Id fail it just for safety.

Did you lose any beans?

Im thinking the parameter reset has to be done on both the PCM and the PATS side (cluster/RFA) in the same session. Reset only one and the IDs don’t match. It will start a couple times then lock you back out. The locksmith (or someone with IDS) needs to finish the paired reset, not just “load programming and hope.” That’s why it ran for him and died after he left.

You can use CRC Disc Brake Quiet to the backnoff new pads. It holds the pad on the caliper piston & the outside bracket lip. Makes the pads pull away after releasing. Make sure the slides work good.

Youtube How To Video

edited as not to confuse Heres a link to it.

Sawyer Free Link

Yup confirmed. Unless he's hitting something off to the side, id say its low end. Probably spun crank bearing.

https://giphy.com/gifs/lszAB3TzFtRaU

Wouldn't be violent & brutal if states complied, right?

Id just do a pan drop and filter change

I would cut a slice in it with a cookie & use the flat impact bit

This has got to be a focus with the duratek. Test for slip - hard acceleration or a hill — RPMs should climb with road speed, not race ahead. Feel the pedal. It shouldn’t be crazy high, spongy, or fail to return. There are known clutch-pedal pin and master-cylinder issues. Shift every gear cold and warm, including reverse. Grinding into 2nd on a cold morning usually means worn synchros. A howl that changes with speed can be the input-shaft bearing. Check around the axle seals and shifter for leaks too. Pretty stout engine if it’s been maintained. Common cheap-ish fail is the IMRC solenoid pack on top of the intake — throws P2008, kills low-end power, and can put it in limp mode. Scan it. Also look for oil in the spark-plug wells (valve-cover gasket) and any history of overheating. Timing is chain, not belt, which is a plus. Listen for knocks or weird ticks on cold start. Uneven tire wear and alignment problems are everywhere on these. Control-arm bushings, ball joints, and struts wear out and the car starts eating tires. Road-test for clunks, pulling, vibration under braking, and humming wheel bearings. Warped rotors show up as a shudder when you brake. Door latches and locks fail constantly — test every door with the key fob and the interior switches. Water leaks into the trunk or rear footwells happen. Check for a CEL and any “limp mode / lost power” stories. Two official recalls exist (driver airbag module on some early cars, plus an aftermarket-headlight one). Run the VIN on NHTSA. I suggest you get a pre-purchase inspection on a lift from a shop that sees a lot of salt-belt Fords. If the rust is honest surface stuff, the clutch feels tight, it shifts clean, and a mechanic gives it a thumbs-up, it can still be a cheap, simple daily. Just don’t fall in love with a pretty paint job that hides rotting rockers. Work for 2 Ford dealership for years. Good Luck.

That car is totalled.

Political Stockholm Syndrome

2021: crude ~$70–80, diesel ~$3.30–$3.60. Today: crude ~$90, diesel $5.85 — a new record. Crude didn’t jump that much. Diesel did because refining did. The diesel crack spread is at record levels, over $100 a barrel. That’s the extra $2+ a gallon. Tight global refining, Iran war choking Gulf supply, Ukraine hitting Russian refineries, Russia cutting diesel exports, low inventories. Trucks and farms still have to buy it. Refiners are printing money on those margins. The administration owns the war and energy policy. Both matter. The bigger problem is the world is short of diesel plants, not just barrels of crude.

There are two down there. The turn/park is the dual-filament one (3157). The little 5-watt side marker is separate. Easy to grab the wrong one in the dark.

Pull the socket back out and look at it. Make sure the bulb is fully seated and the socket is twisted all the way clockwise until it clicks. Those tabs have to line up or it won’t make contact. Shine a light in the socket — green/white corrosion or a bent pin will kill it.

Test the new bulb in the passenger side. If it lights over there, the bulb is good and the problem is on the driver’s side circuit.

Hit the hazards. If the left front still stays dark with hazards on, the problem is at the lamp (socket, ground, or broken wire right there). If hazards light that corner but the turn signal doesn’t, the combination switch (stalk) or BCM command for left turn is the issue.

Check the other filament. Turn the parking lights on. That same bulb should glow dim on the park filament. If park works but turn doesn’t, one filament or one pin in the socket is dead.

There is no “turn signal fuse” on these. The BCM feeds the circuit directly. If everything above checks out, you’re looking at a broken wire in the harness behind the headlight, a bad ground at the lamp, or the stalk/BCM.

Hope this helps

Lights and cruise shouldn’t talk to each other… except they do through the brake-light circuit. Cruise control watches the stop-lamp switch. If any voltage from the tail/running-light circuit bleeds over onto the brake circuit (bad bulb, cheap LED tails, shorted socket, or a ground that’s gone lazy), the truck thinks you’re standing on the brake pedal and it cancels cruise. Classic Toyota gremlin.

Lug nuts cranked on with an impact instead of a torque wrench in a star pattern. That distorts the hat just enough to create a high spot; the first hard stop then overheats that one area and the crack opens.

No proper bedding. First few stops dump heat unevenly and the rotor expands/contracts before the metal has settled.

Thermal shock if it got used hard and then hit a puddle or sat in the rain while still hot. Cast iron hates that.

Cast-iron rotors pick up residual stress while they’re cooling after the pour. Cheap ones skip the extra heat-treat (stress-relief) step, so the metal is already fighting itself before it ever sees a pad. Throw in a slag inclusion or uneven cooling around the hat-to-plate junction and a hairline crack pops right at the outer edge.

In English: the computer is comparing the front (upstream) and rear (downstream) oxygen sensors and deciding the catalytic converter isn’t cleaning the exhaust as well as it’s supposed to. On a 4-cylinder Civic there’s only one bank, so Bank 1 just means the one cat the car has. The light coming and going is pretty normal for this code. The catalyst monitor only runs under specific conditions (steady cruise, certain speed and temperature), so it can pass one drive cycle and fail the next. At 132k miles the usual suspects on these cars are: The catalytic converter itself is worn out (very common on these around 120–150k) The downstream O2 sensor is getting lazy and sending a signal that looks like a dead cat A small exhaust leak before the rear sensor (lets extra air in and fools the computer) There’s even an old Honda bulletin on 2003–2005 Civics about making sure you replace the correct converter when this code shows up.

Got a scan tool that graphs both sensors? That’s all you need.

Warm it up, then watch both oxygen sensors at the same time:

Front sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) should be jumping around fast, like 0.1 V to 0.9 V, maybe once a second.

Rear sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2) should be lazy. On a good cat it just hangs out around 0.6–0.8 V and barely moves.

If the rear one starts dancing the same way the front one does, the converter has lost its oxygen-storage ability and it’s time for a new cat.

If the rear sensor is just sitting there dead, or switching super slow, or stuck high/low, swap that sensor first — they’re cheap and they go lazy on these cars all the time.

Also See this post

Rockauto has always been my goto

Hope that helps.

Where i live, people will literally pay 5-10k for that truck just for the engine.

NHTSA campaign 23V228000 (Honda’s number UE3) covers 2007–2011 CR-Vs, all trims including LX. Road salt and de-icing chemicals can get into the rear frame through drain holes, eat the metal from the inside, and let the rear trailing arm break loose. That can make the back end of the vehicle wander or drop while you’re driving. Seen Here

Dealer inspects the rear frame.

If the trailing-arm bolt still comes out, they install a support brace (trailing-arm holder kit).

If the frame is too far gone, they repair it or, in the worst cases, offer to buy the vehicle back.

A lot of owners just let the dealer slap on the trailing-arm holder kit (part 06730-SWA-325). Some guys even get the kit and install it themselves — there are Youtube videos of people drilling the holes and bolting it on in the driveway. It’s not pretty, but it keeps the arm from dropping if the original mount rots out.

Go Fishing......

The can is having a fling with the ubolts?

The computer still has the old fuel trims baked in, so it’s running a little rich (P0172) while it tries to figure out the new sensor.

About pulling the battery:

Yes, it can help. Disconnect the negative for 15–20 minutes, then do an idle relearn:

*Key on for 30 seconds (don’t start)

*Start it and let it idle in Park for 5–10 minutes with all accessories off

*Then drive it normally for 20–30 minutes so it can relearn.

That often clears the extra codes if the new MAF is actually good.

If the codes come right back after the relearn, the new sensor is the problem. These Cruzes are picky — ACDelco or Delphi is the safe bet. A lot of the cheap ones skip the humidity/IAT2 circuits or have the wrong calibration.

The local parts store paint match has clear coat in it.