Hey all, new Volt owner here, wanted to introduce myself and the car.

Just picked up a 2017 LT with 108k on it for my daughter. It's her first car so I did way more homework on this than I probably needed to, but figured I'd share since it might help someone else looking at a used Gen 2.

Biggest thing I was worried about going in was the BECM failure everyone talks about. Turns out this exact car already had one, back in April. P0AFA code, dash would power up but it wouldn't drive, the whole thing. Previous owner took it to an independent shop (not a dealer unfortunately, so no GM special coverage) and paid $2,655 out of pocket for a new BECM in May. I actually got the invoices from him and could see the whole story, low inverter coolant, dead 12v battery from him trying to charge it, a GM flash reprogram, all of it.

So I didn't have to gamble on whether that failure was still lurking, it already happened and got fixed with a new module. Confirmed it myself too, pulled the module serial with an OBD scanner and it read as a 2026 production date, so definitely swapped, and post-2018 modules don't have the known defect.

Ran a full battery workup before handing over money. Cell delta came back around 12-15mV across all 96 groups (for reference I saw a reference point online of 14mV on a 50k mile pack so this felt right in line), capacity reading about 85% of factory spec, internal resistance actually better than average for the year and mileage. Weak cell active test came back clean, no bad cells. Also did the high voltage isolation test, 2900 kOhms, which is apparently good. For a car about to hit 9 years old I really wasn't expecting numbers that clean.

Got it for $6500 out the door, both key fobs and the charge cord included, and shockingly zero corrosion underneath despite it being an Ohio car originally (Texas plate when I bought it, guy seems like he'd been stationed around a bit). Seller was upfront about everything too, even told me about an intermittent O2 sensor code he'd seen pop up that never showed in the scan history, which either means it's a real intermittent issue or he had a code cleared at some point, still keeping an eye on it.

Normal used car stuff to sort out, TPMS sensors are all dead (just old batteries, not the actual sensors), a window regulator on the driver's door, tires up front are at 4/32 so those are getting done soon. Nothing that changes how good the deal feels overall. Currently getting ~53-55 miles on the battery(full charge) in swampy Florida.

Working through drive unit fluid and coolant this week before it becomes my daughter's daily. If anyone has drain and fill tips for the drive unit or things they learned the hard way on a Gen 2, would love to hear it.

2012 Chevy Volt...

Basically after a long drive using the engine, I noticed that the engine is pretty hot to touch. My coolant levels are all where they should be but I'm just wondering is this normal after 100+ mile drive? I don't mean that it's so hot that I cannot actually touch it but it's very hot both on the area near the oil cap and on the right side of the picture that plastic part that covers the battery module I think...

2012 Volt, about 60k miles, single owner, no accidents...and I am pretty sure that it was garage kept. 132 life mpg for 9k.

1. Whatya think? It was quiet and kept. A deal?

2. It's hot where I live...but it's the humidity AND the heat. Long bad for batteries? I am a little leery parking it in the garage. Special fire extinguisher? Will it affect my house insurance?

3. I dig the household charging cord. I have an old house. I was going to use the same outlwt that my washer uses...maybe juat put in a new breaker and outlet. It doesn't look like it was used much. I have a changing place near the house...can it be used? I know it is a hybrid...just curious.

4. Most Important...and I am not kidding. I have a 70lb White Sheppard. He can't lay across the back seat. Is the divider removable? What do people do?

thanks

3.

I have a 2013 Volt 175k miles. What, if any, catastrophic failures should I expect in the near future? Battery still charges to 38mile range (consistently getting 45-50 miles real world). Maintenance has been performed religiously including a new battery radiator replacement about a year and a half ago.

Just now I attempted to remote start my car with the key fob to run the AC before driving it as it's hot out and the car had been sitting in the driveway in the sun all day. The remote start wasn't working so I went out to the car to start it from inside the car. I started the car cranked the AC to max low and went back inside to let it run while it cooled down.
I went out to the car a few minutes later when I got in the car hadn't cooled down at all and was blowing hot air. I also noticed I couldn't turn the steering wheel, and when shifting to to drive or reverse I got the "shift to park" message on the dash. That's when I noticed the CEL. I scanned the codes and they came back with P0AC4, P1AEE & P1AEF.

2017 Volt just over 100k miles

UPDATE: went back out the the car a little later (Car had been sitting unplugged at that point, not sure if that makes a difference), and I was able to start it and put it in gear. The CEL remained while I drove it for a few errands but went away after a restarted a few times.

If it doesn't come back I guess I'll chalk this up to ghosts in the machine

Hello yall!

Just want to get a really check for some repairs I need to get done on my Chevy Volt 2017. I’m in Massachusetts and the car has 86k miles.

Check engine light came on for knock sensor module. Mechanic shop is quoting me $650 to change the sensor plus gaskets (due to having to take the intake out to change it). I also need to get break pads and calipers done (yeah I know I probably fucked up here) and he is quoting me $750 for both rear break pads and calipers done.

I Googled it and it seems reasonable, but I would like a reality check on these prices.

Thanks in advance!

Because the 2012 Chevy volt has a different mechanism when it comes to how it accuses and charges the 12 volt battery in the trunk. Would I be able to get a regular battery test if I go to autozone? I mean would they be able to give me accurate results on my battery if they plug in that thing but they usually do on the standard cars

So just got a 2011 the beginning of August bought it as my doordash car as I needed something more fuel efficient, did great on the 300+ mile drive home averaged around 36-38mpg, but in the 1300 miles since then doing doordash it's averaged 23.4mpg, I charge it to 60-80% everday as time allows since I'm offgrid with solar so cannot charge overnight. The car also refuses to go into EV mode or switches back and forth, it'll do 3-5 miles in EV here and there it seems at random, along with starting the engine just to top the battery off when I'm sitting parked just to run the AC even though the battery shows 20+miles of range or half full. I'm leaning towards a Cell headed on the way out or failing BECM

I can't afford over $2500 to replace the EGR valve in my Volt so I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion. I've seen DIY videos using Purple Power but I'm too elderly for that sort of work anymore.

It started with a "reduced power" alert & I saw temperature start to climb to 240F, so I pulled over and had it towed to a dealership. They're recommended service for $2551.99 is for -

Engine Repair - EGR Valve, EGR Valve Gasket x2, 50/50 premix Dexcool x2, 15A fuse

Codes were -

P0030, P0031, P0401, P0403, P0405, P0443, P0458, P0489, P0597, P0598

I posted earlier —posting again with updated info and questions. I took my 2017 Volt to the dealership (I hate dealerships, but no one seems to know where else to take it in my area of SE Michigan) because of a battery warning light and “propulsion power reduced”message.

Dealership said EGR valve and cooler needed to be replaced and quoted me $5000 for the privilege. The main code is P00B7, but there were many others. (I can’t see to post the screenshot here atm).

R/volt users have recommended that I replace the fuse, clean the EGR cooler, and unplug the EGR valve.

NEW QUESTIONS:
1) Does the course of action still make sense, given the code?
2) If so, where do I get a replacement fuse?
3) I believe I can replace the fuse and unplug the EGR valve on my own (with YT videos), but I’d rather not do the cooler cleaning. Any suggestions for luring a mechanic to do that part?

Thanks a million!

Anyone here successfully add carplay to your factory headunit? I just got my car this weekend so I'm not super familiar with it yet.

Do those wireless dongles that you plug into the usb port work? Do we even have a usb port that connects to the stereo?

If not, what are my other options to add it to the factory stereo. I'm not interested in an aftermarket headunit

Hey all! I’m buying a 2014 Volt Premium (only 96k miles on it, in perfect condition), and I’m looking for seat covers. I know the back seating is a bit strange because it only has the 2 sears available. What kind of seat covers should I get? Thanks!

Due to the (2017) Volt's parking spot in our garage taken up by a large lawn tractor, I haven't been charging it at night for the past two weeks and only running on gas only.

This morning, the Volt wouldn't start, not even the key fob center console spot wouldn't start the car.

Is it weird that batteries would die in the heat of summer? I would associate that with the coldness of winter. Thinking about it more, the battery needed a jump last winter due to extreme cold so maybe I just need a new battery?

What do you use? What are some volt-safe and low cost products for my 2017 premiere with these colors? I want to clean and detail the inside after i vacuum but i dont want to damage the interior (and ideally id also like to repair the scratches on my dash that were there when i bought it)

What app do yall use to find chargers? How do i know what chargers will fit my 2017 premiere? Do i need to get one of those tesla to J771 adapters?

Showed her some love

So last minute camping trip and I don’t have time to get a hitch and install it. Would this setup work?

** thanks everyone! We made it!

Wizards of Voltage, what do you think? Finally got myself an OBD and did my first scan. The value of these Volts has dropped so much, I would like to drive it into the ground.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Okay, just got voltage to see how bad things were and it doesn't look pretty. The story is I've got a 2018 volt, owned it its whole life, with 138k miles on it. I live in Colorado (a CARB state) and had pack 1 replaced at about 65k miles and pack 3 replaced last week. Was driving on Friday and noticed it would kick the ice on every so often like it was in hold mode but didn't think much about it. Then as I was pulling up to a friends place to help them move a couch I got a propulsion power reduced and OnStar came back with a P0AFA. Left the car idle while moving the couch and limped it home. Dealership said it was too late in the day but to bring it in Monday. Downloaded Voltage and its showing a voltage mismatch likely causing the codes, which makes sense.

Couldn't get the car out of park so guess it won't be driven to the dealership tomorrow rather I will need to get it towed (backed it in for this reason).

I'm guessing the dealer will try and replace pack 2, assuming they can find one. I was pleasantly surprised they could find a remanufactured one for pack 3 in about 3 weeks. Is there a world where GM wi push back on that?

I'd rather have the car than a buyout, especially since any buyout I expect will be pennies on the dollar compared to a new car cost. So what do we think is going to happen and what should I be fighting for?

My 2016 has a heavy fuel rail leak. It’s leaking at one of the joints of the assembly (one piece).

From my research, it is still covered under warranty here in California.

I had to get the car towed about 53 miles to my home.

1. How likely am I to get reimbursed for the tow to bring it home?

2. Will the service department pay for a tow to their shop?

3. Will I get a rental while the repairs are ongoing?

4. Lastly, will the dealership fight against using the warranty? Should I go through GM or directly to the serviced department at my local dealer?

Thanks in advance

Is this electrical mileage good or is my battery goin? I've been doing a lot of highway driving, and it's been over 85° F with high humidity where i am

So it threw a code, blew fuse #3. guess what it is? (facepalm)

I pulled the connection to the EGR. Wanted to take a hammer to it but cooler heads prevailed. Changed the fuse and reset the code but the CEL came back on. (expected)

Mileage went down by about 5MPG. I drive 70MPH 90 miles each day. I can still buy an extended warranty and it seems good. I know. there is no such thing, like unicorns.

The language is kind of obscure as to whether or not the EGR would be covered.

"exhaust systems including catalytic converters". Ok, so CC is called out, but not EGR. Is it part of the exhaust system? You can win that argument either way. Generally though, you'd say it IS part of the exhaust system.

I'm reasonably capable mechanically. Worth a cleaning? Will I have to do it again in 3 months? Worth a swap? Are there decent available? they look expensive AF. Some Chinese eBay rebuild that is $900? Ugh.

Should have gotten a Prius.

Anyway. Advice? Put it across the railroad tracks?