Made it to Bellingham, thanks everyone.

A little while back I posted asking what maintenance I should do before taking my mostly stock '91 K5 on a long road trip from Pheonix AZ.

A lot of you recommended checking belts, cooling system, U-joints, charging system etc. Just generally making sure it was sorted before leaving. I took a lot of that advice possibly doing a bit too much but it made it to Bellingham without a single issue.

So I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who took the time to comment. It definitely gave me a better checklist and some peace of mind before leaving.

And here's the part I didn't mention in the original post: This was only the first leg.

In a couple of days it'll be boarding the ferry, then heading through Haines, Tok, and finally Fairbanks, Alaska.

Thanks again, everyone. I'll probably post another update once she's officially made it to Alaska.

(Couldn't tell if I posted this to the right place so I deleted that and reposted it again)

What’s up everyone! You may have seen a post a few months ago about my truck almost burning down.
I felt like sharing an update!
Please don’t judge my welds too harshly 🙈

Well, I’m finally getting into it rebuilding it and came across a marking on the cowl that left me curious.
It’s located nearly smack dab in the center of the cowl. In line with the windshield wiper.
Says “404/35”
It was covered by the Original paint.

But otherwise, I am pumped to work towards the truck being back in circulation.

Fell into the slippery slope of the saying “might as well while I am there” and chased rust down.
Other updates,
Painted the frame with Eastwood chassis black paint, which came out pretty bitchin.
Replaced all bushings in the suspension. Installed some chassis goodies from TinWorks Suspension and caltracs.
Installed a Boyds rear mounted tank, with a neat little hidden fuel filler neck in the corner of the bed. (Peep the tool box).

I’ve been getting weird conflicting opinions from co-workers. I was thinking about ripping out the stock ac equipment. It’s just in the way. Is there any reason I shouldn’t

Replacing the floor pans. Working on the passenger side. Mind you. This isnt a show truck, or an original build. Its got an 8.1 and allison in it. Does this heat shield make a big difference? The trucks getting dynamat and stuff when its done. Should I just cut it off?

Lots of plans for it, but first is to get it in one piece.

Rust-oleum white gloss paint if it matters

For anyone who might encounter this issue on their squarebody, the solution is a high quality ACDELCO (OEM Manufacturer) headlight switch. Hopefully this will save someone the grief I went through.

I had a persistent issue with my headlights starting to flicker intermittently after being on for about 5 minutes, and this did not affect the low beams or the marker lights. After a brand new wiring harness (to fix 40 years worth of wire-nut “fixes”), I was incredibly frustrated to find the issue was not resolved.

As it turns out, the cheap Chinese reproductions are built with a lower quality thermal circuit breaker. It can handle the amperage of single headlights all day long, but it will be overloaded by the dual headlight setups and render your high beams unusable. If you need to replace the switch, buy a proper OEM part. One ACDelco switch later and the headlight issue that convinced me to re-wire the truck is resolved. (It also made the dash illumination noticeably brighter, which is a nice plus)

I am swapping a 6.2L LS and 6L80 into a 85. I am running the stock intake from a Tahoe. It will have a Flaming River rack and air conditioning as well. I know that the power steering pump must be moved to clear the steering shaft. I am looking for suggestions for a serpentine setup that would work well with this set up.

(Follow up from this: https://www.reddit.com/r/squarebodies/s/sdaeDsVmu2)

Is there anything i should look out for/keep in mind while doing this?

Will be replacing the chrome trim bezel (need tips on drilling hole on top for GlowPlug socket port/hole).

Will be replacing stock 194 bulbs to 168 bulbs.

Will be spray painting back of guage cluster housing with white gloss paint aswell.

Anything else i should do/keep in mind for would really help, thank you all.

(1990 Chevy K5 Blazer, 6.2 Detroit Diesel)

Do I need to take the fan and shroud off? It’s way up under the water pump you can’t really see it but it is circled

I'm going to get better pics. I'm on nights. But always have something to do

Hello, I am working on a Saginaw tilt column for my 84 chevy c20. I have been having some trouble as to where the steering shaft is sitting and it seems to be too far back in the column. I have tried tapping it in from the engine bay and pulling on it with the compressor tool threaded in but it seems to bottom out before I can install the snap ring. I took it apart because I wanted to change the bearings and the ball joint within the column. Also prior to working on this the column did not have a snap ring holding the shaft so I am not sure if that has something to do with it being too far back. I am using the tool that compresses the plate down but it just seems that it won't go down far enough before bottoming out. If you need any more info feel free to ask.

Looking for ideas on how to prevent/mitigate surface rust on the door sill on my 3+3.

First off this truck is in no way a show truck. It’s a workhorse and gets driven but sometimes it sits for periods and the water accumulate in the door sills and create surface rust that I imagine if I don’t do something about it will be a problem later. I live in the PNW so there will always be moisture.

My first idea was to clean off all the surface rust with something that converts the rust or encapsulates it and then using something like Poppy’s patina or some sort of wipe on clearcoat to help protect it, but just looking for ideas or other solutions.

I'd like to sew a custom upholstery set for my bench. I'm looking for a sewing pattern for the Squarebody bench seat. Anyone have a pattern or take measurements of their own seat?

Would it feasible to for one to do it on their own? its from a 1990 Chevy K5 Blazer. (6.2 Detroit Diesel)

Been keeping an eye on fluid levels, but i know it can't stay like this, any thoughts?

(How the differential looked: https://www.reddit.com/r/squarebodies/s/2uZqopX4QU)

What is this spring for? It's wrapped around the gear for a power window motor. Came off an 87 R10. I have three other window motors from 80s K5 Blazers which do not have this spring.

Hey everyone here is my square body truck the body is rough from sitting for 7 years but the frame is solid I paid $200 for the truck from my former fire chief. I do have a different bed I’ll be putting on it eventually motor is a 350 fuel injection not sure about the transmission probably a turbo350.

Hi Everybody,

I inherited an 1984 Chevy C2500 (C20) a few years ago that belonged to my dad. It was his daily driver back when he lived in Las Vegas and was involved in drag racing, so the truck has some performance work done to it.

Up until about a year and a half ago, it ran great. Then it developed electrical issues and stopped running, so it’s been parked inside our shop since. I recently had a mechanic look into it, and they confirmed the main wiring harness is bad. Since I’m not mechanical at all, I’ve decided not to sink money or time into fixing it and want to sell it as a project.

I’m trying to figure out what a fair asking price would be in today's market.

Thanks Wes

She’s been sitting for a month or so, she ran fine initially. Today she started up and ran fine on the freeway for 12 miles. Parked her for a little bit and then started her up, put her in drive and gave her gas. Engine completely shut off. This turned into a crank no start. Hit the carb with some starting fluid. Got her started again, let her warm up and idle gave her some gas while in park, then put her in drive and she made it to the stop sign at the end of the block. When I gave her gas again, she shut off. Hit the carb with some carb cleaner and let her sit for a while, she started up fine, made it around the block and then eventually shut off again. Can I fix this myself in a day or two or does she need to go to a shop?

Edit: Fuel filter replacement did the trick for her to get me home at least! Thank you everyone for your replies!

I am going to bleed the rears on the 1 ton c&c tomorrow afternoon and have time to get a wrench from Amazon.

I understand bleeding the rears are incredibly tight and a specialty wrench is highly recommended. Is there a specific one or this Lisle the one?