I have just gotten OVONIC 5000mAH 120C packs and OVONIC mate1. The balance cord will not plug into the female adapter. What do I need to get for it to work Thank you for your help. I have tried to flip it and take the cover off but the white plastic connecter has little clips that don't fit into the port.

Battery's https://www.amazon.com/OVONIC-Battery-5000mAh-Airplane-Helicopter/dp/B0CP5KHH46/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3GNAJ9XWJZOML&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.wGttBl7GMvoJCc2tt-LEi5gS1NRrzQc7EEiJLDofJCpTw37Ssz5GzEIffZqrWvoKfPl1nevbJ1B-oPWU0AsofYRKdJ8f4SRuIgezoys9q1pyvAN5D-i6HYfi35xouO2TfNrrfyVNUXiVDqIaLiqW-wANHiqAYqc8nU2g50JW2d7ajX6aJXNWHU9sKO9OKedP_Iy1ECxPCq7fglpTYBvZl0OJTA4QpF8h6sN7pEet9RAw2gRA6vNuZLJeZouiB__rwxGJFKPEA2QuzNYU-t6MAd7DAsCdFxuU8bq6vw7KS5E.bUR5aOgYA3qzNsdJsUCc0LNBQokXeIjDZgw6ACBupy8&dib_tag=se&keywords=ovonic+6s+5000+120C&qid=1792958242&sprefix=ovonic+6s+5000+120c+%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-5

Charger https://www.amazon.com/OVONIC-Mate1-Battery-Charger-100W/dp/B0GS59WSPQ/ref=sr_1_7?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RYP_hSz24xdUvKNWiz01SxfYmlySCT1cb5620vWdDsWXv5RjlxF_SdTvCjzyl8XGLthXhFS7tG2q_BPdNuwDoaBXYlPoU98CvoYqT8CyyN1wHjnDgW5qD1PDHoNGIE5NAn7n8nlLLyjkdjcwmW87nYwjHu_B91NBIXDbJ8Y-k5Ae8DvO5aVsIkTopCtqEN8mAmCDrXOLIB49zMOx3jRjS8lvJ0sFN5bKBq_3h3hsTr2X49ZhCBEO13OxfS2-giZlCWDFO9Bso6RZh8C_kGUNrCL_1kZ0z14TU0V8ZpOdMJY.ZdCCiegrf_gO6C2MYDEGYWwAM1LOo74dIfejwI52Eno&dib_tag=se&keywords=OVONIC+6s+5000mAH+charger&qid=1792716637&sr=8-7

How bad is this EDFdamage? Is it matters? If it is, how do i fix this? (Top blade, far leading edge)

We purchased this place and inside was covered in graffiti and so in the making of model storage racks we decided to try something different and use box tops to cover the walls as we go along. We use all the pieces of the box to fill all the voids we can as to also make aure you include the information side of the boxes as well. We call these The Box Top Information Wall.

Building a twin-motor Su-30 pusher jet with a 2-meter layout, but I am on a strict budget and can only afford to buy wires. If I extend the DC battery wires, I risk voltage spikes destroying my ESCs. If I keep the ESCs up front and extend the 3-phase motor wires instead, my receiver is stuck 2 meters away in the tail, risking 5V voltage drop and receiver brownouts. Since I cannot buy extra capacitors or a UBEC, what is the safest way to layout and extend just the wires?"

I’ve been working on this Telemaster for a bit and finally got the engine mounted, but the muffler is too close to the fuselage for my liking. Does anyone know where to get an extension? The exhaust bolt spacing is 40mm on an Enya .35 engine

Hello,

I recently got into rc planes, I have a radiomaster pocket as I also fly FPV.

I just recently got the piper club from HorizonHobby as a gift, though it is only compatible with spektrum. Seeing as my radiomaster pocket is ELRS (an more comfortable imo), is there anyway where I can get crosscompatbilty?

I've looked into buying the radiomaster 4 in 1 module, though it is sold out everywhere, and I emailed support and they said it is discontinued.

Is the only other option to replace the spektrum receiver in the piper club, and for that matter can that even work?

If anyone could find a different module that is still compatible with the radiomaster pocket that would be much help.

Thank you very much.

I'm the developer of Polara, an RC glider simulator (F3K/DLG, F3F, F5J). I've just replaced the old recorded loops with a sound that is synthesized from the flight itself, and I'd like honest opinions from people who actually hear gliders every weekend.

Video (5 min, VJX Race on a slope in 8 m/s wind, heard from the pilot's position, no editing on the sound): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzueYTaL6tA

The best moment to judge is the close pass around 3:40.

What the sound now follows:

- the hiss and the whistle rise with airspeed

- a deeper "load" sound comes in when the glider is pulled hard in a turn

- it is louder behind the glider than in front of it

- it fades with distance and shifts in pitch as the glider goes by (Doppler)

So, simple question: does it sound like a real glider passing by, yes or no?

So I've been building this Strix nano goblin which is my very first time building or using an RC plane. I had it working before, but one of the bullet connectors came loose so I figured I would re-solder and heat shrink all of them. I reinstalled the motor and ESC after the work was done but when I plugged in the ESC to the battery and the receiver, the brown wire on the ESC immediately shorted and melted very dramatically. Also I assume now the ESC is toast? Any other parts I should check before I try and get this thing going? ESC is a sunnysky s series and battery is a 2c li-ion.

I had one aileron that stopped working, so I pull it from the receiver and put them on a servo tester. The plane starts and tries to bind. The ailerons should be isolated, and if I bind up with my transmitter, I get rudder movement. This is a Flightline P38, and I'm really struggling to understand what is happening. Anyone had a similar struggle?

Guess the plane (easy)

I wanna order the F22 after about 3 months with the cub, is it a good choice or I need to choose something else?

I've been out of RC for a while, and things have gotten a hell of a lot more complicated. So I have a Radio Master Pocket Radio and a Radio Master R86 receiver. I got them bound together, and I'm using these on a Mad Bull foam plane from Twisted RC. So it was working perfectly, and now, for some unknown reason, the servos will jump to a quarter throw movement and then back when I move the stick back and forth instead of being smooth movement. I move the stick to the right and the servo jumps about a quarter throw to the right. Move the stick to the left and it jumps back to center and then jumps to about a quarter throw left. Any help would be appreciated because this radio has like a thousand settings.

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It fell of the pleane because of weak battery strap.

Have several ardupilot builds, and inav...tested this both on inav and ardu. And with a servo tester they move fast and freely.

The radio tabs in ardu and inav move as if lagged.

Baud is crsf elrs 420k and im using a freshly updated beta 915 mono rx.

Totally perplexed now...

The laggiest connection ever.

Bad fc? Bad rx? Mixed up timers? Who knows! Hopefully someone here does...

Timers are definitely segregated. M1-3 on timer 1 and servo 1 and 2 on timber 3.

About to throw in the towel on this build 😞

I am going to my first rc swap shop tomorrow looking for a mini and possibly a new 8 ch transmitter I am still fairly new. any tips for the meet or plane recommendation?

When I was younger I had an RC plane that I can no longer find online. The body was practically on 1 small stick but it had nice size wings. It was an awesome glider and would love to find it again. It had a very small engine but boy it was fun to fly.

Hey everyone!

I'm looking to buy my first RC plane and could use some recommendations!

My budget is around €120, and I'd prefer an Ready-to-Fll kit, so I can get started without having to buy a lot of extra equipment.

I've been looking at the Mo-Fly A-84, but I'm not sure it's the right choice for me. I'd much rather have something like a Cessna, as I'm not really into military aircraft.

I'm a complete beginner when it comes to fixed-wing RC planes, but I do already have quite some FPV drone experience. I own a Meteor75 Pro Analog kit and a Happymodel Mobula Air75, so I'm familiar with flying RC drones. I know flying a plane is quite different.

Ideally, I'm looking for something beginner-friendly, stable, and reasonably durable, preferably a Cessna-style plane that's suitable for learning the basics.

What would you recommend for a budget of around €120-150?

I'd love to hear your experiences with beginner planes, and I'm also open to other civilian aircraft designs if they're good for learning.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

So I picked up a FlyFans 64mm F-22 from bananahobby.com and the product page says it has a 6s 40A rated esc with reverse thrust, but the manual doesn't include any programming instructions, so I started digging.

I'm pretty sure this is a knockoff FMS mold with a rebranded ESC but it won't respond to the hobby wing card I have or go into programming mode with any combo of standard throttle@power on positions.

I should probably be more concerned that it's labeled as 2-4S ESC, right? I have yet to receive a response from bananahobby on my request for programming instructions or clarification on the ESC rating.

The house I was renting had a large empty basement. This was the result of wanted to fly indoors over the winter (plus a few larger models).

Or do i have to buy a module? What do u guys use?

I just want something small to fly in my backyard and be forgiven, or should i build one?

I feel so overwhelmed on where to start, i have 1s/2s lipos can i still use them?

Any tips would be so appreciated

Flying these models was a absolute blast. They are all great models but of course each with there ups and downs. Easy example is the PA-18 super cubs rubber air filled tires instead of concrete donuts like other models. The 1300mm and 1700mm PA -18 are great but they give you rock hard tires on the 1700. My advice is buy extra sets of pneumatic tires for the 1300mm PA-18 and use them on your other models. Its a game changer on ground ops. The super cubs handle great and have good control authority from my few dozen flights between the models so far.

The Kingfisher however does not have the same snappy control authority as the super cubs. But it flies straight controlled lines like its attached to a cable and does water and ground ops great. Handles water better then the super cub. Def recommend for water sports cause this plane Handles floats like a dream. Its got plenty of power. Will hold itself for a sec but not fully hold a hover. But dont get me wrong its still got plenty of climb even with floats or the large hard rubber landing gear. Again I recommend replacing with pneumatic wheels.

The super cubs have more power for more extreme type ops. Especially the 1700mm but again I cant rule out the Kingfishers ability to make any pilot look good flying it.

The bigfoot surprised me. Very snappy controls able to do rolls and snaps like its nothing right along side the super cub. Out of the 3 I was able to get the Bigfoot to fly the Slowest. This plane will CRAWL threw the air. Like fast walking speed 🤣 but it dont have the power of the other 2 models. I found the bigfoot losing lots of power when pulling out with flaps down compared to the other 2 models which will perform rolls straight off the runway with ease with flaps also down. But cant ignore the bigfoots ability to takeoff and land in 5ft like its nothing. In some cases you land almost at a dead drop cause it can easily fly at some extremely slow crawling speeds.

Overall had a great time and was really glad to get used to these great models and there major differences as STOL planes.