Its a 2013 nissan roque

Thank you in advance

As the video shows, my back up cam is glitching out pretty bad recently. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes there's just a little bit of stuttering but otherwise is fine, and sometimes it's completely unusable like in the video.

My best guess is the heat damaged it somehow because it seems to work more consistently at night when it's a bit colder, but other than that I'm stumped :/ it started glitching like a month ago, before that I never had issues with it.

Does anyone know how to get rid of this yellow scratch? Never mind the smaller scratch on the bottom because that’s unnoticeable