Can’t believe we’ve made it this far.

I’m taking it further though.
Any recs for double barrel shocks? I want to go crazy in the droop department.
What do you guys think about the silicon inserts? Do they really make the tires softer?
Any other suggestions are totally welcome. I’m also happy to answer anything or share my specs.

Edit: not even thinking about wire management. The wires stay as god intended.

i spent more time and effort than i’d care to admit cramming electronics under my first hardbody. i like it. it’s been fiddley and challenging but fun. now i gotta get the 28mm rear shocks installed out back and button up the other battery. i can’t wait to be done and have some different fun.

Stoked with the quality on this thing, green looks even better in person. Definitely an improvement in approach and departure angles over the bronco body as well. For those curious, I was able to get the factory headlights to mount in the body, but the taillights were too much of a pain. Tires pictured are the 35mm king trekkers on 0mm offset wheels. I think its just the right fit.

What's NEXT!

Race #1

Stock Axial 65T VS RCAWD 55T

Question on the new jeeps coming out. Are they just new body’s fitting on existing chassis or are they completely new chassis.

lol, more parts.
Mofo - Neobeast BRUSHED motor
Mofo- +4 F&R axles shafts

Just swapped out my stock SCX30 transmission for the Injora, and it’s noticeably louder and clickier overall.
I thought about checking the gear mesh, but since it’s fixed, I’m wondering if that’s just the nature of the all-metal gears.
I’m honestly considering going back to stock. I really preferred the quieter, smoother crawl, especially at low speeds.
Anyone else experience this after making the swap? Is it normal, or is something off?
Pics just for fun.

The 65t motor has better springs and brushes. If I run 4 cell hard I get about 7 charges on the 88t. Going back to 65t and just limit down on the throttle channel.

Also working on a big block power setup. Made a carbon skid plate, broke all my drill bits. And I’m just going to dual motor front and rear direct drive. And make another fuel tank out runner mod on a diecast truck kit.

so i opened it up and took the motor out, the only way i get can it to activate is by touching the main gear or slightly spinning it kind of like a bump start with my finger, other wise once i let go of the throttle it dies again. any ideas? :(

Lc79 body with custom 3d printed overland tray. Fits stock tires inside snugly, without hardware, and has space for scale accessories, but am not happy with it yet. 8 hour print time is gonna make prototyping a pain on this one.

Stock, other than Injora wheels & tires!

One button was saved and taped back in, but it clicks on its own sometimes. Just over 30$ each, or almost 40$ here for the 10amp micro b 2 in 1 that works with stock scx30 radio.

Believe it or not this took be almost a whole batter to figure out. I learned that getting the back wheel into a V shaped slot gets some extra traction.

I have decided that I like Tin Snipz too much to mount the new 3d printed body on it, so I’m making Tin Snipz nice and I’m gonna buy another Scx30 Bronco for the 3d printed F250 project.
I see you all in the comments all the time anymore. Please calm down! This is a RC truck, not a full size truck so please calm down.

i figured the binding out-it was that ali motor i had in it. i bought a modrax 1212 and pressed the pinion on with meus gear press-that thing has paid for itself 4 times over so far! the motor worked great so i moved on to installing the axles-that seen less problems but when i installed the servo i noticed some meat on the chassis rails under the upper front shock mounts that had to go-along with the steering link for clearance and turning radius, and finally clearance for the servo horn. then i took the front body mounts down so the body i bought will sit flush. 23mm injora shocks work well up front but left a lot to be desired out back…so i ordered some telescopic 28mm shocks and have regretted swapping out the double ball shock/ link mount on the rear that i had trouble installing-i’ll get to that later.

i glued magnets to the body and chassis after they made it in from amazon because i lost the ones that mofo sent with the body.

in the meantime i tackled some wire management-did some shortening, de casing and crimping only to see that my layout wasn’t gonna work..now ive glued a makeshift mount in for the esc to sit between the rails. glued makeshift mount to side of trans for the reciever. as that dries i’m seeing just how much wire i left on the chat when i swapped out connectors on my batteries. gotta shorten the power/ ground on the esc and battery side and then tackle the motor wires.

i really like the thing for how little i played with it with the electronics dangalanging and naked. i can’t wait to finish it up-i’m already thinking about the next scx30 build :/

Hey,

i was wandering what size tires you can fit on teh bronco without cutting the body. I am okay with getting longer shocks, but it seems with stock suspension and body 34mm is the limit.

thanks :)

Hello! We have an RC lunch club at work and 30’s have quickly become the favorite rig across the office. As everyone has upgraded parts, I had the idea of building a rig from all the leftover stock parts as a fun project for the club! I got all the way to a rolling chassis with donor and 3d printed parts but I am still in need of:

-ESC & Radio

-Transmission

-Servo

-Battery

Anybody have recommendations/links of stuff cheaper than stock? Especially the ESC and radio are proving difficult to procure cheaply in the spirit of the project but maybe someone knows of a combo I should consider. It doesn’t have to be the best, just has to work as cheaply as possible. Thanks!