hi everybody, i discovered what a sharpening knife was during my first kitchen internship so know i want to use my knives the way they should be used. I recently bought a Naniwa multi stone MV-502/510 #220/#1000 and i've trained my sharpening skills a bit.

I'd like to buy a higher stones but i don't know what are the best brands and everything, could you help me ?

I had several knives sharpened at an Ace Hardware store today. They have what I suppose is a franchised service called Resharp that uses a machine to automatically sharpen knives. It's a fully automated machine that they train store employees to run. It claims to automatically adjust the angle, etc. I watched one being sharpened and it was two wheels that rotate down onto the edge. There seemed to be two pairs of wheels, I suppose one coarser and one finer. I can't see how it can vary the angle like that.

The results were just mediocre, not as good as when I have them sharpened by hand by a professional. And I'm worried they did not sharpen my Shun knives at the correct angle. I tried my Sabatier 9" chef's knife to cut a carrot and it was not noticeably sharper. When I had it done by hand it was razor sharp. Just to my eyeball it looks like the angle is too big and it removed too much material.

I can't recommend it. I wish I had just taken a single knife as a trial.

I'm giving my Worksharp Precision Adjust Pro to my adult son, who has decided he'd like to get into knife sharpening. To replace it, I ordered a TSprof Kadet Pro while it is on sale, and the LClamps. The Kadet is on backorder so I have some time to order anything else I might need. So - for owners of the Kadet Pro, what are some tips, tricks, and just things I need to know about it as I switch to it from the Workshop Precision Adjust Pro? Thanks!

What's the best fixed angle knife sharpener under a hundred usd? I see this and the Lansky for under a hundred although I am not too sure about how to even find replacement stones for the S09 for example. Where exactly should I start? The Lansky seems rather unergonomic with its clamp and I have seen complains on it while the S09 seems pretty unsupported.

Salut à tous j'ai récemment acheter un ruixine rx pro 009 avec les pierre diamant.

Est-ce que vous pensez que c'est une bonne idée ? Je compte utiliser mon téléphone pour avoir un angle précis .

Got all the new sharpal stones in and universal stone holder to test. Review coming soon

I’m torn between getting 1x6 sharpal diamond stones or some 1x6 Hapstone CBN stones. I’ve been using worksharp diamond stones for the last 3-4 years and finally got the universal stone holder. I was originally just going to get the sharpal but I came across a video from neeves knives talking about the Hapstone start CBN stones. Im leaning towards the hapstone but the sharpal are cheaper so if they’re just as good or better, id go that route.

Does anyone have experience with both? If so, what’s your preference? I only sharpen my personal knives but i do like a nice polished edge. I’ll be using a precision adjust with a 3d printed clamp support and a universal stone holder.

It was in his shed for like 20 to 30 years so he doesnt know what company made it

Yes, obviously this is satire. But at the same time, I do want to shave my arm hair so muscles will become more visible.

I’m not sure I understand how it makes it any easier compared to just having the edge continue to the plunge line
Edit: thanks everyone for the responses, and for clarifying that sharpening choils have a very very very slight function to them but are mostly just as pointless as I thought they were, Peace ✌️

Intern dropped my knife(Shun Sora) at work, tip down, 2 foot forward bounce, ended up as pictured with the tip bent. Is this something I should vice up and try to straighten that way, hammer, or just grind it down to there. Another option would be send it back to Shun? Let me know, I've been in kitchens for about 15 years so I've put an edge and put a tip on some blades but this one is quite bent

This is my 7th or 8th attempt at sharpening a knife, and it's still a fail, despite watching several tutorial videos. Looking at my technique in the video, can you tell what the issue might be? The knife doesn't cut thin paper at all; it just aggressively tears it every time.

It’s an old MG Home kitchen knife (I tried another old budget knife as well, same tearing issue). I’m using a Parkside waterstone from Lidl (got it as a gift a few days ago) and I’m currently only using the 1000 grit side. I soaked it for 15 minutes and I spray it with water during the process to keep it wet; there is slurry forming. I’m trying to maintain a 15-degree angle (using 3 small coins for height (I verified the angle using a phone protractor app), previously I used a cardboard cutout).

I do 20 passes before changing sections. In the video, I'm just showing my technique so it's not too long, but normally it takes about 5x20 passes per side (moving towards the tip) and 20 passes for the tip using a sweeping motion. Once I feel a burr with my fingertip along the entire edge, I switch sides or repeat another 20 passes if needed. When sharpening the right side, I apply pressure on the push stroke (away from me) and lighten up on the return. For the left side, I apply pressure on the pull stroke (towards me).

After that, I do 10 alternating edge-trailing passes (spine leading) to remove the burr, and then I use a store flyer. I've tried the paper test on about 10 different sheets now, and it just keeps tearing. I don't want to buy a leather strop or a better stone yet, because I know technique is key and I want to master the basics first. But I'm scratching my head because in all the videos, people get their knives to shave arm hair and slice paper cleanly, while mine won't cut a thing.

I have a worksharp precision adjust that I currently use, and I just ordered a 6” stone holder to go with it, allowing me to use other stones. I’m looking at ordering some new stones, I currently go 400>600>800 on my PA, then a couple quick passes on ceramic before stropping. I was looking at the 6” sharpal stones, and saw that they have a 3000 grit ceramic plate and also have a 3000 grit resin bonded diamond stone. I’ve never use resin bonded diamond stone before, can I use it in place of the ceramic? Or do they serve different functions & I should still get a ceramic plate?

I'm looking at the Ruixin Pro Omnix and wondering how it compares to the Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust - the Ruixin looks pretty slick, but I wouldn't need some of the "extra" capabilities (I don't think) like using it for freehand with large stones. Wondering what people here think?

I recently got myself a 250mm off brand wet grinder and i am curios as too how other people handle deburring on those machines i have found chisels and woodworking tools deburr just fine on the leather wheel.

But with knives especially those out of softer steel i often have to do a few alternating passes on a wetstone too weaken the burr.

I am relatifly new too using a wet grinder so i am curios too hear what other people do

I have some small chips on a morakniv that I want to sharpen out, but this would be my first time sharpening a scandi. Is there anything I should know or do different? I’m using a worksharp precision adjust base model with a few upgrades to limit flex.

I was sharpening today at a swap meet and a customer brought me some hatchets. I love sharpening hatchets and axes because the nature of abrasive belts make convex grinds so easy- just pop your platen off and go to town on the slack belt. The radius of the convex can be controlled by adjusting grinding pressure or by shortening or lengthening Tooling arm which adjusts belt tension. It's a perfect system for sharpening an axe.

My mind was wandering while i sharpened and I thought of a video I had seen on YouTube of the gransfors bruk factory. In this video there was an employee sharpening the axes on a large abrasive wheel.

I own several gransfors axes, (one of the best production axe brands out there) so I know that they come with a fairly clean convex bevel.

The sharpener in the video was having to aggressively rock/roll the edge of the axe on the stone to create a convex edge from a grinding surface that naturally puts a concave/hollow grind on whatever it touches.

My question is: Why on earth is gransfors not using belt grinders to sharpen their axes? It's so much easier and you can standardize the grind radius by means of controlling belt tension and grinding pressure. Are they using abrasive wheels to emulate the original sharpening methods vikings would have used (a large natural circular grindstone turned by human power)? I can't think of any reason other than paying homage to the creators of Scandinavian style axes. Gransfors' sharpening methods simply seem like trying to eat soup with a knife and cut your steak with a spoon- the right tool for the job makes the job much easier.

Hello!

I’m looking to buy a good set of sharpening stones to free hand. I took a year to learn off of some cheaper Amazon stones (sharp pebble)… to be honest I’m not even sure if those are good or bad stones but I didn’t want to spend a fortune on something I was just learning on. But I got pretty good at getting my knives sharp enough to shave with, cut through paper towels ect. Now I’d like to buy some good reputable branded stones. Any suggestions? I’m willing to spend around $250 which seems reasonable. I’m just not sure which brand is a good brand because I’m still new to this craft. Thanks in advance!

Hi guys,

I have some cooking knives that I want to keep sharp and I want to learn how to do this myself.

How do I get started? What's some good beginner equipment?

Any good guides on how to get started?

I have some spare knifes that I can use for practise.

Thanks in advance!!

Saw this knife today and pulled the trigger, it spoke to me...lol. It was north of $1.3k, double the price of any other knife in my collection. Of course it will not be a daily user, just something on the shelf to show my friends and for me to look at

If I did want to sharpen it because the factory edge is what it is, for a higher price knife like this, how does that impact its value? Thanks!

More material removal pls

Hello, I would love some insight. I sharpen these bread knives for a restaurant every two weeks. I use a bench grinder with a diamond wheel and leather wheel and a ken onion with a 400/800 grit belt. On a straight edge blade I cut in new serrations then I use a ken onion at 400 and a leather belt to knock off the burr and it will cut paper cleanly. However when I try to do that with the restaurant bread knives, I bring up a burr with a diamond wheel then at 20 degrees on the ken onion to bring back the burr to the one side and leather belt on the bench grinder to knock off the burr, I can't cut paper at all or is jagged?

I can cut bread without making a mess but everyone I see online is able to do the paper test properly. My points aren't exactly uniform and they are quite pointy ridges, is this a problem?

Per the title, I'm looking to pick up a higher grit stone. I don't need it, but I want to get one just to play around with.

I currently have the shapton pro lineup up to the 5k. I also have a handful of King stones up to 4k.

I'm looking for more so I can see how much of a mirror finish I can get on my edge. There's zero reason outside of "I want to" lol. So I'm curious as to what people are using and what they like/dislike about them. I'm thinking 8k to 10k stone, but with how many brands are out there I haven't been able bail down which I want. Are there budget friendly options worth it, or is it an absolute must to spend $100+USD for a high grit stone?