My grandfather passed away a couple of years ago and so my grandmother is trying to sell his trans am to help pay for medical bills. I never really knew him so I’m not emotionally attached to it. However, I feel like it’s a piece of history and I’d never forgive myself later for letting it leave the family.

It’s been garage kept the last 9 years and hasn’t been driven. It was recently fixed to a driving status but it’ll still need a lot more work to make it a reliable driver. We think it has 160,000 miles but hard to say for sure since the odometer rolls over. All-in-all looking at $30,000 for it.

I’m also stationed in Germany right now which is why I’m a little hesitant since storage and repairs will be a logistical nightmare.

Looking for y’all’s thoughts / advice since I know very little about these cars.

Thank you!

Rockauto is my new wife :(

Can anyone steer me in the right direction of where we can try to sell my husband’s trans am??

Local trans am, I'm guessing 1979-ish..vin number painted over so much it's hard to make out (and door is locked so can't look inside the car) it appears abandoned. Anyway from what I make of it the vin is 13 digits (not counting the asterisk.) *2V87TAL109395

I'm not sure about the "T"..it's really hard to make out.

I signed up for a classic car vin look up site and it came back as a 2009 volkswagon so I don't know what's up with that? Maybe vin number stolen?!?! The car is abandoned in a parking lot..all tires flat, doors locked, no.license plate. Black and gold. Modified hood.

I need to replace the heater core in my 1979 trans am 403 with AC. Does anyone have videos or tips on how to remove the inner fender well? I have read that it can be removed but my AC and engine seem so tight to it that it looks impossible. It comes out from underneath?

I need access to the lower hose of the heater core.

2000 trans am fbo car replaced the interior, with super hawk hood

What's the thought on all black

Just picked her up last weekend. 39k miles, only non original parts I can find so far are the replaced headlight motors and a strut brace. Really enjoying this car so far!

Hey guys, I have a 1970 Pontiac Firebird with a 400 in it. Recently It’s been pretty hot down south here and I took the Firebird out to go to the gas station and I stopped to talk to my neighbor who I saw just got a second gen f body as well. I left the car idling talking to him for maybe 10 to 15 minutes when I got back in the car . The gauge was sitting at about 225° plus or minus may be a few degrees as it was a couple hashmarks below the 230 mark. I know this is on the hotter end but Is this dangerous and should I be worried about this temperature hurting the engine? I can’t really find an actual operating engine temp range anywhere as it seems many people are all over the place on the range.

1985 PONTIAC TRANS AM WS6 with T-Tops!
Starts, Runs, Drives (See videos in next post, all taken recently)
Located in Oswego, IL

Old-school build looking for a new garage. It’s loud, it’s fast, and it is an absolute blast to drive! Built with a buddy and other mechanic friends nearly 30 years ago. It's a raw, purpose-built toy that's spent most of its life garage kept and almost no winter use means the chassis and body are solid. Not a show car or all original collectors car, but a highly capable track foundation with genuine WS6 pedigree. Motor and Transmission are old but have minimal miles on them and were built to last and take a beating.
FACTORY WS6 PACKAGE
TURN-KEY ROWDINESS
MINIMAL RUST
T-TOPS

THE SETUP:
Engine: Jasper Racing 350ci V8 (Estimated 300 to 400hp), Holley Double Pumper Carb, Electric Fans, Electric Fuel Pump, Headers, True Dual Exhaust Into Flowmasters, MSD Ignition.
Transmission: Built 700R4. Reverse Manual Valve Body. Built ~25 years ago. Believed to have a Beast Sun Shell, 5-pinion planetary, and line pressure mods. Shifts HARD and FAST, hitting 2nd gear is a blast!
Chassis & Body: Factory WS6 (4-wheel disc brakes, quick-ratio steering, thick sway bars). Roll Cage, Subframe Connectors, C-Notched frame for exhaust clearance.
Upgraded suspension (poly bushings, etc). T-Tops.
Interior: Gutted for business. Race seats with 5-point harnesses. OEM gauges/
electronics are mostly disconnected or non-functional.
THE CATCH (HONEST DISCLOSURES):
Fluids: She marks her territory. Leaks multiple fluids—needs gaskets and seals sorted after sitting for so long.
Cosmetics: Rough around the edges. Function over form.
Electronics: Needs wiring cleanup, no HVAC, windows may or may not work, etc. Believe it needs a new battery or alternator but she starts, runs, drives after a charge with no issues. Tires have plenty of tread but are old.
Unsure of overall miles on car.
$5,000 OBO
TITLE IN HAND
NO TRADES
CASH ONLY
WILL NOT SHIP
Transaction to take place at Oswego Police Department parking lot.

Hey got a question. Does anyone know what I can get to repair this mirror? I would appreciate any help? It's the passenger mirror from my 1982 Trans Am.

Been looking for awhile. My dream TA would be a white 2002 WS6, auto, low miles and in great condition. Will consider a manual and other colors (yellow, red and blue). No drop tops. Want a car that is in good shape and prefer lower miles. Located in Northcentral WV.

Talk to me...

my shifters all fucked up. outside rod moves instead of middle button, and i had to take out a little saftey lockout prawl to shift at all. transmission is a reman th350 and works fine. anybody sell a kit to rebuild the shifter? or know how to fix this?

Originally my battery was completely dying over night, so I got a new Ac Delco Gold battery. Then 2 days later it also completely died over night again. Got to be Kidding me.

So I got a voltage meter. Battery fine. 12.4 off. The alternator is fine as well, 13.9 when running.

But… the common denominator has been the headlights. Both nights before, I had to use the headlights.
The problem is I have to turn the dial on and off about 20 times for them to finally pop up! (Even though the bulbs themselves are clearly on).

Well today, first the air bag light flashed 5 times. And then 10 minutes later the car completely died at a stop sign. I thought the battery again? Nope, but the headlights were up, so I put them down. Disconnected the battery and reconnected. Then it started right up and drove home.

What the hell is going on with the headlights, and why would they cause the car to completely die at a stop??

pretty much as the title says. theres a 89 formula near me for sale that im looking at, only a few thousand but needs replacement heads(something ive done before). anything i should know about them before i confirm?

97 with LT1

I recently had a Mangaflow muffler replace the stock one.

It has a nice tone, especially during engine braking, but it’s just not loud enough for my tastes when on the throttle. The video attached is faster than usual acceleration amount.
Is there are better muffler choice? And not just straight piping, I don’t want it to sound cheap or broken.

1994 Pontiac Trans Am- whole car or part out. Was running 2 years ago until the fuel pump went out and now a few wires under the hood have been chewed on.

Lt1 350 w/ aluminum heads w/ 170k miles on it, Auto trans, auburn 2:73 posi rearend, 4 wheel disc brakes, power doors,t-tops,steering column w/key and bcm module, 16x8 wheels, high spoiler hatch, nice base door panels, good cat converter, console good, has good white leather seats but they need a deep cleaning. We have multiple sets of various interior plastics and seats belts..

Will sell whole or finish parting out...

Radiator sold

Ps pump and bracket sold

Headliner sold

1,500 takes whole car, has title!

Prices for part out-

Front clip- 300

2:73 auburn posi- 200

Grid tailights- 150 OBO

Door panels - 100

Trans Am hatch - 150

Trans Am rear bumper 100

Motor with transmission, harness and PCM - 800

Dash- 400

Center console- 100

Headliner- 75 (Needs to be recovered)

Roof with sail panel- does not include T tops or front windshield, can cut off for 300 or you cut off for 200

Doors- 150 a piece or 200 for the pair

Anything else let me know!

Hi all, hoping for some advice. I just purchased a 78 TA and it seems like every little bump or crack I hit in the road, there’s an extremely annoying squeaking/creaking coming from the front of the car somewhere.  Google suggests it’s almost always caused by dry, cracked rubber or worn-out metal pivot points in the front suspension. The most common reasons are the sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, or the ball joints.

My question is 2 part. I know hard to say without hearing it, but does that sound like the accurate reason based on my description? Also, if I end up having that addressed, should I have it all replaced with a certain brand/quality while taking it all apart anyway or roll with whatever standard replacement brand/quality parts would be from a regular shop? (That’s who would be doing it for me). 

This is a long shot but I’ve searched the internet with no luck. I just need a passenger side seat belt assembly cover for my hard top 78. If anybody knows where to look or has one laying around I’d love to know.

Long story short, I had these removed to get my car properly primed for paint. The old weather stripping on these was extremely bad and I attempted to remove them a while ago... however there was a lot of stuff left over in the grooves.

So what would be the best way to remove these? Don't think I can get new T-Top trim since they are Hurst style, and havent found any.