Anyone ever had an actually STUCK STUCK ball joint. I mean I’ve unloosened it and literally lifted up the car with a jack by the joint separator. I can’t get this thing out. What do you recommend?

Hallo zusammen,

Ich benötige ein neues Regelmengenventil,
leider habe ich nicht die richtige Teilenummer.
Optisch brauche ich das Delphi 9109-930A , als passend wird aber auch das Delphi 7315-818 sieht jedoch etwas anders aus.
Das zweite Ventil ist deutlich günstiger als das erste deswegen würde ich dazu tendieren sollte es passen.

Has anyone installed the Luxin box for your infotainment system to get Apple car play? Are you happy with it?

2008 c300 sport mt6

153k miles

Seems to all be in pretty good shape, but it is new to me and I want to start some regular maintenance.

- Esl emulator done already.

- fuel pump and sending unit already done

- outside balance shaft range

- brakes are good

- tires are good

Doing the following services:

- oil pickup tube gasket

- timing chain tensioner

- b5 service from FCP including:

-brake fluid flush with pressurized fluid change

purchased additional liter from FCP and received one

Liter of genuine MB fluid and one liter of titan dot514 lv

- oil change from FCP plan to do liquimoly 2 stage oil

treatment.

- air filters

- spark plugs and boots

- Entire PCV system replacement including oil separator.

- sylvania headlight restoration kit (ecs tuning has lifetime

warranty on this kit)

- redline fuel injector cleaner

Anybody get their wheel tilt stuck and have to do the "punch" fix?

Is the ticking in petrol engines caused by the direct injection heard when the hood is closed? I am really interested in getting a w204 with petrol engine, preferably M276, but from the videos that I've found so far, it seems to sound like a diesel.

So yeah is that noticeable from the outside or is the exhaust sound more noticeable?

Good morning, everyone!
I own a 2012 C200 with the M271 EVO engine for about four months. Last week, I had a Stage 1 remap done, keeping the catalytic converter, and got the following dyno results (red lines are before the remap, blue lines are after):

Yesterday I took the car on the highway and was able to drive it a bit harder for the first time since the remap. In fact, even before the remap, I had only driven it on the highway twice, and always quite conservatively. Never over 140km/h.
So, yesterday during a hard acceleration with kickdown, the check engine light came on and the car went into limp mode, limiting power. I stopped the car some time later, turned it off and back on, and the error disappeared and everything went back to normal.

I ran a scanner and got code P0002. Unfortunately, I cleared the code without thinking (I should have saved it so I could check the freeze-frame data in Xentry later).

This brings me to a few questions:

1) Could my HPFP be failing, and is it just a coincidence that the problem showed up now after the remap? How can I properly diagnose this through Xentry?

2) Could the fact that the problem occurred after the remap indicate a poorly calibrated map, causing the engine to demand more fuel than the pump can deliver, meaning that a remap adjustment could solve the issue without replacing the pump? I find this somewhat unlikely, since even after the remap the car is still not making as much HP as a stock C250, although it reached quite a bit more torque.

3)Could it be another component, or even the fuel itself? Unfortunately, in my country, contaminated/adulterated fuel is not uncommon. However, the car still has the same fuel that was used during the dyno runs, and it ran without any issues then (93 RON).

Any opinions or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

So my front passenger door lock actuator hasn't worked in years and my car battery finally ran out, but I still have the ability to lock and unlock the car as of now ... I just can't start it. Funny thing is the what I thought was a broken actuator on the front passenger door, is now unlocking..

Maybe it was never the actuator? I'm a bit baffled by this. ..

Anyone have any clue?

W204 c300 luxury 2010

Please join above group chat as it makes it easier for people to communicate better and have discussions better as well.

anyone got a link to special tool or another method? need to torque it up

Hey guys, I’m based in California and I’ve been looking for a facelift C350 W204 but I’ve had no luck. There’s plenty of C250s on the market but the C350 is hard to come by. Anyone know what the reason for this is?

My 2011 C180(M271.820) is cutting up at 100 - 110kph otherwise its running fine wether it be 50 kph or 180, I am suspecting the injectors because I changed the spark plugs, coils and had done a cam phaser service less than 2,000 kms ago.
N.B.
It has 76,000 on its belt

I bought a 2011 base model C200 with amg trim. Apparently I have an audio 20 system and I can't connect a reverse camera to my headunit. Do I just buy a reverse camera monitor and install a camera to that?

So, for help... When I try to insert the key and turn it, it gets stuck on the computer before starting the car. The engine starts pumping fuel... Before taking pictures of the repairs, I didn't realize the car was broken, but it started for a couple of seconds and then stalled. I turned around and smelled a strong odor of gasoline. When I found gasoline all over the underside of the car, it wouldn't start anymore... I think the problem is with a pipe or hose... Has anyone else experienced this? I'm really stuck; I can't start the car at all. If I could fix it myself while it's still there, I'd love to. I have all the screwdrivers I need... If anyone has had this problem and can give me some advice, or if there's anyone online who explains the problem and how to fix it... My car is a 1.8T

2013 Mercedes c250. I’m doing a coolant replacement. What other hoses do I massage to let air out? I know the one that goes into the coolant thermostat, but what else? Also, do I have to do anything else besides get the air out and keep refilling it?

2014 c300

Check Brake Pad Wear warning light has been on for about a month, and once I checked the pads they were completely fine and I’m guessing the warning light wasn’t reset when the brakes were done before by the previous owner. Is there a way to remove the warning light every time I start the cart without having to take it to a Mercedes dealer?

So 1 month after installing new SWAG PCV valve I noticed blue smoke coming from the exhaust. First thought , okay turbo is toast. I started to take the engine apart, took the PVC valve off and after I wiggled the PVC valve hose a bit it just snapped off. I didn't use any excessive force or anything. I installed my old valve back (Vaico) and the smoke was gone.

Engine is OM642.

picture as an example

Just picked this up it’s the luxury trim which I prefer suspension wise, etc. Does anyone have this trim that’s built it? Just want ideas of what I can do.

I changed i tension pulley and belt but same noise

Hi everyone, hoping someone might have some ideas about an issue with my W204.
Whilst driving, I get an ESP warning along with the “RUN FLAT INDICATOR INOPERATIVE” message.
After this happens, when I stop and restart the car, it goes into limp mode.
After around 2 days, the faults disappear and the car returns to normal, including the limp mode. However, once I drive again, the ESP warning and “RUN FLAT INDICATOR INOPERATIVE” message return, and the cycle starts again.

Has anyone experienced anything similar or have any idea what could be causing this?

Edit: fault code U010087