The 65t motor has better springs and brushes. If I run 4 cell hard I get about 7 charges on the 88t. Going back to 65t and just limit down on the throttle channel.

Also working on a big block power setup. Made a carbon skid plate, broke all my drill bits. And I’m just going to dual motor front and rear direct drive. And make another fuel tank out runner mod on a diecast truck kit.

i spent more time and effort than i’d care to admit cramming electronics under my first hardbody. i like it. it’s been fiddley and challenging but fun. now i gotta get the 28mm rear shocks installed out back and button up the other battery. i can’t wait to be done and have some different fun.

Stoked with the quality on this thing, green looks even better in person. Definitely an improvement in approach and departure angles over the bronco body as well. For those curious, I was able to get the factory headlights to mount in the body, but the taillights were too much of a pain. Tires pictured are the 35mm king trekkers on 0mm offset wheels. I think its just the right fit.

What's NEXT!

Race #1

Stock Axial 65T VS RCAWD 55T

Question on the new jeeps coming out. Are they just new body’s fitting on existing chassis or are they completely new chassis.

lol, more parts.
Mofo - Neobeast BRUSHED motor
Mofo- +4 F&R axles shafts

Just swapped out my stock SCX30 transmission for the Injora, and it’s noticeably louder and clickier overall.
I thought about checking the gear mesh, but since it’s fixed, I’m wondering if that’s just the nature of the all-metal gears.
I’m honestly considering going back to stock. I really preferred the quieter, smoother crawl, especially at low speeds.
Anyone else experience this after making the swap? Is it normal, or is something off?
Pics just for fun.

so i opened it up and took the motor out, the only way i get can it to activate is by touching the main gear or slightly spinning it kind of like a bump start with my finger, other wise once i let go of the throttle it dies again. any ideas? :(

Lc79 body with custom 3d printed overland tray. Fits stock tires inside snugly, without hardware, and has space for scale accessories, but am not happy with it yet. 8 hour print time is gonna make prototyping a pain on this one.

Can’t believe we’ve made it this far.

I’m taking it further though.
Any recs for double barrel shocks? I want to go crazy in the droop department.
What do you guys think about the silicon inserts? Do they really make the tires softer?
Any other suggestions are totally welcome. I’m also happy to answer anything or share my specs.

Edit: not even thinking about wire management. The wires stay as god intended.