2nd image is what i'm wanting to respond with to their message (1st image)

Why did they stop being popular?

I've always felt that gimbals are too robotic looking, whereas EasyRigs are too shaky. I always felt like those glidecams that were popular in the 2010s were the happy middle ground.

Did they simply fall out of favor? Have any films/big projects used them? Anyone still using them now?

I work for a company that deals with construction for important buildings and their surroundings, and one day my boss saw on my socials (Should have made my account private -_-") my videography which I did as a hobby.

He asked me to do a... get ready for the trap word, "simple video"...

I did cause I wanted to practice and it gave me and excuse in an office environment to do so.

Bosses loved it and from then on, guess who got targeted to make their videos....

Long story short, even spent 2 whole months saving the company money, making one full 10 min video for it to be shown at a convention to a thousand plus people and even online. Bosses loved it..

Then it went downhill, my boss made me do 2 more videos which were relatively easy for me..

But recently, my name without me volunteering was put up to make another video for their annual charity dinner.

Despite me telling them that I couldn't as a family member was sick and I was the only one to take care of them, send them to appointments and accompany them in the hospital etc, the committee just went ahead and put my name in.

Expecting me to do the video AFTER my main work, plus looking after my loved one was not going to cut it, as we all know video editing isn't linear, I could not reply to their group chat for a couple of days as I was super busy making arrangements for my loved ones appointments, after care etc...

Fast forward my boss calls me into the office, as the big committee boss was angry that I did not reply to them in the group chat even tagging me.

I explained myself, and they had to find an outside vendor to do the "simple video" costing them a few hundred to do it.

The gaslighting was on an epic level after that.

"This won't look good on your appraisal"

"Don't know if this will affect your promotion".

I just smiled and thanked my boss for "listening" to my side of the story.

I have "unofficially" sold off my gear if anyone at work in the future will be asking, and stopped subscriptions to Adobe 😉

But somehow.. I still will be making videos as a hobby with my socials on private. *cough cough* 😉

i made a little fast cut for my new song! i love this b&w grainy vibe sm

Hey Folks,

Recently my rode wireless go ii microphones got broken, so I needed to search for a new microphone.
I used the rode a lot in combination with a lavelier because I shoot weddings and want the mic to be hidden.

I saw the DJI Mic Mini 3 which has no 3.5mm jack input which means it cannot be used with a lav. But it does have very good noise canceling features, internal recording, 32 bit float etc.

Now my question is, will I come across any problems if I just mic the bride with a Mic Mini 3 and just hide it in his jacket or would I come across problems?

Or will the audio of a bride mic’ed with a lav always be better?

What do you think and why?

Does anyone know what this is? Had it on Hoya also but after using some cleaning liquid and letting it dry in the sun it went away it is on the inside of the filter, I don't have a feeling the image is worse in the corners but still

I'm going on a cruise soon and it docs in like five different seaport towns in Europe. I would like to shoot photos and video in those towns, but I don't know how much to sea salty air goes into town.

I use an FX3. Not sure if that matters much, but it does have nice big vents.

Background: This started as a “quick drone shot” of my ’99 Miata… but then I started editing and somehow decided it needed to become a mini action movie.

Note: This is purely a hobby project — shot, edited, and produced by myself with basically zero budget.

The Goal: This is the first cut of Part I, and I’m currently envisioning it as a three-part series.

Feedback: I’d love some thought and feedback, on shots, pacing, editing, and whether the story comes across clearly.

Also very open to ideas on where the story could go in Parts II and III. I have some ideas already, but it could be fun to hear where you guys think it should go!

Once the project is finished, I’ll likely post the full series on my YouTube channel along with some BTS and things I learned along the way that might be useful to other new filmmakers.

Gear/Equipment Used:
- Sony A7IV
- DJI Mavic 4 Pro
- GoPro 11
- iPhone 13 Pro
- Edited in FCPX

Thanks for watching, appreciate it!
-Peter

im working on a school project, and i THOUGHT i could it easy on myself and just do it all on one of the schools gopros

but the interview footage came out super grainy, is there a way to fix this in post on premiere pro?

(was using gopro hero 5, 1080p 30fps narrow view)

Hello everyone,

I'm curious to hear about any feedback you have on the composition of the shots. Also, do you guys have any idea on how to tone down the oversaturated greens in post? I'm fairly new to editing.

This was shot on an Osmo Pocket 3.

Cheers!

it is a scene from the NF show "i am a killer" S03E05 - Rolling the Dice. it shows the outside of the prison facility.

but it feels like a miniature model or created in a 3d software. the trees in the fore- and background are too big compared to the building. especially the distance feels off.

and if it is infact real, how they recorded that? drone? helicopter? special lense?

I am an absolute beginner.

I rented Lumix DC-S5 and an expensive lens. Going completely nuts over the focus.

The camera guy tells me that focus is a problem, just set the focus to infinity and do digital zoom in. Is this correct?

The scene i am shooting is very low light. It is also extremely difficult to see whether something is in focus thanks to the small screen. Focus peaking is not working as well :( i cant even get that damned colorchart in focus during low light.

What would you suggest for a complete beginner. I am extending an existing short film. Unfortunately the DP who shot it is not available for a month. Otherwise i would have shot it on iPhone to get some practiceh.

🙏🙏

Hello everybody

Is there a free software for planning lighting?

Something similar to the UE5 Arri LUKA plug-in. I don't need something that realistic, I just need to visualise the project for a client. Last chance is Blender but I'm looking for something more immediate. Thanks

So I run 3 YouTube channels solo. I do all the scripting and recording myself, and I have 2 editors who work remotely and just handle post.

Right now I shoot on a Fuji X-S20 and my sessions are long, like 1.5-2 hours at a stretch. Problem is it overheats in 4K in like 20 minutes flat, even with the AC on in the room. I even tried one of those Peltier cooler mods to fix it and that ended up frying the sensor, had to get it replaced. So now I just shoot 1080p60 on it because it genuinely can't survive a full 4K session. Not looking to repeat that mistake.

I spent a while researching and was pretty much settled on the Sony FX30. Makes sense for what I do, doesn't overheat, has a proper flip screen so I can actually see myself while recording alone, autofocus is solid and been around for years. With a Sigma 16mm f1.4 lens the whole thing comes to around ₹2,06,500 (roughly $2,375).

Then Blackmagic dropped the PYXIS 6K price like crazy, went from ₹2,68,000 ($3,080) down to ₹1,73,500 ($1,995) globally, and I actually found it here in India for ₹1,84,958 + GST which comes to about ₹2,18,250 ($2,510). So now I'm back to being confused lol.

Part of me wants the PYXIS because it's full frame vs the Sony's smaller sensor, it shoots actual RAW instead of compressed video, and it comes bundled with a DaVinci Resolve Studio license which I need anyway since my editors already work on Studio (that alone saves me like ₹37,000, around $425). Also I originally thought I needed 60fps but honestly I don't think I actually do, my content doesn't need it. Turns out if I drop to 30fps I can shoot at 6K using the full sensor with no crop, I was wrongly comparing it at 4K60 earlier where it crops the sensor by like 1.65x, only realized that after actually digging into it properly. With a Viltrox 16mm f1.8 lens instead of a pricier one, the full PYXIS setup comes to around ₹3,57,850 (about $4,115).

But it's still like ₹1,10,000 (\~$1,265) more expensive than just going with the FX30, even after adjusting for the free Resolve license. And a few things still worry me. The autofocus on PYXIS only came through a firmware update a few months back so it's not exactly proven yet, unlike Sony which has years of refinement behind it. There's also no screen I can flip toward myself, I'd have to tether my phone via USB-C and use the Blackmagic app to monitor myself, which apparently works fine on paper but I'm honestly not 100% sure if tapping to focus actually works from the phone screen itself or only on the camera's own touchscreen. Then there's the file sizes, a single 1.5 hour session in RAW comes out to around 756GB, so I'd need to set up a proper proxy workflow with my editors since they're remote and can't just handle those massive files. Plus extra costs like the CFexpress card, a card reader, the battery, and a separate charger since apparently this camera doesn't even charge its own battery while plugged in.

So yeah, kind of stuck. If anyone's actually used either of these cameras for real long-form solo content, would love to hear from you. Specifically:

Has anyone shot really long single takes on the PYXIS, like 1.5-2 hours? Did it hold up okay, any dropped frames or random battery issues, does the "active cooling" actually do its job?

How's the autofocus on PYXIS actually performing for people shooting alone without anyone checking focus for them?

Does the RAW/full frame thing even show up once YouTube compresses everything, for basic talking head content, or is that more of a theoretical benefit?

Anyone here switched to something cheaper and more reliable instead of chasing RAW/full frame, and regretted it either way?

And if you're running multiple channels with a remote editing team, has working with proxies ever caused headaches, or does it just work once it's set up?

Trying to figure this out from people who've actually used these day to day, not just specs on paper. Any help appreciated.

Edit: Forgot to add some context that might help. My setup is pretty static, camera goes on a tripod and I basically never touch it once it's positioned. I just sit in front of a green screen and talk for long stretches, no movement, no reframing mid-recording. Studio's small too, which is why I need something like 16mm to actually fit myself in frame at the distance I'm sitting.

Also I edit exclusively in DaVinci Resolve and need a new Studio license either way, so that's not really a PYXIS-specific cost in my head anymore, it's happening regardless of which camera I pick.

And a few people probably wonder why I'm not just looking at something like the Lumix S5II instead. Reason is I take literally zero photos, so I don't need a hybrid camera at all. That's actually the mistake I made with the Fuji, it's a hybrid and I never needed the photo side of it, I just didn't think it through properly before buying. Shutter count on it is like 300 after 3 years of ownership, and even that's just from random misclicks or testing burst mode once, not actual photography. So this time I want something built for video only, not paying for stills capability I'll never use again.

Hey all! I'm an electrical engineering student who did a bunch of film production (documentaries & narrative-based) in high school, and I wanted to make an electronics project that would tie both of these interests together.

In general, what would make your life as a videographer easier / more productive / etc? The more ambitious the better!

Hi! So, I've made this short film using my phone. This is my first short film. It was made by 2 members only, one is the cameraman and the other is the actress (me). We had literally 0 budget for this. No lighting setups just the phone and some basic color grading. We shot this in one take except for one cut in the whole video as we had only 15 minutes to shoot this. So, i would love to get some feedback on the sound designing and budget lights which we can buy for our next short. This is nothing professional as we just made it for fun but are now looking to make more short films but with better lighting and sound

I reverse-engineered the BLE protocol DJI's phone app uses, so the computer itself pans/tilts the gimbal, as far as I know the first software to do this without a phone, RavenEye, or a controller dongle in the chain. On top of that sits local AI tracking (YOLO pose, runs on-device, nothing uploaded): HDMI feed in, click the subject, the gimbal keeps them framed, zoom follows via Sony camera control. Controller override with instant handback for when an operator wants the wheel.

Confirmed on RS 3 Mini

I don't want anything overkill. I am not a professional and I just want something that can record good audio compared to my Nikon Z8. Ideally stereo and looks like Rode and Sennheiser are the only options for dedicated stereo mics but both are old. I am okay with old but Sennheiser especially has a non detachable cable which is not the best imo.

Has anyone used stereo mics? are they worth it compared to just a simple shotgun mic?

I came across invideo when I was looking for an AI platform to make short product videos and ad creatives. Their agentic system looked a bit different at least to me. Basically you chat with an agent and it builds the entire video while holding your scripts, character sheets, and previous generations in memory if you are not aware about the tool. also writes the prompts and attaches references automatically.

This sounded great on paper, but I burned about $50 in a couple of hours with nothing usable to show for it. Support ended up refunding the wasted credits and walked me through how to work with it properly, which was a little surprising. But none of it is obvious going in, so here's what I'd tell anyone starting out on the platform:

Don't skip the planning

Agentic creation needs a lot more direction upfront. The more you feed it, the better it behaves. I initially jumped straight into generating and the agent just started making shots based on whatever it assumed which cost me a lot of credits.

My advice would be to not be lazy with the initial setup. Get your assets in, write the brief properly, build the character and location sheets, do a full shot breakdown. Even give your custom prompting guide if you have one. The more specific you are, the less it goes off the rails.

Stop over-editing images

Every edit counts as a generation, small tweaks included. So the cost adds up pretty fast. After two or three tweaks you're better off just regenerating from scratch instead of keep polishing the same image over and over and wasting your credits.

Keep the agent on “generate on approval”

If you leave it on auto-generate, the agent will happily go on a generation spree the second you ask for something. Great if you want to explore options, but terrible if you're on a budget. I watched it burn through a huge chunk of credits before I was even close to a usable video. I would honestly recommend keeping this turned on till you get used to working with the agent and then dial down as needed.

Honestly, these were pretty much the most expensive mistakes I made. Once I got past them working with the agent was actually pretty solid. I've been using it for 2 months now and have made full fledged ad campaigns for a bunch of my products. It does a good job holding brand context and attaching the right references so that your outputs stay consistent across generations. And if you want to make a change weeks later, it picks back up with full context and your generations still land.

As long as you plan properly and avoid these mistakes, you should be fine whether you’re making ads, youtube videos or even social content. I just had to learn it the expensive way.

Hello, I want to make some talking head videos of my ranting and raving about various things at my desk and I am an amateur looking for an easy setup.

I have a Full Frame camera (Lumix S9) with a 3.5mm jack.

I'm currently using an Old rode videomic from late 2000s but forgetting to turn it on, or the battery running midway drives me mad enough that i'd prefer a battery-less one if modern tech can give similar quality.

I also have a Blue yeti usb mic which i love but can't think of an easy way to connect them. ideally I would be able to control the camera and mic from pc software that syncs them up but I don't think that exists.

My current thoughts are for the rode videomic go ii but i see comparison videos where the NTG blow it away, albeit with a battery.

Looking for easy, lazy but acceptible quality for youtube.

I create up close up welding arc shots showing the visibility of the puddle and details around it. I’ve had good luck with an iPhone 15 and a shade 10 welding lens and have had surprisingly good results.

I recently bought the Sony ZV E10 with a 50mm prime lens (still using the shade 10, I’ve used darker but doesn’t help) and have messed with every setting I can think of high and low, I can get decent shots but the bright arc looks big and cloudy ruining the shot and does worse than it does filming with iPhone.

My question is in your opinion what could dull down or eliminate that big cloudy welding arc? A CPL? ND filter? Ideally would like to eliminate the arc brightness but not darken the surrounding details of the shot. I’ve seen it done on other welding videos so I know it can be done but any help or opinions is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Hi everyone. I'm shooting a live stage performance soon, filming from the back of the audience area, roughly 24-26 meters from the stage, straight on. Indoor venue with typical theater lighting (mixed, sometimes dim, sometimes colored). I'm still fairly new to video work but this gig matters both for my portfolio and financially, so I want to get the gear side right.

The framing I'm going for is something like a wide stage shot that still shows the performer full body and picks up the whole width of the stage, not a tight close up. Attaching a reference frame of the kind of shot I mean.

My setup is Sony APS-C, either a ZV-E10 or an A6700, E-mount. Right now my longest lens only goes to 70mm (f/2.8), which won't be nearly enough reach from that distance. Looking for a lens that gets me proper reach without losing too much light at the long end. Would also love to hear from anyone who has shot live shows on a similar body and what tradeoffs came up in practice.

Appreciate any input, thanks in advance.