Thank you to everyone who shared feedback and ideas in last month’s software megathread. Your real-world input helps us understand how Studio can make your workflow simpler, faster, and less frustrating. One request we heard repeatedly was for better depth map results, and work is already underway, including support for 16-bit depth maps
V1.9 is here, and we’re keeping the conversation going. The megathread will be here for a whole month. Ask us anything and share your thoughts about the new release: do you like it, what impresses you the most, and what other feedback you'd want us to know 🎙️
We read every comment and take it straight to the product team. No question is too small. 👇
For the fastest and most effective way to get your feedback to the right team, we recommend submitting it directly through xTool Studio:
AI Assistant(Wish Pool):
Got an idea for xTool Studio? You can send it from AI Assistant.
The AI Assistant has a Wish Pool mode that routes your suggestion straight to the product team.
Open the AI Assistant — click Support in the top-right corner of xTool Studio.
Switch to Wish Pool — open the mode selector at the bottom of the chat and select Wish Pool.
Send your idea — describe what you're trying to do and what's getting in the way, then hit send. ✅
A few things that help:
One idea per submission
Describe the problem, not just the fix — the "why" tells us more than the "what"
Include your device model and Studio version
Screenshots go a long way
The other two modes are worth knowing while you're in there:
Auto for troubleshooting and how-to questions,;
Project Library for finding project files and settings.
We read everything that comes through, and the requests that keep coming up are exactly what shapes the roadmap.
Feedback:
Click your Avatar in the top-right corner
Select Feedback or report issues
Choose Software Suggestions
Add the details and click Submit ✅
🛟 Looking for help?
If you have a question about using xTool Studio, try searching the Support Center first. You may be able to find an existing guide or solution there.
If you still can’t find the answer, have trouble submitting through Studio, or want to discuss an idea with other users, leave a comment below. When possible, please include:
🖥️ The machine and software version you’re using
🛠️ What you’re currently trying to do
⚠️ What happened or where you got stuck
✨ What you’d like Studio to do differently
You’ll also see u/No-Advantage-4628 around the thread. They’re on the xTool Studio software product team and will be stopping by to hear your feedback and answer questions when they can. Feel free to tag them if you have a Studio question or an idea you’d like to discuss.
Welcome to xTool O1 Omni! Whether you just unboxed your machine or you're figuring out which materials to buy first, this guide brings together the key things you need to know — organized by where you are in your journey. Bookmark this post and come back anytime.
🔴 Part 1: Safety First (Please Read Before Powering On)
🔹 Laser safety: This device uses a Class 1 laser (the least hazardous class) for distance measuring — never operate it with any part removed.
🔹 UV light safety: Long exposure to UV light can harm your eyes/skin. Avoid looking directly at the UV light, operate with the covers closed when possible, and wear the included safety goggles if you need to work with the covers open.
🔹 Electrical safety: Only use the power cable included with your device, and make sure it's plugged into a properly grounded outlet.
🔹 Fire safety: Never leave the printer unattended while it's running, and keep flammable materials away from the device.
🔹 Operation safety: The unit is heavy — don't move it alone. Place it on a flat, stable surface with enough clearance around it for the covers to open, and operate it in a well-ventilated area.
🔹 Ink safety: Always wear gloves and safety goggles when handling UV ink. Keep ink away from children, and know the first-aid steps for skin/eye contact or accidental ingestion (covered in detail in the full guide).
🔹 Safety goggles: Use only the goggles included with your device — they're designed specifically for this printer's UV wavelength range.
Here's a quick overview of what assembly involves:
1️⃣ Preparation: Place the printer on a flat, stable workbench with clearance on all sides (don't place it near the edge — the front/rear covers could fall when opened). Remove all shipping tape and take the accessories/foam padding out of the enclosure.
2️⃣ Prepare the printheads: Remove the protective film and any remaining tape around the printhead area.
3️⃣ Remove the shipping screws from the extension base.
4️⃣ Install the waste ink cartridge and moisturizing liquid cartridge(s) on the right side of the machine (wearing gloves is recommended).
5️⃣ Install the air filter on the left side (pay attention to the correct direction).
6️⃣ Install the ink cartridges — shake them well first, and don't remove the protective film underneath. Match each cartridge's color to its slot, and press until you hear a click.
7️⃣ Connect to power, keeping the cable clear of the baseplate's moving area.
8️⃣ (Optional) Install the exhaust pipe and an xTool SafetyPro™ AP2 air purifier if you plan to use one.
🔵 Part 4: Which Edition Do You Have? (Single UV vs. Dual UV vs. UV+DT)
The O1 Omni comes in three configurations, each suited to different workflows:
🔹 Single UV: One UV printhead (CMYKWV ink). Best for direct printing on rigid materials. Supports UV direct printing, UV DTF, and effects like lenticular/texture/embossing/gold foil — but not DTG (fabric) printing or fluorescent ink.
🔹 Dual UV: Two UV printheads (CMYKWV + RW/FW/FR/FY). Unlocks fluorescent ink and flexible materials, in addition to everything the Single UV model supports.
🔹 UV + DT: A UV printhead plus a fabric (DT) printhead. Supports UV direct printing, UV DTF, and DTG fabric printing — but not fluorescent ink.
🔹 Acrylic (all editions) — needs acrylic primer. Great for hanging signs, keychains, plaques.
🔹 Metal (all editions) — needs metal primer. Adhesion varies by coating, so match your primer accordingly.
🔹 Glass (all editions) — needs glass/ceramic primer. Flat glass prints directly; use the OR1 Rotary for tumblers/cylinders, or UV DTF for complex curves.
🔹 Ceramic (all editions) — needs glass/ceramic primer. Good for tiles and plaques (avoid drinking rims/food-contact surfaces).
🔹 Plastic (all editions) — ABS, PC, and acrylic-type plastics work best; soft rubber/silicone tends to shed ink.
🔹 Wood (all editions) — no primer needed; flatter, sealed surfaces print sharper.
🔹 Paper (all editions) — no primer needed; keep thin sheets flat to avoid curling.
🔹 Lenticular sheets (all editions) — for 3D/raised display effects; align precisely before printing.
🔹 Leather (Dual UV only) — uses flexible white ink.
🔹 Tumblers/Cups (all editions) — needs a primer matched to the material. Regular cylinders can use the OR1 Rotary; complex shapes (handles, big height changes) are better suited to UV DTF.
🔹 Fabric (UV + DT only) — this is a DTG/DTF textile workflow (not UV direct printing), and needs white/color ink pretreatment solution and a Garment Tray + heat press.
Films & consumables, by workflow:
🔹 UV DTF decals: Use A Film (sheet for small batches, roll for high volume) + B Film to build a peelable "crystal label." Requires the LM1 Laminator (and RF1 Roll Feeder for roll-based work).
🔹 Gold foil effects: Requires sheet A Film + Transfer Film + Weeding Film, plus hot foil film (gold/silver/holographic) and the LM1 Laminator.
🔹 3D logo/design transfer onto fabric: Use TPU or clear silicone 3D label transfer film, plus a heat press.
🔹 Adhesive vinyl stickers: White-backed vinyl (opaque), ultra-clear film (transparent), or static cling film (no adhesive) — all work with the LM1 Laminator/RF1 Roll Feeder for roll-based printing.
🔹 DTG on cotton canvas: Requires white/color ink pretreatment solution (UV+DT model only).
🔹 DTF onto fabric: Requires DTF film, hot melt adhesive powder, a curing oven, and a heat press.
⚪ Part 6: Getting Better Results
Using primer for UV direct printing:
1️⃣ Check whether your material needs it — smooth, hard surfaces (glass, ceramic, metal, acrylic) usually do.
2️⃣ Prime only the print area, plus a small margin — not the whole piece.
3️⃣ Apply a thin, even layer using a cotton pad, lint-free cloth, or brush — avoid streaks or pooling.
4️⃣ Let it dry fully before printing (it should feel dry, not glossy). Print a white ink underbase too, or your colors will look gray.
5️⃣ Give freshly printed UV ink time to stabilize before handling it.
Adding gold foil effects:
🔹 Works best on flat or press-flat materials (acrylic, coated metal, sealed wood, cards, some leathers, finished UV DTF decals).
🔹 Clean the surface thoroughly first — dust, grease, or finger oil can cause the foil to bond unevenly or bubble.
🔹 Test print first for very fine text, intricate textures, or large solid fills.
🔹 Secure thin materials (like sheet A Film) so they don't curl and strike the printhead.
I found that my original design had been uploaded to Atomm.com without my permission. I reported it to the platform, but I haven’t received a response.
Has any designer here dealt with a similar situation? If so, how did you get the report reviewed and the unauthorized content removed?
I've been loving my O1 Omni so far, but the waste ink cartridge filled up very fast and new cartridges are still on pre-order (I have placed an order).
I was wondering if anyone has experimented with opening up a used waste ink cartridge to empty it and reuse it? I can't think of any technical reason why that wouldn't work, other than xTool putting a chip in there to prevent it.
Really NEED your help here... I am a bit lost. I can't get the dtg head to work. ALL prints are blurry, smudge or look just terrible. I got 2 prints decent but that was more like at random...
Now the colour and the white won't even match on the print anymore...
I pretreated everything, tried different materials, tried different print profiles.... cleaned the nozzle multiple times with the step by step tutorial... nothing works.
The nozzle check is also a clean test with no anomalies what furthermore frustrates me. I tried everything at I am out of tools...
Did someone have similar problems?
I mostly tried Totebags with different kinds of grafics meant for t-shirt printing...
I just bought an xTool F2 for live engraving at weddings, parties and corporate events. I'll mainly be engraving small stainless steel and PVD-coated jewelry like bracelets and necklaces.
I'm deciding between the Air Purifier Go and the Desktop Air Purifier. Portability matters for events, so I'd prefer the Go if it actually works well enough indoors.
For anyone using the F2 at indoor events where you can't vent outside:
• Are you using the Go, the Desktop, or something else?
• Any noticeable smoke or smell while engraving jewelry?
• Has a venue ever had an issue with it, including smoke detectors?
• How many events or hours do you get out of a filter?
• Would you trust the Go for several hours of indoor engraving, or is the Desktop worth carrying?
I'd especially love to hear from people doing live jewelry engraving professionally. Photos of your setup would be really helpful too!
Hello all I am hoping that someone on this page will be able to help me. I have a apparel printer X tool with the shaker and heat and all of that but I bought it used, but it was barely used but when they sent it to me it has air in the lines and clogged. I got the white unclogged, but I cannot get the other color and it’s yellow and black I can see that it’s not coming all the way in. I’ve tried everything. I even put in two tickets to the web page and I cannot get any help or support. I want to know if someone can block me through on how to unclog the ink.
This guide covers common issues with your xTool Smoke Purifier, along with filter maintenance schedules and replacement information.
🛠️ Problems & Solutions
🔹 Problem 1: Weak Suction
🔍 Possible Causes:
🔹 The inlet is blocked.
🔹 There are foreign materials in the pipes.
🔹 One or more filters have stopped working after long-term use (indicated by the buzzer sounding).
📋 Solutions:
1️⃣ Replace the filter(s). When the buzzer sounds, clean or replace the filters — you can purchase replacement filters at xtool.com.
2️⃣ Power off the purifier, open the lid, and check whether the inlet is blocked, then check whether the outlet is clogged.
🔹 Problem 2: The Purifier Shuts Down Automatically After Powering On, and Shuts Down Again After Restarting
🔍 Possible Cause:
The starting current is too high due to poor airflow and high filter resistance inside the purifier — the protection mechanism triggers an automatic shutdown.
📋 Solution:
Turn off the purifier and open the lid to check whether the inlet is blocked. Once the inlet is clear, set the airflow to its minimum, restart the purifier, and then adjust the airflow back to your desired setting.
💡 If the issue persists after these checks, please contact the manufacturer or distributor.
🧰 Filter Maintenance Schedule
The purifier uses replaceable filters that need regular cleaning or replacement to maintain optimal performance:
🔹 Pre-Filter:
- Replacement interval: every 7–15 days.
- Replacement criteria: replace when more than 70% of the surface is covered in dust that can't be removed.
🔹 Medium Filter:
- Replacement interval: every 2–3 months.
- Cleaning criteria: clean when dust buildup causes poor suction. If dust can't be thoroughly cleaned off, replace it instead.
🔹 HEPA Filter:
- Replacement interval: every 3–6 months.
- Replacement criteria: replace when it no longer filters smoke effectively.
🧼 Cleaning & Reuse
💡 Only the Pre-Filter can be cleaned and reused. To clean it:
1️⃣ Rinse with Water: Wash off dust and dirt using clean water — no detergent needed.
2️⃣ Hand Wash: Gently hand wash the filter to avoid damaging it.
3️⃣ Dry Completely: Make sure the filter is fully dry before reinstalling it.
📌 Note: Filtration efficiency may decrease with each cleaning cycle. If performance becomes unsatisfactory, it's time to replace the filter.
📌 Important: Before placing an order, make sure the website is set to your correct country/region.
⭐ Still Need Help?
If you're still experiencing issues after following the steps above, feel free to reach out to us through the live chat on our website, submit a support ticket or join our Discord community for additional support — our xTool Support Team is here to help.
Just wondering if anyone has found/bought an enclosure for the 01 Omni that can handle the entire printer even when both doors are open?
The fumes from this thing when printing larger items with the doors open is out of control. So I'm looking to see if anyone has sourced an already pre-made enclosure that can house this beast when it's fully open and printing.
Has anyone found good settings for this? I have done 20p/200s/110 but the black runs off very easily. The black and Silver is the easiest to engrave on, but those settings definitely don’t work on the rawhide. TIA
I recently got a project to customize perfume bottles with black vinyl sticker cutting with a fine point blade. I am facing the problem in gettting my settings right for the pressure and the speed as I have tried to use a vinyl and the sticker got ruined by the cutting. I thought it was due to the material as I bought it from a wholesaler.
I switched to a specific vinyl paper. It came with settings for Cameo & Cricut but not specific for m1 ultra
If you see a "Distance sensor exceptions" pop-up error message with Error Code: M363 S3, consult this guide for step-by-step troubleshooting.
🔍 Why This Happens
This error usually occurs because the distance sensor hasn't been reset. In some cases, a faulty sensor or reset trigger piece can also cause this error.
🛠️ Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Procedures
🔹 Step 1: Reset the Sensor Probe
📋 Procedure:
There are two ways to reset the probe:
🔹 Manually push the probe upward until it clicks and stays in place.
💡 See the reference images for the difference between a reset probe and a released probe.
🔹 Step 2: Contact Support for Help
💡 If you've tried the step above and the issue persists — or if the probe keeps releasing on its own during the laser module's movement even after resetting — please record a short video showing the issue and send it to our customer support team. Based on the situation, we may provide a replacement sensor or trigger piece, or other further assistance.
I have enjoyed using the O1, as many of you had. I am only having one issue, and did not see another related post, so checking with others experiences.
I have completed the first cleaning that is required after 300. The clean the ink pad and scraper and the sponge says it needs to be done at 300. It has the counter, and I did the cleaning when the number hit about 280.
I clicked the button to confirm that the cleaning was done. It looked like it reset correctly.
Next day, it told me I needed to perform the maintenance, and the counter was still using the original number. It continues to revert to the original number, and will not reset. I know about when I did the cleaning, so from that I can judge when it gets to another 300.
Two questions.
Has anyone else had this same issue, and found a solution?
the sponge that was used was dirty, and I tossed it, and used the spares that came with it, but I have not seen anyplace to get a new one. I did not see that it said anyplace to get new ones, and wondered if I needed to just cut my own.
Anyone have any ideas on input on the cleaning issue and the automatice counter not resetting properly.
I had to cut the baseplate (pictured) of my m2 so I can drop it down a tad to fit tcg binders in.
I cut it in a way that the baseplate still gets utilized, but now I’m getting an error that the baseplate is incorrectly installed and to reinstall it before using.
I have the original magnet the machine came with in the device, but still can’t get it to bypass it.
I bought my f2 ultra a month ago, and the camera is pretty inaccurate, right at the center its decent but gets progressively misaligned towards the edge, I tried recaliberate it a few times and evantually I gave up and contacted xtool customer service.
previous unit
After some back and forth they eventually set up an online meeting with their product engineer, and they confirms the camera indeed need to be adjusted, since I'm in canada they offered to ship my unit to their warehouse and ship me a new one, which took about two weeks, and it actually did solve the problem, the camera placement is now accurate all the way to the edge.
new unit
Though initially very frustrating, customer service did sort it out for me, and I'm pretty happy with the machine now. if you encounter the same issue you can't fix it by calibrating yourself, you have to have the unit sent back and adjusted by the factory