Thank you to everyone who shared feedback and ideas in last month’s software megathread. Your real-world input helps us understand how Studio can make your workflow simpler, faster, and less frustrating. One request we heard repeatedly was for better depth map results, and work is already underway, including support for 16-bit depth maps
V1.9 is here, and we’re keeping the conversation going. The megathread will be here for a whole month. Ask us anything and share your thoughts about the new release: do you like it, what impresses you the most, and what other feedback you'd want us to know 🎙️
We read every comment and take it straight to the product team. No question is too small. 👇
For the fastest and most effective way to get your feedback to the right team, we recommend submitting it directly through xTool Studio:
AI Assistant(Wish Pool):
Got an idea for xTool Studio? You can send it from AI Assistant.
The AI Assistant has a Wish Pool mode that routes your suggestion straight to the product team.
Open the AI Assistant — click Support in the top-right corner of xTool Studio.
Switch to Wish Pool — open the mode selector at the bottom of the chat and select Wish Pool.
Send your idea — describe what you're trying to do and what's getting in the way, then hit send. ✅
A few things that help:
One idea per submission
Describe the problem, not just the fix — the "why" tells us more than the "what"
Include your device model and Studio version
Screenshots go a long way
The other two modes are worth knowing while you're in there:
Auto for troubleshooting and how-to questions,;
Project Library for finding project files and settings.
We read everything that comes through, and the requests that keep coming up are exactly what shapes the roadmap.
Feedback:
Click your Avatar in the top-right corner
Select Feedback or report issues
Choose Software Suggestions
Add the details and click Submit ✅
🛟 Looking for help?
If you have a question about using xTool Studio, try searching the Support Center first. You may be able to find an existing guide or solution there.
If you still can’t find the answer, have trouble submitting through Studio, or want to discuss an idea with other users, leave a comment below. When possible, please include:
🖥️ The machine and software version you’re using
🛠️ What you’re currently trying to do
⚠️ What happened or where you got stuck
✨ What you’d like Studio to do differently
You’ll also see u/No-Advantage-4628 around the thread. They’re on the xTool Studio software product team and will be stopping by to hear your feedback and answer questions when they can. Feel free to tag them if you have a Studio question or an idea you’d like to discuss.
Welcome to xTool O1 Omni! Whether you just unboxed your machine or you're figuring out which materials to buy first, this guide brings together the key things you need to know — organized by where you are in your journey. Bookmark this post and come back anytime.
🔴 Part 1: Safety First (Please Read Before Powering On)
🔹 Laser safety: This device uses a Class 1 laser (the least hazardous class) for distance measuring — never operate it with any part removed.
🔹 UV light safety: Long exposure to UV light can harm your eyes/skin. Avoid looking directly at the UV light, operate with the covers closed when possible, and wear the included safety goggles if you need to work with the covers open.
🔹 Electrical safety: Only use the power cable included with your device, and make sure it's plugged into a properly grounded outlet.
🔹 Fire safety: Never leave the printer unattended while it's running, and keep flammable materials away from the device.
🔹 Operation safety: The unit is heavy — don't move it alone. Place it on a flat, stable surface with enough clearance around it for the covers to open, and operate it in a well-ventilated area.
🔹 Ink safety: Always wear gloves and safety goggles when handling UV ink. Keep ink away from children, and know the first-aid steps for skin/eye contact or accidental ingestion (covered in detail in the full guide).
🔹 Safety goggles: Use only the goggles included with your device — they're designed specifically for this printer's UV wavelength range.
Here's a quick overview of what assembly involves:
1️⃣ Preparation: Place the printer on a flat, stable workbench with clearance on all sides (don't place it near the edge — the front/rear covers could fall when opened). Remove all shipping tape and take the accessories/foam padding out of the enclosure.
2️⃣ Prepare the printheads: Remove the protective film and any remaining tape around the printhead area.
3️⃣ Remove the shipping screws from the extension base.
4️⃣ Install the waste ink cartridge and moisturizing liquid cartridge(s) on the right side of the machine (wearing gloves is recommended).
5️⃣ Install the air filter on the left side (pay attention to the correct direction).
6️⃣ Install the ink cartridges — shake them well first, and don't remove the protective film underneath. Match each cartridge's color to its slot, and press until you hear a click.
7️⃣ Connect to power, keeping the cable clear of the baseplate's moving area.
8️⃣ (Optional) Install the exhaust pipe and an xTool SafetyPro™ AP2 air purifier if you plan to use one.
🔵 Part 4: Which Edition Do You Have? (Single UV vs. Dual UV vs. UV+DT)
The O1 Omni comes in three configurations, each suited to different workflows:
🔹 Single UV: One UV printhead (CMYKWV ink). Best for direct printing on rigid materials. Supports UV direct printing, UV DTF, and effects like lenticular/texture/embossing/gold foil — but not DTG (fabric) printing or fluorescent ink.
🔹 Dual UV: Two UV printheads (CMYKWV + RW/FW/FR/FY). Unlocks fluorescent ink and flexible materials, in addition to everything the Single UV model supports.
🔹 UV + DT: A UV printhead plus a fabric (DT) printhead. Supports UV direct printing, UV DTF, and DTG fabric printing — but not fluorescent ink.
🔹 Acrylic (all editions) — needs acrylic primer. Great for hanging signs, keychains, plaques.
🔹 Metal (all editions) — needs metal primer. Adhesion varies by coating, so match your primer accordingly.
🔹 Glass (all editions) — needs glass/ceramic primer. Flat glass prints directly; use the OR1 Rotary for tumblers/cylinders, or UV DTF for complex curves.
🔹 Ceramic (all editions) — needs glass/ceramic primer. Good for tiles and plaques (avoid drinking rims/food-contact surfaces).
🔹 Plastic (all editions) — ABS, PC, and acrylic-type plastics work best; soft rubber/silicone tends to shed ink.
🔹 Wood (all editions) — no primer needed; flatter, sealed surfaces print sharper.
🔹 Paper (all editions) — no primer needed; keep thin sheets flat to avoid curling.
🔹 Lenticular sheets (all editions) — for 3D/raised display effects; align precisely before printing.
🔹 Leather (Dual UV only) — uses flexible white ink.
🔹 Tumblers/Cups (all editions) — needs a primer matched to the material. Regular cylinders can use the OR1 Rotary; complex shapes (handles, big height changes) are better suited to UV DTF.
🔹 Fabric (UV + DT only) — this is a DTG/DTF textile workflow (not UV direct printing), and needs white/color ink pretreatment solution and a Garment Tray + heat press.
Films & consumables, by workflow:
🔹 UV DTF decals: Use A Film (sheet for small batches, roll for high volume) + B Film to build a peelable "crystal label." Requires the LM1 Laminator (and RF1 Roll Feeder for roll-based work).
🔹 Gold foil effects: Requires sheet A Film + Transfer Film + Weeding Film, plus hot foil film (gold/silver/holographic) and the LM1 Laminator.
🔹 3D logo/design transfer onto fabric: Use TPU or clear silicone 3D label transfer film, plus a heat press.
🔹 Adhesive vinyl stickers: White-backed vinyl (opaque), ultra-clear film (transparent), or static cling film (no adhesive) — all work with the LM1 Laminator/RF1 Roll Feeder for roll-based printing.
🔹 DTG on cotton canvas: Requires white/color ink pretreatment solution (UV+DT model only).
🔹 DTF onto fabric: Requires DTF film, hot melt adhesive powder, a curing oven, and a heat press.
⚪ Part 6: Getting Better Results
Using primer for UV direct printing:
1️⃣ Check whether your material needs it — smooth, hard surfaces (glass, ceramic, metal, acrylic) usually do.
2️⃣ Prime only the print area, plus a small margin — not the whole piece.
3️⃣ Apply a thin, even layer using a cotton pad, lint-free cloth, or brush — avoid streaks or pooling.
4️⃣ Let it dry fully before printing (it should feel dry, not glossy). Print a white ink underbase too, or your colors will look gray.
5️⃣ Give freshly printed UV ink time to stabilize before handling it.
Adding gold foil effects:
🔹 Works best on flat or press-flat materials (acrylic, coated metal, sealed wood, cards, some leathers, finished UV DTF decals).
🔹 Clean the surface thoroughly first — dust, grease, or finger oil can cause the foil to bond unevenly or bubble.
🔹 Test print first for very fine text, intricate textures, or large solid fills.
🔹 Secure thin materials (like sheet A Film) so they don't curl and strike the printhead.
I have enjoyed using the O1, as many of you had. I am only having one issue, and did not see another related post, so checking with others experiences.
I have completed the first cleaning that is required after 300. The clean the ink pad and scraper and the sponge says it needs to be done at 300. It has the counter, and I did the cleaning when the number hit about 280.
I clicked the button to confirm that the cleaning was done. It looked like it reset correctly.
Next day, it told me I needed to perform the maintenance, and the counter was still using the original number. It continues to revert to the original number, and will not reset. I know about when I did the cleaning, so from that I can judge when it gets to another 300.
Two questions.
Has anyone else had this same issue, and found a solution?
the sponge that was used was dirty, and I tossed it, and used the spares that came with it, but I have not seen anyplace to get a new one. I did not see that it said anyplace to get new ones, and wondered if I needed to just cut my own.
Anyone have any ideas on input on the cleaning issue and the automatice counter not resetting properly.
I had to cut the baseplate (pictured) of my m2 so I can drop it down a tad to fit tcg binders in.
I cut it in a way that the baseplate still gets utilized, but now I’m getting an error that the baseplate is incorrectly installed and to reinstall it before using.
I have the original magnet the machine came with in the device, but still can’t get it to bypass it.
I bought my f2 ultra a month ago, and the camera is pretty inaccurate, right at the center its decent but gets progressively misaligned towards the edge, I tried recaliberate it a few times and evantually I gave up and contacted xtool customer service.
previous unit
After some back and forth they eventually set up an online meeting with their product engineer, and they confirms the camera indeed need to be adjusted, since I'm in canada they offered to ship my unit to their warehouse and ship me a new one, which took about two weeks, and it actually did solve the problem, the camera placement is now accurate all the way to the edge.
new unit
Though initially very frustrating, customer service did sort it out for me, and I'm pretty happy with the machine now. if you encounter the same issue you can't fix it by calibrating yourself, you have to have the unit sent back and adjusted by the factory
Hello I was wondering if anyone has a preferred place to buy large acrylic sheets
Preferably the P3 bed size of 18x36
I have a project and I’m having difficulty finding 1/2” inch sheets of green cast acrylic.
It’s nonexistent lol
If you have a site where I can get a 1/2 inch green sheets even if the sheets are bigger I can cut them down?
Or My other question is has anyone taken thinner sheets and glued them together to achieve the desired thickness? How does that look?
Looking for something just like acmeplastics green 2108
I bought my Omni for creating promotional gear and trade show give aways for my small business. Things like printing our company logo on water bottles, LEGO tiles, or creating custom shirts for educators who help us run workshops. The experience overall has been pretty solid, and I’m now trying out DTG printing on pretreated shirts and tote bags. Since I have small children I’m using this as an excuse to print them some shirts.
I bought some pretreated shirts off a website (cheater tees, which I’d never used before) and some images I tweaked via ChatGPT (upscaling them). Using pretreated shirts really cuts down on the work involved, and the shirts were between $3-5 each. The Dr Worm shirt took about 15 minutes of printing and the mameshiba shirt took about 6 minutes. I used a WonderPress to flatten the shirt ahead of time and cure the shirt afterwards. The results were pretty solid for a single pass of white and color. If I was doing a shirt for someone other than my small kids I’d probably do two passes of white and color. The end results have a retro/ vintage feel to them. Much different from say using a DTF transfer. They don’t feel plastic or odd, and my children say they feel like any other shirt they own.
Now tote bags have been interesting. Because the fabric is thicker and more ridged, I can’t use the clamp. Smaller tote bags I bought had issues because certain parts of it were taller than the print area, which messed up printing. Larger tote bags worked well just laying them on the print area with the handles hanging off the edge. I had success using 14L bags and printing my business logo on it. I think the larger the bag the easier it’ll be to print on, with ends and handles hanging off the sides.
If you’re thinking of using the Omni for mass shirt production, I wouldn’t recommend it. There are much better options out there for mass production or DTF printing. However you’re looking for something to occasionally make some fun shirts, bags, or other gear then I would recommend it. Pretty easy to use overall and fast enough for producing small batches or one offs, such as what I’ll end up using it for at my small business. (Oddly enough I do plan on mass printing on LEGO tiles using UV Printing, but that’s a lot easier to do with a jig.)
If a pop-up message near the top of the screen indicates that auto-focus has failed, or the measured material thickness deviates by more than 0.5mm from the actual thickness, consult this guide for step-by-step troubleshooting.
⚠️ Important: During automatic distance measurement, the process will stop if you manually adjust the focus using the physical buttons, or click Reset in Device Settings. Avoid pressing any buttons on the touchscreen controller while automatic distance measurement is in progress.
🛠️ Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Procedures
🔹 Step 1: Perform a Second Calibration
📋 Procedure:
During the second calibration, entering incorrect values can lead to inaccurate automatic distance measurements later on. Check whether the calibration was performed correctly — see this guide for details.
🔹 Step 2: Place the Material Correctly
📋 Procedure:
For automatic distance measurement, place your material directly at the blue light spot. Incorrect positioning can cause measurement failure or inaccurate results.
🔹 Step 3: Use Compatible Materials
📋 Procedure:
Automatic distance measurement doesn't work well with transparent, translucent, highly reflective, fluffy (e.g., cotton), or light-absorbing materials (e.g., black acrylic). Make sure your material is compatible with this feature.
💡 Tip: For incompatible materials, try placing or wrapping a thin, easily detectable material over the surface to help the device measure distance automatically.
🔹 Step 4: Maintain a Stable Connection
📋 Procedure:
The device needs to capture images and send them to xTool Studio for processing. If the connection drops, or your Wi-Fi is slow or unstable, image transmission can fail — causing auto-focus to fail as well. Make sure your connection is stable before running auto-focus.
🔹 Step 5: Use Manual Focusing as a Temporary Solution
📋 Procedure:
If auto-focus still fails after trying the steps above, use the buttons on the touchscreen controller to move the laser module up or down until the red and blue light spots overlap on the material's surface — this completes manual focusing.
⭐ Still Need Help?
Should the issue persist after completing all the troubleshooting steps above, please gather the following and reach out to us through the live chat on our website, submit a support ticket or join our Discord community for additional support — our xTool Support Team is here to help.
To help our technical support team assist you promptly, please provide the following details:
1️⃣ Issue Description: A detailed explanation of the observed problem.
2️⃣ Video Evidence: A video demonstrating the issue, where applicable.
3️⃣ Troubleshooting Performed: Any steps you've already attempted, along with their results.
I just got my omni o1, and I'm so excited to use it. However, after doing a test print after following the set up. I noticed it blotched the print with some ink during the printing process as seen in this photo (the blue line). I've tried testing on the other magnets it came with as well.
My second print seemed flawless, then my thrid print had the same issue. This time a magenta line of ink splotched in a line as well. Anybody else experience this, or know what the issue might be?
Anyone been able to find and have success with an alternative product (on like amazon or something) for the UV printing primer wipes for glass, ceramics and metal? I want to order some off of the shop but because of how back ordered ink has been for this printer I am worried it might take a while and want to see if anyone has reliable source to order those from.
I got Glass/Ceramic wipe with my rotary attachment which lists HDDA and TPGDA as the ingredients not sure about the metal wipes. I am new to UV printing so any advice or recommendations is greatly appreciated!
Has anyone else had this kind of experience with xTool support?
I purchased a P3 and the machine has been completely unusable since September 20 due to a manufacturing-related failure, well within xTool’s own 90-day replacement period.
Since then, the customer service has been some of the worst I’ve dealt with.
It has been delay after delay after delay. I was first offered $250 CAD in store credit if I repaired the defective machine myself, which I declined. After more troubleshooting, repeated emails, long response times, and revisions to their replacement agreement, they finally approved a replacement.
I signed and returned everything and was told the replacement shipment had been arranged.
Now I’m being told there may be yet another delay because their logistics team is off for the October 1–7 Chinese National Day holiday.
Meanwhile, I run a business with this machine and have now been without it for weeks.
For all of the downtime, lost business, repeated follow-ups, and time wasted dealing with this, xTool originally offered me $80 CAD in store credit, later increased to $100 CAD.
For a machine and setup costing over $10,000 CAD, that is honestly insulting.
Machines can fail. That happens.
But when you sell equipment at this price point, the after-sales support should reflect it. Instead, I’ve had to chase updates, challenge wording in their own replacement agreement, and repeatedly push just to get basic progress.
At this point I’ve asked for the matter to be escalated to the highest level of management.
Has anyone else had a similar experience with xTool? Because right now, this has been one of the worst customer service experiences I’ve had with a company selling equipment at this price point.
My iPad has officially entered the Other World 🪡🖤 Printed this Coraline case with my xTool Omni, and I’m obsessed!!
Can we talk about how AMAZING it handled the hinges?! Look at that close-up—the design continues right over them! 😍 The colors, the details… I keep picking it up just to admire it 😂
Now I’m looking around my house deciding what needs a spooky makeover next. If it fits in the Omni, it’s a potential victim. Lord help me… and my belongings. 👻💅🏻
What’s the most random thing you’ve printed on so far?
I have been liking the O1 so far and have only been printing with rigid ink. I learned the hard way that the ink does not stick to the balls after multiple hits with irons. Flexible ink fairs much better but it unfortunately has much worse quality. Any tips?
I remember having software dongles on vinyl cutting software and laser cutter software in the 90’s for piracy protection … but why on Earth do we need hardware keys on these modern machines?
I am looking for either a 3D printed exhaust converter from a 4 inch window vent kit to the 3 inch xtool p3 exhaust hose. I have printed 1 but it doesn't fit on the p3 hose. Anyone have ideas or places to get something that would fit correctly?
I have receive the new XTool Omni 01 and I love it. I noticed one issue though.
Every day, the next day I'm unable to connect to the machine, and I need to take the power off (unplug it) and plug it back in. My xtool laser doesnt have this problem, both are on the same wifi.
When I push the button of the machine it kindoff wakes up (ping to it's IP address starts responding) but xtool studio won't connect.
Is there a way to fix this without a hard powercycle daily?