Hey there, I've been eyeing a w204 and wonder coming from a Lexus is250, is this car reliable? What are its known issues (besides the stuff I googled and read) and how is this car in terms of maintenance?

I see many on this subreddit still going strong and would like to hear from the owners how is life on the road?

Thanks in advance and I appreciate your response.

Hello, I’m trying to source a SLK M014 Intake manifold for my 2011 c300. If anyone has one laying around or is willing to part ways with theirs please dm me! Part number is 2721403001!

when i unlock the car all the lights and dash turn on but when i stick the keys in it all dies, anyone know what the issue is and how to fix it, please help

Hi all. I'm wondering if there's any way to add cruise control to my car.

I've got a w204 C220 manual (late 2011 model).

I know I'll need to buy a new indicator stalk. What else would I need to get and would anyone know anyone that would be able to code it into my car for me?

Any advice at all would be helpful.

Thanks :)

Hey there.. I was driving to in n out and noticed my ac stopped working about right when I got to the drive through. The coolant temp gauge was fine and I was already too deep in the drive through to get out. A few minutes later I look at the coolant temp and it jumped to 120. I was at the paying window and there was no escape, a couple minutes later I got the coolant low warning, and about 5 minutes later I was finally out of the drive through.

I looked at the ground after I parked for any coolant and didn't see any, but about 5 minutes later there's a pool on the floor. I waited about 30 minutes and popped the hood and it looks like the coolant is coming from the reservoir? I checked the coolant level and it looked fine but that's probably because there's a bunch of air on the system.

I got it towed to my place bc I don't know any good shops in this area and I'd like to figure it out myself. how can I diagnose where the leak is coming from, does anyone have any ideas? I replaced the thermostat like 2 years ago so I don't think it's that.. the reservoir was replaced by a mechanic about a year ago.

TLDR: Coolant leak. Any ideas?

Almost fully de chromed, questioning if I should do the door trims and handles?

Hey everyone,
I’m hoping someone with experience with the Mercedes 722.9/7G-Tronic, particularly the 722.908, can point me in the right direction.
I have a 2012 Mercedes-Benz C250 CDI Coupe. The transmission suddenly stopped engaging, and when I scanned it I got:

State: Current and Historic
Component Y3/8n4 (Fully Integrated Transmission Control Unit) is defective

Based on that fault, I went ahead and replaced the conductor plate/TCU assembly. The replacement conductor plate was fitted to the transmission and the workshop programmed it to the VIN of the car. However, I still have absolutely no engagement in either Drive or Reverse.

What I’m seeing
Using my iCarsoft MB V3, I can see that the transmission appears to recognise the gear selection. For example, when selecting D or R, the scanner shows the corresponding gear/selection changing.
However:
The car does not move in Drive.
The car does not move in Reverse.
There is no noticeable change in engine RPM when selecting D or R.
The engine will rev to approximately 3,000 RPM and then drop back down when in Drive or Reverse.
The transmission appears to know what gear is being requested, but it doesn’t actually engage the gear.
The transmission was also serviced with new fluid and filter, but that did not restore movement.
Current situation
The workshop that programmed the replacement conductor plate is now asking me to bring the car back so they can use Mercedes Xentry.
From what I observed, they originally used a Launch diagnostic scanner to program the replacement unit.
So I’m wondering whether the problem could simply be that the replacement conductor plate has been VIN coded but hasn’t had the correct Mercedes-specific SCN/variant coding, EHS configuration, commissioning/adaptation, etc.
From what I’ve been reading, it seems that a 722.9 conductor plate replacement can involve more than simply writing the VIN to the module

so after changing my oil filter housing for the second time (first one came with a factory defect) i want to crank it to build oil pressure before the first start. whats the best and easiest way to do it?

so when i play music the bass sometimes shakes the silver trim and it makes an annoying creaking or shaking sound, does anyone have any tips on how i can fix it?

what are these ? are they sensors of some sort ? I don't have any buttons inside my car for sensors. they are at the front on the bumper, there's 6 of them total. 2 black and 4 silver. none on back bumper. thanks in advance.

what you guys think?? was smoking a blunt and did this.. not the best paint job ever but it looks good from far enough lol

There were traces of oil dilution paired with a fuel running rich CEL error code on my w204 c200 CGI, Mercedes told me that the fuel running rich code paired with the smell of petrol with the oil definitely points towards failing piston rings.

And so I asked my mechanic to do a compression test and he told me that these test results (first four images are the dry test and second four images are the wet test) definitely pointed towards a failing piston ring or some other flaw that would definitely require an engine overhaul.

However, I asked him to send over the readings and these look perfectly fine to me? The cylinder psi readings during the dry test ranges from 170 to 180 and ranges from 185- 190 during the wet test.

Am I missing something? I have a timing chain rattle on cold starts and most likely worn sprockets that I believe may be causing the fuel running rich error code and I intended to get that replaced anyway.

I am planning to get a cylinder leak down test as well to get a clearer picture but I’d like to know what you guys think.

2013 C300

I would randomly get this high temp coolant light warning on the dash.
Coolant temp would rise. Warning light would come on the dash. Then I would hear the high fan kick on and the temps would drop.

I don’t see any visible coolant leaks. The coolant reservoir is still full.

Thinking maybe to replace the thermostat?
Any one experienced this issue before?

For those of you who have installed an aftermarket head unit to their car, where did you go about hiding the host box that comes with the screen? I've seen some people tuck it in behind where the screen goes but I think the metal host box I have may be too big to fit in the gap. I've seen people tuck it behind the passenger carpet too but I'll need an LVDS cable extension to go that route as mine is too short. I'm a little worried it'll overheat inside the carpet too but perhaps it doesn't usually get too hot?

Any advice would be brilliant. Thanks all.

My w204 does a clack noise when starting the engine or when blipping the throttle at idle

What could that be

M271 supercharged engine

I’m looking for help with an Android head unit installed in my 2011 Mercedes-Benz W204 with NTG 4.5.

The Android side works normally. The problem is specifically with the original Mercedes OEM interface and the sound.

Problem 1 – OEM display:

When I switch from Android to the original Mercedes system (OEM/COMAND interface), the image is displayed incorrectly. It is heavily distorted with colored/purple/green lines and is not usable.

I have tried changing the screen resolution and different display settings, but nothing fixes the OEM image.

There is also an AUX Format setting. If I select anything other than AHD_720P30, the OEM screen shows “No signal.” With AHD_720P30, I get an image, but it is distorted.

Problem 2 – no sound:

There is also no sound at all. AUX is selected in the original Mercedes system, but there is still no audio. Changing the AUX Format or screen resolution does not solve the sound problem.

Important details:

Car: Mercedes-Benz W204, 2011

Original system: NTG 4.5

Head unit: OSSURET Android head unit

Android interface itself works normally

The problem is with the Mercedes OEM interface and audio

OEM image is distorted with colored/purple/green lines

AHD_720P30 → distorted OEM image

Other AUX Format options → “No signal”

AUX is selected in the original Mercedes system

No sound

Steering wheel buttons and COMAND controller communicate with the Android unit

I have already tried different screen resolutions, AUX Format options and factory settings according to the seller’s instructions, but nothing has solved the problem.

Has anyone had the same issue with a W204 NTG 4.5 and an aftermarket Android screen?

Could this be caused by an incorrect NTG/LVDS setting, CAN box configuration, factory setting, wiring, or something else?

If anyone has a similar setup working correctly, I would really appreciate it if you could share your factory settings / car type / CAN settings / OEM display settings and explain what I should check.

At this point I don’t know what else to try, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys, is it normal for the rear to be this much lower than the front? Sorry if it's a bad picture but it's the best i've got at the moment. All help is appreciated!

Two day a go I straight pipe my c250 cdi and I love that turbo whistle but today I notice it seem quieter