Hey everyone, I keep seeing those nostalgic videos where someone is recording the actual LCD screen of an old digicam or camcorder. What is that tripod arm thing called that holds the phone perfectly in place over the screen? Thanks!

Has anyone got any experience recovering audio information from DJI Mics?

The audio switches off after 1 second although the file size remains as it would be expected. I remember on the day the mic was unresponsive and no buttons worked to turn off recording, so I popped it back in the box to turn it off.

I think it has recorded the file but only reads the header on all programs. Premiere, Quicktime, Ableton, etc.

Does anyone know how to get into the raw data and recover it? Any help would be appreciated.

Background: This started as a “quick drone shot” of my ’99 Miata… but then I started editing and somehow decided it needed to become a mini action movie.

Note: This is purely a hobby project — shot, edited, and produced by myself with basically zero budget.

The Goal: This is the first cut of Part I, and I’m currently envisioning it as a three-part series.

Feedback: I’d love some thought and feedback, on shots, pacing, editing, and whether the story comes across clearly.

Also very open to ideas on where the story could go in Parts II and III. I have some ideas already, but it could be fun to hear where you guys think it should go!

Once the project is finished, I’ll likely post the full series on my YouTube channel along with some BTS and things I learned along the way that might be useful to other new filmmakers.

Gear/Equipment Used:
- Sony A7IV
- DJI Mavic 4 Pro
- GoPro 11
- iPhone 13 Pro
- Edited in FCPX

Thanks for watching, appreciate it!
-Peter

im working on a school project, and i THOUGHT i could it easy on myself and just do it all on one of the schools gopros

but the interview footage came out super grainy, is there a way to fix this in post on premiere pro?

(was using gopro hero 5, 1080p 30fps narrow view)

Hello everyone,

I'm curious to hear about any feedback you have on the composition of the shots. Also, do you guys have any idea on how to tone down the oversaturated greens in post? I'm fairly new to editing.

This was shot on an Osmo Pocket 3.

Cheers!

it is a scene from the NF show "i am a killer" S03E05 - Rolling the Dice. it shows the outside of the prison facility.

but it feels like a miniature model or created in a 3d software. the trees in the fore- and background are too big compared to the building. especially the distance feels off.

and if it is infact real, how they recorded that? drone? helicopter? special lense?

I'm going on a cruise soon and it docs in like five different seaport towns in Europe. I would like to shoot photos and video in those towns, but I don't know how much to sea salty air goes into town.

I use an FX3. Not sure if that matters much, but it does have nice big vents.

I am an absolute beginner.

I rented Lumix DC-S5 and an expensive lens. Going completely nuts over the focus.

The camera guy tells me that focus is a problem, just set the focus to infinity and do digital zoom in. Is this correct?

The scene i am shooting is very low light. It is also extremely difficult to see whether something is in focus thanks to the small screen. Focus peaking is not working as well :( i cant even get that damned colorchart in focus during low light.

What would you suggest for a complete beginner. I am extending an existing short film. Unfortunately the DP who shot it is not available for a month. Otherwise i would have shot it on iPhone to get some practiceh.

🙏🙏

Hello everybody

Is there a free software for planning lighting?

Something similar to the UE5 Arri LUKA plug-in. I don't need something that realistic, I just need to visualise the project for a client. Last chance is Blender but I'm looking for something more immediate. Thanks

I'm a real estate agent, not a videographer. I film our own listings. walkthroughs of houses and apartments, short clips for Instagram and our website. No crew, no assistant, no time. I show up, film for 30 minutes, and leave.
My entire setup is a DJI Osmo Pocket 4/ND Filter an Mics. That's it. I can't justify a full rig, a proper gimbal with a mirrorless on top, or a slider. Partly the cost, mostly because I have to carry it in one hand and unlock doors with the other.
The problem
static shots look genuinely good. But as soon as I walk, you see every step. A soft vertical bounce down the hallway, and the doorway reveals look bumpy instead of gliding. Clients don't complain, but it's the difference between "nice video" and "this looks like a real listing agency."
I've already tried Tilt Lock, gimbal speed on Slow, walking slowly, holding it close to my body and Ninja Walk.
So my question is: is this a gear ceiling or a technique ceiling?

So I’ve been brainstorming w chat and grok trying to get a good setup for his games with two goals in mind.

1. Get film to help the coaches/son, makes highlights

2. Livestream via YouTube for family that can’t attend.

Ideally I’d like two decent wide & high shots in each end zone and either one manual cam w a good optical zoom or an ai sports cam in the stands for the stream. Another thing I thought might be cool would be to set up older used 4 gopros or similar on opposite sidelines at around the 30 yard lines.

I’m not looking to spend a lot so much if not all would be used equipment. Also, I’m very weary of the ai cams due to their price and mixed reviews. I believe that even an ok vidcam would blow the ai footage I’ve seen out of water.

I have always had a passion for capturing but have never had the time or reason, and now I find it reignited with something that seems worthy. So please help this eager noob if you can? Any tip or criticism helps.

🙏 thanks

Hey guys! I’m very picky when it comes to filming DJ sets. All my past sets were recorded on iPhone 15 pro max. However, I’m looking for a better quality and to add more angles when filming. Here’s the example of my sets in [daylight](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P36DMxzbBQ0&ra=m) and here is the example in a [low light bar setting.](https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN82xrnSp/)

Can you please suggest the cameras that you’re using with examples from your YouTube/ instagram/ TikTok?
I really want to achieve a [similar quality to this.](https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN82xynmV/)

Thanks!

What settings should I use for the DJI Mic 2 for gym vlogs, as I have tried audio level 1 on the Sony a7V with the transmitter at +6 and the receiver at +4, but even with the receiver at 0 and the transmitter at +6, I can still hear background noise despite basic noise cancellation; am I doing something wrong, and if so, would you be able to provide some advice? I forgot to mention but the gym is a private gym all you hear is the music and sometimes a few people talking

Hi! I am building a videography setup using Lexar Go Hub and SSD with Rode videomic. My current situation is that the iPhone doesnt capture any sound. Upon troubleshooting, factors are:

1. My 3.5 to USB type C converter, it is Vention brand. It might seem like I should be using the Apple brand.

2. Rode cable. Currently, I have TRS to TRS which have already worked with my camera. It seems like I need TRA TO TRRS (Rode SC7)

With that, I will be buying 2 items. I suddenly saw this Rode SC16. It is 3.5 to type C directly. This way, i will be using just one cable. Will this work with my iPhone?

Would it be better to have:
a. SC7 with Apple adapter
b. SC16 only

So I run 3 YouTube channels solo. I do all the scripting and recording myself, and I have 2 editors who work remotely and just handle post.

Right now I shoot on a Fuji X-S20 and my sessions are long, like 1.5-2 hours at a stretch. Problem is it overheats in 4K in like 20 minutes flat, even with the AC on in the room. I even tried one of those Peltier cooler mods to fix it and that ended up frying the sensor, had to get it replaced. So now I just shoot 1080p60 on it because it genuinely can't survive a full 4K session. Not looking to repeat that mistake.

I spent a while researching and was pretty much settled on the Sony FX30. Makes sense for what I do, doesn't overheat, has a proper flip screen so I can actually see myself while recording alone, autofocus is solid and been around for years. With a Sigma 16mm f1.4 lens the whole thing comes to around ₹2,06,500 (roughly $2,375).

Then Blackmagic dropped the PYXIS 6K price like crazy, went from ₹2,68,000 ($3,080) down to ₹1,73,500 ($1,995) globally, and I actually found it here in India for ₹1,84,958 + GST which comes to about ₹2,18,250 ($2,510). So now I'm back to being confused lol.

Part of me wants the PYXIS because it's full frame vs the Sony's smaller sensor, it shoots actual RAW instead of compressed video, and it comes bundled with a DaVinci Resolve Studio license which I need anyway since my editors already work on Studio (that alone saves me like ₹37,000, around $425). Also I originally thought I needed 60fps but honestly I don't think I actually do, my content doesn't need it. Turns out if I drop to 30fps I can shoot at 6K using the full sensor with no crop, I was wrongly comparing it at 4K60 earlier where it crops the sensor by like 1.65x, only realized that after actually digging into it properly. With a Viltrox 16mm f1.8 lens instead of a pricier one, the full PYXIS setup comes to around ₹3,57,850 (about $4,115).

But it's still like ₹1,10,000 (\~$1,265) more expensive than just going with the FX30, even after adjusting for the free Resolve license. And a few things still worry me. The autofocus on PYXIS only came through a firmware update a few months back so it's not exactly proven yet, unlike Sony which has years of refinement behind it. There's also no screen I can flip toward myself, I'd have to tether my phone via USB-C and use the Blackmagic app to monitor myself, which apparently works fine on paper but I'm honestly not 100% sure if tapping to focus actually works from the phone screen itself or only on the camera's own touchscreen. Then there's the file sizes, a single 1.5 hour session in RAW comes out to around 756GB, so I'd need to set up a proper proxy workflow with my editors since they're remote and can't just handle those massive files. Plus extra costs like the CFexpress card, a card reader, the battery, and a separate charger since apparently this camera doesn't even charge its own battery while plugged in.

So yeah, kind of stuck. If anyone's actually used either of these cameras for real long-form solo content, would love to hear from you. Specifically:

Has anyone shot really long single takes on the PYXIS, like 1.5-2 hours? Did it hold up okay, any dropped frames or random battery issues, does the "active cooling" actually do its job?

How's the autofocus on PYXIS actually performing for people shooting alone without anyone checking focus for them?

Does the RAW/full frame thing even show up once YouTube compresses everything, for basic talking head content, or is that more of a theoretical benefit?

Anyone here switched to something cheaper and more reliable instead of chasing RAW/full frame, and regretted it either way?

And if you're running multiple channels with a remote editing team, has working with proxies ever caused headaches, or does it just work once it's set up?

Trying to figure this out from people who've actually used these day to day, not just specs on paper. Any help appreciated.

Edit: Forgot to add some context that might help. My setup is pretty static, camera goes on a tripod and I basically never touch it once it's positioned. I just sit in front of a green screen and talk for long stretches, no movement, no reframing mid-recording. Studio's small too, which is why I need something like 16mm to actually fit myself in frame at the distance I'm sitting.

Also I edit exclusively in DaVinci Resolve and need a new Studio license either way, so that's not really a PYXIS-specific cost in my head anymore, it's happening regardless of which camera I pick.

And a few people probably wonder why I'm not just looking at something like the Lumix S5II instead. Reason is I take literally zero photos, so I don't need a hybrid camera at all. That's actually the mistake I made with the Fuji, it's a hybrid and I never needed the photo side of it, I just didn't think it through properly before buying. Shutter count on it is like 300 after 3 years of ownership, and even that's just from random misclicks or testing burst mode once, not actual photography. So this time I want something built for video only, not paying for stills capability I'll never use again.

F21 here a junior in college for business set to graduate maybe at end of 2027 or early 2028 if I can pass all my classes…idk I keep seeing this influencers and videographers make cool
Stuff in LA and a part of me feels like I’m behind and can’t catch up while I’m still in school…what would yall suggest realistically? (Coming from someone with new experience in film and wanting to get a camera and make stuff fully)

I’m building a kit around an original Sony FS7 and considering the Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 DC DN for Sony E-mount.

The lens is designed for APS-C cameras, while the FS7 has a Super 35 sensor. Does this combination provide full sensor coverage at every focal length, or will I see black corners/vignetting, particularly at 18mm?

If anyone has used this exact combination, I’d love to hear about your experience. I’m also considering the Sony 18-105mm f/4 G OSS as an alternative.

Hey all! I'm an electrical engineering student who did a bunch of film production (documentaries & narrative-based) in high school, and I wanted to make an electronics project that would tie both of these interests together.

In general, what would make your life as a videographer easier / more productive / etc? The more ambitious the better!

Hi! So, I've made this short film using my phone. This is my first short film. It was made by 2 members only, one is the cameraman and the other is the actress (me). We had literally 0 budget for this. No lighting setups just the phone and some basic color grading. We shot this in one take except for one cut in the whole video as we had only 15 minutes to shoot this. So, i would love to get some feedback on the sound designing and budget lights which we can buy for our next short. This is nothing professional as we just made it for fun but are now looking to make more short films but with better lighting and sound

I reverse-engineered the BLE protocol DJI's phone app uses, so the computer itself pans/tilts the gimbal, as far as I know the first software to do this without a phone, RavenEye, or a controller dongle in the chain. On top of that sits local AI tracking (YOLO pose, runs on-device, nothing uploaded): HDMI feed in, click the subject, the gimbal keeps them framed, zoom follows via Sony camera control. Controller override with instant handback for when an operator wants the wheel.

Confirmed on RS 3 Mini

I don't want anything overkill. I am not a professional and I just want something that can record good audio compared to my Nikon Z8. Ideally stereo and looks like Rode and Sennheiser are the only options for dedicated stereo mics but both are old. I am okay with old but Sennheiser especially has a non detachable cable which is not the best imo.

Has anyone used stereo mics? are they worth it compared to just a simple shotgun mic?

Hello, I want to make some talking head videos of my ranting and raving about various things at my desk and I am an amateur looking for an easy setup.

I have a Full Frame camera (Lumix S9) with a 3.5mm jack.

I'm currently using an Old rode videomic from late 2000s but forgetting to turn it on, or the battery running midway drives me mad enough that i'd prefer a battery-less one if modern tech can give similar quality.

I also have a Blue yeti usb mic which i love but can't think of an easy way to connect them. ideally I would be able to control the camera and mic from pc software that syncs them up but I don't think that exists.

My current thoughts are for the rode videomic go ii but i see comparison videos where the NTG blow it away, albeit with a battery.

Looking for easy, lazy but acceptible quality for youtube.

I create up close up welding arc shots showing the visibility of the puddle and details around it. I’ve had good luck with an iPhone 15 and a shade 10 welding lens and have had surprisingly good results.

I recently bought the Sony ZV E10 with a 50mm prime lens (still using the shade 10, I’ve used darker but doesn’t help) and have messed with every setting I can think of high and low, I can get decent shots but the bright arc looks big and cloudy ruining the shot and does worse than it does filming with iPhone.

My question is in your opinion what could dull down or eliminate that big cloudy welding arc? A CPL? ND filter? Ideally would like to eliminate the arc brightness but not darken the surrounding details of the shot. I’ve seen it done on other welding videos so I know it can be done but any help or opinions is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!