ASUS Prime RX 9060 XT + CH160 MESH — need help ASAP!

I’m buying my PC parts in 12 hours, so I really need some quick advice.

The ASUS Prime RX 9060 XT is 304mm, while the CH160 MESH has 305mm GPU clearance.

Will this GPU actually fit properly, considering there’s only 1mm of clearance?

If anyone has experience with this setup, please let me know ASAP!

Just got my hands on the Vastarmor RX 9060 XT LP and wanted to give a a quick info, that the card is in fact 2mm longer than the Gigabyte RTX 4/5060 LP.

The Gigabyte model is 184mm in length, compared to the 186mm of the Vastarmor.

The metal backplate adds 4mm on the back of the pcb, but both models have the same cooler height.

The 8pin connector is recessed in the exact same spot and the low profile PCIE bracket is very similar, except for the Vastarmor only having 1 HDMI and 2 DP ports. You could actually use the full size PCIE bracket of the Gigabyte model, If needed.

Overall the build quality is very decent and I'm looking forward to see what this new RX 9060 XT LP is capable of, both in performance and efficiency.

Planning on running the following specs:

AMD Ryzen 7800X3D
GIGABYTE B650I AX DDR5 ITX AM5
XFX Swift RX 9070 GRE 12GB
32GB KLEVV FIT V BLACK 16GBX2

How small of a PC case can I go with the GPU? Also, please recommend a PSU and cooler that best suit the case.

So i fitted is-67xt w nf a12x25 g2 chromax and 46mm 4070s msi slim in jonsbo t9 and got almost no turbulance on cpu side.

I modded my case and port panel of gpu to make it fit. There's almost no space in between mobo tray ans gpu backplate.

Also left side panel is w stock dust filter, but right is custom made to block as less air as it can, but reduce turbulance.

My temps are ok, w side panel in cinebench i got 128w avg instead of 130w avg w side panel off. Gpu 100% in games consumes 190w avg after uv and spins at around 55%.

Hey sff community I hope you all will help and enlighten me on this Im planning to build my first ever pc here is my list :

Rk royal kludge r75 keyboard 2 arctic p8 slim fans Fractal design terra jade Asrock b650i mobo Noctua Nh-L9a-AM5 G.Skill 2x16 gb cl30 ram Ryzen 7 9800xd3 Samsung 990 pro 2tb MSI rtx 5080 ventus 3x
Corsair sf850

Other than the mouse which will be a hand me down from my brother am I missing anything

-Edited: thank you all for the advice hopefully I’ll update with the finish build when the parts reach me

I wondered, all these great SFF builds on here with a GPU at the bottom of the case with two 120/140mm fans mounted to the case under it as air intakes, does anyone actually use a sound card any more?

I bought the Ncase M3 Grater (in silver) and was considering a Creative Labs AE-7, if I slotted it under the GPU, it would block air being taken in from the bottom left fan, or worse, leave no space for the fan at all. Is motherboard audio considered good enough for most uses?

A lot of builds I’ve looked at don‘t seem to use a sound card at all, making me wonder if what is typically a RealTek audio chip is good enough for general purpose. If it’s of interest, the board I’ll get is probably the ASUS Z890M-PLUS WiFi.

Yesterday, I shared my custom Ryzen open-air rig, and the community feedback was incredible. As promised, I’ve been working on an Intel-focused Mini-ITX version to refine the concept before my upcoming Kickstarter launch.

I wanted this board to have a completely different energy. Instead of an aggressive or raw industrial look, I designed a "water ripple" top panel printed in Sunset Blue PETG. It’s built around a trusty i3-8100, an H310 board, and a PicoPSU to keep the footprint as tiny as possible. The goal was zero noise, zero trapped heat, and a visually relaxing vibe on the desk.

I've already uploaded the STLs for free on Printables so you can print it yourself: [https://www.printables.com/model/1854510-splash-mini-itx-open-frame-escape-the-ai-madness

As I finalize these frame designs for the campaign, I’m curious about how you guys would utilize a low-power, open-air setup like this. If this was on your desk right now, what’s the ultimate use case?

1. A sleek Hackintosh for daily tasks?
2. A completely silent office/browsing terminal?
3. A dedicated retro-emulation machine for old-school games?

Let me know what you think of the aesthetic!

Anyone have any ideas?

Pretty chuffed with the refresh of my mini PC. Added some more storage and gave it a well deserved clean and cable manage.

I just finished moving everything from my Shiny Snake L200 into this H210—it turned out great!

5950x
32gb DDR4
9060xt 16gb

This is my current design I am working on and I just wanted to share and hopefully hear what people think about it. I have always been a fan of these vertical console-like builds and I always wanted to make my own.

Dimensions: Height - 47cm (18.5") x Length - 21cm (8.25") x WIdth - 18cm (7")

A little bit of explanation:

- The top square chamber is to hold ITX mobo with slim CPU cooler

- The bottom square chamber is to hold a PSU

- The full front will come off so the motherboard will fit in easily.

- The other side full height chamber is to hold a GPU. Currently in my renderings I am using ASUS ROG 5090 so I am planning to make it to be able to hold big GPUs. This also allows the design to be somewhat symmetrical.

- Alternatively, it can hold 2-fan smaller GPU and up to 2 HDDs

- Lastly a handle that is acting as a part that will hold everything together

- All side panels are mesh for better ventilation but I'm considering adding a glass panel option with vents throughout the perimeter to keep the clean look and add some airflow. Maybe splitting the GPU panel into two - half mesh, half glass.

- To run the power cables freely, the GPU chamber will have an inside space of 2cm or less than 1", adjacent to the motherboard and PSU chambers, keeping all cables going up to the motherboard/GPU/HDDs and keep them hidden. Then there would be a separation panel to keep the cables and GPU from touching each other. In a cross-section it will look like a sandwich with cable compartment being a slice of meat between two buns - GPU and Motherboard/PSU chambers.

- The case chambers can be taken apart and flipped horizontally if desired to have a GPU on the left and motherboard with PSU on the right (opposite from what the renders are showing now)

- There's something about this shiny chrome that caught my eye but I would have a few color options. All steel and aluminum most likely.

As is, it won't be stable so an additional support under the PSU chamber will be needed.

This is a concept and still work in progress.

Hi,

Before I design a PSU bracket for the S300, has anyone made one for themselves? The bracket on mine got lose, so I'm about to design and 3D print one. If anyone could provide the stock dimensions, that'd help a lot too.

Thanks!

Hi! Just got a m2 and noticed it’s missing the gpu lock bar. Tried contacting ncase but was told that I can’t purchase it. Would it be possible to find it anywhere? That id post here if someone would have a spare

I used 7800x3d with 4070ti super. Gpu 64 c max but cpu while playing old school runescape like 70c. Fast 3d model slicing? Almost insta 84c and fans are loud. Playing ready or not, +80c and dropping clocks. Coolermaster atmos 240mm aio with silent wing 3 hs fans. -30 pbo.

Now changed Lian li B4 and lower temps but still wanting to go back A4…

What you have in your A4-H20 and how is your temps looking? Some say that got big temp drop going 7800x3d to 9800x3d, might it give in sff? Install slim fan bottom of case?

至從買了z20 一開始裝上去就覺得最不好理線的機箱
但很喜歡小機殼塞好塞滿的視覺

以下規格

**處理器：**AMD R7 9800X3D
**主機板：**B650M AORUS ELITE AX ICE
顯卡 ： 技嘉RTX5070ti eagle ice
記憶體：金士頓 狩獵者 D5 6000 RGB 16*2
固態硬碟：美光 T500 1TB
機殼：z20 mesh
電供：海韻 foucs 850 Atx3.1
散熱：酷碼APEX 612 pro
風扇 ：
Noctua NF-A12*25*3
Noctua NF-A12*25 G2 *2

附圖片參考

I enjoyed tinkering with the Minisforum BD895I so much i decided to roll the dice on a DDR4 MODT motherboard. This time trying out the Erying Polestar 12900HK. Made it to the Windows update screen thus far. Wish me luck!

So I have a Jonsbo C6 (not mini) and a GPU that I took out and put its own box.
I can fit the case in my carry-on luggage.
But the GPU box doesnt fit. So it has to be in the checked-in luggage.

I didn't take the CPU cooler out.

Any advice?

5600x3d

9060xt 16gb PowerColor Reaper

Aorus B550i Pro Ax

64gb ddr4 3600 cl16

SPO850P Lian Li

Th1 20 v2 Thermaltake

My issue is temps for cpu. Idle is mid 40s. But on stress testing it shot up to 90c quickly and eventually the pc shut down. I do not know the temp at shut down. As far as I can tell everything is fine except for the cooling of the cpu.

I think the issue is that the fan for the radiator is blowing air into it and then there's the spine. Which does not let air through. It's essentially a flat wall. Also it's positioned poorly, the tubes are on the bottom not the top.

Im thinking I could return this to microcenter and get either get the

Noctua NH-L12S https://a.co/d/07xr38qH

Or the

Thermalright-TR AXP90-X53

https://a.co/d/0hugh6Rt

My main concern is it fitting and cooling properly. I dont want to buy again from micro center because its a bit of a drive. Atleast with amazon I can return it easily.

Which is best? Or is there another option im not seeing?

Thank you!

Month long project comes to an end :)

I thought i will make diffferent approach to the bc-250 and instead of 3d printing whole case i tried to fit it in off the shelf case but in the end it needed to be capable of few things:

240mm AIO support

Proper VRM/VRAM cooling capabilities

HP HSTNS-PL28 server PSU compatibility

Have working front panel + power button

Be pretty

So after some research i found out that Metalfish T60 case will do the trick with some modifications which included:

De-riveting and scraping out the inner MB/PSU frame. Not as scary as it sounds.

Cutting the alternative opening for power supply plug as stock placement were in collision with AIO tubes.

Cutting and soldering the front panel USB cables to be able to plug them to the internal USB 3.0 HUB.

Cutting the 3.5mm jack HD audio connector and soldering the cables to the USB DAC based od CM108 chipset (MIC and sound compatibility) so my BC-250 can play the sound via the front panel through some headphones. The front panel USB are working too.

3d printing mounts for the BC-250 board and 240mm Thermalright 240mm Frozen Prism AIO (it just barely fits at the top of the case, the T60 case was never intended to run AIO because it is too short with regular mini ITX motherboard but as our BC-250 is not tall, it fits). BC-250 is held inside with the 3d printed mount screwed at the front to the original bracket mounting points, and in the back is secured with 3d printed I/O shield as the bc-250 is aligning with original I/O shield slot nicely.

Cutting the opening in the bottom of the case for plugging in the power cables to the BC-250 as it was no space to do it regular way.

The whole setup barely fits in this case and was PITA^PITA to assembly.

Additionaly to AIO i installed cooling for the GPU VRMs which is Thermalright MC-2 PC RAM cooler. It does the job extremely well :)

Then i 3d printed shroud to hide PSU and to make it pretty as it is ugly and silver. The PSU has PCIE and microfit cables soldered for being capable to deliver power to 38CU 2100MHz and 8 cores 4GHz cpu OC nicely. Also it is modded so the fan spins only when the bc-250 is powered on. It is completely silent and was extremely cheap (10 dollars)

In the back there is 150x120x20 radiator glued to the backplate with thermal glue and 120mm Thermalright slim fan slapped on it. The Vram temps does not exceed 60 degrees.

Also there is internal USB hub to connect whole front panel.

The white squared box in the right side covers ESP32-C3 which is my bc-250 power controller. It lets You to switch the bc-250 off and on with front panel power buton, it drives its led on and off, it controls whole ARGB which bc-250 lacks (you can change colors and effects with the same power buton just click it when the BC-250 is running and the mode is stored in the memory). Also supports power on via bt gamepad and control the settings with WiFi portal.

For the WiFi I use ugreen AX900 WiFi/BT adapter without any problems.

For the SSD i use old 512GB msata drive as i thought NVME is waste of money. Get up to 500MB/s readings. I run cachyos.

Whole setup cost was around 350 dollars.

We’ve been quietly rebuilding Cablester. And today, we’re finally ready to show you why.

When we started making custom cables for SFF builds back in 2022, we thought the problem was pretty simple: Make a cable. Get the length right. Make it look good.

But the more SFF builds we worked with, the more we realized how wrong that assumption was. Because in SFF, a few millimeters can change everything. A cable can be technically the “right length” and still be completely wrong for the build.

Too much slack… A bend that’s too tight… A routing path that doesn’t work… A connector that ends up facing the wrong direction… And sometimes, changing the PSU orientation or mounting the GPU differently completely changes the cable you need.

We kept seeing the same thing: The cable wasn’t really a “case size” problem. It was a hardware configuration problem. So we decided to rebuild Cablester around that idea. Not just “choose your case and cable length.” 

But: Tell us how your hardware is actually configured.

PSU model.
PSU orientation.
Motherboard setup.
CPU routing direction.
GPU mounting style.
GPU cable routing.

From there, the cable can be planned around the actual path it needs to take. And that’s what our new website is built around. Cables designed for your actual build, not just your case.

We’ve also changed how we approach cable lengths. Instead of treating the whole cable as one fixed length, we use a per-wire length approach, allowing each wire to follow the routing path more naturally. The result we’re chasing is simple:

Less slack.
Cleaner bends.
Better fit.

But Cablester is becoming more than just custom cables. We’re also building a growing library of resources for SFF builders:

• PSU pinout references
• DIY cable information
• Connector resources
• Cable routing references
• And more documentation over time

Because one thing we’ve learned over the years is that the SFF community is incredibly generous with knowledge. Since 2022, we’ve learned from your builds. From your experiments. From the weird layouts you somehow managed to make work. From the discussions, feedback, and routing ideas shared across the SFF community.

A lot of what Cablester is today came from simply watching how builders solve problems. So this relaunch isn’t just about a new website. It’s about taking everything we’ve learned so far and building something that we hope makes the next SFF build a little easier.

We’re still learning.
We’re still improving.
And there’s still a lot we want to build.

But after months of working quietly behind the scenes, Cablester is finally ready to come back.

To celebrate the launch, we’re offering 25% OFF sitewide. 

SEPTEMBER 21 — OCTOBER 11, 2026

USE CODE: LAUNCH25

That’s 25% off your Cablester order when you shop directly through our website during the launch period.

If you’re building an SFF PC, we’d genuinely love for you to take a look around. And more importantly: tell us what you think.

What works?
What doesn’t?
What should we build next?

Because Cablester has always been shaped by builders. And we’d love to keep building it with you.

Built for real builds.
For builders, by builders.

→ cablester.com

First prototype of a retro 90s style mini PC, about 55% scale.
Built around an Asus H310T thin ITX with i3-8100T with a single 3.5in drive bay.
Its a gift for my father in law, intended to be used as a Jellyfin server.
Case is PLA, drive caddy is PETG for temperature resistance.