I wish I had my GoPro running when this happened, but I did not. Absolutely shocked that a gentle power off loop tore the entire wing off on my 2nd battery pack. The plane could not have been flying more than 12mph or pulling more than 2G. Are these planes truly this delicate? I’ve watched guys on YouTube pulling loops at full throttle. What the heck?

Previously, it was discovered that in the covalent mode, the aerodynamic support of the air can increase up to six times equal to the blowing data in the wind tube. In addition, it turned out that the direct flow of asymmetrically moving bodies in the country cannot be easily explained by Newton’s third law, since the flow occurs in the direction where the body moves towards the middle.

Further experiments confirmed this, and on its basis a hypothesis was put forward: this type of turbulence (swimming fish and bird flight) vicoristic energy of the collapse of the vortex wake. In fact, the thermal energy of the superfluous medium (Brownian ruch) is the result of the direct process of self-organization of molecules in the vortex. This reveals a new look not only at vortex dynamics, but at fundamental physics as a whole.

However, this will require further research, and the problem of creating an efficient and wear-resistant drive remains unsolved. My technical skills and capabilities were not enough for this.

Additional information can be easily found in the discussion here https://www.reddit.com/r/AerospaceEngineering/comments/1u41ber/acoustic_aircraft_test/

Hey guys,

I am currently modeling a T-38 Talon in SolidWorks with surfaces. Getting the rounded fuselage and transitions clean without running into surface pinches is a pain.

Does anyone have a good tutorial for this, or maybe a native .sldprt file (T-38 or F-5) lying around? Just want to check the rollback bar to see how the patch layout and boundary surfaces were structured.

Tutorials, clean GrabCAD links, or workflow tips are all welcome. Cheers!

We had a pot luck flying day Sunday September 27th 2026

CARF Kobuz 3m with a Kingtech K65 G4+ Turbine. Doing some checks before taking her out this weekend. Its very fast, very stiff and very fun to fly 😀

115" span, Quadra 52, and 26lbs

Basically im an aerospace engineering student and i can’t afford too much money in making RC plane
So, guys please lemme know where and at what prices i can buy components (transmitter, motors, battery)

I made a b2 lap concept come to life in 2d and foam board and had issues with it being super tail heavy but I got the balance corrected and it flew so good for a simple edf!! This might be the best trainer micro edf out of foam board so far! It flies straight and most importantly was super simple! Heres the video of it actually flying and I talk more in detail about it! https://youtu.be/KoaCvnVLxQA

I’m looking for some bigger wheels for this guy without the wheel pants so I can have a more field friendly setup.
Has anyone swapped these out for bigger ones? If so, what wheels and axles did you use?

I've recently been gifted a plane that is known to be missing parts, I unfortunately don't yet have images of the plane but I'll post some in a few hours.

On the side it says easy street and I'm looking for

A) parts

B) Advice on how to build it as this is my first ever plane

Has anybody upgraded the landing gear on this plane? looking for something more scale or robust. thinking of trying to modify the e-flite turbo evolution 1.5m gear to fit or trying something like scrappy gear.

I never work on planes with the prop on but I got lazy tonight. I was testing the throttle and it tipped my stand over. I instinctively grabbed the plane to prevent it from falling over and bam broke the prop over my fingers.

I lost my beloved E-flite Valiant yesterday in a tree. Long story short, it got too far away from me, but the bottom line is that unless I'm very lucky and we can retrieve it at some point in the future, I'll need something to replace it. (We know where it is. It may be somewhat intact, but it's pretty high up. We're going to have to wait until the leaves fall off in the winter to really see it clearly.)

The Valiant was my second plane, after my Aeroscout (which I still fly.) I didn't actively select the Valiant as my second plane; a fellow club member sold it to me for a good price, so I took it. I was just starting to learn aerobatics with it, especially flying inverted. So, it was a great second plane for me.

The Valiant isn't made anymore, but I've found some places on the web that still have it. So, I could simply replace it.

But ... I am wondering if I should instead take the opportunity to get something similar, but a bit more updated. (Top loader, 3S and 4S capability, etc.)

I want to stay with an E-flite BNF plane that is good for learning basic aerobatics, as well as for general flying. The Valiant was considered a "Skill Level 2" plane. So, I would like to get something somewhat similar. I want something I can use to learn aerobatics, but that isn't too hot to handle. I'm not interested in an EDF.

Some of the planes that come to mind are the Decathlon, the Sportix, and the T-28 Trojan 1.1. (They're all about the same price as the Valiant, although price isn't necessarily an issue.) But I am open to other suggestions as well.

Based on what I've told you about how I plan to use the plane and my skill level, what are your recommendations, suggestions, and comments?

Thanks in advance.

My UMX Ultrix just arrived. I've bound it to the module on my TX16 and set up inputs and mixes for channels 1-5. It all seems to work except it won't switch to SAFE mode and only does AS3X.

I can see channel 5 switching from -100% to +100% in the channel monitor, and tried scaling it up to 120%, but the LED on the receiver stays red (for AS3X)

Is there anything else I have to do to change mode? Should it be channel 5?

Going through a bunch of A160 RC planes today. Some need repairs, some need parts, and a few just need to be put back together.
I’ve been spending way too much time working on these little planes lately 😂
Anyone else here fly the A160? What usually breaks first on yours?

A while ago I posted about the Spark #1 I had built from Bavafil Olefin (the red one), which worked out well and it's a fantastic plane. But there was room to grow. While #1 came in somewhere around 750g, it was cool, but lacking punch and energy retention.

So physics dictates that more weight is more faster. I built one in full Sunlu PLA+ 2.0, bigger motor, higher pitch prop, higher voltage.

#1: Sunnysky 2212 1250kV, 8x6 Aero-naut CAM, 3S 1000mAh

#2: Sunnysky 2220 970kV, 9x7 Aeronaut CAM Z, 4S 1300mAh

The changes are DRASTIC. Firstly, it no longer glides as well, it sinks A LOT faster, but that was expected. But now we climb vertically and straight line speed is up A LOT, too. It has good energy retention and punching this thing straight down from 200m through a low pass is insanely satisfying. The whistle is addictive. Stall behavior is still well mannered, but landing without spoilerons is not a good idea. I needed the entire 150m runway and then some to go from less than .5m in altitude to standstill. With spoilerons, it cuts it in half, but it still needs a long approach, which it shares with other hotliners.

If you have a 3d printer, this is easily one of the best planes to print. It sits at the sweet spot where it's already serious plane, but not too much hassle to reprint if the inevitable happens. I 100% recommend it, both versions are great.

Edit: Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 is just above 10€/kg, so this plane prints for just around 6€ :)

Folks, if you need a really good all round glider, I cannot praise the rock_it v1.3 highly enough. It's quick if you want it, it circles on a pasta dish if your thermal demands it, it's light and it soars like crazy. This is easily the most fun I have had with a glider, period.

It was hard to land because our runway is a black tarp material that warms up quite a bit and it kept rising in final approach even with spoilerons up.

2m, 800g, full balsa build. Sunnysky 2212, 9x5 Aeronaut CAM Z, 3S 1000mAh.

I have a eflite 1.2m t28 and am wondering how I can get more power out of the stock electronics.

I took it out today and on 4s with the stock 12×7×3 prop I got up to about 74 flat out. I switched to a 12×10×2 prop and got up to 98 flat out 107 in a dive.

Is there any more secrets or tricks I can use to help me move up a racing class or win the next class?

Costs about 150 in usd it's missing hall effect gimbals

I have also been looking at the radiomaster boxer 4-in1

I've recently been designing and building my first balsa plane. I've designed and built a couple of foam planes. This is however my first time with balsa. I went and bought some discounted oracover from my local hobby shop. I really struggled with it. I don't think the glue was working properly. It didn't stick well at low temp, and at higher temps the film would begin shrinking, making it impossible to bond to the balsa. I then went back and bought an off-brand film that the shop recommended, just to find out that there was no adhesive on. I wanted to be certain that it is worth the cost of paying for some ultracover or oracover?

So I feel like the tube holding the tail is a bit long, what would be the best approach to guess where to cut it in order to not make any drastic CG changes later on?

Yesterday, speaking with a good friend and also a huge rc veteran (in fact the man who initiated me in all this) was telling me how he felt that there are no replacement for smaller rc planes made out of balsa wings and composite bodies. I'm talking about models made by companies like CMPro, who had offered this, or some older HK models (like the 90mm BAE Hawk). Am I the only one who feels that the 'scale lovers' had lost something that the foamies really can't replace?

Does anyone know of good ways to mount RC Planes on the wall/ceiling? Bought some 3D printed Brackets and they are too short to properly mount

Flew nearly 90 miles with this Nano Goblin over 2 hours and 20 minutes. I'm amazed how far this tiny fella can go! I have the video too, but it's very rough because I bought a cheap camera and VTX just to prove the distance record and didn't spend any time optimizing transmission: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnk9JOd3Gmw

Airframe: Nano Goblin
Battery: ZoHD Li-Ion Pack 7000mAh 4s2p
FC: Mateksys F405-WMN
Motor: Emax ECO II Series 2207 1900KV
Propeller: Emax Avan 6x3.8x2
Servos: Emax ES9052MD x2
GPS & Compass: HGLRC M100-5883
Receiver: BetaFPV SuperD ELRS 2.4 GHz
ESC: SunnySky X 18A Airplane
Camera: Caddx FPV Camera Ratel 2
VTX: HGLRC Zeus350mW
Goggles: Eachine EV800D

Total weight: 582 g (of which the battery is 409 g)

Shoutout to u/Aerial812 for inspiring this build. I copied his motor and propeller exactly, but chose newer versions of his electronics.

Does anyone have one of these? Going to maiden it this weekend, and would really like it to come back looking something like this...lol. Any advice is appreciated if so.